From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 01:15:19 1998
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To: <CWWSLW@aol.com>, "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: side lights
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 98 01:06:06 -0400
Message-ID: <199807010509.BAA24591@uz.ComCAT.COM>
Precedence: bulk

>Okay Yall,
> I have been asked to do a couple of side lights. The size is 9" x 68". She
>just wants a simple design, but lots of colors. I figure this is 4.25 sq,
>feet. I'd  planned on charging $45. a sq. ft. (That's $191.00 for each one).
>Is that too high?
>
> Also, I'm thinking I can't get too much design in such a narrow panel. I'm
>open for suggestions. I'll do them in copperfoil. I guess I should use
>reinforcement?

Hi Susan,

I think $45/sq. ft. is too low. How about $50/sq. ft. plus $1.50 per 
piece. That price is still quite reasonable.
Yes, you should use reinforcement, so design it so a piece of restrip can 
wind all the way from top to bottom, and I'd put zinc around the whole 
thing for sure, probably 3/8". Hopefully on installation you could cover 
the zinc with some molding.

Or - you could make it in three different sections if your design allows 
and join the sections together between two horizontal pieces of H-zinc, 
spaced a third of the way down for each section and have them solder 
right to the zinc surrounding the piece. That would strengthen it quite a 
bit.

Be careful transporting it!

Suzanne
 
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 02:06:56 1998
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From: "B. S. Jones" <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
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Subject: removing silvering from mirrors
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:36:02 +0100
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One of the methods that I have used in the past is the chemical Ferric
Chloride. This was on the surfaces of telescope mirrors that I have
made. This is usually used in the making of printed circuit boards for
the electronics industry. It can be bought  from hobbyist electronics
stores as a yellow powder that you dissolve in water. Again you have to
strip off any covering over the aluminium depsited on the glass but it
etches surfaces off very fast. It is quite safe, in the uk they add it
to the water supply here to make the water sparkle.

Brandon S. Jones
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 05:05:11 1998
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From: "Vic LaGreca" <vlg@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: side lights/price fixing
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 06:27:27 -0400
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Although my re is meant tongue in cheek, it is interesting to me how openly
pricing is discussed here and at other sites on the net.

My profession is one where the slightest reference to specific pricing,
amongst proteges, can cost you your license and perhaps some "time".

At what point does "suggestions" become collusion and/or conspiracy?

Ciao

Vic

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 07:07:58 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: side lights/price fixing
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:43:11 +0000
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> At what point does "suggestions" become collusion and/or 
conspiracy?

When enough money or customers are involved. So far, the art glass 
world isn't large enough for that to pertain, alas, since there are 
studio practitioners who should be in jail for what they do to 
windows and clients.

At this point, the stained glass world isn't even as large as the home 
repair industry, which is now monitored and licensed by most states. 
The glass world is a mere mote in the eye, an iota of information, an 
atom of concern to legislators and law enforcement, so studios can 
pretty much get away with whatever they want to do. Collusion exists, 
as does conspiracy, but on such a small scale as to make no 
nevermind. When clients sue studios and practitioners who *should be 
sued (put out of business, by my way of thinking), usually those 
individuals and studios are savvy enough to have a lawyer in hand who 
makes sure that a nondisclosure clause goes into any settlement 
agreement, so neither the client nor the person or company that's 
been sued is allowed to talk about it. That way, the client's 
satisfied, has been refunded at least part of what they paid for 
shoddy workmanship or damage to their windows, but they can never 
comment on the fact that they were unhappy with the work nor that the 
work was second-rate (third-rate), that they sued and settled ... 
nothing. That way the perps can just go right on doing their damage.

When the glass world grows to be as large as roofers, driveway 
pavers, landscape maintenance companies, etc., then it'll be big 
enough to warrent the attention of licensing agencies and legal 
departments of states and municipalities.

But nobody on bungi is really colluding or conspiring; they're merely 
trading information about pricing. If all the stained glass shops in 
a single city or state got together and said, okay, we're all going 
to charge $500/square foot for our work, thus forcing clients to pay 
that, they would be colluding and conspiring. For them to merely say, 
you should charge enough to make a profit and stay in business, all 
they're passing along is sound business advice. A company has to make 
a profit or it'll die. If it dies, it can no longer provide the 
after-sale support that any business should, nor can it continue to 
support those who operate it, nor its employees.

Since the so-called industry is so small, however, even if all the 
art glass shops in a single state got together to collude on a 
$500/square foot price, all that would happen is they'd all go out of 
business together, since glass is a luxury, not a necessity, and 
clients would merely not buy any. <s>

My 2c worth.

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 07:36:03 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
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Subject: Bio #30  Shakeel Abedi
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 06:17:25 -0700 (PDT)
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Dear Shakeel,
Great bio!
Really had a very nice chuckle on the copper foil learning, I could see you
now (back then!) trying to figure things out:) Good for you!
Mike's site is fabulous, great for learning.
God Bless and Happy Cutting!
Smiles, Cindy




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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 08:34:39 1998
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Subject: re: lead hazards
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:56:19 EDT
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I do have to input a little, as I am now 10 weeks pregnant.  Our business is a
family one, so my mother did stained glass all through her pregnancies with
myself and my younger sister.  The key is being very careful.  Certainly, if
you are a hobbyist, I recommend using lead free solder, but in a business that
is not always possible.  I have my lead levels checked every month, as she
did.  (Still registering VERY low). My doctor says as long as we keep
monitoring, it shouldn't be a problem.  I use rubber gloves on all work that I
am doing anywhere near lead or chemicals while I am pregnant, and I have
installed a heavy duty air filter in my workroom which removes all of the
fumes.

Yes, it is a safety hazard worth strong consideration, and yes, if you are a
hobbyist and your livelihood doesn't depend on it by all means switch to lead
free solder.  But, with proper and careful monitoring of your blood lead
levels and safe and practical use of the lead, you don't have to close your
business for nine months when you get pregnant.

Just my two cents.

Jenna Meredith-Sanders
Meredith Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 09:02:24 1998
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From: Nadine Beth Schneider <nadinesfolly@erols.com>
To: Albert Lewis <alewis@vgernet.net>
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Subject: Re: side lights/price fixing
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 10:45:00 -0400
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Hi Albert!

I thought your answer was very well put and right on.   I heartily
agree!
                                                   Nadine

> > At what point does "suggestions" become collusion and/or
> conspiracy?
>
> When enough money or customers are involved. So far, the art glass



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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 09:37:36 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: side lights
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 11:18:57 -0400
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Message text written by INTERNET:CWWSLW@aol.com
>Okay Yall,
 I have been asked to do a couple of side lights. The size is 9" x 68". S=
he
just wants a simple design, but lots of colors. I figure this is 4.25 sq,=

feet. I'd  planned on charging $45. a sq. ft. (That's $191.00 for each
one).
Is that too high?>

Nope.  Not too much.  In fact, I would charge more.

< Also, I'm thinking I can't get too much design in such a narrow panel.
I'm
open for suggestions. I'll do them in copperfoil. I guess I should use
reinforcement?>

You can do quite a bit of fun design in that narrow a space.
Don't think in just straight horizontal & straight vertical lines.
Try diagonal lines.  Mix in jewels & nuggets.  Mix in some
interesting curved lines.  Now play with the colors.  I did a
restoration of a couple of old church windows (very narrow like
a sidelight) that had mixed-up diagonal lines combined with
faceted jewels, all with a beautiful mix of bright colors.  The
faceted jewels were aqua, pink, gold, royal blue, red.  It's
lovely.

As to reinforcement...absolutely necessary!  Use Strong-Line
(copper-clad stainless steel) or Re-Strip.  Run it horizontally
in quite a few places.  You must also frame the sidelight in
some sort of metal border, such as zinc.

Have fun!
Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 13:03:54 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re: lead hazards
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Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:42:26 +0000
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> Yes, it is a safety hazard worth strong consideration, and yes, if you are a
> hobbyist and your livelihood doesn't depend on it by all means switch to lead
> free solder.  But, with proper and careful monitoring of your blood lead
> levels and safe and practical use of the lead, you don't have to close your
> business for nine months when you get pregnant.

Thanks for your nice, calm input, Jenna. Personally, I think you're 
right, that care and constant monitoring are called for.  It's 
surprising, though, the number of people in the stained glass world 
who still deny that lead is a problem at all. 

I remember years ago, when I first started making mention of lead 
hazards and steps one could take regarding safety and monitoring, I 
got calls from manufacturers and old-line studios excoriating me for 
mentioning it at all. <sigh> They just wanted to sell product and the 
customers could just look out for themselves.  Even the venerable 
Stained Glass Association for a long time denied there was any 
problem, chewed out one of their studio members for testifying to 
Congress about lead in stained glass studios, even though all he was 
doing was saying what steps his studio had taken to make sure its 
employees were faced with a little hazard as possible. Oh, well.  Now 
the SGAA is fully on the bandwagon with regard to lead safety 
precautions, which is certainly an improvement.

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 16:57:17 1998
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From: "Northernlights (Tracy Reitmann)" <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: CWWSLW@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: side lights
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 14:51:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul1.95151.0>
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> <She just wants a simple design, but lots of colors. ... Also, I'm thinking I
> can't get too much design in such a narrow panel. I'm open for suggestions.>
> I don't know what style house she has, but have you looked at some of the
> designs Frank Lloyd Wright did???  I think in some cases he used quite a bit
> of color and managed to get quite a bit of design in a small space.  Another
> thing you might want to think of is whatever design you use, maybe you could
> make it continue from one sidelight to the other....the door breaking up the
> pattern but it continues on the other side.  Just a thought.



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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 17:14:56 1998
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Subject: Varying glass thickness
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:05:33 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul1.20533.0>
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Hi All:
I am making 2 windows, 16"X22", each with roughly 120 foiled pieces, in a
Tiffany style landscape. I have used a number of types of glass which range in
thickness from roughly 7/64" to 10/64".  If I now solder these pieces together
while they rest on a flat base, the various thicknesses will be visible.  Is
this a problem, and if so, does anyone have an idea how to rectify it?  Or is
it better not to create this problem in the first place?  Thanks.

Ken (Mike) Mikolajczak
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 19:44:12 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <Klmxklm@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Varying glass thickness
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:16:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul1.11168.0>
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Use the differences in thickness to add a bit of dimension to the
window.....even tip some up a bit more to effect a shadow. Bring another
piece over the lower one (modified plating) in places.

USE care when flipping it, as it will not lie flat on the other side.

enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 20:05:35 1998
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To: Klmxklm@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Varying glass thickness
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 21:14:15 -0400
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Klmxklm@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi All:
> I am making 2 windows, 16"X22", each with roughly 120 foiled pieces, in a
> Tiffany style landscape. I have used a number of types of glass which range in
> thickness from roughly 7/64" to 10/64".  If I now solder these pieces together
> while they rest on a flat base, the various thicknesses will be visible.  Is
> this a problem, and if so, does anyone have an idea how to rectify it?  Or is
> it better not to create this problem in the first place?  Thanks.
> 
> Ken (Mike) Mikolajczak
> ----
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are you by any chance a machist?  i never heard anyone descibe glass
down to the 64th... :)  the glass thickness is'nt a problem. solder
helps keep everything level looking. just imagine the varying
thicknesses in drapery glass... if it were came, it may be a little more
difficult...

---Mike Savad

-- 
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6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 20:19:42 1998
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Subject: Re: Varying glass thickness
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 21:23:27 -0400
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If you put the front side down and solder the back first, then no one will know
that you have different sizes of glass (unless they sneak in and look behind
somehow, etc.  (and they're probably looking in your medicine chest, too!)  Then
again, the unevenness could make the piece more interesting.  Lay it out and look
at it closely.  Only you can decide!  I'd much rather use the right color and
texture than worry about the thickness.

Dorothy K

Klmxklm@aol.com wrote:

> Hi All:
> I am making 2 windows, 16"X22", each with roughly 120 foiled pieces, in a
> Tiffany style landscape. I have used a number of types of glass which range in
> thickness from roughly 7/64" to 10/64".  If I now solder these pieces together
> while they rest on a flat base, the various thicknesses will be visible.  Is
> this a problem, and if so, does anyone have an idea how to rectify it?  Or is
> it better not to create this problem in the first place?  Thanks.
>
> Ken (Mike) Mikolajczak
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Wed Jul  1 20:54:07 1998
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From: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: My poppy is up.
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 21:51:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul1.175111.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,
	I finally have a picture of the poppy up on my page.  This was
the one from SGN that many of you gave me advice about framing and
hanging, and then there was the dreaded Restrip (I won't even go into
that.).....  I don't have the specifics up on the page, but it measures
15"w  x 17 1/2"h.  I fused the center piece using clear stringer and
black and brown frit on clear glass.  I also fused the background pieces
using frit, confetti, and stringer.

	If you want to see it:

	www.mindspring.com/~roey

	It's on the "panels" page.

Jerri


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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 00:29:33 1998
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From: <Beveler4@aol.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Varying width of glass
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 02:05:19 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul2.6519.0>
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You may also use some coins such as nickels and quarters to hold the pieces to
the correct level. I have done as Mr. Weaver said, used the differences as a
method of plating with many coins stacked under some pieces and none under
others etc.
You get the idea,also can use clear plate glass for plating to give some depth
to the glass.Beveler4(Stan)
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 03:00:05 1998
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X-Path: tm.net.my!shakeel
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Flameworking
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 16:51:20 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul3.05120.0>
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Hi folks,

As all of you would be aware by now, my knowledge about stained glass is
very limited. I sometimes ask very basic and silly questions.

Having done some panel lamps, and now half way though the Tiffany style
(dafodil - on a Worden mold) I have come across references to flameworking.
What exactly is flameworking. Is that technique used for making lampshades?

Any books? Or sites that have more information on.

Buying a kiln is presently not in my scheme of things, costs a ton here. But
a torch does not seem too forbiding.

Thanks.

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 03:31:29 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: what happened to the TOPIC OF THE WEEK ?
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 16:55:18 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul3.05518.0>
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Some time back some had mooted the idea of having a topic of the week.
Wonder what has happened to that wonderful idea.  Was it further discussed,
then I must have missed it. Please fill me in some one?

If it petered out, perhaps we should bring it back, What do say Albert,
Mike, Shirley, Elesabeth, Patrick, and all the others.


Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 05:28:06 1998
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From: <BMarhon@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: what happened to the TOPIC OF THE WEEK ?
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 07:03:23 EDT
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In a message dated 7/2/98 6:35:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, shakeel@tm.net.my
writes:

<< Some time back some had mooted the idea of having a topic of the week.
 Wonder what has happened to that wonderful idea.  Was it further discussed,
 then I must have missed it. Please fill me in some one? >>

I'm new so don't know about the past discussion, but I think it's a great
idea!
Brenda
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 05:43:22 1998
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To: jroey@juno.com
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Subject: Re: My poppy is up.
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 07:07:35 EDT
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In a message dated 7/1/98 11:55:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jroey@juno.com
writes:

<< Hi all,
 	I finally have a picture of the poppy up on my page.  This was
 the one from SGN that many of you gave me advice about framing and
 hanging, and then there was the dreaded Restrip (I won't even go into
 that.).....  I don't have the specifics up on the page, but it measures
 15"w  x 17 1/2"h.  I fused the center piece using clear stringer and
 black and brown frit on clear glass.  I also fused the background pieces
 using frit, confetti, and stringer.
 
 	If you want to see it:
 
 	www.mindspring.com/~roey
 
 	It's on the "panels" page. >>

It's beautiful!  Looks like it's leaping right off the panel.  Your entire
website (and your husband's as well) is very interesting and professional.
Great work!
Brenda
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 07:43:43 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Flameworking and kilns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 09:38:25 +0000
Message-ID: <199807021449.KAA07066@vger.vgernet.net>
Precedence: bulk


> Having done some panel lamps, and now half way though the Tiffany style
> (dafodil - on a Worden mold) I have come across references to flameworking.
> What exactly is flameworking. Is that technique used for making lampshades?

Nope, although some lampshades are made by glassblowers, notably the 
"Puffies." But that's on-the-pipe glassblowing. For a hotbed of 
lampworking people, advice and stuff, go to
http://www.hotglass.com/ 
and click on Glass Line's Bulletin Board that's down the page a bit 
in blue type. You'll find a ton of stuff there about flameworking, 
which is also called "lampworking."


> Any books? Or sites that have more information on.

There are twelve books listed in the Guild's online library at
http://www.aiap.com/amazon/

But you can also use the search tool at
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga

Just type in the word "lampworking" or "flameworking" (or both) to 
get a list of books available from Amazon.com online
. 
> Buying a kiln is presently not in my scheme of things, costs a ton here. But
> a torch does not seem too forbiding.

I dunno. You might get in touch with Marty Daily at Centre de Verre. 
He sells lots of kilns overseas and just might be able to provide one 
to you at a reasonable cost:

Marty Daily
Centre De Verre
18 Bartlett Street
Allenstown NH 03275 - 

Phone: ( 603 ) 485 - 8749
Fax: (603) 485-8344
Email: hotglass4u@aol.com


Good luck with all this!

Albert
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 08:20:53 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: My poppy is up.
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 06:57:21 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807021357.GAA27043@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

Jerri,
Great stuff!!!
Loved your poppy (loved it all)
Fabulous glass painting! Can I come for lessons?
And Snoopy the mosaic is to die for!
Great site, really enjoyed the visit.
Thanks, Cindy

>
>Hi all,
>	I finally have a picture of the poppy up on my page.  This was
>the one from SGN that many of you gave me advice about framing and
>hanging, and then there was the dreaded Restrip (I won't even go into
>that.).....  I don't have the specifics up on the page, but it measures
>15"w  x 17 1/2"h.  I fused the center piece using clear stringer and
>black and brown frit on clear glass.  I also fused the background pieces
>using frit, confetti, and stringer.
>
>	If you want to see it:
>
>	www.mindspring.com/~roey
>
>	It's on the "panels" page.
>
>Jerri
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 09:23:15 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: topic of the week
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:13:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul2.11339.0>
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Just a friendly reminder of a suggestion which may not be implemented,

Be nice to put in the subject line: Non glass: (put topic here)

makes the inbox helper feel wanted and useful.

thanks, H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 12:35:38 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: Howard and Elaine Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:31:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul2.93148.0>
References: <<1998Jul2.11339.0>>
Organization: @Home Network
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Yes, topic of the week is a good idea, IMHO, must have missed the
suggestion before.  Since I'm doing my first fusing With my little
Paragon Quick Fire Kiln-(it is on soak right now). May I suggest the
thread-

Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???  There are two or three
brands, all somewhat similar.  This one goes to 1500 in about 7 minutes.

So Here goes,

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

Howard and Elaine Rubin wrote:
> 
> Just a friendly reminder of a suggestion which may not be implemented,
> 
> Be nice to put in the subject line: Non glass: (put topic here)
> 
> makes the inbox helper feel wanted and useful.
> 
> thanks, H
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 13:00:30 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:45:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul2.94514.0>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

I'm just doing my first project with my new Quick Fire Kiln.  I'm making
matching earrings, with slab pendant bead, matching.  Dichroic Glass
with Clear over it.  COE 90, Uroboros glass.  They are in the 'soak'
cycle rignt now.  Now down to the annealing cycle(can't peek) until it
cools to room temp.  

Just to start a Weekly topic :-)))),


Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
Happy with new toy----
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 14:46:25 1998
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From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
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Subject: [Fwd: Progressive art]
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:26:13 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------0C6A90ED062924B69F20D281
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Hi everyone,

I received this in the mail from a gentleman in Japan. I don't want you
to pay attention to the request for financial backing, of which I
believe he wants. But I'm interested in this hot glass technique he is
doing.

If anyone cares to take a look and give us all some input on this than
that would be great. I found it very beautiful and quite interesting.

Thanks

Pam

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Message-ID: <359C446D.422B@japan-net.or.jp>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 19:39:41 -0700
From: Fumio Nishiyama <fumio@japan-net.or.jp>
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Subject: Progressive art
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--------------24E3C3205
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Dear Sirs

I invented the art of the very beautiful illumination
which used a cracked glass balls.
This beauty is found neither in Japan nor in World.
Using this, the beauty like a dreamland can be created.
I am looking for a company which commercializes this 
technique. And, I am looking for a broker and an agent.
This technique can be variously used from a small 
accessories to a building.
(ATTACHED PHOTO is one of the SAMPLERS : 2638bytes)
This invention became a newspaper stories of an
influential newspaper in Japan of at least four
newspapers. There are a lot of photos, graphics,
drawings in my home page.
Please come visit me. (feast one's eyes)

http://www.japan-net.or.jp/~fumio/fantasy2.html

Sincerely yours.

Fumio Nishiyama

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 15:47:34 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, leestat7@home.com
Subject: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Thu,  2 Jul 1998 17:23:51, -0500
Message-ID: <199807022123.RAA16930@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>I'm just doing my first project with my new Quick Fire Kiln.  I'm 
making
matching earrings, with slab pendant bead, matching.  Dichroic Glass
with Clear over it.  COE 90, Uroboros glass.  They are in the 'soak'
cycle rignt now.  Now down to the annealing cycle(can't peek) until 
it
cools to room temp.  

Just to start a Weekly topic :-)))),

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
Happy with new toy----<<

I have a couple of Quick Fire Kilns. If I was into jewlery it would 
be nice to have about four kilns to do production. Have other kilns 
should this be desirable.

I like the QFs because they are quick and do not use a lot of 
electricity.

Took my 1/4" drill and drilled a hole through the fiber muffle at the 
rounded seam between the top and front. Hole lines up with the center 
of the bottom. When the kiln is over about 1500'F the glow from the 
elements allows me to view the work. Does not seem to change the 
heating or cooling characteristics.

I have made many a flock of hummers with these kilns. Do them on a 
clear backing plate, cut them out and lead into windows. Have come up 
with a number of hummer designs over the years and feel they beat any 
full leaded hummer. Also fuse the leaves and flowers the same way. 
Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*What!   And try to teach her to put up the seat?*
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 17:22:02 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 16:04:20 -0700 (PDT)
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>Hi Guys,
Sounds like a good topic! 
That's quick fire for sure...mine takes an hour on high (not a quick fire)
and then it's 1500'
Did that once by mistake, thought it was on low...(Cindy can scare herself)
But never fear, the beautiful bullseye was okay, tried to do it again and it
broke.
Question-
Why so high so soon?

Smiles, Cindarooni
PS: went to see a glass blower this week, he showed me how he worked... he
blew a paper thin bottle and told me the degrees as it was cooling. It was
annealed in the open air,.... I was super surprized!!! 

Lee has said:
>Yes, topic of the week is a good idea, IMHO, must have missed the
>suggestion before.  Since I'm doing my first fusing With my little
>Paragon Quick Fire Kiln-(it is on soak right now). May I suggest the
>thread-
>
>Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???  There are two or three
>brands, all somewhat similar.  This one goes to 1500 in about 7 minutes.
>
>So Here goes,
>
>Lee Boe
>Rain-Boe's Creations
>
>
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 19:42:16 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: re:topic of the week
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 20:50:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul3.05035.0>
Precedence: bulk

i have a quick fire and have had it for about 6 years sitting in the box in
the closet.
i got it out recently to fire up and it would not fire. no heat. annybody have
this happen before? so i work in my larger kiln for now. i would sure like to
fire up the little one if possible.

also another dilemma with my paragon. it has a computer box that i program the
temp and rate of increase temp and am not sure if it is possible to program it
to soak at any specific temp for 15 min or whatever is needed. i find myself
just reprogramming it up several times . does any one else have to deal with
this
dilemma.

blessings
kim
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 19:47:29 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: what happened to the TOPIC OF THE WEEK ?
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Precedence: bulk


Good idea!!
Says I - suitcase in hand!
Talk to you in 2 weeks, guys!
(Shakeel - enjoyed your Bio!)
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Some time back some had mooted the idea of having a topic of the week.
Wonder what has happened to that wonderful idea.  Was it further discussed,
then I must have missed it. Please fill me in some one?

If it petered out, perhaps we should bring it back, What do say Albert,
Mike, Shirley, Elesabeth, Patrick, and all the others.

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 21:21:58 1998
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From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 22:48:44 -0400 (EDT)
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Lee  Boe wrote:

>Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???
>There are two or three brands, all somewhat
>similar. This one goes to 1500 in about 7
>minutes.

I have a created a line of jewelry, mostly dichroic glass, using the
Paragon QuickFire 6.  I'm very happy with it.  I do use a controller
(the Paragon PCB-1) to slow the ramping up.  In the beginning I kept
really good notes and graphed the temps and the results.  I've more or
less got some of it down to a science, but still graph it out if I'm
trying something new.

One concern I have is that the pyrometer seems to be inaccurate... It
indicates temps higher than I know, from experience, that they probably
are.  For instance, when I want a full fuse, the temp on the
quick-fire's pyrometer is between 1700-1750 F.  I KNOW it's probably not
really that hot.  Has anyone else had that experience with their
quick-fire.  I called Paragon and they said this is normal for these
little kilns, because of the difference in heat in the glass on the kiln
shelf, and where the pyrometer enters the kiln, which is at the top of
the muffle.  I have gotten used to this in most applications, but when I
want to try using something new... i.e. fire-on gold paint or lustres,
which specify a specific temp., it's kind of by-guess and by-golly.
Does anyone else have this discrepancy, and, if so, how do you deal with
estimating the "real" temps???

I've mostly been lurking on this list for a few months, but I've really
learned a lot.  I'm scheduled to take a lampworking class at Horizons
(in Mass.) in August and I have a feeling that will generate a whole
host of questions.

I think this "Topic of the Week" idea is great, particularly since you
picked one that is near and dear to me!  Lee, please let us all know how
the jewelry came out!!!

Joan
Beadnik Jewelry Creations
Connecticut


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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: Howard and Elaine Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:31:48 -0400
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Yes, topic of the week is a good idea, IMHO, must have missed the
suggestion before.  Since I'm doing my first fusing With my little
Paragon Quick Fire Kiln-(it is on soak right now). May I suggest the
thread-

Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???  There are two or three
brands, all somewhat similar.  This one goes to 1500 in about 7 minutes.

So Here goes,

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

Howard and Elaine Rubin wrote:
> 
> Just a friendly reminder of a suggestion which may not be implemented,
> 
> Be nice to put in the subject line: Non glass: (put topic here)
> 
> makes the inbox helper feel wanted and useful.
> 
> thanks, H
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 22:20:46 1998
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From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, Kcotcher@aol.com
Subject: Re: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Fri,  3 Jul 1998 00:17:16, -0500
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>>bob, when you refer to hummers are you refering to humming birds? i 
have
thought that it would be great way to decorate the glass in the 
leaded window,
to fuse designs into the glass before cutting out and putting into 
the panel.

kim <<

Yes, hummers = humming birds. Cut a graceful body shape, three 
feathers for a tail and six for a wing. A black or dark green for the 
eye and beak is nice. I ALWAYS use cranberry for the throat. By 
overlapping the glass it is not necessary to use a backing plate but 
I like to do so for strength. By changing the angle of the wing(s) 
and tail the bird is changed greatly.

I often fuse on coarse shelf paper for a good texture effect. Bob
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  2 23:45:55 1998
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X-Path: email.msn.com!bird_cage
From: "Doug Parrott" <bird_cage@email.msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: insurance for fairs
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 21:37:43 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul2.143743.0>
Precedence: bulk

last week I asked for input on insurance for fairs.   (or maybe it was the
week before that... i don't remember... I'm getting old)
Anyway I just wanted to share with you about  one of the Company's I found.
It is with R.L.I. insurance and is available through independent insurance
agents who belong to "Independent Insurance Agency"  It is $150 a year for
$300,000 liability coverage.   $1,000,000 coverage is also available.  Most
agents don't know about it, however if they are a member of IIA, they can
contact IIA for the coverage.   I found out about this because I am an agent
for non-standard auto and our agency is a member of IIA.  I was at an IIA
function and it was brought up.  I do the insurance thing two days a week to
help support my stained glass habit.

Just thought I'd pass this on.

cheryl
bird_cage@msn.com



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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:topic of the week
Date: Fri,  3 Jul 1998 00:33:05, -0500
Message-ID: <199807030433.AAA14422@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>i have a quick fire and have had it for about 6 years sitting in 
the box in
the closet.
i got it out recently to fire up and it would not fire. no heat. 
annybody have
this happen before? so i work in my larger kiln for now. i would sure 
like to
fire up the little one if possible.<<

The best I can think is that you are plugging into a switch 
controlled wall socket. Plug into a known hot circuit. Of coures the 
line switch must be on. If this fails and you are not into electric 
troubleshooting then take it to a small apliance repairman. Perhaps 
you only have a loose connection where the line cord makes up with 
the element.

>>also another dilemma with my paragon. it has a computer box that i 
program the
temp and rate of increase temp and am not sure if it is possible to 
program it
to soak at any specific temp for 15 min or whatever is needed. i find 
myself
just reprogramming it up several times . does any one else have to 
deal with
this dilemma.<<

Need model number for your Paragon controller, Bob
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From owner-glass Fri Jul  3 11:16:27 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: Joan <Beadnik2@webtv.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 13:04:44 -0400
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Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Yup, my experience too, but I figured the difference is about 200 deg.
This is just by seat of the pants reckoning. And, don't get a phone call
in the middle-I was away for 6 extra minutes this morning and the 4 in
the kiln made nice flat puddles, instead of the nice fused look I was
after. Of the 4 maybe one is salvageable.  They are very small though,
so most lost is the time.  It takes 2-3 hours for the little kiln to
cool enough to take the pieces out. So will try again tonight, with an
overnight cool down.  Any one try the glass to metal (sterling or gold)
fusing???

Please let us know about the lampworking class, Joan, I will be trying
to teach myself this summer from video's with a hot head torch and
morretti rod to start.  I want to see if I like it before going into the
expense of a bench burner.  (That needs hoses, regulators, tanks) Does
anyone have such an outfit they would like to sell at a really
reasonable price???

Also, I'm checking out the hot glass sites, where there is ample info on
fusing and lampworking.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations


Joan wrote:
> 

> 
> One concern I have is that the pyrometer seems to be inaccurate... It
> indicates temps higher than I know, from experience, that they probably
> are.  For instance, when I want a full fuse, the temp on the
> quick-fire's pyrometer is between 1700-1750 F.  I KNOW it's probably not
> really that hot.  Has anyone else had that experience with their
> quick-fire.  I called Paragon and they said this is normal for these
> little kilns, because of the difference in heat in the glass on the kiln
> shelf, and where the pyrometer enters the kiln, which is at the top of
> the muffle.  I have gotten used to this in most applications, but when I
> want to try using something new... i.e. fire-on gold paint or lustres,
> which specify a specific temp., it's kind of by-guess and by-golly.
> Does anyone else have this discrepancy, and, if so, how do you deal with
> estimating the "real" temps???
> 
> I've mostly been lurking on this list for a few months, but I've really
> learned a lot.  I'm scheduled to take a lampworking class at Horizons
> (in Mass.) in August and I have a feeling that will generate a whole
> host of questions.
> 
> I think this "Topic of the Week" idea is great, particularly since you
> picked one that is near and dear to me!  Lee, please let us all know how
> the jewelry came out!!!
> 
> Joan
> Beadnik Jewelry Creations
> Connecticut
> 
>                                                   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: topic of the week
> Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:31:48 -0400
> From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
> Organization: @Home Network
> To: Howard and Elaine Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
> References: <<1998Jul2.11339.0>>
> 
> Yes, topic of the week is a good idea, IMHO, must have missed the
> suggestion before.  Since I'm doing my first fusing With my little
> Paragon Quick Fire Kiln-(it is on soak right now). May I suggest the
> thread-
> 
> Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???  There are two or three
> brands, all somewhat similar.  This one goes to 1500 in about 7 minutes.
> 
> So Here goes,
> 
> Lee Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> 
> Howard and Elaine Rubin wrote:
> >
> > Just a friendly reminder of a suggestion which may not be implemented,
> >
> > Be nice to put in the subject line: Non glass: (put topic here)
> >
> > makes the inbox helper feel wanted and useful.
> >
> > thanks, H
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Jul  3 17:15:37 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: BOB DUCHESNEAU <YWAH36A@prodigy.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Not Glass-Pray if you will
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 18:19:19 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul3.141919.0>
References: <<199807030417.AAA14496@mime3.prodigy.com>>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

I am on the west coast of Florida, not in Danger, but at 3 pm this
afternoon, the Governor ordered the complete evacuation of TWO Whole
counties on the east coast.  About 75,000 people, animals, everything.
Flagler and Volusia counties.  125 miles of I95 are closed from
Titusville to Jacksonville, and many local roads are closed also. The
three major fires are converging and may burn all the way to the ocean. 
WOW.  My prayers are with all the displaced, and hope you all will join
me.  Rain, Rain, please Rain.  320,000 acres are burned so far.  

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 01:57:41 1998
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From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re:Not Glass Pray
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 00:50:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul3.175039.0>
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Lee Boe wrote:

I am on the west coast of Florida, not in Danger, but at 3 pm this
afternoon, the Governor ordered the complete evacuation of TWO Whole
counties on the east coast.  About 75,000 people, animals,
everything.<snip>

Hi everyone,

Sure wish I could send you some of our pacific northwest rain! Have been
praying for all of you and hope for some resolution soon! If you need
any help of some sort don't hesitate to ask. I'm a long way away but I
think alot of us in the group would be happy to help any way we can. Is
there a service group that is taking supplies for the displaced? All I
know is what I've read, we don't watch the news on t.v. anymore.

I'd like to send something but don't know where. Could you let me know
Lee? I'm supposing that there were folks who still lit those fireworks
on the 4th in Florida. Such a shame, I'm praying for you!

See you,

Pam

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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 02:10:05 1998
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From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: Stained Glass Artists <moswood@listbot.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------78C0B58937747C7DDB229651"
Subject: New glass hobbyist gallery
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 01:10:36 -0700
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Hi everyone,

Just thought I'd let you know that you can submit a photo for our hobby
gallery. Any takers on this one! Dare, Dare.
I decided that some people would maybe like to show some of their art
work, related to glass, so the option is open if you want to do this.

Here is the page that will showcase your artwork. I know there is nobody
there. I just did the page today. So send me a pic, will ya! I know the
bungi group has a gallery provided by Daniel but this is just another
option.

http://www.pacifier.com/~ptap/hobby.html

Sincerely,

Pam

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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 07:13:55 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 09:08:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul4.5836.0>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi Everyone,

The second fusing yesterday went just fine, didn't get called away at
the wrong time.

Thanks to everyone who replied to the call for help and prayers, the
main agency coordinating help for all the displaced people is the 
American Red Cross  1-800-HELP-NOW OR ON THE INTERNET AT:
http://www.redcross.org

Sale and use of personal fireworks banned for the whole state, it is all
as dry as the east coast.  Professional displays are mostly scheduled
over the oceans or lakes and are going on.  CNN and the local stations
are doing a good job of covering the disaster.  More info is available
by doing a search for Florida Television stations, most have web sites.

Back to Glass, I really like this little kiln, fires fast, easy to use,
not much elec. needed.  I'm trying to get some Christmas ornaments done
for the Christmas in July show I'm doing.  Thank you all again, the out
pouring of help and prayers has been wonderful.  I'll answer each
individually direct off bungi.  

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 09:04:17 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!Leslye2
From: <Leslye2@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: basics of design help needed
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998 11:09:41 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul4.15941.0>
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Hi all,
My name is Leslye and I am getting back into glass after a 6 yr break to start
a family.  I had 8 years experience before that.  We have now built our house
complete with a room for my studio.  Yeah!

We built the front entrance with plans for me to design and make the panals.
We have a 2 half light side lights with a half light door.  I plan to have
bevels in all three windows and a border or two on the door.

Are there any sites (or books) for education in geometric design principles?
Do any of you have any words of wisdom?  It is distressing to realize how much
I have forgotten.

Thanks for your help,
Leslye
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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 10:07:51 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Leslye2@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: basics of design help needed
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 12:17:05 -0400
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Leslye2@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> My name is Leslye and I am getting back into glass after a 6 yr break to start
> a family.  I had 8 years experience before that.  We have now built our house
> complete with a room for my studio.  Yeah!
> 
> We built the front entrance with plans for me to design and make the panals.
> We have a 2 half light side lights with a half light door.  I plan to have
> bevels in all three windows and a border or two on the door.
> 
> Are there any sites (or books) for education in geometric design principles?
> Do any of you have any words of wisdom?  It is distressing to realize how much
> I have forgotten.
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> Leslye
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well i don't really have any designing stuff, but i have plenty of
stained glass tips on my page http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 13:09:05 1998
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From: <PDRUSS@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Not Glass --Pray
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998 15:15:12 EDT
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In a message dated 98-07-04 04:58:21 EDT, you write:

<<  Is
 there a service group that is taking supplies for the displaced? All I
 know is what I've read, we don't watch the news on t.v. anymore.
 
 I'd like to send something but don't know where. >>


The American Red Cross is doing a wonderful job helping the fire victims.
If you would like to help, please donate to your local American Red Cross

one of many web sites.
http://www.arccf.org/fire62398.html

**Do Not**  mark checks "FL fire victims" or any other special cause, this can
cause problems later down the line for the Red Cross.

Dianne
Jacksonville, FL
pdruss@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 13:38:45 1998
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From: <PDRUSS@aol.com>
To: PDRUSS@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Off topic--florida on fire--July 4th
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998 15:47:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul4.194735.0>
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Here's some news from the FL newspaper.
Dianne
Jacksonville, FL



Hundreds of wildfires continue to burn along the First Coast, displacing at
least 112,000 people in three counties - including Flagler, where everyone was
evacuated.

As three firestorms devoured Flagler County yesterday, police stations and
jails emptied, nursing homes and hospitals moved patients, an oceanarium shut
down and 40,000 residents fled.

Only firefighters were left to battle the flames - 5,000 degrees at the head
of the storms - but they, too, waited for the word to retreat to a safe
location.

The rest of the story is at:
http://www.jacksonville.com/tu-online/stories/070498/met_1a1FIRE_.html
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From owner-glass Sat Jul  4 18:45:50 1998
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: 4th of July
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998 18:02:08 PDT
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Hi everyone,..

Happy 4th of July to all Americans...


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 04:50:59 1998
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From: <Lubee2@aol.com>
To: Leslye2@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: basics of design help needed
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 07:34:24 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul5.113424.0>
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This is a bit more expensive than a book, but if you are interested There is a
computer program I have read about that may more than meet your needs since
you want to incorporate bevels.  It is a CAD program American Bevel
Incorporated had created called Designer 2.0.  It runs on Windows 95, and
allows you to work freehand or by scanning....Needless to say the available
bevel clusters are icorporated into the program for your use.  The article I
read even says that the program has glass from a number of different companies
in it so you can see what your design will look like in different
colors....Now the kicker is that it is$175, though with the project you have
it may be worth the cost....You can download a demo copy from their website at
www:americanbevel.com.

Sharon
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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 08:49:33 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: basics of design help needed
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 11:32:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul5.73217.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:Leslye2@aol.com
>Are there any sites (or books) for education in geometric design
principles?
Do any of you have any words of wisdom?  It is distressing to realize how=

much
I have forgotten.<

First, measure the dimension of the panel.  Then select a
bevel cluster which is smaller than those dimensions.
As far as geometric design principles, the best advice I
ever received was the power of three.  Seems the most
pleasing & professional looking designs divide the overall
dimensions into groupings of three rather than groupings
of two.  For instance, since you mentioned a half-sized
sidelight setting, I would suggestion you do three bevels
for each sidelight.  Select a pretty, fancy bevel cluster to
be your middle one, and then two other single bevels
which somehow reflect the major design in the bevel
cluster.  But make these two other bevels smaller than
the primary bevel cluster.  Position them equidistance
from each other, allowing same distance from the top
and bottom of the panel to the bevel.

You can divide the overall length by 4 to give you where
to place the 3 lines.  The 4th division line becomes the
top of the panel.  Now divide the width by 2.  Draw
intersecting lines.  Now place the major bevel cluster
directly atop the center cross hairs.  Place the other 2
bevels on the other 2 cross hairs.  Now add any break
lines required by the bevel clusters.

If you want a formal geometric look, make sure the
right side mirrors the left side, and the top third
mirrors the bottom third.

If you want a less-formal geometric look, work with
diagonals of varying angels and lengths.  Add in
occasional curves and throw in some jewels.

Have some fun!
Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 14:20:41 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, kleeman@one.net
Subject: Re: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Sun,  5 Jul 1998 16:43:11, -0500
Message-ID: <199807052043.QAA16998@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>bob
after the glass is fused, is it harder to score and break?
i am playing around with some ideas similar to the one you described, 
but
did not know how the glass would break after firing
thanx 
debbie taylor<<

Well deb it just all depends. If you keep the kiln closed and allow 
it to cool naturally from anneal (generally about 950'F) to below 
700'F the glass is likely to cut like butter. It may in fact cut 
better than the unfused glass.

On the other hand, flash cooling the kiln in the above range will 
tend to temper the glass and make cutting difficult.

I do not like the Quick fire kilns for firing more than two layers of 
1/8th" glass due to the inadequate cooling characteristics for 
thicker glasses.  Bob

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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 14:48:39 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Joan <Beadnik2@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:43:40 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Jul5.224340.0>
References: <<1998Jul2.184844.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1998Jul2.184844.0@?>, Joan <Beadnik2@webtv.net> writes
'.................'
>
>One concern I have is that the pyrometer seems to be inaccurate... It
>indicates temps higher than I know, from experience, that they probably
>are.  For instance, when I want a full fuse, the temp on the
>quick-fire's pyrometer is between 1700-1750 F.  I KNOW it's probably not
>really that hot.  Has anyone else had that experience with their
>quick-fire.  I called Paragon and they said this is normal for these
>little kilns, because of the difference in heat in the glass on the kiln
>shelf, and where the pyrometer enters the kiln, which is at the top of
>the muffle.  I have gotten used to this in most applications, but when I
>want to try using something new... i.e. fire-on gold paint or lustres,
>which specify a specific temp., it's kind of by-guess and by-golly.
>Does anyone else have this discrepancy, and, if so, how do you deal with
>estimating the "real" temps???
>
I've never had one of these "quick fire" things, because they loose heat
so quickly too.  But I have had to calibrate my temp. readout.  I did
this by using the cones which ceramics people use.  Some of the lower
temp ones are in the range for glass work.  See when the cone falls, and
compare the read out.  Then you have a difference between that part of
the kiln temp and the readout.  place other cones at different levels
and parts of the kiln for other differences.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 15:19:17 1998
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bio # 33  Brandon Jones (UK)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 04:56:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul4.23568.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everybody.

Very brief information about me I think.

I am a member of the academic staff of the university in the school of
Electronic and Electrical Engineering. My interest in glass
goes back a few years in the form of pushing glass to optical
wavelengths not cutting and forming glass as the group interest is.I am new
to this side of glass and at present I am basically spending several months
researching methods before attempting even a first
design mainly for installation in my own house for my own pleasure.

I have always been practical, a compulsive hobbyist in some form or another
and come from a family that most of the members are craft skilled in either
hobby or professional contexts.

As far as hobbies are concerned I usually achieve reasonable skill
levels but never perfectionist skill levels and expect to do the same with
coloured glass in whatever I choose to attempt in the future as projects.

The group in general seems very friendly and informative in the time that I
have been lurking. The flames and the clashes are perfectly normal in the
context of variety in human psychology that I
understand and have been identical in all the other lists or groups that I
have attended in many years into the past in other hobbies or work related
subjects..it will never change.

I think I will now go back to lurking but I will drop in if I think I
have 2 cents to add to the discussions or if I need to pose a question in
future. Nice to meet you all over the magic wire..

Brandon S. Jones


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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 15:48:23 1998
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re:Site for picture submission
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 15:07:54 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------33BAE7D3F4DD86E22F5C4AE4
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Hi all,

Well Lee was the first one to take me up on the hobby site I've added.
Check out his work and send me some more pic's. He's all alone in there!
How about all of the bungi lurkers? Yes you, we know you are there we
can here you breathing!

http://www.pacifier.com/~ptap/hobby.html

P.S. I know I wouldn't call Lee a hobbyist either more of a pro hobbyist
actually, but the page is for everyone. Could be your first creation in
stained glass that has a special meaning for you or whatever.

And I heard that Florida may get a respite soon! Hooray! Those glasses
of wine and rain dance we did last night must have helped!

See ya,

Pam

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n:              Burns-Tappan;Pamela 
org:            Moswood Mountain Limited
adr:            http://www.pacifier.com/~ptap/index.html;;http://www.pacifier.com/~ptap/artists.html;;;;USA
email;internet: ptap@pacifier.com
title:          President
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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 16:06:58 1998
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bio# 34  Karlene?  (Hill I think)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 05:14:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul5.01415.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am 42 and only been into glass for 4yrs as strictly a hobbiest. Have only
been with the Bungi Group for a month. I am a little shy and self conscience
of my level. The level of egotistical attitudes they know their stuff and
are quick to tell you so.

So as said my Bio would not be very interesting to most of the group.

Local girl married high school sweetheart for 23 years have 2 daughters. I
have worked at a local hospital as unit secretary for
25 years.

No major moves in life or high degrees. Just a big glass lover for many
years and had a great opportunity to learn the "art/craft" thru a local
store.

Since getting this computer for the family at Christmas have expanded my
knowledge thru this group and many wonderful sites.


Karlene

Personal note from Patrick:

Karlene has been working the second shift and obviously has limited time and
was not in a very creative mood when she went me this bio.

Thanks for  the bio Karlene.


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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 16:55:41 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Sun,  5 Jul 1998 19:09:15, -0500
Message-ID: <199807052309.TAA12810@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>I've never had one of these "quick fire" things, because they loose 
heat
so quickly too.  But I have had to calibrate my temp. readout.  I 
did
this by using the cones which ceramics people use.  Some of the 
lower
temp ones are in the range for glass work.  See when the cone falls, 
and
compare the read out.  Then you have a difference between that part 
of
the kiln temp and the readout.  place other cones at different 
levels
and parts of the kiln for other differences.

Steve<<

Pyrometric cones go off based on temperature AND rate of temperature 
assent. They will always read high when used in a Quick Fire Kiln. 
Large cones are calibrated to read at 108'F or 270'F per hour and 
small cones read at 540'F per hour. Much much to slow for the Quick 
Fire.

I agree with previous statements that these kilns read about 200'F 
higher than shelf temperature.

The rate of assent and decent may be slowed somewhat by using a shelf.
 Also scrap glass can be placed in the kiln to increase the mass 
being heated or cooled. So fill up the shelf with 1/4" scrap. The 
rates will be slowed by about 25% which is a good thing. Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*If they were not ment to be fleeced, then why were they created 
sheep?*
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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 18:22:51 1998
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Subject: The LOWEST Price In America
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 17:51:08 -0700 (PDT)
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NOW...


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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 18:49:20 1998
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X-Path: webtv.net!Beadnik2
From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:07:20 -0400 (EDT)
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Bob wrote:

>I agree with previous statements that these
>kilns read about 200'F higher than shelf
>temperature.

Yes, that has been my experience also.  However, I wonder whether this
is consistent through the range of temps. At fusing temps (approx.
1500F) this is certainly true, but what about around the 1000F range.
If my pyrometer reads 1000F on the Quick-Fire am I to assume that it is
really only 800F... somehow, I think the lower the temp, the less the
difference becomes.  Anyone else have any info or opinions on this?

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From owner-glass Sun Jul  5 19:53:03 1998
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To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 22:13:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul6.21332.0>
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I am searching for a Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern that Worden sold a few years
ago.  Does anyone know where I might it?
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  6 05:58:23 1998
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X-Path: city-net.com!dany
From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Skutt Octagon Kiln - kiln questions
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:37:38 -0400
Message-ID: <199807061229.IAA16497@dns.city-net.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone!

Does anyone on this list have the Skutt Octagon Kiln?  I am able to buy it
relatively cheap and wanted to ask a few questions.  I am just now learning
about kilns and many of my questions will be stupid (this is a warning!). 
I would like to have a kiln to make not only small items but also plates,
platters, and possibly items with more depth than that.

My main questions are 
1.  Do I have to have a ramp master with this kiln?  I'm asking since this
is almost the same price as the kiln itself.

2. Do I need to buy a pyrometer with it? 

3. There is a kiln that works on 120 Volt (Paragon GF-8B, Manual Control),
with the same dimensions as the Skutt Octagon, it just takes longer to fire
up.  Will it have the same capabilities? This model is top-fired.

4. The Skutt is side-fired.  Which is better for fusing/slumping? Where
should the heat-elements be?

5. Which book(s) would you recommend to learn about fusing since
unfortunately my suppliers don't offer any classes yet.


I know these are a lot of questions - if they've already been answered I'd
be happy to look in the archives if anyone could give me an idea when that
was.  Thanks for any help!

Dany

Daniela Birkelbach
Software Consultant
dany@city-net.com             http://www.city-net.com/~dany
**********************************************************************
Many new pictures up on my Stained Glass Pages.
Please come and visit!


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From owner-glass Mon Jul  6 06:16:14 1998
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Summertime
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 08:37:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul6.43717.0>
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is vacation time.  I too am going away for a couple of weeks, so don't
get too chatty.  I'm headed for a family reunion/50th wedding
anniversary (my parents) party.  We're headed for Vermont and I notice
along the way that we can stop at Simon Pearce Glass and watch glass
blowers.  Sounds like a good break in the trip.
I have noticed on other trips to Vermont that there is a state craft
organization with craft stores (I think there's one in downtown
Burlington).  It's nice to have that statewide organization, but the
prices in the stores are obviously "tourist prices" -- high enough to
make me laugh (or cry!).  Anyone on the list from Vermont -- knows about
these stores, etc...

Dorothy K

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From owner-glass Mon Jul  6 16:19:17 1998
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X-Path: intel.com!lynice.spangler
From: "Spangler, Lynice" <lynice.spangler@intel.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: topic of the week
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 15:35:07 -0700 
Message-ID: <1998Jul6.8357.0>
Precedence: bulk

Copper is the only metal  I know of with a COE close enough to 90 to use
with 90 COE glass.  I have fired copper spirals (made from stripped
telephone wire) in clear and they turned sort of purple.  I have also used
thicker copper wire fused in the top of a small piece as a hanging loop
(earring, pendant, christmas ornament) and it turns color as well.  However,
if the copper is outside the glass (as in the case of the loops) you can
sandblast it back to copper color...

L. Spangler

On Friday, July 03, 1998 10:05 AM, leestat7 [SMTP:leestat7@home.com] wrote:
> Yup, my experience too, but I figured the difference is about 200 deg.
> This is just by seat of the pants reckoning. And, don't get a phone call
> in the middle-I was away for 6 extra minutes this morning and the 4 in
> the kiln made nice flat puddles, instead of the nice fused look I was
> after. Of the 4 maybe one is salvageable.  They are very small though,
> so most lost is the time.  It takes 2-3 hours for the little kiln to
> cool enough to take the pieces out. So will try again tonight, with an
> overnight cool down.  Any one try the glass to metal (sterling or gold)
> fusing???
> 
> Please let us know about the lampworking class, Joan, I will be trying
> to teach myself this summer from video's with a hot head torch and
> morretti rod to start.  I want to see if I like it before going into the
> expense of a bench burner.  (That needs hoses, regulators, tanks) Does
> anyone have such an outfit they would like to sell at a really
> reasonable price???
> 
> Also, I'm checking out the hot glass sites, where there is ample info on
> fusing and lampworking.
> 
> Lee Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> 
> 
> Joan wrote:
> > 
> 
> > 
> > One concern I have is that the pyrometer seems to be inaccurate... It
> > indicates temps higher than I know, from experience, that they probably
> > are.  For instance, when I want a full fuse, the temp on the
> > quick-fire's pyrometer is between 1700-1750 F.  I KNOW it's probably not
> > really that hot.  Has anyone else had that experience with their
> > quick-fire.  I called Paragon and they said this is normal for these
> > little kilns, because of the difference in heat in the glass on the kiln
> > shelf, and where the pyrometer enters the kiln, which is at the top of
> > the muffle.  I have gotten used to this in most applications, but when I
> > want to try using something new... i.e. fire-on gold paint or lustres,
> > which specify a specific temp., it's kind of by-guess and by-golly.
> > Does anyone else have this discrepancy, and, if so, how do you deal with
> > estimating the "real" temps???
> > 
> > I've mostly been lurking on this list for a few months, but I've really
> > learned a lot.  I'm scheduled to take a lampworking class at Horizons
> > (in Mass.) in August and I have a feeling that will generate a whole
> > host of questions.
> > 
> > I think this "Topic of the Week" idea is great, particularly since you
> > picked one that is near and dear to me!  Lee, please let us all know how
> > the jewelry came out!!!
> > 
> > Joan
> > Beadnik Jewelry Creations
> > Connecticut
> > 
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Subject: Re: topic of the week
> > Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:31:48 -0400
> > From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
> > Organization: @Home Network
> > To: Howard and Elaine Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
> > References: <<1998Jul2.11339.0>>
> > 
> > Yes, topic of the week is a good idea, IMHO, must have missed the
> > suggestion before.  Since I'm doing my first fusing With my little
> > Paragon Quick Fire Kiln-(it is on soak right now). May I suggest the
> > thread-
> > 
> > Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???  There are two or three
> > brands, all somewhat similar.  This one goes to 1500 in about 7 minutes.
> > 
> > So Here goes,
> > 
> > Lee Boe
> > Rain-Boe's Creations
> > 
> > Howard and Elaine Rubin wrote:
> > >
> > > Just a friendly reminder of a suggestion which may not be implemented,
> > >
> > > Be nice to put in the subject line: Non glass: (put topic here)
> > >
> > > makes the inbox helper feel wanted and useful.
> > >
> > > thanks, H
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  6 16:53:17 1998
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X-Path: intel.com!lynice.spangler
From: "Spangler, Lynice" <lynice.spangler@intel.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Skutt Octagon Kiln - kiln questions
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 15:52:26 -0700 
Message-ID: <1998Jul6.85226.0>
Precedence: bulk



On Monday, July 06, 1998 5:38 AM, Daniela Birkelbach
[SMTP:dany@city-net.com] wrote:
> Hi everyone!
> 
> Does anyone on this list have the Skutt Octagon Kiln? 
yes
> 
> My main questions are 
> 1.  Do I have to have a ramp master with this kiln?  I'm asking since this
> is almost the same price as the kiln itself.
If the ramp master is an electronic controller, you don't have to have one
to use the kiln.  However, you will have to be very attentive and stay close
to your kiln to keep track of ramp times, soak times, temperatures.  Be
prepared to spend many hours near your kiln (assembling projects, reading,
etc.).  An egg timer can be a very handy tool to remind you to check the
kiln at intervals.
> 
> 2. Do I need to buy a pyrometer with it? 
You need a way to measure the temperature inside the kiln.  I don't know of
any way other than an electronic controller or a pyrometer.
> 
> 
> 4. The Skutt is side-fired.  Which is better for fusing/slumping? Where
> should the heat-elements be?

I've seen top-fired recommended for glass because the glass heats up more
evenly.  On a side-fired the outside edges of the glass heat up sooner  than
the middle.  I have a side-fired, however, and it's working just fine.
During the up-to-1000 ramp, if you are venting off organic residue, the
top-fired will take longer to heat up.  But if you have a large piece in the
side fired, you have ramp up and down more slower due to the temperature
gradient.
> 
> 5. Which book(s) would you recommend to learn about fusing since
> unfortunately my suppliers don't offer any classes yet.

We have Gil Reynolds "Fused Glass Handbook" and Boyce Lundstrom's "Kiln
Firing Glass".
> 
> 
>
Good luck, fusing is a blast!
L. Spangler

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From owner-glass Mon Jul  6 18:24:15 1998
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From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Topic of the Week
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 19:53:17 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Jul6.155317.0>
Precedence: bulk


>Copper is the only metal I know of with a COE
>close enough to 90 to use with 90 COE glass. >I

>have fired copper spirals (made from stripped
>telephone wire) in clear and they turned sort of
>purple. I have also used thicker copper wire
>fused in the top of a small piece as a hanging
>loop (earring, pendant, christmas ornament)
>and it turns color as well. However, if the
>copper is outside the glass (as in the case of
>the loops) you can sandblast it back to copper
>color...
>
>L. Spangler

I tried a test firing on a very small piece of glass incorporating fine
silver.  The silver did not oxidize and appeared shiney and "silvery"
looking, both in the portion encased in clear glass and the portion I
left extending out of the glass.  I have not tried this on a larger
piece... not sure how the difference in COE might effect it.

Joan

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From owner-glass Mon Jul  6 21:20:47 1998
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From: <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Not Glass-Pray if you will
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 23:28:04 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul7.3284.0>
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In a message dated 98-07-03 20:17:00 EDT, you write:

> Rain, Rain, please Rain.  320,000 acres are burned so far.  
>  
well here I am in Florida got here sunday nite, yes we brought some rain with
us .... enough to have to drive through 4 accidents in less then 10 miles.
Interstate 95 as you all know is closed but they have routed trafic through to
interstate 75 and to the florida turnpike (which is FREE if anyone wants to
know they are just waving you through)  I'm in orlando but fires are somewhere
close here now too.  Only briefly caught it on the news I don't think it is
part of the major fires a little bit east of us though.  We had thunderstorms
today, which is a little bad with the good (lightening is a BIG no no)   
Our prayers are with you all and hopefully there is an end to this soon
deb
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 00:19:31 1998
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Subject: Fwd: Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 02:44:09 EDT
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--part0_899793849_boundary
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 03:21:46 1998
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Subject: Re: Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 05:58:51 EDT
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FYI, only received a few lines of garble on this E-mail.  Am interested in
what you tried to say.  Know someone who would love a Coke lampshade!  Can you
try again?  Is it my server? or what?
Lenore
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 09:51:18 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Topic of the Week
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 12:21:23 -0400
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Hi Joan,

Did you use sheet silver, or casting grain (fine silver, not sterling). 
Just had the idea of encasing a couple of 'grains' in some bullseye
glass as an experiment.  The copper wire I've fused in for hangers works
fine but turns a 'blackish' which I think I can just polish off, to get
the copper color again.  Does anyone know about using Hanovia gold paint
on glass? firing temp>?  

Here is some instructions for the little kilns,  when it reaches 500 deg
turn off about 5 min to let the glass soak, then back on up to fusing
temp.  Fusing occurs between 1300 and 1700 depending on the glass.  So
far the spectrum I already have (not rated) is fusing fine with other
spectrum, as is the bullseye to bullseye.  Reorganized my work space so
fusing can go on on one bench while I'm cutting, soldering on another. 

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations 


> 
> I tried a test firing on a very small piece of glass incorporating fine
> silver.  The silver did not oxidize and appeared shiney and "silvery"
> looking, both in the portion encased in clear glass and the portion I
> left extending out of the glass.  I have not tried this on a larger
> piece... not sure how the difference in COE might effect it.
> 
> Joan
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 11:24:30 1998
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From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: leestat7@home.com (leestat7)
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Topic of the Week
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 13:44:12 -0400 (EDT)
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Lee wrote:

>Did you use sheet silver, or casting grain (fine
>silver, not sterling). Just had the idea of
>encasing a couple of 'grains' in some bullseye
>glass as an experiment.

Actually, I used 24 ga. round wire, which was all I had on hand at the
time.

>Here is some instructions for the little kilns,
>when it reaches 500 deg turn off about 5 min to
>let the glass soak, then back on up to fusing
>temp. Fusing occurs between 1300 and 1700
>depending on the glass.

I use the Paragon PCB-1 controller with my kiln.  I start it off at #2
for 1/2 hr., which brings the temp to approx 1100F (on the quick fire
pyrometer) .  I then turn the controller to 3.5 or 4, and let it ascend
for between 12 and 15 mins. depending on what I am trying to do... i.e.
full fuse, tack fuse, etc.  When the pyrometer gets close to what I
want, I peek inside.  Once it has fused to my satisfaction, I unplug the
kiln, and flash vent it to about 1300F.  I replace the muffle, and let
it cool to room temp, which takes approx 4 hrs.  This procedure works
well for me and is relatively hassle free. I religiously use a digital
kitchen timer, and haven't had any meltdowns yet!!!

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 11:46:33 1998
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X-Path: webtv.net!Beadnik2
From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: YWAH36A@prodigy.com (BOB DUCHESNEAU)
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 13:53:27 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Jul7.95327.0>
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>after the glass is fused, is it harder to score and
>break? i am playing around with some ideas
>similar to the one you described, but 
>did not know how the glass would break after
>firing thanx 
>debbie taylor<< 
>Well deb it just all depends. If you keep the kiln
>closed and allow it to cool naturally from anneal
>(generally about 950'F) to below 700'F the glass
i>s likely to cut like butter. It may in fact cut better
>than the unfused glass. 
>On the other hand, flash cooling the kiln in the
>above range will tend to temper the glass and
>make cutting difficult.

Bob,

I was particularly interested in your response to Deb that flash venting
tends to temper the glass and make it more difficult to score.  Would
this principle apply to drilling holes in the glass as well?  I have
been having some difficulty lately and never realized it may be because
I am inadvertently tempering the glass when I flash vent it.  I drill
very small holes (with a diamond bit in a dremel under water) in
relatively thin glass that has been fire-polished in the kiln.

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 11:58:16 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Topic of the Week
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 13:55:56 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul7.95556.0>
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Message text written by Joan
>I tried a test firing on a very small piece of glass incorporating fine
silver.  The silver did not oxidize and appeared shiney and "silvery"
looking, both in the portion encased in clear glass and the portion I
left extending out of the glass.  I have not tried this on a larger
piece... not sure how the difference in COE might effect it.<

I sell some fused/slumped pieces by Debra J. Van Tol
in which it looks like she embeds silver foil and gold
paint.  They also look nice and "silvery" and "goldish"
respectively.

I also sell some fused/enameled pieces by Nell Reeves
in which she embeds copper wire between clear glass
layers, as well as doing copper enamel work.  Very nice.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 12:23:47 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Spangler, Lynice" <lynice.spangler@intel.com>
Subject: Re: topic of the week
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 19:35:56 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Jul7.203556.0>
References: <<1998Jul6.8357.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk


Hi,
I've found that brass wire and foil works with glass to.  The exposed
parts need tohave the corrosion removed, but that under the glass is
bright.
Steve

In message <1998Jul6.8357.0@?>, "Spangler, Lynice"
<lynice.spangler@intel.com> writes
>Copper is the only metal  I know of with a COE close enough to 90 to use
>with 90 COE glass.  I have fired copper spirals (made from stripped
>telephone wire) in clear and they turned sort of purple.  I have also used
>thicker copper wire fused in the top of a small piece as a hanging loop
>(earring, pendant, christmas ornament) and it turns color as well.  However,
>if the copper is outside the glass (as in the case of the loops) you can
>sandblast it back to copper color...
>
>L. Spangler
>
>On Friday, July 03, 1998 10:05 AM, leestat7 [SMTP:leestat7@home.com] wrote:
>> Yup, my experience too, but I figured the difference is about 200 deg.
>> This is just by seat of the pants reckoning. And, don't get a phone call
>> in the middle-I was away for 6 extra minutes this morning and the 4 in
>> the kiln made nice flat puddles, instead of the nice fused look I was
>> after. Of the 4 maybe one is salvageable.  They are very small though,
>> so most lost is the time.  It takes 2-3 hours for the little kiln to
>> cool enough to take the pieces out. So will try again tonight, with an
>> overnight cool down.  Any one try the glass to metal (sterling or gold)
>> fusing???
>> 
>> Please let us know about the lampworking class, Joan, I will be trying
>> to teach myself this summer from video's with a hot head torch and
>> morretti rod to start.  I want to see if I like it before going into the
>> expense of a bench burner.  (That needs hoses, regulators, tanks) Does
>> anyone have such an outfit they would like to sell at a really
>> reasonable price???
>> 
>> Also, I'm checking out the hot glass sites, where there is ample info on
>> fusing and lampworking.
>> 
>> Lee Boe
>> Rain-Boe's Creations
>> 
>> 
>> Joan wrote:
>> > 
>> 
>> > 
>> > One concern I have is that the pyrometer seems to be inaccurate... It
>> > indicates temps higher than I know, from experience, that they probably
>> > are.  For instance, when I want a full fuse, the temp on the
>> > quick-fire's pyrometer is between 1700-1750 F.  I KNOW it's probably not
>> > really that hot.  Has anyone else had that experience with their
>> > quick-fire.  I called Paragon and they said this is normal for these
>> > little kilns, because of the difference in heat in the glass on the kiln
>> > shelf, and where the pyrometer enters the kiln, which is at the top of
>> > the muffle.  I have gotten used to this in most applications, but when I
>> > want to try using something new... i.e. fire-on gold paint or lustres,
>> > which specify a specific temp., it's kind of by-guess and by-golly.
>> > Does anyone else have this discrepancy, and, if so, how do you deal with
>> > estimating the "real" temps???
>> > 
>> > I've mostly been lurking on this list for a few months, but I've really
>> > learned a lot.  I'm scheduled to take a lampworking class at Horizons
>> > (in Mass.) in August and I have a feeling that will generate a whole
>> > host of questions.
>> > 
>> > I think this "Topic of the Week" idea is great, particularly since you
>> > picked one that is near and dear to me!  Lee, please let us all know how
>> > the jewelry came out!!!
>> > 
>> > Joan
>> > Beadnik Jewelry Creations
>> > Connecticut
>> > 
>> >
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > 
>> > Subject: Re: topic of the week
>> > Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 13:31:48 -0400
>> > From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
>> > Organization: @Home Network
>> > To: Howard and Elaine Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
>> > References: <<1998Jul2.11339.0>>
>> > 
>> > Yes, topic of the week is a good idea, IMHO, must have missed the
>> > suggestion before.  Since I'm doing my first fusing With my little
>> > Paragon Quick Fire Kiln-(it is on soak right now). May I suggest the
>> > thread-
>> > 
>> > Experiences with Quick Fire table top Kilns???  There are two or three
>> > brands, all somewhat similar.  This one goes to 1500 in about 7 minutes.
>> > 
>> > So Here goes,
>> > 
>> > Lee Boe
>> > Rain-Boe's Creations
>> > 
>> > Howard and Elaine Rubin wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Just a friendly reminder of a suggestion which may not be implemented,
>> > >
>> > > Be nice to put in the subject line: Non glass: (put topic here)
>> > >
>> > > makes the inbox helper feel wanted and useful.
>> > >
>> > > thanks, H
>> > ----
>> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 12:49:57 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Topic of the Week
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 13:55:59 -0400
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Message text written by leestat7
>Does anyone know about using Hanovia gold paint
on glass? firing temp>?  <

I've used Thomas C. Thompson liquid gold paint fired
onto clear plate glass.  Fires nice and shiney.  I ran mine
up to 1150 degrees.  I've never used Hanovia gold
paint though.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 18:58:41 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: new guy
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 18:25:24 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.12524.0>
Precedence: bulk


  Hi Everybody, I'm new here and wanted to meet the list.  My name is 
Scott and I live in Oregon.  I have been doing glass for 12 years and a 
little over one year professionaly.  Pam over at Stained Glass Rtist 
Members told be what a great place to learn this is.  I will be hosting 
the Tech corner over there on the message board.  I am sooo glad you are 
talking about kilns, I have not had a lot of "hot glass" experience and 
am learning soo much!  I am going to be teaching myself lampworking too 
this summer.  I am very knowledgaeble in all foil and have a wealth of 
experience in lead inserts etc..  well hi and bye for now...

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 19:31:08 1998
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From: Tim Byrnes <tbyrnes@snet.net>
To: "'Bungi Group'" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject:   July 9th to July 14th.
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:01:44 -0400
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BDA9F2.D6D672C0
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  Hi Folks,

 PLease remove me from the list from July 9th. til July 14th.  My Computer will be in for some sureogy.

 Thank you,
Tim Byrnes
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AAAAAEAAOQCgDkFbFKq9AR4AcAABAAAAGQAAACAgSnVseSA5dGggdG8gSnVseSAxNHRoLgAAAAAC
AXEAAQAAABYAAAABvaoUWznU0URMFdQR0p/pREVTVAAAAAAeAB4MAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4A
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KGd5LhttVBGAbmscIHkIYBtWB2EgQnkvBKAHkAqFFTEAJgADABAQAAAAAAMAERAAAAAAQAAHMKB5
ajcSqr0BQAAIMKB5ajcSqr0BHgA9AAEAAAABAAAAAAAAADmS

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 19:53:10 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!LuvArtGlas
From: <LuvArtGlas@aol.com>
To: Yegnim@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:49:43 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.14943.0>
Precedence: bulk

Im not sure what happend???   I am also interested in the coca cola pattern...
I will try again and post this same message to the list... When mine was
returned from the list it was garbled tooo I dont understand why???

Suzan, Fayetteville Ark
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  7 21:30:46 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: Beadnik2@webtv.net, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Quick Fire Kilns
Date: Tue,  7 Jul 1998 23:57:37, -0500
Message-ID: <199807080357.XAA17826@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

SNIP>>I will try venting the kiln for 5 seconds or so, just to stop 
the
heating process, and then replacing the muffle and letting it cool
naturally.  I am using clear Bullseye as a top layer, and haven't had 
a
devit. problem yet.  

Joan<<

When I bring a project to full fuse in the QF kilm the pyrometer 
reads about 1800'F. I remove the muffle, turn it over and place on 
the table. After a minute or so the project is just barely glowing 
and I replace the muffle. Seems like a lot of venting but thats what 
it takes. To fail to adequately vent will result in a project that is 
over fired.

For repeative firings, I work out a schedule that allows me to turn 
off the kiln at a given elapsed firing time. At that time the project 
is undercooked but it will continue to work while the kiln is in the 
higher ranges. To my way of thinking this is the best way to go but 
even a small change in the project glass can result in different 
results. requiring different firing times. 

Bullseye is a good choice to avoid divitrification but not necessary 
for most QF kiln projects. The QF kiln fires so fast that most 
Spectrum and Kokomo will not divitrify.  Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*If they were not ment to be fleeced, then why were they created 
sheep?*
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 06:46:47 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 06:24:56 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807081324.GAA06909@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

I have the pattern # listed as P20-9 for the Cocoa-cola.
But with the pattern mold P20-P it's easy to design.
I did one for myself with Harley Davidson gothic print on both sides.
Smiles, Cindy
>
>I am searching for a Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern that Worden sold a few years
>ago.  Does anyone know where I might it?
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 07:52:26 1998
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X-Path: hotmail.com!marycooper
From: "Mary Cooper" <marycooper@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Care and feeding of a Hothead
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 07:20:22 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.142022.0>
Precedence: bulk


I had a hothead torch in storage for a while, and hadnt used it for 
about a year. Previous to that, I used it pretty heavy, Ive owned for 
probably 5 years....
Anyway (I digress)I knew that due to being in storage, it needed to be 
cleaned like on the directions--The reverse the orifice trick--I did 
that and lately the the glass has been divitrifing,coming out in funky 
colors, and "burning" (It looks burnt....I swear.)
A new bottle of MAPP produced a great new flame, as only a fresh bottle 
can, for about a minute, then sputtered out and a small pathetic yellow 
flame came out the side where the o2 holes are. Hello, clogged torch 
head!(kinda scary!)
So, inventive me, took the torch head completely apart, and REALLY 
cleaned the interior surfaces. I made something that looks like a twisty 
drain snake out of 24 gauge wire and really scrubbed, the bent tube was 
the worst. Piles of this funky blackish-brown crust kept coming out.I 
then reassembled the tube part, with the head OFF and and used the MAPP 
to blow out the tube, with a couple big blasts. More funk and dust came 
out, until it was clear. Then I did the reverse orifice again, and 
finally put the head back on.
By God, it was like a brand new torch! Wheeee!
Hotter! Faster! Better! More Gooder!
Do this!I was gonna buy the Bobcat-I really think I will, but for now I 
love the HotHead again!
OK-Gotta go make more glass stuff!
Ciao!

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 09:26:49 1998
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Dinosaur Bob <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Garbled messages
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 11:57:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.75748.0>
Organization: Cox's Mower Service
Precedence: bulk

I think we should send this out on a regular basis - Other lists I know
have fiters set up to prevent HTML and large attachment postings.

Please review your OPTIONS or PREFERENCES  on your newsreader/browser,
and turn off 'send messages as HTML' or whatever options there are - Due
to the huge variations in software/hardware/server configurations, a
high tech message may be unreadable, or actually crash a low tech
reader/browser, due to the 'optional at extra cost' features sent in the
message.
Please be considerate of other members on the list.


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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 09:50:37 1998
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X-Path: wcnet.net!fibers
From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Griffen Glass Saw
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 10:16:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.51657.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have a chance to buy a used Griffin Glass Saw. Never owned a saw and
know nothing about them.
Must make a decission by Sat. and would appericate some info before then
Owner said he paid over $900.00.
TIA
Nelda

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 11:28:59 1998
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X-Path: sprintmail.com!MollysGlass
From: Molly Keys <MollysGlass@sprintmail.com>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Griffen Glass Saw
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 12:45:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.74518.0>
References: <<1998Jul8.51657.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Nelda,
I have owned a glass bandsaw and the Taurus Ring Saw II.  Invest your money
in the ring saw.  It literally cuts circles around a band saw and you can do
some intricate cuts with it.
Molly

fibers wrote:

> I have a chance to buy a used Griffin Glass Saw. Never owned a saw and
> know nothing about them.
> Must make a decission by Sat. and would appericate some info before then
> Owner said he paid over $900.00.
> TIA
> Nelda
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 12:03:42 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Topic of the Week, Hanovia gold
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 08:01:41 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807081501.IAA11797@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lee,
Hanovia gold firng temps I've used have been the same as Christie's. Mine
were for slumping and found the gold application nicer on the front of the
glass and not the back. They say cone 022 to 016 for glass,  I don't use
cones at all, but think cone 022 is around 1100' and 016 is 1443'F
Smiles, Cindy
>
>Message text written by leestat7
>>Does anyone know about using Hanovia gold paint
>on glass? firing temp>?  <
>
>I've used Thomas C. Thompson liquid gold paint fired
>onto clear plate glass.  Fires nice and shiney.  I ran mine
>up to 1150 degrees.  I've never used Hanovia gold
>paint though.
>
>Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
>4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
>----
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 12:31:55 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Griffen Glass Saw
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 14:53:45 +0000
Message-ID: <199807082012.QAA26905@vger.vgernet.net>
Precedence: bulk


> I have a chance to buy a used Griffin Glass Saw. Never owned a saw and
> know nothing about them.
> Must make a decission by Sat. and would appericate some info before then
> Owner said he paid over $900.00.

I'm not sure what their different models cost, but there are a few 
comments about bandsaws in an early issue of Common Ground at
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/cgg1i.htm

If you can get the used Gryphon saw's model number, you can contact 
Gryphon directly and ask them what the saw would cost new now ... 
it's possible that it's less expensive than it was then.  They can be 
reached at

Gryphon Corporation, 12417 Foothill Boulevard, Sylmar CA
                      91342- 6005. Phone: (818) 890-7770. Fax: (818)
                      890-7775.

Of course, since it's a used saw, it won't be worth what was paid for 
it ... it's worth is going to depend on how much use it's had, how 
worn it is, and whether replacement parts are even available for it 
any longer. Gryphon will have the answers to that.

There are other manufacturers of glass saws in
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guideg.htm
if you decide to look around.

Good luck!

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
A 501(c)(6) not-for-profit association
54 Cherry St., PO Box 1809, North Adams MA 01247-1809
(413) 663-5512  Fax: (413) 663-7167
_____________________________________________
Home page     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
Membership    http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/benefits.htm
Members' work http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm
Sources Guide http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm
Guild Library http://www.aiap.com/amazon/



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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 15:03:33 1998
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X-Path: aracnet.net!bigcreek
From: Wayne Parks <bigcreek@aracnet.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Church Window Restoration
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 17:26:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.132655.0>
Organization: Big Creek Studio
Precedence: bulk

I have 8 Church windows to re-lead and clean. These windows were
installed in 1912 and this is the first time anything has been done to
them. The windows are not overly spectacular (geometric in design) and
contain no painted glass. The glass is very dull and oxidized and rust
stained in spots. What is the best method of cleaning the glass prior to
leading?

Wayne Parks
Big Creek Studio

"To bring the dead to life
Is no great magic.
Few are wholly dead:
Blow on a dead mans embers
And a live flame will start."
                      Robert Graves
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 17:03:50 1998
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 8 Jul 1998 16:27:33 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: aol.com!BMarhon
From: <BMarhon@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Dremel tools
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 19:24:45 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.232445.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone!

The company I work for (a mailorder hobby model supply company called Model
Expo) is closing out all the Dremel tools and I can probably get a good deal.
I've see Dremel mentioned a few times here, but what all do you use it for and
what parts would you recommend for using the tool for stained glass.  Other
than drilling holes, what could I use it for?  I only do stained glass, no
fusing or slumping or whatever, although I'm starting to get interested after
reading about it this week.

I know this sounds kind of lame, but I can't pass up a good buy if I find one
(if I can use the item that is).
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 18:10:12 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: BMarhon@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Dremel tools
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 20:48:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.164838.0>
References: <<1998Jul8.232445.0>>
Precedence: bulk

BMarhon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> The company I work for (a mailorder hobby model supply company called Model
> Expo) is closing out all the Dremel tools and I can probably get a good deal.
> I've see Dremel mentioned a few times here, but what all do you use it for and
> what parts would you recommend for using the tool for stained glass.  Other
> than drilling holes, what could I use it for?  I only do stained glass, no
> fusing or slumping or whatever, although I'm starting to get interested after
> reading about it this week.
> 
> I know this sounds kind of lame, but I can't pass up a good buy if I find one
> (if I can use the item that is).
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i would get every bit that you can find. you can polish cut and clean
pieces with it. i've used it everywhere: tools, glass, wood, everywhere.
it's a good tool to have.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 18:27:24 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!LuvArtGlas
From: <LuvArtGlas@aol.com>
To: cpesonen@bcinternet.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Coca-Cola Lamp Shade Pattern
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 20:18:10 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.01810.0>
Precedence: bulk

I would like to have a copy of the coca-cola pattern please...

LuvArtGlas
Suzan White
P.O. Box 495
Johnson AR. 
72741
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 21:13:07 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re;church windows.
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 20:42:41 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.34241.0>
Precedence: bulk


I have worked on 1 restoration with my mentor and we used laquer thinner 
to get certain yuckies off, but if its real bad then you gotta just 
leave it there.  

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 21:29:59 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re;dremel
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 20:50:41 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.35041.0>
Precedence: bulk

 I hace seen the Dremel used sooo much its awesome.  it can also be used 
to engrave on the tools you use, engrave your name on glass, the cutoff 
wheels are great for zinc repairs, brass repairs, rebar repairs, the 
wire wheel is good for cleaning the oxidation and patina off of old lead 
to resolder onto.  how much can you get it for?? scott

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 21:44:42 1998
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To: bigcreek@aracnet.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Church Window Restoration
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 00:19:56 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.41956.0>
Precedence: bulk

As a start soak the glass in warm water (soft water is best no deposits on
glass). This should loosen the dirt and soften the putty. If not try a neutral
pH soap or detergent. Orvus is one, just dilute it a lot. I believe
Conservators Emporium carrys it 1-702-852-0404. For stubbron dirt you can try
acetone, toluene, xylene, MEK , or alcohol (ethanol, methanol, isopoply) or
mineral spirits , naphtha all smelly and nasty but they work. No  lye, oven
cleaner, drain cleaner nothing caustic, abrasive or acid.

After cleaning rinse the glass well in warm soft water to remove the cleaning
stuff.

If the putty does not soften in the water it was made with  portland cement
and the only way to get it off is to grind .... a job.
Good luck  Don
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 22:13:26 1998
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From: Goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: The Lamps of Tiffany-Price
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 00:38:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul8.203821.0>
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I want to purchase  The lamps of Tiffany by Neustadt.
So far the best price seems to be from Amazon.195.00
Does anyone know of a better source?
Thanks
Goldpaws

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  8 23:15:41 1998
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: RE: Coca Cola lamp shade pattern
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 01:39:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.53946.0>
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In addition to the pattern Im am also interested in Older Coca-Cola bottle
caps...

Suzan
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 00:17:01 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Decorative soldering
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 14:45:42 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.224542.0>
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I did it.

After two days and nights of dogged work I managed to get a line of
decorative solder.

Albeit only a simple line of dots.

For any one who might be interested, I have made my own stand for the Worden
mold. All I did was to weld a nut onto a rod and fix it onto a camera stand.
I took a peice of round plywood and guled it to the inside of the mold, the
mold now slips into the rod and I use a nut to tighten it.

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 00:32:10 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Paperweights .... and such
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 14:39:22 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.223922.0>
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Friends,

A friend sent me two old issues of Glass Craftsman magazine. (issues 142  &
144 Jun/Jul 97 & Oct/Nov 97) The issue 142 has some beautiful photos of
paperweights. I was, like, wow!

How are these peices of such beauty created. Could some one give me a brief
note on the process of making paperweights? I would enjoy a book on
paperweights but I am not in position to spend right now for something that
may be completely out of my league. Is there any web site detailing the
manufacturing process or does any one could send me photocopies of any
articles in any magazine.

Or any book that would describe all and you feel is worth the expenditure.

Would be real grateful.





Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 03:26:43 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Lamps of Tiffany-Price
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 06:10:53 +0000
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> I want to purchase  The lamps of Tiffany by Neustadt.
> So far the best price seems to be from Amazon.195.00
> Does anyone know of a better source?

The price is controlled by the Neustadt Museum. There is no lower 
price that I know of, as a result.

Albert
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 03:51:55 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Church Window Restoration
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 06:08:30 +0000
Message-ID: <199807091131.HAA05145@vger.vgernet.net>
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> contain no painted glass. The glass is very dull and oxidized and rust
> stained in spots. What is the best method of cleaning the glass prior to
> leading?

Abrasive cleansers, like Ajax or Comet, or cleaning materials, like
steel wool or fiberglass brushes, can leave permanent scratches in 
glass and should be avoided. Water is the universal solvent ... try 
bathing the glass in warm water and gently removing the dirt. On the 
other hand, here's a story that might throw some light:

A quantity of old painted glass having been sent to Mr. Forrest, a
glass painter..., to be cleaned, he found that the outer surface of
the whole was covered with a layer of what appeared to be hard dried
dust and rain, which was easily removed by a short application of
hydrofluoric acid.... He was struck, however, by observing that
every now and then there were perfectly clear places to which the dust
had apparently not adhered, and there were sometimes curved lines,
sometimes dots or roundish spaces, sometimes small and at other times
of considerable size. At first it simply appeared odd that the dirt
should have adhered so partially; but at length it struck him that
possibly these clear spaces might be intentional, and the dirt not
dirt at all, but paint burnt in to the surface of the glass. On
further examination he found that this really was the case, and that
the clear spaces were lights taken out of semi-opaque
background.... (FJ. Birkbeck Nevins, "The Secret of Ancient Painted
Glass," The Builder, Dec. 28, 1850.)

and

One of the most common problems faced by conservators is dirt, in all
its many permutations. One of the most common laments of owners of
windows is, "They're dirty." And somewhat paradoxically, the cleaning
of stained glass windows is one of the most complicated issues in its
conservation. "Carefully" is still the best
guideline, but obviously that's not very specific. As in all
restoration, though, every window is different, and the cause of the
problem must be addressed, as well as the problem itself. In addition,
one must remember that lead, waterproofing compound,
and glass paint are sometimes also subjected
to the cleaning. Whatever cleanser and method
are chosen, none of the materials in the window should be adversely
affected by the cleanser or the cleaning process. It is important to
fully understand the purpose of cleaning stained glass windows. To
most people, cleaning means removing the dirt that obscures the glass
and making the window as sparkling as when it was new. This is both
incomplete and not quite accurate. In the first place, we are dealing
with an old window. Why should it look new? After all, being old is
nothing to be ashamed of. Other antiques are valued for their old
appearance. There is great danger in over-cleaning,
and it is always better to err on the side of conservatism in
restoration ...

All from "Conservation of Stained Glass in America," by Julie L. 
Sloan, Albert Lewis, editor (Art in Architecture Press, 1995) 
http://www.aiap.com/

Albert

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 06:27:18 1998
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From: HILLEKER@Citadel.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Subject: The Lamps of Tiffany
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 09:03:14 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.5314.0>
Precedence: bulk

There is a used copy available.  Go to www.mxbf.com and enter the
author and/or title.  There is a copy available for $100 in fine
condition.  I'm not really sure what fine means in bookseller
terms though.

Russ
hilleker@citadel.edu

>I want to purchase  The lamps of Tiffany by Neustadt.
>So far the best price seems to be from Amazon.195.00
>Does anyone know of a better source?
>Thanks
>Goldpaws



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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 06:55:16 1998
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From: <Mebsjunk@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re:  Window Restoration
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 09:30:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.133046.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have found a old window.  The frame is missing and the outside lead came is
'loose'.  The top is arched so framing is not something that I can do.  As I
new beginner ,can I redo the came?  Where can I get information?  I do not
start my classes till Sept but hate to let this window get away.  18" x 26"
with only one piece cracked but you will not see unless looking for it.
Mary in Ga
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 07:07:26 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!GlasCrafts
From: <GlasCrafts@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: The Lamps of Tiffany-Price
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 09:39:15 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.133915.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello Goldpaws,
Our regular price for "The Lamps of Tiffany" by Neustadt (Cat.#7270W) is also
$195.00.  However, we have a limited number of copies that we can offer
members of the Bungi group for just $175.00.  Please email or call toll-free
to order and mention that you are a member of Bungi to receive the special
price.  Thank you.
Sincerely,
Rich

Glass Crafters Stained Glass, Inc.
398 Interstate Ct.
Sarasota, FL 34240
1-800-422-4552
1-941-379-8333
Fax: 1-941-379-8827
Email: GlasCrafts@aol.com
www.glasscrafters.com
http://members.aol.com/glascrafts
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 07:55:21 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Sorry about duplicates
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 10:29:54 +0000
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Sorry if one or more of my messages was duplicated this a.m. I had a 
message that it hadn't been sent, then while resending it, got my 
copy from bungi.com -- it wasn't intentional.

Albert
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 08:14:29 1998
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Haddonfield's 6th Annual Crafts and Fine Arts Festival
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 10:23:59 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199807091423.KAA19232@water.waterw.com>
Precedence: bulk

For those who love craft shows!!!!!!

Over 225 of the nations finest artist and craftspeople will converge on the
historical downtown district of Haddonfield, New Jersey on Saturday, July 11
from 10am-7pm and Sunday , July 12, from 12n-5pm.
I happen to be co-organizer of this event and if any one happens to stop by
I will be on hand at the information booth located on Kings Highway.

This premier southern New Jersey event is the largest outdoor juried show
of its type .  We boast as having over 100,000 in attendence last year and
look forward to a wonderful crowd again this year.

Admission is free and there is plenty of free parking.  We are also
accessible by the PATCO highspeedline.

I will be there both days all day.................so stop by and say hello.  

This is by no means an advertisement...................just an invitation.

my best,
pj 

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 08:27:50 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Church Window Restoration
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 10:23:37 +0000
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Precedence: bulk


> contain no painted glass. The glass is very dull and oxidized and rust
> stained in spots. What is the best method of cleaning the glass prior to
> leading?

Abrasive cleansers, like Ajax or Comet, or cleaning materials, like
steel wool or fiberglass brushes, can leave permanent scratches in 
glass and should be avoided. Water is the universal solvent ... try 
bathing the glass in warm water and gently removing the dirt. On the 
other hand, here's a story that might throw some light:

A quantity of old painted glass having been sent to Mr. Forrest, a
glass painter..., to be cleaned, he found that the outer surface of
the whole was covered with a layer of what appeared to be hard dried
dust and rain, which was easily removed by a short application of
hydrofluoric acid.... He was struck, however, by observing that
every now and then there were perfectly clear places to which the dust
had apparently not adhered, and there were sometimes curved lines,
sometimes dots or roundish spaces, sometimes small and at other times
of considerable size. At first it simply appeared odd that the dirt
should have adhered so partially; but at length it struck him that
possibly these clear spaces might be intentional, and the dirt not
dirt at all, but paint burnt in to the surface of the glass. On
further examination he found that this really was the case, and that
the clear spaces were lights taken out of semi-opaque
background.... (FJ. Birkbeck Nevins, "The Secret of Ancient Painted
Glass," The Builder, Dec. 28, 1850.)

and

One of the most common problems faced by conservators is dirt, in all
its many permutations. One of the most common laments of owners of
windows is, "They're dirty." And somewhat paradoxically, the cleaning
of stained glass windows is one of the most complicated issues in its
conservation. "Carefully" is still the best
guideline, but obviously that's not very specific. As in all
restoration, though, every window is different, and the cause of the
problem must be addressed, as well as the problem itself. In addition,
one must remember that lead, waterproofing compound,
and glass paint are sometimes also subjected
to the cleaning. Whatever cleanser and method
are chosen, none of the materials in the window should be adversely
affected by the cleanser or the cleaning process. It is important to
fully understand the purpose of cleaning stained glass windows. To
most people, cleaning means removing the dirt that obscures the glass
and making the window as sparkling as when it was new. This is both
incomplete and not quite accurate. In the first place, we are dealing
with an old window. Why should it look new? After all, being old is
nothing to be ashamed of. Other antiques are valued for their old
appearance. There is great danger in over-cleaning,
and it is always better to err on the side of conservatism in
restoration ...

All from "Conservation of Stained Glass in America," by Julie L. 
Sloan, Albert Lewis, editor (Art in Architecture Press, 1995) 
http://www.aiap.com/

Albert

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 10:35:02 1998
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:  Window Restoration
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 17:34:59 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.183459.0>
Precedence: bulk

At 09:30 09/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>I have found a old window.  The frame is missing and the outside lead came is
>'loose'.  The top is arched so framing is not something that I can do.  As I
>new beginner ,can I redo the came?  Where can I get information?  I do not
>start my classes till Sept but hate to let this window get away.  18" x 26"
>with only one piece cracked but you will not see unless looking for it.
>Mary in Ga
>----

Hello Mary, though understanding completely that you dont want to let the
grass grow under your feet, you would make a far better job of this window
if you wait till you have had some experience on small projects before
tackling it.
So I would suggest storing the window somewhere safe until you are ready and
capable of doing it well. After all it will be around for many years if you
repair it properly, and a poor job will only irritate you and you may have
to re-do it later if you rush at it in relative ignorance. As we often tell
our students - you wont have to feed it while it is awaiting attention :-)
Also you may find your teacher will be only too happy to show you the best
way to do the job as part of your course.
Good luck in your stained glass
Regards
Elizabeth Law (Bournemouth Stained Glass)
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 11:08:33 1998
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X-Path: mail.apple.com!karens
From: Karen Schroeder <karens@apple.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Re: The Lamps of Tiffany-Price
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 10:19:47 -0700
Message-ID: <199807091719.KAA07168@scv3.apple.com>
Precedence: bulk

I bought a copy from a bookseller in New York via mail order for about 
$100. I found it through the BiblioFind web site:

<http://www.bibliofind.com/>

Enter "neustadt" as the author keyword and "tiffany" as the title keyword.

Here are a couple of the hits:

Neustadt, Egon Dr.: The Lamps of Tiffany ; 2A ARTISTS/WORKS Fairfield 
Press, New York, 1970. G++/G+. Mustard cloth HB with gold lettering and 
purple design. A very colorful dj along
with colorful lamps throughout. A nice copy. (AB Bookman's Standards) =A0 
Offered for sale by Yesterday's Books at US$100.00

Neustadt,Dr.Egon.: The Lamps of Tiffany. ; NY:Neustadt Museum,1970., 
First edition.Cloth.F in F DJ., Fine Arts, Photography, and Architecture 
=A0 (UR#:2941)=A0 Offered for sale by New York
Online Bookfinder at US$100.00

This is a wonderful book. Anytime I am having motivation problems I flip 
through it. Soon my hands are itching to touch glass.

Karen Schroeder
Hummingbird Designs

On 7/8/98 9:38 PM Goldpaws said:

>I want to purchase  The lamps of Tiffany by Neustadt.
>So far the best price seems to be from Amazon.195.00
>Does anyone know of a better source?
>Thanks
>Goldpaws


Saying Windows 95 is equal to Macintosh is
like finding a potato that looks like Jesus and
believing you've witnessed the second coming.
-- Guy Kawasaki
Macintosh, It Just Works!

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 12:06:04 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Non Glass: thanks from Shakeel
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 02:22:17 +0800
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Albert

Thanks for both the mail, regarding the kiln and the lamp working. Marty of
Centre DeVerre mailed me information. Hope to add a kiln to my studio soon.
Saw Reggie Lim's name in the members list. A pleasant surprise. I get most
of my glass from him.

Are there any other members from Malaysia, Indonesia or Singapore that you
know. It would be good to know them if there are any.

Do you know of any place where I can catch some basics on lampworking and
paperweight.

Thanks
Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 12:36:57 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Soldering the box seams
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 01:56:43 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul10.95643.0>
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Friends

Tried the first 3-D object today. A vase. I was very unhappy with the seams.
The pieces in the panel give a nice delicate bead but the joints seem to
lose all the delicacy. It beace a very thick bead of solder. Moreover the
empty V shape space seems very hard to fill. Is there any other way to join
the panels and still get a delicate seam?

Mike, you seem to me an expert in boxes, any advise for the rookie?

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 13:07:17 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Lamps of Tiffany-Price
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 15:44:35 +0000
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> I bought a copy from a bookseller in New York via mail order for about 
> $100. I found it through the BiblioFind web site

Aw, I didn't think of used book dealers ... very good suggestion.

Albert
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 17:44:43 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Shakeel Abedi <shakeel@tm.net.my>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Soldering the box seams
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 20:14:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul9.16148.0>
References: <<1998Jul10.95643.0>>
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Shakeel Abedi wrote:
> 
> Friends
> 
> Tried the first 3-D object today. A vase. I was very unhappy with the seams.
> The pieces in the panel give a nice delicate bead but the joints seem to
> lose all the delicacy. It beace a very thick bead of solder. Moreover the
> empty V shape space seems very hard to fill. Is there any other way to join
> the panels and still get a delicate seam?
> 
> Mike, you seem to me an expert in boxes, any advise for the rookie?
> 
> Shakeel Abedi
> 104, Jalan Mersing
> 86000 Kluang
> Johor
> Malaysia
> Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
> shakeel@tm.net.my
> 
> ----
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well, you would need to angle the pieces (miter the edges), for a
tighter fit. that's really the monyl good way. it will make the preoject
a little weaker, but since it's vase it should'nt make a huge
difference. 

try using as thin a foil you can get away with. i use 3/16 foil... as
long as the seems are fat all the way around it should'nt be noticed, as
much. but primarily beveling the edges will be the only real way to go.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 19:19:37 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Soldering the box seams
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 18:59:11 -0700 (PDT)
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>
>Dear Shakeel,
>Althou you have ended this to our dear "Friend Mike" many have enjoyed your
chatting and may wish to jump in.
>I am one.... very interesting learning the difficulties of many miles.
>With your regards to the "v" shape, it's always been an ugly corner to me,
and usually detour from it. It's not really nescessary either, as Mike has
replied to. As far as I've seen it's an easy design feature that doesn't
allow for smaller cuts on the side pieces. (aligning for the side pieces to
fit correctly between the front and the back).
>Happy cutting from Canada,
>Smiles, Cindy
>
>
> 
>>Friends
>>
>>Tried the first 3-D object today. A vase. I was very unhappy with the seams.
>>The pieces in the panel give a nice delicate bead but the joints seem to
>>lose all the delicacy. It beace a very thick bead of solder. Moreover the
>>empty V shape space seems very hard to fill. Is there any other way to join
>>the panels and still get a delicate seam?
>>
>>Mike, you seem to me an expert in boxes, any advise for the rookie?
>>
>>Shakeel Abedi
>>104, Jalan Mersing
>>86000 Kluang
>>Johor
>>Malaysia
>>Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
>>shakeel@tm.net.my
>>
>>----
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>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Jul  9 20:19:49 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 18:12:52 PDT
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  Is it a band saw model( which cuts only in one direction), or a ring 
saw( diamond grit all the way around.  The ring saws are worth the 
money, but the band saws that cost a that much tend to not be as good 
because of the blade.  

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 10 04:04:54 1998
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Soldering the box seams
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 06:32:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul10.23240.0>
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Shakeel,

I'm pretty new to this, just a couple of years but I do a fair amount of =
kaleidoscopes and the corners are similar, a thick bead. I tin the edges =
and then instead of trying to lay the soulder down in one even flow, I =
kind of daub it on. I fill the iron with soulder (like a paint brush) =
and plop in on quickly. It has a chance to cool slightly while I'm =
filling the iron with the next daub. When I lay the next plop aside the =
last one, it males a nicedome shape, sometimes leaving a little =
indentation between each daub.=20

Hard to expain but the effect is very nice and the rather large soulder =
bead that looks like a nicely made fillet weld becomes part of the =
interest. Of course, like Mike says, I use the smallest foil size I can =
get away with so the dome kind of flows onto the tinned edges as well as =
fills the corner gap.

Linda Campbell

Shakeel said:
>>
>>Tried the first 3-D object today. A vase. I was very unhappy with the =
seams.
>>The pieces in the panel give a nice delicate bead but the joints seem =
to
>>lose all the delicacy. It beace a very thick bead of solder. Moreover =
the
>>empty V shape space seems very hard to fill. Is there any other way to =
join
>>the panels and still get a delicate seam?
>>
>>Mike, you seem to me an expert in boxes, any advise for the rookie?
>>
>>Shakeel Abedi
>>104, Jalan Mersing
>>86000 Kluang
>>Johor
>>Malaysia
>>Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
>>shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Fri Jul 10 07:46:10 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Soldering the box seams
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 10:02:12 -0400
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Message text written by "Shakeel Abedi"
>Tried the first 3-D object today. A vase. I was very unhappy with the
seams.
The pieces in the panel give a nice delicate bead but the joints seem to
lose all the delicacy. It beace a very thick bead of solder. Moreover the=

empty V shape space seems very hard to fill. Is there any other way to jo=
in
the panels and still get a delicate seam?<

You might want to invest in a "lamp" grinding bit.  This is a bit
which is beveled.  This way you grind an angel into the parts of
the piece where there is a joint.  This reduces the V shape space
needing to be filled with solder, resulting in a smaller and more
pleasing seam.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 10 08:12:12 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Soldering the box seams
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 10:20:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul10.62021.0>
References: <<1998Jul10.23240.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Shakeel,
> 
> I'm pretty new to this, just a couple of years but I do a fair amount of =
> kaleidoscopes and the corners are similar, a thick bead. I tin the edges =
> and then instead of trying to lay the soulder down in one even flow, I =
> kind of daub it on. I fill the iron with soulder (like a paint brush) =
> and plop in on quickly. It has a chance to cool slightly while I'm =
> filling the iron with the next daub. When I lay the next plop aside the =
> last one, it males a nicedome shape, sometimes leaving a little =
> indentation between each daub.=20
> 
> Hard to expain but the effect is very nice and the rather large soulder =
> bead that looks like a nicely made fillet weld becomes part of the =
> interest. Of course, like Mike says, I use the smallest foil size I can =
> get away with so the dome kind of flows onto the tinned edges as well as =
> fills the corner gap.
> 
> Linda Campbell
> 
> Shakeel said:
> >>
> >>Tried the first 3-D object today. A vase. I was very unhappy with the =
> seams.
> >>The pieces in the panel give a nice delicate bead but the joints seem =
> to
> >>lose all the delicacy. It beace a very thick bead of solder. Moreover =
> the
> >>empty V shape space seems very hard to fill. Is there any other way to =
> join
> >>the panels and still get a delicate seam?
> >>
> >>Mike, you seem to me an expert in boxes, any advise for the rookie?
> >>
> >>Shakeel Abedi
> >>104, Jalan Mersing
> >>86000 Kluang
> >>Johor
> >>Malaysia
> >>Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
> >>shakeel@tm.net.my
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


and of course the side seams are perfect for decorative soldering. which
is why you see alot of that on scopes. 

another method for hiding the seam is to put a little bit of solder in
the bottom of the V. just enough to keep it together. then use a clear
rod (like a laser scope rod), and use it to fill in the gap. or you can
use a bunch of gems (for the top anyway). the bottom, really does'nt
matter (providing you use feet of some kind, showing that it's the
bottom).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 10 17:34:51 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!LuvArtGlas
From: <LuvArtGlas@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Coca Cola lamp shade pattern
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 19:49:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul10.234932.0>
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Im not sure why this goes through sometimes and not at other times.. But
anyway I was asking if any one out there had any older coca-cola bottle
caps...
Hope this one doesnt get all garbled up in the translation

Suzan 
Fayetteville AR
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 10 18:05:49 1998
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Subject: Re: Coca Cola lamp shade pattern
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 20:37:42 EDT
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Got your message (twice) - just don't have any bottle caps!  Sorry.  Brenda
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  Having trouble with the decorative solder?...use a lower temp tip(600)  
because if its too hot, the solder will just melt down. Also use quick 
set solder, it is great because it sets quickly allowing you to move 
right along the line without worrying about melting the dot next to 
it....

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From owner-glass Fri Jul 10 21:51:14 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: right thickness for 14" stepping stone.
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 11:34:55 +0800
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Hi

What is the best thicknes for a 14 or 16 inch stepping stone?

Thanks

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 11 00:27:39 1998
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------B63D74D266BD923BFF0F86D7
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Hi Shakeel!
Hi Everybody!

I would advise anywhere from 1 1/2 inch to 2 1/2 inches thick. When I do
my stones the finished product is 2 1/2 inches thick. I purchased 1 mold
from Delphi glass and it's thickness is about 1 1/2 inches. I also seal
the stone with water sealer, ah yes, something else for you to think
about! By the way how did you solve your concrete problem there in
Malaysia? You may have discussed this already I can always check the
archives. I was wondering what your concrete elements are and have you
started experimenting with the stones yet. Fill us in!!

I was thinking of sending you a bag but for a couple hundred bucks in
shipping quickly changed my mind, good grief! I think all of us have
enjoyed your quest for knowledge and I sincerely hope you continue!

P.S. I enjoyed the topic of the week this week-any suggestions for next
week?

See ya,

Pam

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 11 08:55:23 1998
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: off topic:  Florida fires
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 11:35:52 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul11.153552.0>
Precedence: bulk

Here are the lastest numbers on the Flordia fires. Yes, they are still
burning.


Dianne 



   Fires By The Numbers

(As of 7/8/98)
Number of fires: 2,058
Number of evacuees: 120,000
Number in shelters: 8,300+
Toll: 100 injuries, 3 deaths (elderly people while being evacuated from
nursing homes)
Acreage lost: 483,000
Property damaged: 356 homes and structures
Damage estimate: $276 million (mostly timber)
Cost to fight fires: $116 million
 
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From owner-glass Sat Jul 11 11:01:31 1998
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From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: right thickness for 14" stepping stone.
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 10:29:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul11.32958.0>
References: <<1998Jul11.193455.0>>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

Concrete was designed to be poured a minumum of 4 inches.
But with stepping stones, 2 inches will do as long as you plant the
stone on 1 and 1/2 inches of clean sand.  The sand will diffuse the
weight and thus protect the stone.
Good luck
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 00:07:22 1998
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From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cats for profit
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 02:38:26, -0500
Message-ID: <199807120638.CAA12800@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

Recently I was looking around my studio and thinking of what was 
helping to bring in the rent money. The kilns and beveling equipment 
have long since paid for themselves and generate a constant stream of 
income. As I write the large kiln is firing bent glass lamp panels 
for a long term client who makes very fancy chandlers. A bevel order 
came in today that will provide an income that after expenses that is 
80% labor (skill) charge. 

Not a few smaller tools have proven to be good investments. The came 
bender (actualy the second one) has seen noble service as have a lot 
of other things. Then my cat Freeway looked up from his current 
favorite spot.

Freeway turned up ten years ago and lived in the attic for a few 
months before he was invited inside. What a moneymaker he has been. 
With two exceptions he has been most welcome to prospective clients. 
For years now he has greeted people that show up at the door. 
Oftentimes the first few minutes of conversation that we have is on 
the subject of cats. 

Having covered the common ground of cats it is time to move on to 
business. I find that I can communicate with people on business 
matters better when I know a little something about them and I am 
sure that my prospective clients feel the same way. Well, Freeway 
provides this ice breaking and I am sure that many commissions have 
come to me due to this. So I say, get a cat to raise your profit 
margins. Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*If they were not ment to be fleeced, then why were they created 
sheep?*
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 08:12:06 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re:  Cats for profit
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 10:33:56 EDT
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Bob D. purrs:

> For years now [Freeway] has greeted people that show up
> at the door. Oftentimes the first few minutes of
> conversation that we have is on the subject of cats. 
> 
> Having covered the common ground of cats it is time to
> move on to business. [...] get a cat to raise your profit
> margins.

Thanks for the early-morning chuckle!

Reminds me of a local used-record store that has 2 resident felines, a yellow
tabby and a black. The black one is in the habit of singling out a likely-
looking customer who's engrossed in flipping through the bins, then jumping up
on the bin and from there to the customer's shoulder and settling there like
the jaguar draped on Gunther Gebel-Williams in the old American Express card
commercial. He'll stay there until he's shooed off or until you go to the
checkout counter, at which point the cashier will say something like, "Don't
look now, but there's a cat on you." That seems to be the critter's signal
that the ride's over.... (The sign on the office door says "EMPLOYEES AND CATS
ONLY.")

There's something nice and friendly about having a cat in the workplace anyway
(assuming it's got enough sense and dignity to keep from jumping up on the
furniture and knocking things off, that gets expensive in a hurry!), even if
you don't have customers walking in. Before Christie had her shop, I spent a
couple of afternoons in her basement sitting at the foiler with a lap full of
yellow cat (she has 4 assorted ones; another one likes to walk in on you first
thing in the morning and flop down right in your face, as I found out recently
when we were in the midst of a rush job and I crashed over at her house one
night rather than drive 20 miles home on a motor scooter at 11 pm), and I
still miss the gray tortoise-shell my sweetie and I used to have who would
settle down (all 14 lbs of her) right in front of the computer monitor and
stay there all day (and oddly enough, didn't seem to mind being a "document
holder" when I propped up a stack of papers on her)!

OK, this has been a bit rambling and maybe off the subject, but what the hey,
it's Sunday! :-)


Sparks
suddenly wishing for another Furry Feline Mahatma <sigh>
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 13:57:12 1998
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From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: glass saw
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 10:38:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.53837.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am considering buying a glass saw, either band or ring saw. I see
replacement grommets offered with each. How ofter must these be
replaced?
 I'm told that cutting a streight line with a ring saw is difficult.
What has your experience been?
TIA
Nelda

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 14:55:44 1998
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From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, cpesonen@bcinternet.net
Subject: Re: Tightening kiln elements.
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:54:56, -0500
Message-ID: <199807122054.QAA13048@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>Quick question if you have the time, my kiln elements have 
stretched, some
hooks have disappeared. Is that normal and should I be fixing it? At 
the
moment nothing seems too serious, but am concerned. TIA. Cindy<<

Funny you should bring this subject up. Just yesterday I spend a few 
minutes tightening up my kiln elements. Seems to be necessary every 
couple of dozen firings. Being as mine are in the kiln lid it is 
important that they are not allowed to sag to much or they can break 
when hot. 

Making sure that the electric is off, I use a pair of needle nose 
pliers to compress the coils of the element. A little compression 
here and a little compression there and suddenly the element is taunt 
in the groove. Of course, used elements can be brittle and so care is 
necessary. Even so I have never broken an element by tightening with 
my trusty needle nose pliers. I use very few pins to hold the coil on 
place.

The drill is the same for side mounted elements but the necessity is 
much less. Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*If they were not ment to be fleeced, then why were they created 
sheep?*
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 15:12:03 1998
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From: <AlexG2@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Help with a stepping stone class
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 17:06:42 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.21642.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, everyone

Well, I opened my big mouth and I had some kids in our church do some small
stepping stones one Sunday.  There were nine kids and I used some 8" round
tinfoil pans which worked pretty well.  It only took me one nite in a hot
garage to pour them all.

Well, now I have got about 15 adults wanting to do the same thing!  But they
really want to do something larger.  None of them has had any experience with
glass and I want to keep the experience positive.  I also don't what to kill
myself and extend the class for more than two sessions.  I think cutting glass
is out of the question and a mosaic with small glass pieces would be more
appropriate.  Does anyone have any ideas for projects or patterns?

Thanks
Alex Gacic
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 16:39:03 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: ring saw...
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 15:21:34 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.222134.0>
Precedence: bulk

    Re:SAW... well the ring saw i use is hard to cut straight because it 
cuts so fast, but i dont ever use it for straight lines.....just use my 
cutter....

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 17:12:38 1998
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Subject: Re: Window Restoration
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:00:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.23040.0>
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Hi,

If the price is right (meaning real cheap), I can't think of a better way to
learn how to work with lead came. If you have had some experience with
cutting, soldering, etc. All that is needed is the guts to try to rework the
came. If the piece is cheap enough , the fear factor is diminished. If you
have to go further cause you break something, or twist something, well, good,
now you have more  to practice on.

I had done foil for a long time before learning to do lead, in just this way,
and I feel the experience was just great...just dove into it. ..If you redo
the cames however, remember, you have to stretch the lead first, a simple
proceedure, with a lead vise, pliers, and a little nerve.

Good luck

Richard
Glassics Inc.
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 17:52:32 1998
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From: <MD6868@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: New Glass Biz,etc.
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:24:31 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.232431.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to all of you who graciously responded to my reguest for help,
opinions, etc, regarding my new venture.

I have replied to some of you directly, so as not to take group time for a
personal need, however, I will share with the group. developments that I feel
will benefit the group, as I proceed. Am narrowing down site selection, and
meeting with first of comm'l brokers tomw. Am incorporating tomw as well (yes,
that too can be dome via internet) and am applying for sales tax permit as
well. the concensus of the comments I got advise a mix of glass, and supplies,
lessions, and commission work. I'll keep ypu all advised, and will submit a
bio to Mr. Kelly this week, without fail. Just finished a 10 day visit of
glass shops / studios in No. Ca. .. very helpful.
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 18:14:00 1998
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X-Path: 7cities.net!cpjaram
From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Pattern Book
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 05:04:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul11.23421.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone have any advice on pattern books?  I have collected about 12
orginal patterns that are unique and would probably be attractive to the
hobbyist market.  Several of my fellow glass-mates feel that I should try to
publish.  I don't have a clue.  Is it worth it to pursue?  Is there money is
pattern books?

So what do you guys think?
cj

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 18:26:03 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Tightening kiln elements.
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:52:17 -0700 (PDT)
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>Hi Bob, 
>Thanks for the quick answer:)
>This has been going on for awhile and now feel more at ease that I should
be attending to this quickly.
>Inside my fire brick are grooves that the element sits into. Checked it out
and think it could be difficult getting the wire in place (actually had one
wire that did not disappear, so I quickly tried it) But shall work on it
tomorrow.
>(Slumping some roses and a plate today.)
>One more question:
>What can I replace the wire with here at home, I have a big stock of copper
wire in all guages (SP), but think that won't work? Should it be steel?
>Thanks again, Cindy
>
>PS; twice now I've burnt my bangs (hair) having a peek inside, boy oh boy,
I had better stop that.
>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 18:37:28 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <Witchdoc3@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: cats
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 09:43:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.24340.0>
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I had a shop cat for 12+ years, used to sit on my warm light table, chase
rodents in my shop, investigate the un-spooling foil, and in general just be
around and in the way for my/her pleasure. Anywhere that I frequent that has
a cat will tend to bring me back, sometimes just to visit the cat. Dogs are
ok, but I have an affinity for and to cats.
Aloof (interpretation) ones will often come to me and stay to the surprise
of the owners (as if you can own a cat).
I do miss my cat and in moments of weakness muse over getting another one.
Had a trade(small lampshade) lined up for a Bengal, but at the last moment
decided not to go through with it.

just remembering, enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 18:52:03 1998
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From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: polishing agates
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 05:51:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul11.235151.0>
Precedence: bulk

Mike,  as a new bungi member, I have slowly been making my way through the
archives.  I had my brother cut about 10 lbs of stones for me with is tile
saw.  They came out very interesting and I am sure I will be able to find a
use for them.   In this archive you mention that you just bought a bevel max
and implied that you can use it to polish stones, could you please explain.
Thanks  cj


>From archives (mike's message):
i have a lapidary saw a 6" gemstone. it does'nt cut flat glass well it
tends to crack do to vibration. however it should be able to cut thicker
glass like dalle glass that 1" stuff. i was hoping to be able to cut
bottles on that thing, but apparently i can'nt. but i can cut rocks and
i just got the bevel max, so i should be able to polish my agates. BTW
you would'nt happen to have a catalog taht sells decent uncut or cut
agates would you? the only polished agates i found are at meuseums or
fleamarkets. and uncut's, once at a zinc mine.

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 19:54:19 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: shelf primer stuck to glass
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:08:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.12846.0>
Precedence: bulk

	Any suggestions on how to remove shelf primer that stuck to the
glass in the kiln?  Ugh.  Also, how do you know when to reapply shelf
primer.  The last time I used the kiln, everything was fine.  This time
everything stuck.  I've used the shelf paper.  It's really nice, but kind
of pricey, especially compared to primer.

Jerri (aka Scrub Scrub)

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 21:12:27 1998
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: "suzy@comcat.com" <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: cats
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 98 23:06:09 -0400
Message-ID: <199807130309.XAA13721@uz.ComCAT.COM>
Precedence: bulk

Howard wrote:
>Had a trade(small lampshade) lined up for a Bengal, but at the last moment
>decided not to go through with it.

Why not?
Life is short, why deny yourself the pleasure of a feline?
For a *small lampshade* for God's sake  - what a deal, I thought you were 
the King of Deals!
Suzanne

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 21:27:42 1998
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X-Path: one.net!kleeman
From: one.net!kleeman
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Pattern Book
Date: Sun Jul 12 20:34:33 1998
Message-ID: <19980713032311Z13416-22665+409@mail.one.net>
Precedence: bulk

hi 
if you persue this and come up with a hard copy of something, let me
know--i have a store front in cincinnati and will gladly buy a few from you
to resell in my studio

let us know
debbie taylor
taylor'd expressions
513-213-0082

----------
> From: Norman & Claudette Jaramillo <cpjaram@7cities.net>
> To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
> Subject: Pattern Book
> Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 7:04 AM
> 
> Does anyone have any advice on pattern books?  I have collected about 12
> orginal patterns that are unique and would probably be attractive to the
> hobbyist market.  Several of my fellow glass-mates feel that I should try
to
> publish.  I don't have a clue.  Is it worth it to pursue?  Is there money
is
> pattern books?
> 
> So what do you guys think?
> cj
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 21:41:36 1998
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bio #36 Mary Austin
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:48:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.16481.0>
Precedence: bulk

My name is Mary Austin. I live in Indiana.

I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years now. I'm legally blind and
thankfully work using a large magnifying light that was donated from where
my husband works. I love doing panels, windows and am looking forward to
doing stepping stones. I hope to do a pond this summer using the brick mold.
I appreciate any and all help I receive from all of you. I have a 23 yr. old
daughter stationed in England in the air force and was lucky enough to get
to travel there and actually see some of the work done in their churches.

My husband is a machinist and he helps me out by building my
cabinets( in which stained glass panels go) and supplying the brass rods for
my outside pieces. Best to all of you and for all your help.


Mary A.




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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 21:44:08 1998
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From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bio #35 Sue Prullage
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:41:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.16415.0>
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Well here I go.

I am a 41 year old married woman with two adult children. My husband
supports my habit, but doesn't really do it.  He did just built me a
beautiful work bench.  It is a wonder how great it is to create things in a
nice big space.  I work a regular day job as a pediatric nurse practitioner
in the Midwest.

Most of my stained glass time is in the evening or weekends.
I have always loved stained glass, but didn't know how to get into
making it.  One of my friends wanted me to help her pick out colors for a
stained glass window that she was going to commission.  I went to the shop
and fell in love.  Started taking glass the next week and haven't stop
since, that was ~ 4 years ago.  I have become very good friends with the
shop owner and now we travel together.  We both are considering buying kilns
(thus my question about what kind of kiln everyone had) and are going to the
hot glass horizon in October.  My friend has asked me to help her teach some
class in the fall.  I consider that a compliment.  I think of doing glass as
a tier, beginner, teacher and master.  Maybe someday I will be a master.  I
consider most everyone of the bungi group as masters.

My favorite stained glass work is doing panels and lamps.  Jewelry
boxes are still a challenge for me.  I love to draw my own designs.  I
have done several panels that are unique to my customer.
Well that is about it.

Thanks, Sue


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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 21:58:45 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pattern Book
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:53:25 +0000
Message-ID: <199807130318.XAA09546@vger.vgernet.net>
Precedence: bulk

> Does anyone have any advice on pattern books?  I have collected about 12
> orginal patterns that are unique and would probably be attractive to the
> hobbyist market.  Several of my fellow glass-mates feel that I should try to
> publish.  I don't have a clue.  Is it worth it to pursue?  Is there money is
> pattern books?

As a publisher (yes that, too) I'd have to say that since you've 
"collected" them, they're already copyrighted by those who created 
them to begin with, so you can't publish them without violating that 
copyright. Or do I misunderstand what you've said? Are they patterns 
you've created or patterns others have made that you collected?

Albert

Art in Architecture Press, Inc.
54 Cherry Street, North Adams MA 01247
(413) 663-5512   Fax: (413) 663-7167
http://www.aiap.com/ [Home Page]
http://www.aiap.com/amazon/ [2700+ Glass Books!]


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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 22:10:41 1998
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X-Path: webtv.net!Beadnik2
From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: shelf primer stuck to glass
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:03:06 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.2036.0>
Precedence: bulk

>Jerri wrote:
>
>Any suggestions on how to remove shelf primer
>that stuck to the glass in the kiln? Ugh. Also,
>how do you know when to reapply shelf primer.
>The last time I used the kiln, everything was
>fine. This time everything stuck. I've used the
>shelf paper. It's really nice, but kind of pricey,
>especially compared to primer. 
>Jerri (aka Scrub Scrub)

Hotline makes a product called "Wash-Away".  Contains glycolic, sulfamic
& citric acids.  Instructions say to use full strength on the residue or
on a metal scouring pad.  I've used this product and it works well.

Ed Hoy's carries it... if you do not have a wholesale account with them,
they will direct you to a dealer in your area.

Hope this helps!

Joan

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 12 23:18:17 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "suzy@comcat.com" <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: PASS no judgement!!!!! 
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:28:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.152847.0>
Precedence: bulk

Not the cost and at this stage of my life I can afford most pleasures I
desire, but after deep soul searching...we could not justify another
cat...NEW Stickley furniture,
new custom made upholstered couch, Morris chair, white carpeting and so
forth. Also do not want to de-claw a cat either....

Also we hope to be traveling in 2 years and not fair to leave a cat home
alone.

It was a tough decision not to do it. I borrowed a neighbors Bengal for a
while just to have a cat around, and after being cat less it is nice to
leave doors open and not worry about E's allergies due to dander and cat
hair.

Still miss the felines, however and I sometimes cat sit for friends...





weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 00:27:00 1998
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X-Path: Sprintmail.com!MollysGlass
From: Molly Keys <MollysGlass@sprintmail.com>
To: BOB DUCHESNEAU <YWAH36A@prodigy.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cats for profit
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:27:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.172711.0>
References: <<199807120638.CAA12800@mime3.prodigy.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Bob,
I agree with you on the subject of cats.  I have a 17 year old cat named
Samantha and she has spent many a day and night in my studio with me.
She has been the subject for many of my stained glass windows and they do
not stay in the inventory very long.  She is black and white and
currently asleep under my feet in my computer closet as I type this.
Just thought I'd add my 2 cents.
Molly Keys

BOB DUCHESNEAU wrote:

> Recently I was looking around my studio and thinking of what was
> helping to bring in the rent money. The kilns and beveling equipment
> have long since paid for themselves and generate a constant stream of
> income. As I write the large kiln is firing bent glass lamp panels
> for a long term client who makes very fancy chandlers. A bevel order
> came in today that will provide an income that after expenses that is
> 80% labor (skill) charge.
>
> Not a few smaller tools have proven to be good investments. The came
> bender (actualy the second one) has seen noble service as have a lot
> of other things. Then my cat Freeway looked up from his current
> favorite spot.
>
> Freeway turned up ten years ago and lived in the attic for a few
> months before he was invited inside. What a moneymaker he has been.
> With two exceptions he has been most welcome to prospective clients.
> For years now he has greeted people that show up at the door.
> Oftentimes the first few minutes of conversation that we have is on
> the subject of cats.
>
> Having covered the common ground of cats it is time to move on to
> business. I find that I can communicate with people on business
> matters better when I know a little something about them and I am
> sure that my prospective clients feel the same way. Well, Freeway
> provides this ice breaking and I am sure that many commissions have
> come to me due to this. So I say, get a cat to raise your profit
> margins. Bob
>
> ____
> Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026
> *If they were not ment to be fleeced, then why were they created
> sheep?*
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 06:17:22 1998
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X-Path: tm.net.my!shakeel
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: ring saw...
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 20:32:32 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.43232.0>
Precedence: bulk

I would second that. Taurus II Ring saw anytime. :) But remember that is the
only saw I have tried.

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my
-----Original Message-----
From: scott floyd <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 7:58 AM
Subject: RE: ring saw...


>    Re:SAW... well the ring saw i use is hard to cut straight because it
>cuts so fast, but i dont ever use it for straight lines.....just use my
>cutter....
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 07:50:53 1998
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X-Path: 7cities.net!cpjaram
From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: polishing rocks for glass projects
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 20:00:01 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.1401.0>
Precedence: bulk

Mike,  as a new bungi member, I have slowly been making my way through the
archives.  I had my brother cut about 10 lbs of stones for me with is tile
saw.  They came out very interesting and I am sure I will be able to find a
use for them.   In this archive you mention that you just bought a bevel max
and implied that you can use it to polish stones, could you please explain.
Thanks  cj

>From archives (mike's message):
i have a lapidary saw a 6" gemstone. it does'nt cut flat glass well it
tends to crack do to vibration. however it should be able to cut thicker
glass like dalle glass that 1" stuff. i was hoping to be able to cut
bottles on that thing, but apparently i can'nt. but i can cut rocks and
i just got the bevel max, so i should be able to polish my agates. BTW
you would'nt happen to have a catalog taht sells decent uncut or cut
agates would you? the only polished agates i found are at meuseums or
fleamarkets. and uncut's, once at a zinc mine.


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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 08:19:45 1998
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From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: <GLass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: PATTERN BOOKS
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:52:19 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul12.135219.0>
Precedence: bulk

Albert, yes I have created these patterns myself.  I can understand where
the choice of "collected" was confusing.  I mean they all have a common
presentation or theme...something like you would see in a pattern book.
They are unique in that there are no pattern books for this area, but I do
believe they would make great hobbiest patterns.  Easy to medium difficulty.

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 08:36:04 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Help with a stepping stone class
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:05:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul13.6511.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:AlexG2@aol.com
>Does anyone have any ideas for projects or patterns?<

A sun is a very good pattern to do, either with pre-cut
pieces (simple circle and some triangles) or as a free-form
using scrap glass pieces.

Also (more difficult) a moon 'n' stars pattern is good.  So
is an abstract wave pattern.  You might also want to
use scrap mirror pieces.  These add a delightful touch of
whimsy to a piece.

Good luck.
Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 13:46:57 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: jerri m Roey <jroey@juno.com>
Subject: Re: shelf primer stuck to glass
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 19:05:13 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Jul13.20513.0>
References: <<1998Jul12.12846.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1998Jul12.12846.0@?>, jerri m Roey <jroey@juno.com> writes
>       Any suggestions on how to remove shelf primer that stuck to the
>glass in the kiln?  Ugh.  
Others will (I hope) give suggestions I can use too!
>Also, how do you know when to reapply shelf
>primer.  The last time I used the kiln, everything was fine.  This time
>everything stuck.  
Some would replace ths primer every time.  I do this for batt wash, but
for the proprietary primers, I have found it safe to fuse no more than 3
times, although painting and slumping could go to 6 firings.

But another really inexpensive separater is whiting.  Spread a layer,
say a quarter of an inch thick with a flour sifter or similar (to ensure
you have no big lumps), then smooth with a piece of glass, or merely
push(or settle) the piece to be fused into the whiting. Works really
well, especially if you have fired the kiln to about 450 degrees
fahrenheit to remove any moisture.

steve
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 14:14:19 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Norman & Claudette Jaramillo <cpjaram@7cities.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: polishing agates
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:51:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul13.11510.0>
References: <<1998Jul11.235151.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Norman & Claudette Jaramillo wrote:
> 
> Mike,  as a new bungi member, I have slowly been making my way through the
> archives.  I had my brother cut about 10 lbs of stones for me with is tile
> saw.  They came out very interesting and I am sure I will be able to find a
> use for them.   In this archive you mention that you just bought a bevel max
> and implied that you can use it to polish stones, could you please explain.
> Thanks  cj
> 
> >From archives (mike's message):
> i have a lapidary saw a 6" gemstone. it does'nt cut flat glass well it
> tends to crack do to vibration. however it should be able to cut thicker
> glass like dalle glass that 1" stuff. i was hoping to be able to cut
> bottles on that thing, but apparently i can'nt. but i can cut rocks and
> i just got the bevel max, so i should be able to polish my agates. BTW
> you would'nt happen to have a catalog taht sells decent uncut or cut
> agates would you? the only polished agates i found are at meuseums or
> fleamarkets. and uncut's, once at a zinc mine.
> 
> ----
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when i first got the saw (actually before), i asked the people who made
it, "can it polish agates?" they said yes, and i bought it. problem is
you really can't, you can level it off with the diamond wheel, but not
much else. the paper discs tend to rip really easily and you can't get a
good hold on the stone. 

as far as i can tell the bevel max can't polish agates (unless, maybe,
just maybe, there very small.)

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 14:17:40 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass saw
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:54:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul13.11548.0>
References: <<1998Jul12.53837.0>>
Precedence: bulk

fibers wrote:
> 
> I am considering buying a glass saw, either band or ring saw. I see
> replacement grommets offered with each. How ofter must these be
> replaced?
>  I'm told that cutting a streight line with a ring saw is difficult.
> What has your experience been?
> TIA
> Nelda
> 
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cutting a straight line on any kind of bandsaw will be difficult. a
guide would be need for both. the ringsaw people say that the grommets
will wear out pretty fast, with a new blade. when the blade is very
sharp and new. once the blade "smooths" out a bit, the grommets should
wear longer. mine are still holding up pretty well... 

in anycase, you can cut in any direction with the ringsaw, and you have
one of the larges working areas.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 14:40:09 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: PATTERN BOOKS
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:05:39 +0000
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> Albert, yes I have created these patterns myself.  I can understand where
> the choice of "collected" was confusing. 

Yes, I was confused. Thanks for the clarification. And good luck with 
the book project!

Albert
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 13 17:16:11 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Bio #36 Mary Austin
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 09:53:47 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807131653.JAA20262@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Mary,
I was truely touched by your bio.
God bless you!
Smiles, Cindy


>
>My name is Mary Austin. I live in Indiana.
>
>I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years now. I'm legally blind and
>thankfully work using a large magnifying light that was donated from where
>my husband works. I love doing panels, windows and am looking forward to
>doing stepping stones. I hope to do a pond this summer using the brick mold.
>I appreciate any and all help I receive from all of you. I have a 23 yr. old
>daughter stationed in England in the air force and was lucky enough to get
>to travel there and actually see some of the work done in their churches.
>
>My husband is a machinist and he helps me out by building my
>cabinets( in which stained glass panels go) and supplying the brass rods for
>my outside pieces. Best to all of you and for all your help.
>
>
>Mary A.
>
>
>
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 01:34:25 1998
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X-Path: Citadel.edu!HILLEKER
From: HILLEKER@Citadel.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Subject: cut agates
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 11:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Jul13.7231.0>
Precedence: bulk

>i just got the bevel max, so i should be able to polish my agates. BTW
>you would'nt happen to have a catalog taht sells decent uncut or cut
>agates would you? the only polished agates i found are at meuseums or
>fleamarkets. and uncut's, once at a zinc mine.

Whitmore-Durgin used to sell cut and polished agates at a good price.
I don't know if they still do, I haven't gotten their catalog for a 
while. 

Russ
hilleker@citadel.edu
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 04:38:07 1998
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From: <BMarhon@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: cut agates
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 07:08:39 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.11839.0>
Precedence: bulk

 
 >i just got the bevel max, so i should be able to polish my agates. BTW
 >you would'nt happen to have a catalog taht sells decent uncut or cut
 >agates would you? the only polished agates i found are at meuseums or
 >fleamarkets. and uncut's, once at a zinc mine. >>

I have a catalog from Fire Mountain Gems that has a page of agate cabachons.
They have blue agate, lace agate, botswana, crazy lace, green, indian mixed
and tree agates.  Sizes run from 6 x 4 mm up to 40 x 30 mm.

You can order a catlog on-line at firemtn.com or toll free at 800-292-3473.
For uncut try Olympic Mountain Gems on-line at omgems.com.
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 05:41:07 1998
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X-Path: hotmail.com!marycooper
From: "Mary Cooper" <marycooper@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Catalog Sales
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 14:09:11 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul10.21911.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all-
Does anyone have any experience getting their work in catalogs?
I have designed a couple of pieces that I know would do well in 
specialty catalogs..

I have done a few trunk shows (I do glass jewlery and small "cold glass" 
work)I have sold many pieces in gallerys and  artsy type stores-- I have 
not done any art fairs, but I am very nervous (yet excited) about moving 
on to bigger and bettter..
Someone (Christie?) posted awhile back about doing a wholesale show and 
that really got me excited, I would love the oppurtunity, but am new to 
"promoting" myself as a serious artist.
I guess its time to make the leap, and not look back.

Any feedback would be delightful!

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 07:46:38 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: cut agates
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 10:24:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.62410.0>
References: <<1998Jul13.7231.0>>
Precedence: bulk

HILLEKER@Citadel.edu wrote:
> 
> >i just got the bevel max, so i should be able to polish my agates. BTW
> >you would'nt happen to have a catalog taht sells decent uncut or cut
> >agates would you? the only polished agates i found are at meuseums or
> >fleamarkets. and uncut's, once at a zinc mine.
> 
> Whitmore-Durgin used to sell cut and polished agates at a good price.
> I don't know if they still do, I haven't gotten their catalog for a
> while.
> 
> Russ
> hilleker@citadel.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it's still in all their catalogs. but there always either sold out, or
they don't exist. you would think they would at least cross it out as a
choice... 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 09:51:48 1998
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From: <StndGlass1@aol.com>
To: morn@nac.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: cut agates
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 12:08:58 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.16858.0>
Precedence: bulk

We do have around 400 sliced agates in stock, unfortunately while they are all
attractive, they are separated by size and not by color.  We have small,
medium and large, and they are natural, blue, purple and pink ( I'm pretty
sure that is what is left).  If you are interested, let me know and I'll get
you more specific information.

Jenna Meredith-Sanders
Meredith Stained Glass
www.meredithglass.com
stnglass@meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 10:16:42 1998
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From: Dave & Lynn Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Vinyl Cutters
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 09:17:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.21724.0>
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

We are about to take the plunge and purchase a vinyl cutter for our
shop.  It will be a 24" one since that's the max size the mini-passer
takes, and second of all we cannot afford anything larger.  Anyone have
any opinions on the various makes out there?

TIA

Dave

--
____________________

Dave & Lynn Loda
Art Glass of Wenatchee
http://www.artglassw.com
Stained Glass Gifts & Supplies


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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 10:30:52 1998
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From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Catalog Sales
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 08:15:13 -0700
Message-ID: <199807141515.IAA07007@norm.island.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mary,

I don't have experience in getting into catalogues, but my guess is it's not
that different than getting into juried shows.  First, I'd target a catalog
(sounds like you've already done that), phone them, talk to their head buyer
and get info...do they jury continually, or for specific seasonal
catalogs...what do they look for...quality, quantity, price points

Send them exactly what they ask for.  My guess is that it's also important
to demonstrate that you are organized enough to produce the item(s) chosen
in quantity, so make sure you include that in your written promo stuff that
you would send with your samples.

Good luck,



>Hi all-
>Does anyone have any experience getting their work in catalogs?
>I have designed a couple of pieces that I know would do well in 
>specialty catalogs..
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 11:29:53 1998
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X-Path: aracnet.net!bigcreek
From: Wayne Parks <bigcreek@aracnet.net>
To: Dave & Lynn Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-UNICODE-2-0-UTF-7
Subject: Re: Vinyl Cutters
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:01:34 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.10134.0>
References: <<1998Jul14.21724.0>>
Organization: Big Creek Studio
Precedence: bulk

Dave:
Have been using a Vinyl cutter for several years to cut resist for
abrasive etching. I am using a Mimaki "My Cut" that I chose after a lot
of research into various cutters. For me width of cut was not as
important as the ability to cut very small letters. The Mimaki was the
clear winner in this category cutting letters as small as .125". The
Roland Camm-1, the other cutter that even came close to the Mimaki, was
the runner up.
One consideration when choosing size, other than the initial capital
cost, is the cost of vinyl. Of course all programs offer the ability to
tile, so width of cut is not that important. If you have any further
questions please contact me directly.

Wayne Parks
Big Creek Studio
bigcreek@aracnet.net

To bring the dead to life
Is no great magic.
Few are wholly dead:
Blow on a dead mans embers
And a live flame will start.
                      Robert Graves
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 12:30:57 1998
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From: <StndGlass1@aol.com>
To: balloch@netbridge.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: cut agates
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 15:12:30 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.191230.0>
Precedence: bulk

Okay.. here goes pricing:

Small slices of agate range from 1.5" to 2" wide and are $1.00 each.
Medium slices of agate range from 2.5" to 3" wide and are $1.75 each.
Large slices of agate range from 3.5" to 5" wide and are $2.50 each.

Again, the colors we have in stock currently are teal, blue, pink (more like
fuschia), purple and natural (varying shades of brown).

Jenna Meredith-Sanders
Meredith Stained Glass
www.meredithglass.com
stnglass@meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 14 13:31:35 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Catalog Sales
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:46:29 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul14.104629.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Mary Cooper"
>Hi all-
Does anyone have any experience getting their work in catalogs?
I have designed a couple of pieces that I know would do well in =

specialty catalogs..

I have done a few trunk shows (I do glass jewlery and small "cold glass" =

work)I have sold many pieces in gallerys and  artsy type stores-- I have =

not done any art fairs, but I am very nervous (yet excited) about moving =

on to bigger and bettter..
Someone (Christie?) posted awhile back about doing a wholesale show and =

that really got me excited, I would love the oppurtunity, but am new to =

"promoting" myself as a serious artist.
I guess its time to make the leap, and not look back.

Any feedback would be delightful!<

Christie here.  If you want to hit the catalog people, you need to
do the Gift Shows.  These are product shows only open to gallery,
museum, catalog, and retail store owners.  There are a number of
shows which specifically target catalog owners.  These include most
of the shows promoted by Fairchild Urban Expositions.  These
include the Philadelphia Gift Show, the Columbus (Ohio) Gift Show,
and the Chicago Gift Show.  For more information, contact:

Fairchild Urban Exposition
5500 Interstate North Parkway, Suite 520
Atlanta, GA 30328
Karin Schwab 1-800-318-2238 (she's in charge of the August Columbus show)=

email: FUE@fairchildpub.com

I am doing the August Columbus Gift show.  This will be my second
wholesale show, and the first gift show.

There are major differences between a Gift Show and a juried Hand-Made
Wholesale Show, such as the Rosen Groups' Buyer's Market of
American Craft.  Gift shows include imported items as well
as hand-crafted goods.  Gift shows are not necessarily juried.  Most time=
s
they just let in companies until they have every booth space filled.
Gift shows do not necessarily have limits on the number of
companies allowed in per craft category (i.e. only 100 potters, 100
glass craftspeople, 100 fabric artists, etc.).  In this Columbus Gift
show, I was allowed in without sending in any photos of my
work, and was told they did not have specific limits for the number
of glass artists in the show.  However, there was someone from this
show who attended the other wholesale show I did (Market Square's
Traditional American Craft show), and they did see my work and
ask me if I would be interested in doing the Columbus show.  So
I'm not clear about the jurying that actually goes on with Gift
shows.  I do know that the Rosen Group's shows are highly juried,
only allow in hand-made in American goods, and require that the
artist actually run the booth.  Gift shows allow manufacturer's
representatives to run the booth.

So, know something about the show before you go appying to them.
I attended wholesale shows for 2 years as a buyer prior to becoming a
supplier.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 01:05:36 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Making Bevels
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 15:53:05 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.23535.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Guys
Been folowing the Bevel chat. Something regarding the bevel came up
yesterday and I had to jump into the discussion.

A friend was going to Singapore yesterday so I asked him to get me eight
pieces of 1" x 4" corner bevels. Stupid me, I did not get the price earlier
and did not tell my friend (who knows nothing about stained glass) not to
buy if too expensive.

Anyway, my good brought me the bevels, and a bill of about US$ 40.00 (at
current exchange rates) I dont know if bevels are that expensive, but
certainly
it has bloated my cost for the panel. I could have used some other textured
glass for the same
effect at much lower cost.

I don't think that I have been had, for the supplier (who is also IGGA
member- Reggie Lim from Singapore) has laways given me a good price.

The point of my story is: Can we make our own bevels? How. Could someone
give a brief outline of the procedure? Or suggest a book, or send a
photocopy of any article from any book or magazine?

PS. What's the cost of 1"x4" corner bevel in U.S. ?

Thanks a million.

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 01:35:36 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: SGAA  Reference & Technical  Manual
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 15:58:18 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.235818.0>
Precedence: bulk

Been to the SGAA Home page, and read about the SGAA Reference & Technical
manual.

Has anyone read it? A review and recommendations would profit many, I am
sure.

Thanks

Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 05:07:29 1998
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X-Path: ezl.com!stepsue
From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: kiln molds
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 06:30:32 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.03032.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am new into kiln production.  I was wondering if everyone that has a
kiln buys premade molds or do they improvise.  I would love to hear
about different things that can be used as potential molds.  I also was
wondering about kiln painting.  I haven't bought any paints yet and I
was unsure which brand is best.  Any suggestions?  Thanks, Sue
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 06:11:50 1998
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: kiln molds
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:57:01 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.4571.0>
Precedence: bulk

I would be interested too. In fact buying a kiln has been the biggest
temptation these days.
I would like to even add to Sue's request.
What would be the basic fused glass (kiln) kit.

Could some one give a list of Starter Kit for Kiln work. Much like Mike's
Stained Glass Starter kit at his wonderful Home Page.

Just Started Home Page: Visit if you have nothing else to do.
But docome back, things certainly will change.
Planning on adding photos of myself, studio and some works.
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

-----Original Message-----
From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 8:24 PM
Subject: kiln molds


>I am new into kiln production.  I was wondering if everyone that has a
>kiln buys premade molds or do they improvise.  I would love to hear
>about different things that can be used as potential molds.  I also was
>wondering about kiln painting.  I haven't bought any paints yet and I
>was unsure which brand is best.  Any suggestions?  Thanks, Sue
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 08:24:18 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Making Bevels
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:19:30 +0000
Message-ID: <199807151247.IAA05860@vger.vgernet.net>
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> The point of my story is: Can we make our own bevels? How. Could someone
> give a brief outline of the procedure? Or suggest a book, or send a
> photocopy of any article from any book or magazine?

There's a book search tool on the Guild's home page at
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
Just type in whatever you're looking for and Amazon.com lists what's 
available. If you order anything, the Guild gets a commission of 5%. 
If you go directly to Amazon.com and do the same thing, the Guild 
gets nothing. <s>

Oh, I just tried it and turned up Vincent Fox's book ... which is out 
of print. Nothing else around, I guess. No, there's "How to Work in 
Beveled Glass" by Seymour and Anita Isenberg, which I found in the 
Guild's pages at
http://www.aiap.com/amazon/amazon29.htm
but it's also unavailable.

Okay, then. You could try the used book sellers, starting with 
whitehouse-books.com
which specializes in glass books.

But yes, you can make your own bevels. There are certainly a number 
of manufacturers of beveling equipment, both serious-sized and hobby 
level. Some of them are:

Covington Engineering Corporation, 715 West Colton Avenue,
                      PO Box 35, Redlands CA 92373. Phone: (909)
                      793-6636. Fx: (909) 793-7641.

Denver Glass Machinery, 2800 S. Shoshone Street,
                      Englewood CO 80110. Phone: (303) 781-0980. (303)
                      781-0982. Fx: (303) 781-9067. 

see also Denver's discount to Guild members at
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/suppsupp.htm

Diamond Tech International, 4002 W. State Street, Tampa FL
                      33609. Phone: (813) 872-4404. (800) 937-9593.
                      Fx: (813) 872-6288. E-mail: dti@digital.net Web
                      site: http://www.artglassworld.com/supply/dti 

Gemstone Equipment Manufacturing Co., 750 Easy Street,
                      Simi Valley CA 93065. Phone: (805) 527-6990.
                      (800) 235-3375. Fx: (805) 526-7603. 

Glastar, 20721 Marilla Street, Chatsworth CA 91311. Phone:
                      (813) 341-0301. (800) 423-5635. Fx:
                      (818)998-2078. 

and so on. Some of them might even have books, manuals, guides, etc.

Albert

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 09:53:46 1998
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X-Path: intel.com!lynice.spangler
From: "Spangler, Lynice" <lynice.spangler@intel.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Making Bevels
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 09:36:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.23617.0>
Precedence: bulk

There are some glass grinders that come with attachment kits used to make
bevels.  The kit usually contains a sort of mini lap wheel.  The one I have
is the Diamond Max/Bevel Max (from Diamond Tech as mentioned in Albert's
mail).  I have practiced some on it, but I have earned a new respect for
those who make bevels.  I'm sure the professionals have superior equipment,
but making bevels is not easy.  I have not used any bevels I've made in a
project.  I have not yet decided if that's where I want to spend my precious
glass hours because it takes (me anyway) a lot of time.

L. Spangler

On Wednesday, July 15, 1998 12:20 AM, Albert Lewis [SMTP:alewis@vgernet.net]
wrote:
> 
> > The point of my story is: Can we make our own bevels? How. Could someone
> > give a brief outline of the procedure? Or suggest a book, or send a
> > photocopy of any article from any book or magazine?
> 
> There's a book search tool on the Guild's home page at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
> Just type in whatever you're looking for and Amazon.com lists what's 
> available. If you order anything, the Guild gets a commission of 5%. 
> If you go directly to Amazon.com and do the same thing, the Guild 
> gets nothing. <s>
> 
> Oh, I just tried it and turned up Vincent Fox's book ... which is out 
> of print. Nothing else around, I guess. No, there's "How to Work in 
> Beveled Glass" by Seymour and Anita Isenberg, which I found in the 
> Guild's pages at
> http://www.aiap.com/amazon/amazon29.htm
> but it's also unavailable.
> 
> Okay, then. You could try the used book sellers, starting with 
> whitehouse-books.com
> which specializes in glass books.
> 
> But yes, you can make your own bevels. There are certainly a number 
> of manufacturers of beveling equipment, both serious-sized and hobby 
> level. Some of them are:
> 
> Covington Engineering Corporation, 715 West Colton Avenue,
>                       PO Box 35, Redlands CA 92373. Phone: (909)
>                       793-6636. Fx: (909) 793-7641.
> 
> Denver Glass Machinery, 2800 S. Shoshone Street,
>                       Englewood CO 80110. Phone: (303) 781-0980. (303)
>                       781-0982. Fx: (303) 781-9067. 
> 
> see also Denver's discount to Guild members at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/suppsupp.htm
> 
> Diamond Tech International, 4002 W. State Street, Tampa FL
>                       33609. Phone: (813) 872-4404. (800) 937-9593.
>                       Fx: (813) 872-6288. E-mail: dti@digital.net Web
>                       site: http://www.artglassworld.com/supply/dti 
> 
> Gemstone Equipment Manufacturing Co., 750 Easy Street,
>                       Simi Valley CA 93065. Phone: (805) 527-6990.
>                       (800) 235-3375. Fx: (805) 526-7603. 
> 
> Glastar, 20721 Marilla Street, Chatsworth CA 91311. Phone:
>                       (813) 341-0301. (800) 423-5635. Fx:
>                       (818)998-2078. 
> 
> and so on. Some of them might even have books, manuals, guides, etc.
> 
> Albert
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 10:23:35 1998
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From: "Spangler, Lynice" <lynice.spangler@intel.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: kiln molds
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 09:46:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.24620.0>
Precedence: bulk

In answer to the mold question,  stainless steel (bowls, plates, etc.) work
well for slumping *over*.  I have acquired some interesting pieces from
Goodwill for this purpose (not sure if they have Goodwill in India, but it's
basically a second-hand store).

For slumping *in*, I make molds using a mixture of a very fine vermiculite
and fondu cement and water.  I don't have the actual bags in front of me so
I don't have product names, but I could only find this stuff at a local
contractor's building supply (not Home Depot).  We needed a business license
to shop there.  After mixing this stuff together to a consistency of mud, I
slap it on a form (like an upside down bowl) and pat it out to make sure
most air bubbles are out.  Let is dry for 24 hours.  Bake it in the oven at
250F for 12 hours.  Kiln wash the inside, and fire to 1000.  It may take a
few iterations of sanding, kiln washing, firing to get it to the texture
(smoothness) you want.

There's also a Boyce Lundstrom book on the subject.  It's the 3rd in his
fusing series.

On Wednesday, July 15, 1998 5:57 AM, Shakeel Abedi [SMTP:shakeel@tm.net.my]
wrote:
> I would be interested too. In fact buying a kiln has been the biggest
> temptation these days.
> I would like to even add to Sue's request.
> What would be the basic fused glass (kiln) kit.
> 
> Could some one give a list of Starter Kit for Kiln work. Much like Mike's
> Stained Glass Starter kit at his wonderful Home Page.
> 
> Just Started Home Page: Visit if you have nothing else to do.
> But docome back, things certainly will change.
> Planning on adding photos of myself, studio and some works.
> http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
> Shakeel Abedi
> 104, Jalan Mersing
> 86000 Kluang
> Johor
> Malaysia
> Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
> shakeel@tm.net.my
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
> Date: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 8:24 PM
> Subject: kiln molds
> 
> 
> >I am new into kiln production.  I was wondering if everyone that has a
> >kiln buys premade molds or do they improvise.  I would love to hear
> >about different things that can be used as potential molds.  I also was
> >wondering about kiln painting.  I haven't bought any paints yet and I
> >was unsure which brand is best.  Any suggestions?  Thanks, Sue
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 10:51:08 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, shakeel@tm.net.my
Subject: Making Bevels
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 13:25:23, -0500
Message-ID: <199807151725.NAA17610@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>The point of my story is: Can we make our own bevels? How. Could 
someone
give a brief outline of the procedure? Or suggest a book, or send a
photocopy of any article from any book or magazine?

PS. What's the cost of 1"x4" corner bevel in U.S. ?<<

Get Vincent Fox's book *Glass Beveling* for the best I know of 
rundown on glass beveling. Denver Glass Machinery has reprinted it. 
It is also available (original edition) from Hollander LA if you have 
a wholesale account there.

The subject of glass beveling is a big one. Even if you never get 
into beveling Fox's book will make you a lot smarter and allow you to 
use beveled glass to greater advantage.

I assume you are referring to 1" X 4" mitered corner bevels. They 
retail for about  US$2.00  in the US and are mostly made in Taiwan.

I recommend you do not buy into a small beveling outfit until and 
unless you can try one out and prove to yourself that it will 
actually do what it is advertised to do and what you want to do.

Bob,who needs to get a bevel project out NOW.

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*If they were not ment to be fleeced, then why were they created 
sheep?*
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 12:53:26 1998
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X-Path: hotmail.com!marycooper
From: "Mary Cooper" <marycooper@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: kiln molds
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 12:16:53 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.191653.0>
Precedence: bulk

Look carefully at the "Floral Former" a free-form mold for slumping into 
a vase shape. Its actually very similar to the tin you get when you 
order a milkshake.
And actually  I have used that tin, a stainless vessel, sanded down then 
coated in kiln wash. Works great. (got mine free from the local ice 
cream shop, the were gonna toss it because of a dent in the lip that 
wouldnt allow it to  fit on their blender)        

Try a local ceramics supplier, they offer greenware that can be used as 
molds too-I have several shallow bowls that I use. They don't stand a 
lot of firing, but hey-they're cheap. I "prefire" any greenware to get 
the  last bits of moisture out that may be in it   from the slip. 
Allways coat with several layers of kilnwash and  let dry thourougly, 
then sand  LIGHTLY. Don't breathe this stuff in.

Fiber Blanket can be fun and inventive, too.

Have Fun!

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 16:29:49 1998
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X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Non-s.g.     Thanks
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 00:12:22 +0000
Message-ID: <199807152315.AAA14855@saturn.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

...for what it's worth... I am back in UK from Sweden.....
I have about 130 personal  off-group messages from you all.
All containing affection and support.
Will reply to them all ..... one-by-one.....
There was just not ONE single "cyber-cafe" in sight for 100's of 
miles....
Thank you ALL so much!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK ( the latter - who was rather "cheesed off")


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 16:59:30 1998
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X-Path: hotmail.com!mrsdesigns
From: "Michele Spruill" <mrsdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: gift shows etc.
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 10:27:17 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.172717.0>
Precedence: bulk

I read with interest Mary's message yesterday about catalog sales.  
Christie brought up some good thoughts about the Wholesale and Gift 
shows.  I have been playing in some craft fairs lately and had read 
about the gift shows in a directory of shows.
 
I want to attend The Philadelphia Gift Show to look around, and there is 
one in York,PA as well.  I agree one should know about a show before 
participating.  What do the promotors require for identification to be 
admitted as a buyer to these kind of shows?

Michele


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From owner-glass Wed Jul 15 18:31:46 1998
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X-Path: 7cities.net!cpjaram
From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Kiln work
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:28:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.12821.0>
Precedence: bulk

Also, if you don't care how long a mold lasts.  I did a project that
required about 50-60 leaves.  I made the molds from plaster of paris...just
molding it with my hands.  The largest piece was 3" in diameter.  Once
fired, the plaster does break apart, but since I wanted to form the leaves
individually, this worked well for me.

I have since then purchased refractory plaster.  I was told it would last
for multiple firings, it doesn't dry as fast as plaster of paris, so you can
work with it.  However, because I am not pouring my molds, but forming them
with my hands, the refractory plaster also cracks after one firing, but not
as much as plaster of paris.  Also I can cut out forms from many different
materials such as stryrofoam, and then build the mold from a starting point.

I also have purchased greenware from a local ceramic store.  It is amazing
the shapes and ideas that will come from looking at the obvious in a total
different point of view.  Greenware works better for draping than slumping.
Be sure to drill a few air holes in a large plate or bowl.  I also prefire.

Stainless steel spoons make great leaves and flower petal forms.

I use Hot-line shelf  primer on everything.  I use Spray A to prevent
divitrification (sp?).  While I started with Gil Reynolds book on Fusing,
this is a technique that requires experimentation.  Every time I do
something inventive, I know that I may have to work it out over a period of
time.  Kiln work requires patience and problem solving skills.  Every type
of glass or form has its own subtle requirements.  But it is a thrill to
form glass into a flower that really looks real!

cj





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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: kiln molds.glass paints
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:27:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.182749.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Sue-

We do tons of glass painting at our
studio and use as our "bible" the =

book entitled "The Art of Painting on
Glass" by Albinus Elskus.  For his
technique, Reusche glass paints are
best - you don't get the blotchy effect
of the cheaper brands which are fine
for suncatchers but not much else -
they're pricey, but worth it if you plan
to do a lot of painting.  The company
should be listed in the IGGA Sources
guide - let me know if you need more
info and I'll dig it up.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/greer/   =

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 00:13:09 1998
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X-Path: tm.net.my!shakeel
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Charles Warner" <charles@warner-criv.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Information about SGAA
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:31:12 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.213112.0>
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Charles,


The SGAA site is at:
http://www.stainedglass.org/

The SGAA Reference & Technical Manual is at:
http://www.stainedglass.org/reference.html

The review of the manual by IGGA is at:
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/sgaa.htm

Just Started Home Page: Visit if you have nothing else to do.
But docome back, things certainly will change.
Planning on adding photos of myself, studio and some works.
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 07:09:54 1998
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: gift shows etc.
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 09:07:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.574.0>
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Message text written by "Michele Spruill"
>I want to attend The Philadelphia Gift Show to look around, and there is=
 =

one in York,PA as well.  I agree one should know about a show before =

participating.  What do the promotors require for identification to be =

admitted as a buyer to these kind of shows?<

At least 3 types of business identification.  These include business
license, business checking account proof (such as a check), business card=
,
state resell license (state tax id), copy of a Yellow Pages ad, etc.  For=

some shows you also have to have a photo id to pick up the badge, just so=

that someone else cannot claim they are you.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 07:37:24 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: <StndGlass1@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: New Website
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 09:22:47 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.132247.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hey there!

I'd like to ask you all to do me a favor if you could.  I've been working on
the new version of our website for almost 7 months now, and it has just gone
up!  It has full online catalog with ordering capabilities, and wholesale
customers that have qualified with us can use a password to access their
wholesale pricing and order online! 

The pictures of the products aren't up yet (will be adding many every day for
the next couple of weeks), but there are full descriptions and all of the
pricing.  We have a free pattern (in time to become a pattern archive), LIVE
chat (not message board style, but LIVE) coming August 1, and much more.   

Anyway, long story short, now that it is up, I'd love it if you would take a
look and tell me what you think (anything could be better? another feature
you'd like? etc.)  Let me know if you catch programming flaws too, though I
think we've caught all of those already.

The secure ordering will be effective early next week as we are currently
waiting on our secure certificate to come from somewhere in South Africa.
Meanwhile, take a peek around and let me know what you think!

Thanks for your time!

Jenna Meredith-Sanders
Meredith Stained Glass
http://www.meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 07:41:04 1998
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From: <Beveler4@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Beveling,making your own
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 09:59:08 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.13598.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Shakeel, As Bob has already said beveling is a whole new subject. there are
many machines to do the job, some are good others aren't so good. I have found
that small outfits like the bevelmax are ok after a lot of practice to make
cut-offs to make a certain bevel fit, but as far as real beveling they can't
cut it. They are difficult to make any curve on and it takes a lot of time. If
you are really serious about beveling the book by Vince Fox is the best and
the other book by the Isenbergs is also a good choice. Vince actually explains
how to make the equipment if you have the know how and the means to do so
,(Not Easy,believe me trust me on that one).Vince taught me the art and I love
it .GOOD LUCK any questions let me know. Beveler4(Stan)
P.S. These are the only two books that I have ever found on the subject of
beveling if anyone out there knows of any others please let me know.
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 09:38:20 1998
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X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Apprentice wanted
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:22:31 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199807161422.KAA26490@water.waterw.com>
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Southern New Jersey Architectural Glass studio is actively
seeking individual interested in apprenticing with nationally
known glass artist. 

Individual must possess experience in leadwork and all
major technical aspects of glass. And must be physically 
able to work with large structures.

Interested applicants please email copy of
current resume to artglass@waterw.com for more information.






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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 16:38:22 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: kiln molds/glass paints
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 19:05:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.1552.0>
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---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	"Albert Lewis", INTERNET:alewis@vgernet.net
TO:	"Michael J. Greer", GreerStudios
DATE:	7/16/98 5:34 AM

RE:	Re: kiln molds.glass paints

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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 05:40:51 +0000
Subject: Re: kiln molds.glass paints
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> technique, Reusche glass paints ...
> to do a lot of painting.  The company
> should be listed in the IGGA Sources
> guide - let me know if you need more
> info and I'll dig it up.

But it is, Dani! <s>
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guider.htm

Although I get the impression they don't sell direct any longer, only =

through distributors:

Reusche & Co. of T.W.S., Inc., 1299 H Street, Greeley CO
                      80631. Phone: (970) 346-8577. Fax: (970)
                      346-8575. =


                           Paint, painting kits, manufacturer. Paint
                           brushes, fusing and painting enamels.
                           Distributed by: Fenton Glass Studio, Ed
                           Hoy's, S.A. Bendheim, Hudson Glass, and
                           McGill Warehouse in the US, Australian
                           Stained Glass Supplies (Australia),
                           Decorative Glass Supplies (England),
                           Creative Glass MHS AG (Switzerland),
                           Artistic Glass (Canada), Kaleido Glass
                           (Canada), Artisans du Vitral (Canada),
                           A.T.V. (Italy), and James Hetley & Co.,
                           Ltd. (England).

Albert
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 17:08:47 1998
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Glass Patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 19:15:48 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.231548.0>
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Hi All:
Does anyone happen to have an E-mail address (or URL) for "West of the Moon"?
Thanks!
"Mike" Mikolajczak
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 18:44:43 1998
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From: Douglas R Terry <dterry@oregontrail.net>
To: "bungie." <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: beveled mirror
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:00:00 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul16.800.0>
Precedence: bulk

I need a beveled mirror oval shape approx. 10 or 12" by 16" (a stock
size
near this would work.) I think approx. 3/8 to 1/2" thick. This is for a
base
for a blown glass piece I am making. If someone has a supplier,
preferably
in the US West Coast, but any US address would work. I don't normally
use
this type of item, so if someone could give me what a reasonable price
might
be, and any tips on using it. I plan to glue the piece to the mirror
with
ultraviolet glue. If there are problems with this, please let me know.

Douglas Terry
(from the Alps of Oregon)
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 16 19:04:01 1998
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From: Ken Neil <kenneil@flinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: subscribe Please
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:34:50 -0500
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I am back in town and looking forward to receiving bungi.  Thank you Brenda

********************************************************************
		Been There........
				Done That!
Ken Neil
Jupiter, Florida
********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Jul 17 15:40:04 1998
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Antique Photographic Glass Negatives
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 12:21:34 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul17.82134.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all.  I've got a client who has about 300 antique (1915-1916)
photographic glass plate negatives she's inherited.  We
have worked out a unique way of using them in a lampshade,
but I need to do some research on preservation of these
negatives before I will take the order.

Are there any special precautions I need to take when using
these glass negative plates in the construction of a lampshade?

It looks like the negative images were created using the old
silver negatives technique.  One side has the negative; one
side is glass.  Looks like it's 1/8" thick.

I am planning on plating the negatives on top of a piece of
Spectrum Ivory swirl glass, so that the antique negatives are
not directly exposed to the light bulb.  Do I need to prepare
the negative with some kind of sealant such as mirror sealant?
Are there certain fluxes I should avoid?  Is it OK to expose
these negatives to water during the clean-up process?

If anyone out there can help, I would appreciate it greatly!

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 17 19:43:38 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Antique Photographic Glass Negatives
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 22:01:51 +0000
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> but I need to do some research on preservation of these
> negatives before I will take the order.

Julie Sloan suggests that you "plate" the emulsion side with clear 
glass to keep water away from it. She says other such projects have 
resulted in the emulsion (and the images) just being washed away by 
rain and sun, although those were exterior applications.

Are the photos themselves worth anything? I'd suggest checking on 
that first.

Albert
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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 00:38:10 1998
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: SGAA Reference & Technical
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:36:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul15.173622.0>
Precedence: bulk

I was fortunate enough to have an expert librarian assist me. He did an
inter-library loan (don't know if available outside USA). It took a couple
of weeks to find it and ship it to him. When it arrived I was absolutely
astonished. It is a huge book over 3 inches thick and is beautifully
illustrated. It covers all aspects of stained glass, history, kilns,
etching, carving, restoration and repair, tools (old and new), of stained
glass to lesson plans on how to teach stained glass courses.

Unfortunately, I can't justify the outlay of $225 US for my therapy (stained
glass). I'm still licking my wounds from putting my two sons through college
to the MBA level. However, I highly recommend this complete tech manual for
anyone who enjoys stained glass and I can foresee repeated references to it
during numerous projects.


Patrick
Roses and Rainbows



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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 08:01:00 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Antique Photographic Glass Negatives
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 06:46:15 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807181346.GAA02134@baby.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Christie,
Old glass negatives, what a  rare find.
I have a suggestion that might help.
Rather than using them directly, as I would imagaine they're extremely
delicate giving the dated material.
Go to a professional lab and see about having an emulsion produced right to
the stained glass.
You can print photographic images directly to canvas, wood, plates, buttons
even brick or rock. I've even seen it done on eggs. If the lab can't do it
they may be able to direct you to a company that can.
This application would be more durable and would save those glass negatives
from any abuse.
Smiles, Cindy

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 12:13:16 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: DIAMONDCRETE
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 13:40:13 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul18.174013.0>
Precedence: bulk

In need of help (again!)  Making a stepping stone and using Diamondcrete for
the first time.  Opened the box it came in and there are no directions.  How
much water (I assume you use water) do I need to add per cup?  And what
consistency should it be?  Any tips about pouring or anything else you can
tell me would be appreciated.

I can't believe there are no directions or labels or anything for this stuff!
Is this the way it's usually packaged?  There's no marking on the box, just a
cardboard box with a plastic bag inside containing the mix.

Thanks in advance.  Brenda
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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 18:37:57 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Summer time blues...non glass
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:12:38 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807190012.RAA11643@baby.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

Okay guys... where are you?
Not too many messages for the past 2 days.
So just to be silly here's a story I wrote:):)

Fall
    is in the air.
Winds blow madly
                with anger.
Knocking leaves to the ground,
                             as if they were in war.
Animals scurry about
     to find the last
              morse of food
                       before,
                            it's taken away.
But none are so busy,
                     as the spider.
Travelling many spider miles,
                            each and every day.

TO GET TO MY HOUSE!!!

I must have a welcome sign hung up,
                 or maybe.......
I'm on the internet
                   under accommodations for spiders.
Never the less
             each year they come unwelcomed.
I've truely seen all kinds,
                        more than any spider book.
And
   they'll do just about anything to get thru the door.
Infact
      drain pipes are common roadways.
Not to mention,
               that
                   they take special courses,
                                            as they seem to,
                                                         
                                                          walk thru walls.
But, it's kinda sad,
                   I almost wish,
                                 to get a message out...
                                                         to them.
Probably you know the end of the story,
                                       for any spider,
                                                      that dares!
To come visit my house!!!


the end, sorry guys I'm alittle bored:):)
PS what ever you guys are doing must be fun, chuckle.
                                            























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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 18:59:15 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Summer time blues...non glass
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:20:35 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807190020.RAA26790@baby.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

Okay guys... where are you?
Not too many messages for the past 2 days.
So just to be silly here's a story I wrote:):)

Fall is in the air.
Winds blow madly with anger.
Knocking leaves to the ground, as if they were in war.
Animals scurry about to find the last morse of food,
before it's taken away.
But none are so busy, as the spider.
Travelling many spider miles, each and every day.
TO GET TO MY HOUSE!!!

I must have a welcome sign hung up,
or maybe.......I'm on the internet under accommodations for spiders.
Never the less each year they come unwelcomed.
I've truely seen all kinds, more than any spider book.
And they'll do just about anything to get thru the door.
Infact drain pipes are common roadways.
Not to mention, that they take special courses,
as they seem to, walk thru walls.
But, it's kinda sad I almost wish, I could get a message out... to them.
Probably you know the end of the story, for any spider, that dares!
To come visit my house!!!


the end, sorry guys I'm alittle bored:):)
PS what ever you guys are doing must be fun, chuckle.
                                            























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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 20:09:22 1998
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X-Path: eatumup.com!byronw
From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: beveled mirror
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:55:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul18.155529.0>
Precedence: bulk

Check in your local Yellow Pages Douglas.. I use a local flat glass beveler
for larger beveling jobs and he can make me most anything...Should be
someone like that in your area... Another place for stock type stuff would
be arts and crafts places like Michaels MJ Designs if you have them in your
area...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas R Terry <dterry@oregontrail.net>
To: bungie. <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, July 16, 1998 12:50 PM
Subject: beveled mirror


>I need a beveled mirror oval shape approx. 10 or 12" by 16" (a stock
>size
>near this would work.) I think approx. 3/8 to 1/2" thick. This is for a
>base
>for a blown glass piece I am making. If someone has a supplier,
>preferably
>in the US West Coast, but any US address would work. I don't normally
>use
>this type of item, so if someone could give me what a reasonable price
>might
>be, and any tips on using it. I plan to glue the piece to the mirror
>with
>ultraviolet glue. If there are problems with this, please let me know.
>
>Douglas Terry
>(from the Alps of Oregon)
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 21:43:14 1998
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: <BMarhon@aol.com>, glass
Subject: Re: DIAMONDCRETE
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:26:56 PDT
Message-ID: <m0yxk7k-000099C@daver.bungi.com>
References: <<BMarhon@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "DIAMONDCRETE" on Jul 18, 13:40, <BMarhon@aol.com> writes:]
> In need of help (again!)  Making a stepping stone and using Diamondcrete for
> the first time.  Opened the box it came in and there are no directions.  How
> much water (I assume you use water) do I need to add per cup?  And what
> consistency should it be?  Any tips about pouring or anything else you can
> tell me would be appreciated.
> 
> I can't believe there are no directions or labels or anything for this stuff!
> Is this the way it's usually packaged?  There's no marking on the box, just a
> cardboard box with a plastic bag inside containing the mix.

I wonder if you got diamondcrete?  I've used this alot and I have
always got directions as well as a labelled box.  Check your source.

The mixing instructions are:

14" round    19 cups	
16" square   28 cups
Hex          20 cups

There are approx. 12 cups diamondcrete in a 10 lb. box.
Other molds (less common) are also listed.  Let me know if you
need them all listed.

A.  2 fl. oz of water (no more) to each 1 cup diamondcrete.
B.  First pour all the premeasured water into a mixing container.
C.  Mix vigorously until all lumps are gone. (2-3 min)
D.  Pour into mold that has a slight film of petroleum jelly.  Now tap
    lightly for 20 seconds on bench around mold to removed air bubbles.
E.  Diamondcrete sets up in approx. 35 minutes but allow to remain in mold
    for 45 min - 1 hour.
F.  Allow to cure indoors at least 28 days.  Elevate with pencils
    to allow air flow underneath.

It's also wise to seal with a concrete sealer.

Hope this helps.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sat Jul 18 22:23:44 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: <Beveler4@aol.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: looking for Shakeel
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 00:12:38 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul19.41238.0>
Precedence: bulk

Shakeel I tried to send you an E-Mail  but it would not go thru I will try to
find you a copy of that book E-Mail me your address so that if I find it I can
send it to you.Beveler4(Stan)
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 19 06:05:16 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Summer time blues...non glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 07:11:02 +0000
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> Okay guys... where are you?
> Not too many messages for the past 2 days.

Cindy,

I've been on bungi for a couple of years and have noticed that 
weekends slow down ... everyone's doing chores, I guess. <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 19 22:38:49 1998
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X-Path: oxford.net!tmr
From: "Teresa Ross" <tmr@oxford.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:04:22 -0700
Message-ID: <199807200203.WAA00747@server1.oxford.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am very
grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a straight
line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it worse. I was
told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am ruining
lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance.

teresa
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 19 23:43:09 1998
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bio #37  Peggy Johnsen
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 00:22:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul19.192240.0>
Precedence: bulk

Name:  Peggy W. Johnsen

Location:  Santa Maria, CA

Studio:  PJ's Stained Glass Studio
I have worked in stained glass for some 12 years with prior experience in
glass related art.  I have two art minors and spent time in the Smokey
Mountains at Gatlinburg, Tenn.

Currently I work as an educational administrator full time.  I have just
sign my seventh contract with the Vandenberg Air Base to teach stained glass
at their skill development center.  My teaching curricula includes:
Copper-foil method, lead came method, boxes, kaleidoscopes, mosaic garden
stones, panel lamps, and three
dimensional gift items.

I do a lot of repair work including bent panel replacement which requires
fusing.  I do sand etching--mostly mirrors but some carving to support
stained glass panels.  I do commissions upon request.  Hopefully, within the
year, I plan to be a full time stained glass artist and craftsperson.



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From owner-glass Sun Jul 19 23:49:42 1998
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From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bio #38 Mike Peck
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 00:31:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul19.193132.0>
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Mike Peck

I was born in Kansas City in 1951.  My Dad was in the Navy so we
 traveled around a lot during my preschool and elementary grades,
 Virginia for a short while, then Jacksonville and Key West Florida.  My
memories of Florida are frightening, I remember huge land crabs that came=
 up
from the beaches and scoured our garbage cans, snakes, lizards,  scorpion=
s,
gators.  My Mom was always telling me to stay away from the tall grass.

We moved to Ventura California when I was in fourth grade,  then to San
Diego for the fifth grade and stayed there through my high school graduat=
ion
in 1969.

My Dad was in the enlisted ranks in the Navy and I am the oldest of six
children in our family, so when I graduated high school, there was no mon=
ey
for college.  And, I wasn't a very good student so there were no
scholarships.  I was drafted in 1970 at the tender age of 19, and went to
Viet Nam just about 18 months following the TET Offensive.  I thought for
the longest time that, that experience was the low point in my life.  But=
,
looking back on it now, I realize that it actually took me about 4-5 year=
s
after I returned to the States to fully recover from that experience.

While I was away, my Dad retired from the Navy and had moved our family b=
ack
to "home", which to him was Kansas City.  Well, I didn=92t know anyone in=
 KC,
but felt comfortable since most of my relatives are around here.   I bumm=
ed
around for a couple years, worked as a car and motorcycle mechanic at a f=
ew
local shops.  Then, enrolled in a small community college in 1974 thinkin=
g
that I wanted to get into either science or art, then transferred over to
University of Missouri and graduated with a degree in chemistry.

I spent 17 years in the pharmaceutical industry, started as a research
chemist, then moved over into their international division monitoring
clinical trials.  I enjoyed that job a lot, even spent three years going =
to
night school to get an MBA.  We merged with Dow Chemical in 1991, then we=
re
sold off to a German company (Hoerst) and the corporate culture died.

Well, I was much too young to retire and too old to put up with a promisi=
ng
career that had been reduced to a "job", so I began
planning for a transition.  I had been doing stained glass for about 10
years then, so that was my first choice.

I started working for two local builders around in 1991, and started a
 business in my basement called Midwest Hardwoods and Stained Glass.  I w=
as
doing cabinets, entertainment centers, curios, anything in wood  that I
could also put some glass in.  It was extremely hard because I was workin=
g
for the company during the day and moonlighting my own business at night.

Well, in 1993 I left the company and started full time with my own busine=
ss.
In 1995, we moved out of my basement and  into a retail shop where we are=
 at
the present time and it was then that  I renamed the business to Summit
Stained Glass.  I still do a lot of
woodwork, but am always trying to figure out how to put stained glass in =
it.

I know I=92ve rambled, I won=92t apologize because I=92d personally like =
to
hear similar life stories about the rest of you.  Let me just add a few
more points ........ my wife of 18 years has certainly put up with the
worst side of me, and always seems to bring out the best in me.  And, And=
ria
is actually my niece, although I call her my daughter.  My sister went
through a divorce many years ago, then died from some ovarian  cancer
leaving two children.  I took Andria, and her brother is living with anot=
her
sister of mine.  So, Andria has been with us for about 7  years and is no=
w
12 years old.

One of my primary goals in life is to live to be 100!  My wife says that
among her goals is to live long enough to see me make it to 100!  So, loo=
ks
like we have another 53 years to go.

Hope you enjoyed it.

Mike



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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 00:37:22 1998
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: "Teresa Ross" <tmr@oxford.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:40:46 PDT
Message-ID: <m0yy9cs-0000A5C@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "cutting straight line!!!" on Jul 19, 22:04, "Teresa Ross" writes:]
> Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am very
> grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a straight
> line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it worse. I was
> told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am ruining
> lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance.

Try holding the cutter with "control" to begin with.  
Don't move your wrist if possible and instead emphasize your whole arm
moving with the cut...follow trhu with your body.
What type of cutter are you using?
I personally use a pistol type.  I cannot seem to use a straight cutter
very well.

When grinding lay the piece flat and use both hands to hold the glass
running smooth as you move the piece forward.  Make sure you have a sharp
bit and always make sure to use water.

Hope this helps


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 00:51:54 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, tmr@oxford.net
Subject: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 02:49:41, -0500
Message-ID: <199807200649.CAA18622@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>>Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am 
very
grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a 
straight
line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it worse. 
I was
told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am 
ruining
lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance. teresa<<

Cutting a straight line in glass is not as easy as it would seem. The 
good part is that once you get the hang of it seems to happen for 
free.

Most people cut straight lines by pulling the cutter against a 
straight edge such as an aluminum ruler that is 1/8" thick by 2" wide 
by X long. Just start very near the far end of the glass and pull the 
cutter along the straight edge. Be careful to hold the cutter wheel 
at a right angle to the glass and apply moderate pressure (just 
enough pressure so the cutter "talks" to you as it scribes the glass).
 

Maintain a small amount of pressure against the straight edge to 
prevent the cutter from wandering. Strive to make the cut in one 
flowing motion while maintaining even pressure. It is good if the 
cutter can drop off the end of the glass onto a soft surface like 
wood or plastic. Complete the breakout immediately after cutting to 
prevent "healing" of the score and poor breaks.

Another tool is a plastic right angle made for the purpose of cutting 
 glass right angels such as in glass squares. These seem to do a 
slightly better job of slipping the cutter along the edge.

Also remember there is an offset between the edge of the straight 
edge and the actual track of the wheel. For the Toyo cutter this is 
3/32" I believe and so it makes a real difference in rather the cut 
piece will fit or not.

I seem to have used a great many words to describe what will shortly 
become a simple task for you.

Bob




____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*US Navy retired, please pay your taxes promptly.*
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 01:36:09 1998
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X-Path: email.msn.com!bird_cage
From: "Doug Parrott" <bird_cage@email.msn.com>
To: "Teresa Ross" <tmr@oxford.net>
Subject: Re: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 00:51:00 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul19.17510.0>
Precedence: bulk

Teresa,

Are you using a straight edge?  Myself, I don't even attempt a straight line
without using my straight edge.  I have a 1/4 piece of plexiglass that is 1
1/2" by 18".  I have been using the same straight edge for 20 years.  With
one hand I hold the straight edge firmly on the glass and the other hand I
run the cutter right up against the straight edge.  See how that works.  If
you are still having trouble, you may want to tap the glass before applying
pressure.  There is also a type of breaking pliers for cutting straight
pieces.  You're retailer should carry it.  I don't remember what it is
called.  I use it ocassionally when I am cutting a long narrow piece.


Cheryl





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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 01:48:04 1998
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X-Path: hotmail.com!scottjf55
From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE:straight line
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:51:27 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul20.55127.0>
Precedence: bulk

   Having trouble cutting a straight line?  Well I use a metal ruler 
with a cork bottom so it doesnt slip.  You just put the ruler on the 
glass next to the line youv'e drawn.  Then sight at the top of the 
ruler, then the bottom and make sure the cutter is on the line foil, 
inside the line for lead(if you using a sharpie pen).  Your cutter will 
be guided right along the straight line by the ruler.  
   

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 02:08:07 1998
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From: glasschic <joyce@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 04:07:20 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.19980720040719.006bd834@mail.bright.net>
Precedence: bulk

At 10:04 PM 7/19/98 -0700, Teresa Ross wrote:
>Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am very
>grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a straight
>line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it worse. I was
>told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am ruining
>lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance.

There are devices to help you cut a straight line.  Using a metal glass
ruler with a cork backing that you slide your cutter against will help you
make a straight score.  Or use one of the many brands of strip cutters, or
the Morton system.  They all aid you in making a nice straight cut.

However, once you make the cut and you go to grinding, I have a tip that I
use with my students.  I have them hold the piece of glass against a
straight edge of some sort, so that they can see light through the spaces
where the piece of glass doesn't meet the straight edge.  They then mark
with a Sharpie pen, the places that do meet the straight edge and know that
those are the places to be gone over (lightly) with the grinder.  As they
grind, they should be making progress, so that less and less light shows
through the crack in between the glass and the straight edge.  When
virtually no light shines through, then the piece of glass is deemed
straight enough to go into the stained glass project.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
Ohio

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 07:19:17 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 06:04:35 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807201304.GAA24670@baby.vphos.net>
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>Hi Teresa,

Glad to see you have gotten lots of good advice.
Try to practice on some clear window glass...it's pretty cheap and some
places will give you it for free from the trash they throw out.

Smiles, Cindy



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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 08:19:29 1998
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From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Non-Glass: Looking for Mike Peck
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:01:04 +0800
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Gidday Y'all and apologies for doing this but the email addy I had for
Mike Peck bounced and I need to contact him.... ::Waving:: hoy, Mike!!
You there, mate? Please get in touch!
-- Thanks!!
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 08:49:33 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re:  cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 10:13:20 EDT
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Teresa Ross says: 

> I can't seem to master cutting a straight line which isn't
> jagged.

Get a Morton Portable Glass Shop. I did, and I've gotten spoiled in a hurry!
(I could never keep a regular straight edge in place - didn't think to try a
cork-backed one. Besides, I couldn't find one thick enough to use with my
cutter.) Line up the glass, score it, and break it over the edge of your
Morton Board. Minimal grinding required.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 09:09:44 1998
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Subject: Re: Summer time blues...back to glass, and weird tools
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 10:12:54 EDT
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Cindy (the resident poet and scourge of all things 8-legged) says:

> Okay guys... where are you?
> Not too many messages for the past 2 days.

It has been slow... my guess is that unless they have a store to run on
weekends, everyone with a scrap of sense in their head and a few bucks in
their pocket has headed off to the beach, the mountains, the local pool, or
even the air-conditioned comfort of the local library (OK, so maybe I'm Very
Weird, but oh! the art books! and it's free - free is good when you're as
broke as I am).

My "summertime blues" are largely related to the state of the electricity
around here. I live in a 40-year-old house with original wiring, and the local
utility struggles to keep enough juice flowing. Of course it gets worse in
weather like this, when everybody and their dog is running the a/c for all
they're worth.

The glass-related result is, after about noon I have a hell of a time trying
to solder. Even with the iron turned almost all the way up, it will be hot
enough for a while, then cool off and the solder will get "just barely
sticky." I know it's the local juice, because the iron is fine up at
Christie's.

Pathologically Resourceful Weirdo and Hardware Junkie that I am, I'm thinking
about investing in a power conditioner/uninterruptible power source, say a
200-watt one. It will be a hell of a lot cheaper than rewiring the house, and
will let me keep working. (I'm generally not awake enough to solder in the
morning.)

What my enquiring mind wants to know is: has anyone tried this? Anyone have
any thoughts on the idea?


CCW "Tool time! More power!" Sparks

(also getting ready to rig up a Water Pik to feed water to the drill bit on my
grinder... one of these days I have to remember to pick up the tips when I'm
in the drug store)
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 09:19:08 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Teresa Ross <tmr@oxford.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 10:24:23 -0400
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References: <<199807200203.WAA00747@server1.oxford.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Teresa Ross wrote:
> 
> Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am very
> grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a straight
> line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it worse. I was
> told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am ruining
> lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance.
> 
> teresa
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


mainly you want to work against a ruler, about 1/8" high. the idea is to
push against the ruler and pull down on the cutter. the hard part is
that the cutter will want to go on the ruler, and it won't give you the
right pressure or angle to get a good break. the best way is to use a
scoring board of some kind. morton or the other one (that i use). the
ruler ends to shift when you use it. is you only have a ruler, the
ruler  needs to be smooth or have a cork back.  a large triangle should
work.

the other way is to use a strip cutter. or do it by hand. the hand
method won't be totally true, but it will break the way you want it. but
you need a very steady hand and good hand-eye coordination. practice
tracing things with a pen, that will help quite a bit, (trace letters,
scrolling things, etc.)

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 11:56:23 1998
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X-Path: cybersol.com!TWLARRY
From: TWLARRY@cybersol.com (Nordhoff, Larry)
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Summer time blues...back to glass, and weird tools
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 13:26:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul20.92631.0>
References: <<1998Jul20.141254.0>>
Organization: Trade Winds
Precedence: bulk

Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Cindy (the resident poet and scourge of all things 8-legged) says:
> 
> > Okay guys... where are you?
> > Not too many messages for the past 2 days.
> 
> It has been slow... my guess is that unless they have a store to run on
> weekends, everyone with a scrap of sense in their head and a few bucks in
> their pocket has headed off to the beach, the mountains, the local pool, or
> even the air-conditioned comfort of the local library (OK, so maybe I'm Very
> Weird, but oh! the art books! and it's free - free is good when you're as
> broke as I am).
> 
> My "summertime blues" are largely related to the state of the electricity
> around here. I live in a 40-year-old house with original wiring, and the local
> utility struggles to keep enough juice flowing. Of course it gets worse in
> weather like this, when everybody and their dog is running the a/c for all
> they're worth.
> 
> The glass-related result is, after about noon I have a hell of a time trying
> to solder. Even with the iron turned almost all the way up, it will be hot
> enough for a while, then cool off and the solder will get "just barely
> sticky." I know it's the local juice, because the iron is fine up at
> Christie's.
> 
> Pathologically Resourceful Weirdo and Hardware Junkie that I am, I'm thinking
> about investing in a power conditioner/uninterruptible power source, say a
> 200-watt one. It will be a hell of a lot cheaper than rewiring the house, and
> will let me keep working. (I'm generally not awake enough to solder in the
> morning.)
> 
> What my enquiring mind wants to know is: has anyone tried this? Anyone have
> any thoughts on the idea?
> 
> CCW "Tool time! More power!" Sparks
> 
> (also getting ready to rig up a Water Pik to feed water to the drill bit on my
> grinder... one of these days I have to remember to pick up the tips when I'm
> in the drug store)
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


Hi Cindy,
A fourty year old house or one built in the 50's should have adequate
wireing.  Have you thought of going to 200 amp service.  This is an
option that will give you more power for very little cash outlay.  You
may only need a seperate line to your fuse box for that matter.

When we bought our house we 
had to rewire it.  It was built around 1932 and had single wire mounted
on porcline knobs.  There was only 40 amp service.  There were no
outlets in the house and every time the pump kicked in the lights would
dim.  We had 100 amp service put in after rewiring.  We also have a 
store that we had upgraded to 200 amp service.

Hope this gives you some other options to explore.

T W LARRY (T W stands for Trade Winds our store name.)
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 14:09:41 1998
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From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: straight lines
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 01:40:36 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul19.194036.0>
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I grind my straight lines on a 6" standard grid disk on the Diamond Max.  It
requires a steady hand...I premark with a permanent marker the plumb line,
so I can focus.  I cannot eye-ball a straightline or a right angle.

Some advise that was given to me when scoring a  long straight line, once
you have everything in place (the straight edge, etc.) then remember it is
not the amount of force you put on a score, but the smoothness and speed
that will give you a good break.  So I say to myself "charge!" right before
scoring.  Then I keep that cutter moving smoothly and quickly...and I don't
worry about how hard I am pressing.  (When I was beginning, I think I used
to try to engrave my break line with muscle.. but it has very little to do
with force.)

The very first project I did, was a geometric one.  It had nothing but
straight lines in it.  It was not a great success, but after completing a
few more projects, I could now attack the same project and I am confident
that my lines would be straighter.

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 14:37:55 1998
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From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Water Pik on Grinder???
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 15:41:34 -0400 (EDT)
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Witchdoc3@aol.com (<Witchdoc3@aol.com>) wrote:

>(also getting ready to rig up a Water Pik to feed
>water to the drill bit on my grinder...

Hmmmm... this sounds very interesting.  The "automatic" water feed on my
grinder never works to my satisfaction and the sponge  is frustrating.
Would you be willing to share how you plan to rig this up?  Would this
work for the grinding bits as well?

Thanks!!!   Joan

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 18:16:09 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: cutting straight line!!!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:43:49 +0000
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Dear Teresa,

Practice, practice, practice!!!!!

It's quite true that it isn't the pressure which is important, but 
smoothness and speed (CHARGE! - someone said... And I had to smile, 
because there is a certain amount of truth in that)
Practice on "window glass" someone else said. That's fine too if you 
can get scraps for nothing. The best glass to practice on (at least 
here in UK) is glass made for green-houses; the "fine" name is 
"horticultural glass". "Window" glass is between 4-6 mm thick, as a 
rule, whereas greenh.... sorry... "horticultural glass" is 3 mm 
thick. I.e. the thickness (as a rule) of the coloured glass you will 
eventually cut anyway). It simulates much better the cutting and 
breaking-out qualities of coloured glass and is therefore ideal to 
practice on.  Even OLD greenh... "horticultural glass" is useful. It 
tends to be more brittle, sometimes a little bit more "powdery" than 
new glass, but that too is a good learning experience since you will 
encounter the many different ways that  different coloured glass 
behaves. 
In my classes I collect sheets and sheets of this glass, both old and 
new and literally "dish it out" to my students to experiment with at 
home.  When I myself have created a particular difficult cut for 
myself, I always practice and perfect my technique for that 
particular piece on a bit of greenhouse glass until I am happy.
I have never got on with the "ruler-technique". If I am tired and 
"bleary-eyed", I will invariably resort to a strip-cutter rather than 
a ruler. On the whole though, I cut the "Straight Lines" 
free-hand...

Another trick in cutting straight lines (....and we have been arguing 
this point before) is to cut away from you, rather than towards you.
You have better control that way and your body doesn't get in the way 
and upset your balance.

UK Hartley-Woood Glass, by the way - is shortly to be "resurrected". 
About 4 of the original Hartley-Wood experts have joined the new 
people  that bought out the Company and rumour has it that the 
glorious quality of Hartley-Wood Glass will not be allowed to die.
But - as with many buy-outs - the name might change.....
Watching the development most closely.....


Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


At 10:04 PM 7/19/98 -0700, Teresa Ross wrote:
>Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am very
>grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a straight
>line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it worse. I was
>told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am ruining
>lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance.

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 18:41:07 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Summer time blues...back to glass, and weird tools
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:43:50 +0000
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Precedence: bulk

Oh YES!!!!

I distinctly remember telling Bunginians, how I used to tip-toe down 
 my garden in bare feet last summer in the moonlight, sitting down 
in the garden and do my soldering there in the early hours of the 
morning, dressed in NOTHING. It was simply too hot during the day to 
work and my Viking blood was/is not up to it... It gave a whole NEW 
meaning to dropping a blob of melting solder.... No, I didn't catch 
German Measles on my tummy, only hot solder!!! The neighbours were 
asleep anyway and my garden IS really very private.     .....   ;->

I live in a cottage that is about 200 years old  (that's at least 
when the first records of it have been found). The wiring 
occasionally appears to be just as old. My kiln used to blow the 
whole village, but a soldering iron or two seem to work OK.

Have just been reading new tourist blurb about Sweden, where visitors 
to a Swedish home STILL today are reminded to take their shoes off, 
when entering a Swedish home. This really warmed my soul and I 
thought of Daniel, my "bare-foot fellow".

Am still a bit disorientated , even if now back in UK,  and am 
working my way through the many lovely and wonderful messages one by 
one.
Hot and warm wishes - 'n keep soldering....
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK (who can't QUITE keep up the sulk anymore...)


"Sparks" wrote in response to Cindy:
> Pathologically Resourceful Weirdo and Hardware Junkie that I am, I'm thinking
> about investing in a power conditioner/uninterruptible power source, say a
> 200-watt one. It will be a hell of a lot cheaper than rewiring the house, and
> will let me keep working. (I'm generally not awake enough to solder in the
> morning.)
> 
> What my enquiring mind wants to know is: has anyone tried this? Anyone have
> any thoughts on the idea?
> 
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 19:21:40 1998
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X-Path: mpx.com.au!harlquin
From: "Gerard" <harlquin@mpx.com.au>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: re: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:27:23 +1000
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.92723.0>
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hi Teresa
my bit of advice for all it's worth is this:
get a large piece of window glass (maybe recycled) and a good cutter and
practice cutting... more and more and more again.
i think it's fair to say we all had some difficulty cutting when we started,
but in glass as in any other craft, practice makes perfect+ACE- (almost)
Harlequin at http://surf.to/harlquin
Harlequin Leadlight other pages
http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/3530/index.html
http://www.freeyellow.com/members2/ondaderthad/index.html
Join the leadlight webring
http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/3530/webring.html


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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 19:42:52 1998
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Subject: Re:Oh what a nightmare-update
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 17:38:29 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------03B53BFD491334BDB5AD6B17
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Hi everyone!

Well, well for those of you wondering how my beach escapades are going,
and remember this post of awhile back, here goes.

Went down to the beach this weekend, had a wonderful time. I was with 2
hormonal 12 years olds (my daughter and her friend). This time I brought
a stained glass bird bath/table, outdoor stained glass lights, beautiful
cedar planters to put into the beach shop. My daughter and her friend
make braided jewelry, like the kids wear today. They brought their
products with a blue pine display made by my husband again. Our first
one is still in the shop housing my stones..

I walked into the shop, where I noticed my display, which I might add is
looking great in that shop thank you very much. Any way, noticed right
off the bat that 3 of my stones were priced down, without my o.k. One
was priced at $21.99. The initial shock of that price on that stone  (it
has bevels incorporated into the design), almost put me into cardiac
arrest. "My friend" then proceeds to tell me that 3 customers have come
into the shop and stated that if only I had stones in such and such
colors  then of course they would buy them.

Well she said that right after I noticed the price on my stones. Now at
this point I'm ready to kill this woman, yes I will admit, maim and hurt
were my goal at the time. She then says "well I priced them down to see
if we would sell more". My thoughts at the time (#@(*&^%$)!

Now for customers that call me personally or e-mail me on the internet,
you bet, I bend over backwards for them and of course offer any color
they want.

She explained to me that her thinking on the price was due to the fact
that the area had a small craft show a couple weeks back. Now a lady at
the craft show was selling her stones for $22.00 each. First of all the
lady at the craft show is on her own, she is not charging herself a
commission price I tell my friend. Second, I'm not that lady. I couldn't
say anymore than that at this point in the game, I was a tad unnerved.

Don't get me wrong bungians, I love feedback, criticism etc. This is
what I believe makes us successful, customer comments about my products
I value. Currently I have about 9 different colors in her shop, 25
stones that all have different colored glass. There is a great selection
there. I can think of 10 million different colors I could put down there
too. Ended up bringing 8 stones home, it was 9 but one got stolen out of
the truck when we stopped at a gift shop, good grief, can you imagine
lugging a stolen stepping stone around town! I know, should have kept an
eye on them, but was more interested in keeping my eye on my hormonal
girls at the time.

The number of items I have in her shop I'm comfortable with. and I do
like the advertising. I believe I made it clear to her price changing is
not a good idea, and I'm putting that mildly.


Now, my daughter and her friend have a beautiful display in blue pine.
The agreement my friend made with the girls was to do commission at 10%.
The girls unload their products which I might add are, highly
professional looking the type of jewelry kids today "die over". After we
have unloaded all of our products and get back in the truck my daughter
proceeds to tell me that my friend is charging them 25% in commission,
still very low yes, but the girls priced all of their products at the
10% commission rate. So they just lost 15% walking into the shop.

Now for a first business experience I wanted the girls to have a good
one and learn some things. Yes this is a positive learning experience
for them I agree. And they have definitely learned a good business
lesson here. Did I go back into the shop and confront my friend with the
commission issue? No. I forced myself to remember that I am respectful,
I am a lady and I will not kill in daylight hours.

I'm being very patient with her as a new business owner. I guess my one
comment to make to people who are considering consignment would be this.

Ask the business owner questions on their business experience,
practices, goals etc. Be as informed as you can be going into the shop.
Keep in contact with the business owner and check on your products. And
trust your instincts.

Now if you have all made it through to the end of this very long post.
Then I can't wait to hear your comments, I know they will always be
helpful and honest.

To Cheryl and Shirley, ( fellow bungians), I thank you again for your
personal help on this matter and the good advice.

Sincerely,

Pam

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--------------03B53BFD491334BDB5AD6B17--

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 19:53:38 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Bio: Peggy Johnsen
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Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 02:10:02 +0000
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My Dear Petal Peggy;

As I told you over the telephone, and... will confirm in Bungi......

Your Bio is a total disgrace!!!!

YOU can do better than that....!
Listen Folks! This is a person who has absorbed an astonishing amount 
of know-how, knowledge and history about stained glass ; - as well as 
about human nature, compassion and.... Lifefulness!
I have had the wonderful privelege of living with her - side-by-side 
for almost 3 weeks.
My dining-room table has  wonderful horsehoe nail marks that makes me 
smille every time I see them.... We got rather carried away that 
night..... She is a complete Master of "under-statement"!!! Everyone 
in UK that she met, were totally under her  spell - everyone 
remembers "Peggy"; everyone wants to have news of her...... She reads 
everything in Bungi, yet she speaks out quite seldom. WHEN she does, 
I sit up and listen.

We have very loseley worked on a teaching curriculum together.
My rather forced visit to Sweden, has rather "blown" the plans my 
heart so much desired to do..... to visit USA this autumn. Peggy will 
be my high-point and focal point for a visit to USA.
Jeez, I wish I could run a motorbike the way she did....

In France, Peggy  had an argument with a round-about, tripped and 
fell somewhat badly. I think there were only TWO people who ever ever 
knew  about it - Kathe and myself. We nursed her, bandaged her and 
tried to make her comfortable. She was  most insistant that nobody 
else should know,,,, Total and utter Sunshine came out of her and 
from her...... Everyone soaked it up and loved her.
,.,.and Toby??? 
He fell in Love - for the  First Real Time In His Life...... Little 
Chap - he gave his ALL!!!  He preened, he pranced, he paraded a 
bout....Who am I to argue with HIM???? 
Peggy, you can do better than  this 6=-liner for a Bio!"!!!

"Disgusted from England"
aka
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK



P.S. Patrick!!! what a poor psychologist you are.....  Come On!! 
Dig a bit!!!
----
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North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 20:53:17 1998
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Subject: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:20:40 EDT
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A weird thing happened this afternoon when I went to put copper patina on a
couple of finished pieces. Freshly soldered, washed (with ordinary liquid
dishwashing soap - Sunlight, I think), thoroughly rinsed & dried, and I was
using a new bottle of patina (only used once before, a couple of weeks ago,
and worked fine then) and a clean cotton rag... and the result was a patchy,
scuzzy, skanky, uneven mix of not-too-bright copper and corrosion that took a
hell of a lot of scrubbing with a toothbrush and then more scrubbing with a
lot of Kem-O-Pro to get looking even marginal.

Anybody have any idea why it did that? Suggestions on cleaning it up?


Sparks
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 20 23:40:41 1998
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From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:01:40 -0700
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Hi Sparks

What about removing it with steel wool?  I was using black patina today on
something I'd cleaned the same way, but left sitting for a day first.  It
didn't take evenly.  Seems a bit of a film had formed over the cleaned
lead...once I'd cleaned off the splotchy patina with the extra fine steel
wool and reapplied it took fine.  Cleaned the other pieces with steel wool
first and the patina took just fine then.  

Good luck

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 01:49:33 1998
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Subject: Hartley Wood (was Re: cutting straight line)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:56:42 +0100
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References: <<199807202347.AAA06883@saturn.nildram.co.uk>>
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At 00:43 21/07/98 +0000, EliSabeth wrote:
>UK Hartley-Woood Glass, by the way - is shortly to be "resurrected". 
>About 4 of the original Hartley-Wood experts have joined the new 
>people  that bought out the Company and rumour has it that the 
>glorious quality of Hartley-Wood Glass will not be allowed to die.
>But - as with many buy-outs - the name might change.....
>Watching the development most closely.....

That would be terrific if they were to carry on making the same quality of
glass that the original company did.  We were disappointed in HW's last
years with the stuff they were shipping out - much paler glass on the
whole, without the vibrancy of much of the old glass - and so badly
scratched too :-(
We heard that the old site is going for housing development, so wonder if
the new company will be sited at the new glass centre in Sunderland which I
think is now open.
Have you had the chance to visit it?  We keep promising ourselves a trip
one day but never seem to have the time.
By the way, did your Australian students finish their 6 foot crocodile?

Elizabeth Law
Bournemouth Stained Glass
htp://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 02:50:48 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: RE: yucky patina problem
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 21:31:21 PDT
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     I had that happen with black patina and I found out that it was 
from the solder I was using.  I guess the first thing I would do since 
it happened to me once, is try and remember which solder  I was 
using....could have been some old stuff, or something else all together.  
I am sure we'll get to the bottom of this!!!

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 06:29:30 1998
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Subject: RE: yucky patina problem
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:30:53 EDT
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scott floyd said:

> I had that happen with black patina and I found out that
> it was from the solder I was using. I guess the first thing
> I would do since it happened to me once, is try and
> remember which solder  I was using [...]

"Good old reliable" Fry 60/40, like always...


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 06:58:11 1998
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From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
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Subject: re-oh whata nightmare
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 07:44:10 -0600
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Pam, you're experience with this shop has not been good.  I would not
tolerate anyone pricing my glass without my permission.  Do you pay 10%
commission?  If so then I would confront this woman and demand that your
girls get 10% also.  Even better I would pull out of the shop
completely.  She doesn't sound trustworthy.  There is my 2 cents worth. 
Sue
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 07:17:40 1998
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From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
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Subject: friendship vs glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 07:49:45 -0600
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I need alittle advise.  I know this sounds silly, but I have a chance to
explore teaching and selling products.  This sounds great right.  Well I
am very good friends with the owner of the only glass shop in the area. 
She makes comments about other shops putting glass in there window and
how awful she thinks that is and how they should stay out of her
business.  A person approached me about teaching classes at his
business.  I would love to do this, but I know my friend will have a
fit.  Do I try and incorporate her shop into my class, for example, send
everyone to her shop for glass etc or do I just set it up and say its a
free country.  Do you see my problem.  If I set it up myself then I can
profit from selling materials on my own.  Any suggestions would be
appreciated.
Sue
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 07:31:20 1998
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From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Bad Patina Day
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 19:09:46 -0600
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I have had that problem this summer too, with copper.  I thought at the
time, I did not wash the flux off well.  I also used dish liquid.  Some one
told me to use "Simple Green" which is a cleaning liquid on my soldering.  I
haven't bought any, but I have paid better attention to washing my
soldering, and it hasn't recurred.   I am still not convinced what caused
it, and how to avoid it?

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 07:35:42 1998
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From: "BRIDE' WEBB" <gatehous@7cities.net>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Copper Patina finishes.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:03:56 -0600
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I've been using more copper patina lately, but though the finishing
compound buffs up and shines the  copper patina beautifully, once it is
exposed to direct sunlight and I suppose the heat I have several pieces
change to almost a brass looking finish.  Does anyone know of a way to
prevent this from happening?  My black and silver finishes  haven't changed
at all, only the copper.  Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Bride'    e-mail.....gatehous@7cities.net
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 08:05:42 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: tmr@oxford.net
Subject: Re: cutting straight line!!!
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:45:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul20.214548.0>
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Teresa,

There is a brief tutorial on straight line cutting using a straight edge
at our website that may offer a point or two that haven't been covered
yet....Anyway, it couldn't hurt!

It is the glassworking tip from june of 96'.  Start at
http://www.dodgestudio.com and follow the links to glassworkers tips.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:40:46 PDT gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) writes:
>[In the message entitled "cutting straight line!!!" on Jul 19, 22:04, 
>"Teresa Ross" writes:]
>> Hi...I am a novice at this. I have written a couple of times and am 
>very
>> grateful for the help received.I can't seem to master cutting a 
>straight
>> line which isn't jagged. Grinding it out only seems to make it 
>worse. I was
>> told to go light on the grinding...can't seem to get it, and I am 
>ruining
>> lots of glass. Any tips...thanks in advance.

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 09:01:11 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
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Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:52:45 +0000
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> am very good friends with the owner of the only glass shop in the area. 
> She makes comments about other shops putting glass in there window and
> how awful she thinks that is and how they should stay out of her
> business. 

An often-heard complaint in the stained glass world ... and probably 
in other areas, too. But one of the "givens" in business (and your 
friend *is in business) is that competition's healthy ... and 
inevitable.

She should remember that when she opened her shop that she did so at 
a time when other stained glass outlets existed. I'm sure they 
resented her new shop as much as she resents newer ones that open, 
but she should see it as opportunity rather than mere competition. 
Okay, those other glass shops might not have been right in your area, 
but they might have considered the area "part" of their "domain," 
their service area.

The more glass and glass outlets there are, the more the 
consciousness of the public is raised and the more glass is 
appreciated.  Your friend should think about how to work together 
with others who have seen how beautiful and marketable glass can be 
rather than resent their presence.

As for your activities vis-a-vis your friend's, you have to do what 
feels right to you. You wouldn't let her decide for you what to wear, 
who to marry, how many kids to have any more than you'd let her 
decide how to run your own business.

Is this a great country, or what? <g>

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 09:21:21 1998
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Subject: Re: re-oh whata nightmare
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> completely.  She doesn't sound trustworthy.  There is my 2 cents 
worth. 

And here's mine. <g> She might be trustworthy, but it does sound like 
she's feeling her way into how the local customers react to pricing 
and color selection. I think you'd be perfectly within your rights to 
say, "as long as my income from the sale isn't affected, you can 
price my work however you like." In other words, if the work is 
discounted, the discount comes out of her end, unless she's made 
prior arrangements with you.

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 09:38:25 1998
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From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re:Oh what a nightmare-update
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:22:20 -0400 (EDT)
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Hi Pam,

I was wondering what type of contract you have with this store.
Hopefully it is one that says how much you actually want for each piece you
have consigned.  And not one that says a percentage. 

Secondly, not to be flip and nothing against you daughter and her friend,
but I really don't know what kind of professionalism you can expect from
someone who sells work made by twelve year olds no matter if they are
professional looking or not.  
Apparently this is more of a crafty store than a craft gallery.


And why if this woman has given you so much grief would you ever subject
your daughter and her friend to her? And then she charges them more
commission than they agreed? 

Looks to me like your just getting in deeper. And just prolonging your own
aggravation.

my best,
pj

>Hi everyone!
>
>Well, well for those of you wondering how my beach escapades are going,
>and remember this post of awhile back, here goes.
>
>Went down to the beach this weekend, had a wonderful time. I was with 2
>hormonal 12 years olds (my daughter and her friend). This time I brought
>a stained glass bird bath/table, outdoor stained glass lights, beautiful
>cedar planters to put into the beach shop. My daughter and her friend
>make braided jewelry, like the kids wear today. They brought their
>products with a blue pine display made by my husband again. Our first
>one is still in the shop housing my stones..
>
>I walked into the shop, where I noticed my display, which I might add is
>looking great in that shop thank you very much. Any way, noticed right
>off the bat that 3 of my stones were priced down, without my o.k. One
>was priced at $21.99. The initial shock of that price on that stone  (it
>has bevels incorporated into the design), almost put me into cardiac
>arrest. "My friend" then proceeds to tell me that 3 customers have come
>into the shop and stated that if only I had stones in such and such
>colors  then of course they would buy them.
>
>Well she said that right after I noticed the price on my stones. Now at
>this point I'm ready to kill this woman, yes I will admit, maim and hurt
>were my goal at the time. She then says "well I priced them down to see
>if we would sell more". My thoughts at the time (#@(*&^%$)!
>
>Now for customers that call me personally or e-mail me on the internet,
>you bet, I bend over backwards for them and of course offer any color
>they want.
>
>She explained to me that her thinking on the price was due to the fact
>that the area had a small craft show a couple weeks back. Now a lady at
>the craft show was selling her stones for $22.00 each. First of all the
>lady at the craft show is on her own, she is not charging herself a
>commission price I tell my friend. Second, I'm not that lady. I couldn't
>say anymore than that at this point in the game, I was a tad unnerved.
>
>Don't get me wrong bungians, I love feedback, criticism etc. This is
>what I believe makes us successful, customer comments about my products
>I value. Currently I have about 9 different colors in her shop, 25
>stones that all have different colored glass. There is a great selection
>there. I can think of 10 million different colors I could put down there
>too. Ended up bringing 8 stones home, it was 9 but one got stolen out of
>the truck when we stopped at a gift shop, good grief, can you imagine
>lugging a stolen stepping stone around town! I know, should have kept an
>eye on them, but was more interested in keeping my eye on my hormonal
>girls at the time.
>
>The number of items I have in her shop I'm comfortable with. and I do
>like the advertising. I believe I made it clear to her price changing is
>not a good idea, and I'm putting that mildly.
>
>
>Now, my daughter and her friend have a beautiful display in blue pine.
>The agreement my friend made with the girls was to do commission at 10%.
>The girls unload their products which I might add are, highly
>professional looking the type of jewelry kids today "die over". After we
>have unloaded all of our products and get back in the truck my daughter
>proceeds to tell me that my friend is charging them 25% in commission,
>still very low yes, but the girls priced all of their products at the
>10% commission rate. So they just lost 15% walking into the shop.
>
>Now for a first business experience I wanted the girls to have a good
>one and learn some things. Yes this is a positive learning experience
>for them I agree. And they have definitely learned a good business
>lesson here. Did I go back into the shop and confront my friend with the
>commission issue? No. I forced myself to remember that I am respectful,
>I am a lady and I will not kill in daylight hours.
>
>I'm being very patient with her as a new business owner. I guess my one
>comment to make to people who are considering consignment would be this.
>
>Ask the business owner questions on their business experience,
>practices, goals etc. Be as informed as you can be going into the shop.
>Keep in contact with the business owner and check on your products. And
>trust your instincts.
>
>Now if you have all made it through to the end of this very long post.
>Then I can't wait to hear your comments, I know they will always be
>helpful and honest.
>
>To Cheryl and Shirley, ( fellow bungians), I thank you again for your
>personal help on this matter and the good advice.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Pam
>
>--------------03B53BFD491334BDB5AD6B17
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>n:              Burns-Tappan;Pamela 
>org:            Moswood Mountain Limited
>adr:
http://www.pacifier.com/~ptap/index.html;;http://www.pacifier.com/~ptap/arti
sts.html;;;;USA
>email;internet: ptap@pacifier.com
>title:          President
>x-mozilla-cpt:  ;0
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>end:            vcard
>
>
>--------------03B53BFD491334BDB5AD6B17--
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 09:41:49 1998
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From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:51:38 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199807211451.KAA04083@water.waterw.com>
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Well here is "alittle" advise.............if you want to teach this class
............Do it!!!!!
If your "friend" does not support you.............Look for another friend.

Here is the kid gloves version.............

Tell your friend about this venture.  Make her as excited about it
as your are.  If she is a true friend she will help you in anyway she can.
Ask her advice on everything. And be up front.  Tell her you are going to
sell supplies to students.  That way she can never say your weren't honest
with her.

And tell her that competition is good for the soul.  Apparently she doesn't
think it is.



my best,
pj  (who thinks the word friend is used to loosely in this world.)



>I need alittle advise.  I know this sounds silly, but I have a chance to
>explore teaching and selling products.  This sounds great right.  Well I
>am very good friends with the owner of the only glass shop in the area. 
>She makes comments about other shops putting glass in there window and
>how awful she thinks that is and how they should stay out of her
>business.  A person approached me about teaching classes at his
>business.  I would love to do this, but I know my friend will have a
>fit.  Do I try and incorporate her shop into my class, for example, send
>everyone to her shop for glass etc or do I just set it up and say its a
>free country.  Do you see my problem.  If I set it up myself then I can
>profit from selling materials on my own.  Any suggestions would be
>appreciated.
>Sue
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 09:58:04 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:53:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.65352.0>
References: <<1998Jul21.22040.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:
> 
> A weird thing happened this afternoon when I went to put copper patina on a
> couple of finished pieces. Freshly soldered, washed (with ordinary liquid
> dishwashing soap - Sunlight, I think), thoroughly rinsed & dried, and I was
> using a new bottle of patina (only used once before, a couple of weeks ago,
> and worked fine then) and a clean cotton rag... and the result was a patchy,
> scuzzy, skanky, uneven mix of not-too-bright copper and corrosion that took a
> hell of a lot of scrubbing with a toothbrush and then more scrubbing with a
> lot of Kem-O-Pro to get looking even marginal.
> 
> Anybody have any idea why it did that? Suggestions on cleaning it up?
> 
> Sparks
> ----
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eliminating the cleaning technique. i would point out the solder, the
tip (clean), or the flux. did you by any chance use flux remover (that
stuff is impossible to remove and can cause this.

did you dip in the the patina bottle the last time? if so that's a
no-no. that will contaminate the bottle, and pretty much ruin it, which
can also make out like you described.

did you shake the bottle before you used it? sometimes it can settle.
inland (the older ones anyway), tend to do this. novacan, as far as i
know, does'nt settle. but i shake it anyway.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:01:18 1998
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Oh what a nightmare-update
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:58:26 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.145826.0>
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Hi Pam,

Well, for starters, I'd like to commend you for not wringing her neck like a
scrawny chicken when you saw the mark down!  I'm not sure I could have kept my
composure as completely as you did considering the sheer number of stupid
things this woman said to you.  It also seemed very smart to pull your other
stones out of there before she gives them away as door prizes to idiotic
tourists who want everything to match their couch!  

As for the hormonal 12 year olds (I have one myself!), I'll bet they're just
thrilled to have a place where they can sell their wares and don't care much
about the 25%, do they?  I know mine wouldn't and she's also really, really
good at making the hemp and bead jewelry.  I would bring it up with your
friend though.  How are these girls going to learn that your word means
something if their first business venture starts out this way?  Maybe there's
another store that would like their attractive display and they could make
their point by going elsewhere if she doesn't honor her word.  

All the way around here, she sounds like bad news with whom to be doing
business.  Maybe she's good as a friend, but you've given her a chance and I'd
be very leary of doing further business with her.  It may look good in her
store but isn't there another place where they'd look just as good and you
wouldn't have to worry about what she was doing with your work?

Just my opinion,

Susie
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:08:24 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Norman & Claudette Jaramillo <cpjaram@7cities.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Bad Patina Day
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 11:00:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.7011.0>
References: <<1998Jul20.13946.0>>
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Norman & Claudette Jaramillo wrote:
> 
> I have had that problem this summer too, with copper.  I thought at the
> time, I did not wash the flux off well.  I also used dish liquid.  Some one
> told me to use "Simple Green" which is a cleaning liquid on my soldering.  I
> haven't bought any, but I have paid better attention to washing my
> soldering, and it hasn't recurred.   I am still not convinced what caused
> it, and how to avoid it?
> 
> ----
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i probably would'nt use simple green. i never used it in that way, but
through my experiences it does'nt totally leave the surface, and will
probably attack the patina. 

use the baking soda - joy mixture, just a drop or two is needed. scrub
it in. it could be hard water, that may not let the soap to completly
wash off.

oh yeah, make sure the soap is the clear kind, not the solid kind. the
solid kind almost always has some kind of hand lotion in it. and will
most likely stick to your solder.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:17:52 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: BRIDE' WEBB <gatehous@7cities.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Copper Patina finishes.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 11:02:50 -0400
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BRIDE' WEBB wrote:
> 
> I've been using more copper patina lately, but though the finishing
> compound buffs up and shines the  copper patina beautifully, once it is
> exposed to direct sunlight and I suppose the heat I have several pieces
> change to almost a brass looking finish.  Does anyone know of a way to
> prevent this from happening?  My black and silver finishes  haven't changed
> at all, only the copper.  Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, Bride'    e-mail.....gatehous@7cities.net
> ----
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copper always changes, it depends on the make of the patina. 

novacan - turns from shiny penny copper, to dull copper, to brown, to
black. 

jax - is very difficult to put on. but once it's copper, it stay looking
like new for a very long time. i have a piece that i made about 6 years
ago, and the copper is still pretty shiny. 

i don't know how the other patinaes look after a while.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:37:20 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re:Oh what a nightmare-update
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:46:44 -0700 (PDT)
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>
>>Hi Pam,
>I'd be very upset also.
>Seems this woman has alot to learn, but it shouldn't be at your expense.
>Marking down items without your okay doesn't make it in my books!
>Infact I don't think your items have been in there long enough yet to be
marking down.
>Which I would think about...
>Usually if something doesn't sell I'll remove, but not mark down. On a few
ocassions I have marked down, but that's rare. (my stuff is in a gallery
here and mark downs don't look good, chuckle)
>I had a piece in there...native raven window hanger in smoked window glass
etched...thought would never sell (don't know why really as I have one at
home and looks appealling) anyhow it did sell finially after what I think
could have been a year.
>Usually I'll get antsy after 6 months maybe 9, but am always told to slow
down and wait longer before pulling a piece.
>The drift here is additude, and I think this woman's additude stinks.
>Now you know your work is good!!! Heck their stealing it out of your car!!
>And from the sounds of it 22 bucks is way too low.
>Watch your stuff with this woman. She shouldn't be calling the shots on
your work.
>My heart goes to you, lady!!
>Smiles, Cindy
>
>
>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:39:59 1998
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Amsterdam
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:09:18 PDT
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Hi,

Planning to get to Amsterdam sometime in the middle of August.  My
husband will be going on business and I am definately not missing it!
Any of you folks living there?  Anywhere in particular I should visit?


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:56:28 1998
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From: TWLARRY@cybersol.com (Nordhoff, Larry)
To: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 12:34:41 -0400
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References: <<1998Jul21.14945.0>>
Organization: Trade Winds
Precedence: bulk

Sue Prullage wrote:
> 
> I need alittle advise.  I know this sounds silly, but I have a chance to
> explore teaching and selling products.  This sounds great right.  Well I
> am very good friends with the owner of the only glass shop in the area.
> She makes comments about other shops putting glass in there window and
> how awful she thinks that is and how they should stay out of her
> business.  A person approached me about teaching classes at his
> business.  I would love to do this, but I know my friend will have a
> fit.  Do I try and incorporate her shop into my class, for example, send
> everyone to her shop for glass etc or do I just set it up and say its a
> free country.  Do you see my problem.  If I set it up myself then I can
> profit from selling materials on my own.  Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.
> Sue
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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Hi Sue,
I think you should promote yourself by teaching the class and selling
materials too.  If want to mention that your friend has some things that
you do not offer this would be a good way to smooth ruffeled feathers.

Competition is what this country is built on.  It sounds like your
friend needs to learn this.  She should not worry about what other shops
offer, if her prices are fair and service is good people will continue
to trade with her.

I have a bead shop in combination with antiques.  I often send people to 
a shop 20 miles away because I know she has colector beads that I don't
have. I haven't lost a coustomer yet and they thank me for sending them
to the other shop.  I have even gotten calls from the other shop
thanking me for sending someone their way.

When you go to a show many people offer the same products.  Display is
what draw people to your booth.  Once they are in your booth personality
and price become a factor.

Good luck with your classes.
TW LARRY
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 10:58:29 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: YOUR WORK!
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:48:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.24851.0>
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your work, you set the price...........un-acceptable.......move it!

If I relied on pricing my work with  to compete with the crap from the 3 and
4 world countries....I would clear less than $.02 per hour.

SET YOUR PRICE....if you are too high, do it better, faster or find another
item to produce.
A store that has empty shelves or no suppliers soon becomes a
McDonalds....ok,though, have had stock in MCD for years!

Working with "friends" who do not have a clue is a recipe for
disaster.....Who do you think would be the last person to get paid (if at
all) if  finances become tight. Surely a "friend" would understand!

Enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 11:00:43 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Water Pik on Grinder???
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 13:19:28 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.171928.0>
Precedence: bulk

I bet if you set up the grinder and water pik on a foot pedal you could get
both to come on at the same time.
deb
In a message dated 98-07-20 17:44:05 EDT, you write:

> >(also getting ready to rig up a Water Pik to feed
>  >water to the drill bit on my grinder...
>  
>  Hmmmm... this sounds very interesting.  The "automatic" water feed on my
>  grinder never works to my satisfaction and the sponge  is frustrating.
>  Would you be willing to share how you plan to rig this up?  Would this
>  work for the grinding bits as well?

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 11:37:48 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Oh what a nightmare-update
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 13:57:29 +0000
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> friend though.  How are these girls going to learn that your word means
> something if their first business venture starts out this way? 

Seems to me they just learned a very important lesson: get it in 
writing,  especially where friends/family are concerned. That's being 
businesslike. They also learned skepticism pays. <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 12:11:53 1998
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X-Path: tm.net.my!shakeel
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Sue Prullage" <stepsue@ezl.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 02:16:22 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.101622.0>
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Try to explain your friend the merit of healthy competition.

Anyway Sue, one can't stop progress for fear of offending some, the morne.
Look at it from another view, if you are going to teach, then your are
creating your own customers, you are not stealing any of your friend's. In
the course of time it may happen that some of her regulars may come to you,
but then it may also happen that some of yours may go to her.

It is a delicate issue, certainly, but I would say go for it. The more you
earn, the more you will be able to spend on your art, with more money you
will be able to experiment with stained glass and that would be good to the
whole of Stained Glass community.

That is opinion. I look forward to hear what you have decided in the nd.
Just Started Home Page: Visit if you have nothing else to do.
But docome back, things certainly will change.
Planning on adding photos of myself, studio and some works.
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my
-----Original Message-----
From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 10:35 PM
Subject: friendship vs glass


>I need alittle advise.  I know this sounds silly, but I have a chance to
>explore teaching and selling products.  This sounds great right.  Well I
>am very good friends with the owner of the only glass shop in the area.
>She makes comments about other shops putting glass in there window and
>how awful she thinks that is and how they should stay out of her
>business.  A person approached me about teaching classes at his
>business.  I would love to do this, but I know my friend will have a
>fit.  Do I try and incorporate her shop into my class, for example, send
>everyone to her shop for glass etc or do I just set it up and say its a
>free country.  Do you see my problem.  If I set it up myself then I can
>profit from selling materials on my own.  Any suggestions would be
>appreciated.
>Sue
>----
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>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 12:31:25 1998
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X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Glass Suppliers I need your help.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 14:56:52 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199807211856.OAA15741@water.waterw.com>
Precedence: bulk

We are in need of 6 sheets of 1/16" float glass Dichroic single weight that
transmits a medium to dark blue and reflects magenta. Not a light baby blue.
We are also in need of 3 sheets of 1/8" float glass Dichroic that transmits
red (and I mean blood red....not orange) and reflects cyan.

If anyone out there has this in stock or knows of where I can find this
and not in six weeks but now please email me ASAP.

Thank you all in advance.

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 13:05:24 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!Mosfunland
From: <Mosfunland@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 15:30:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.193040.0>
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Go ahead and dive into the water!    Life is too short.  Start your business,
teach, enjoy yourself.   We meet lots of different people throughout our
lives; some become lifelong acquaintences, some become friends for life.  

People change, situations change,  our lives change suddenly without our
permission.  You have to be comfortable with your decisions because they will
impact on your life.  And you know what.......don't project, it won't get you
anywhere and it really does more harm then good.  It's Ok if your friend feels
threatened...they'll get over it...it isn't about her, its about you.  

Go for it.
Maureen
mosfunland@aol.com

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 13:35:27 1998
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: Norman & Claudette Jaramillo <cpjaram@7cities.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pattern Book
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 15:53:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.115336.0>
References: <<1998Jul11.23421.0>>
Organization: The Stained Glass Place
Precedence: bulk

Am a little late with this, but just getting caught up from the trade
show in Houston. There was a discussion on publishing in the class I
took, and thanks to Nancy Willamon, A. Marsden-Plum Gully, Gil Reynolds
and Debbie Oxley, I learned some interesting things. They highly
recommend doing your own publishing if possible, but as a second choice,
CKE publishes patterns, along with GPQ. Might want to check with them on
procedures.
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 17:35:46 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: More glass/more artists
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 18:59:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.145912.0>
Precedence: bulk

Albert says:

"The more glass and glass =

outlets there are, the more the =

consciousness of the public =

is raised and the more glass
is appreciated." =


Amen.  Haven't you ever noticed
how antique stores seem to =

congregate by the dozens?  The
owners are smart - they know that
lots of folks will drive hundreds of
miles to visit twenty shops.... but,
few will do that to visit just one.  Glass
shops need to develop the same =

kind of business savvy.  =


And, of course, the added benefit is
the quality of work that results when
we have a little healthy competition!
It doesn't hurt any of us to reach for
the best instead of staying mired in
our own comfortable little niches.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/greer/   =

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 18:00:13 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!MISGLAS
From: <MISGLAS@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: New in town
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 20:25:36 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.02536.0>
Precedence: bulk

I recently relocated to a different state. (I'm a trailing spouse) Have been
doing glass for 10 yrs as a hobby and therapy while working in corporate
america and don't want to go back to that arena ever again.  I want to expand
my glass art into a real business. I can teach but don't know if I want to go
that way.   I'm in a pretty artsy area (Madison, Wisconsin) Any suggestions
from the group on how to proceed? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
I really enjoy this group and have learned alot of "tips".
Also check out my website.  I know it needs work, but it sure was fun to
create.  I want to expand in that area as well.
http://members.aol.com/misglas/index.htm
Thanks all. Kathi Poyneer
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 18:31:44 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 17:52:47 -0700 (PDT)
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>
>Hi Sue,
>Go for it!!!
>You can't please everyone, but you sure can please yourself.
>I know this may sound hard, but you might have to just toughen up against
those that don't like things!
>But what it boils down to is....if someone gets upset cause you are going
forwards that's unfortunatly their problem.
>Just go with your heart, you sound like a very nice person and I think you
should go forwards.

>Smiles, Cindy
>PS: If this is a real good friendship, maybe she should be happy for you
and not upset. 
>
>>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 19:03:47 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!BMarhon
From: <BMarhon@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Oh what a nightmare-update
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 21:06:17 EDT
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In a message dated 7/21/98 1:02:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SusieHUs@aol.com
writes:

<< All the way around here, she sounds like bad news with whom to be doing
 business. >>

I couldn't agree more!  And you get my vote on the next round of sainthood for
keeping your cool even slightly.  I'd write this place off and look for
somewhere else to sell my stuff that is more professionally (or at least
honestly) run.

Brenda
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 19:13:51 1998
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From: <BMarhon@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: friendship vs glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 21:13:24 EDT
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In a message dated 7/21/98 3:14:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, shakeel@tm.net.my
writes:

<< if you are going to teach, then your are
 creating your own customers, you are not stealing any of your friend's.  >>

He's right - I hadn't thought of it that way.

Go for it!
Brenda
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 19:53:02 1998
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X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hartley Wood 
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 02:02:22 +0000
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Precedence: bulk

Hello EliZabeth, et al

The old Hartley-Wood site is gone (... a housing association sounds 
about right...). "The Glass Centre" in Sunderland opened about 3 
weeks ago and is now in full swing. I certainly want to visit it 
myself. I also feel, the earlier the better, while they've got their 
"early enthusiasm" up and running and before they become 
complacent.... I think you know what I mean....
They currently have a "Complete Display" of HW glass -, whatever this 
means. The ex-employees are - I understand - in deed currently based 
at The Glass Centre. But I don't know how permanent this is. 

One of my students went for a "glass-blowing week-end" there, shortly 
after the opening. He loved every minute of it and brought  proudly 
the resultant product to show me. He had also taken his wife, who was 
made to join up a "lead stained glass class". My student was highly 
amused at her initial horror of the fact that she actually was 
expected to CUT glass.....

I have all the blurb about the Sunderland Glass Centre. Any of you in 
UK interested, send me an e-mail off group and I'll post it to you ,
though I have an idea that I have already sent you  info some months 
ago. I have your snail-mail addresses (unless there are NEW UK 
Bunginians lurking, that I don't know about).

By the way,  She-Who-Is-Omnipotent-And-Must-Be-Obeyed (i.e. Glenna 
Rand) is coming over to Europe with Dave.
I am trying to sweet-talk her to make a little detour to UK from 
Amsterdam  middle of August.  I intend to hound all of you 
individually for some kind of get-together which I'll be delighted to 
host..... Any initial suggestions..??

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK






 At 00:43 21/07/98 +0000, EliSabeth wrote:
>UK Hartley-Woood Glass, by the way - is shortly to be "resurrected". 
>About 4 of the original Hartley-Wood experts have joined


EliZabeth in Bournemouth wrote:
That would be terrific if they were to carry on making the same quality of
glass that the original company did.  (snip)
We heard that the old site is going for housing development, so wonder if
the new company will be sited at the new glass centre in Sunderland which I
think is now open.
Have you had the chance to visit it?  We keep promising ourselves a trip
one day but never seem to have the time.
By the way, did your Australian students finish their 6 foot crocodile?

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 20:06:39 1998
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X-Path: i2020.net!wickline
From: "Robert G. and Rebecca T. Wickline" <wickline@i2020.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Nice glass people
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 21:53:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.175321.0>
Organization: Personal
Precedence: bulk

    Just got back from a trip from Va. to Wisc. and back.  Long drive.
While I was in Green Bay stopped in at a stained glass store called Glas
Haus.  I needed to find an address for Delphi that I had forgotten at
home.  Very nice person took time from her own work to find it for me
and then of course we discussed glass.
    Don't know if she is on line with us or not, but want to thank her
anyway for her help.  Glass people are really nice.  Maybe if she's not
on line this will get to her anyway.
    Unfortunately I ran out of time and didn't get to Delphi.  Thanks
anyway
            Becky

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 21 21:03:28 1998
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X-Path: email.msn.com!bird_cage
From: "Doug Parrott" <bird_cage@email.msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: help with trying to scan patterns for e-mail
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 20:21:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.13212.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I have been trying to scan some patterns I have to send to a friend on the
ArtGlass World bulletin board.  But I am having troubles.  It keeps scanning
them to 400%.  We have a hewellet packard scanjet 5p.  does anyone have any
suggestions on how to fix this. I have been playing with this for an hour
and can't figure it out.

thanks,

Cheryl Parrott



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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 02:52:41 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: help with trying to scan patterns for e-mail
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 05:19:11 +0000
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Precedence: bulk

 
> I have been trying to scan some patterns I have to send to a friend on the
> ArtGlass World bulletin board.  But I am having troubles.  It keeps scanning
> them to 400%. 

There should be a setting in the software that will allow you to 
change that. If not (I'm not familiar with the HP scanner and don't 
know what software you're using), you can download Paint Shop Pro at
http://www.download.com/PC/Result/TitleList/1,2,0-a-0-0-b-1,00.html?st
.dl.tdl.qs.results
and use it to resize (and a millyun other things) the scans.

It's shareware, which means you only pay for it if you decide to keep 
it, but it's on the honor system, so I guess you wouldn't have to, 
although I always do (buffing my nails on my ... er, robe at this 
point). <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 05:54:53 1998
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X-Path: tm.net.my!shakeel
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakeel@tm.net.my>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:21:08 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Jul23.4218.0>
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Folks

Been thinking of getting up the home page this weekend.

Anyone know where I can get the images and icons and bells & whistles I can
use to build the home page?

Thanks a lot in advance.


Just Started Home Page: Visit if you have nothing else to do.
But docome back, things certainly will change.
Planning on adding photos of myself, studio and some works.
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 06:15:08 1998
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X-Path: ezl.com!stepsue
From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Thanks for the support
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 07:36:00 -0600
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I appreciate all the support on my business adventure.  There were many
views I had not thought of and made me look at the whole thing in a
different light.  Thanks again, going to investigate alittle further,
but I really want to do this and probably will.  As one smart person
said "life is too short."  Sue
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 06:26:31 1998
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From: <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:07:25 EDT
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Mike asks:

> did you by any chance use flux remover (that stuff is
> impossible to remove and can cause this. 

Nope. Never heard of the stuff.

> did you dip in the the patina bottle the last time? 

Nope.

> did you shake the bottle before you used it?

Yup. (Force of habit, I tend to shake everything before I open it...
occasionally I have to stop myself from shaking a bottle of seltzer before I
open it =8-O )

I wondered myself if maybe it was the detergent - some of those are pretty
alkaline. I think I'll try some mild (non-conditioning) shampoo or something
like that next time and see if that works better. In the mean time, where
*did* I put that steel wool? Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 06:56:34 1998
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X-Path: csgrs6k4.uwaterloo.ca!dmg
From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re:Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:38:15 -0400
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References: <<1998Jul23.4218.0>>
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Shakeel Abedi twists the bytes to say:

 Shakeel> Folks
 Shakeel> Been thinking of getting up the home page this weekend.

 Shakeel> Anyone know where I can get the images and icons and bells & whistles I can
 Shakeel> use to build the home page?

 Shakeel> Thanks a lot in advance.

I know this is going to be arguable, but here I go.  

With all the respect, Shakeel, icons and images not related to your
content are only distracting and make pages too busy.

Concentrate in the content --that is what makes a page important-- and
then add visual impact that you're looking for. Mike's page is good
not because the visual effect that the pages have, rather, because it
is loaded with information. 


My two canadian cents.


--
Daniel M. German
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 07:27:28 1998
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From: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Forwarded Question: obscuring white
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 20:22:20 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul21.142220.0>
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Could anyone help this person?  I have never head of obscuring white.
thanks cj
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris De Koning <dekon@f1-help.on.ca>
To: cpjaram@7cities.net <cpjaram@7cities.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 7:23 PM
Subject: obscuring white


>Hi Claudette!
>
>This obscuring white is a term given to me by someone in the industry. What
>I am trying to achieve is almost
>exactly like calcium build up on a coffee pot. I have a turn of the century
>church window which has this tecnique
>on the inner diamonds. I think a substance is painted on then fired. I
>would appreciate any help.
>
>Thanks
>
>Christine
>
>dekon@f1-help.on.ca
>

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 07:46:12 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 07:13:30 -0700 (PDT)
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Sparks....did you get your electrical problem figured out yet?:):)
Try TSP first, find it at the hardware store...
Then go with your dish soap... like Joy.
Smiles, Cindy
>

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 07:54:29 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: mirrors and tremclad 
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 07:13:18 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199807221413.HAA23601@baby.vphos.net>
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Hi guys,
I'm rushing around the clock to get some last minute glass work done before
holidays...yesterday was jewelery boxes for a woman in Nazko.
I ran out of mirror flux for one box bottom, so I grab a can of spray...
thought it was a clear varathane...
But as it turned out it wasn't.....it's the new BBque paint I bought!
Heat resistant black tremclad!
So I went with it, it applied quite nicely...nice smooth finish on the back
side of the mirror. I continued once fully dried to foil and solder. 
Hey could this be a new product for glass work with mirrors?
The heat resistance part of it would be helpful:):)
And it seems to make solid contact to the back of the mirror.
Any comments...topic of the day??
I think it will work out fine...but let me know if anyone has tried this.. 
I leave next week.
Smiles, Cindy

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 07:59:41 1998
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From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 08:57:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.35740.0>
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Dear Fellow Glass workers,
I have tackled a big piece of stained glass. OK, not so big in size, 22"
x 33", but difficult for me anyway. It has almost 200 pieces. I have
selected the glass, traced the pattern onto poster board, numbered and
color coded, cut out, cut the zinc cam for boarders and by all rights I
should be ready to start cutting.Right?
Somehow I can't bring myself to put cutter to glass. I keep finding
things I should do before I start, like clean the shop, take inventory
of supplies, etc.. Finally, last night I decided I'm just plain scared.
I've only done one other lead project so my confidence is not very high
right now.
The project is for my son's new bathroom window and has koi, lilly pads
and water. I've selected blue baroque glass for the water and it will
take some planning to get the ripples just right.
Can you think of anything I've missed?
Tia
Nelda

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 08:17:01 1998
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X-Path: city-net.com!dany
From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Re:Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:21:07 -0400
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Shakeel,

>snip
> I know this is going to be arguable, but here I go.  
> 
> With all the respect, Shakeel, icons and images not related to your
> content are only distracting and make pages too busy.
> 
> Concentrate in the content --that is what makes a page important-- and
> then add visual impact that you're looking for. Mike's page is good
> not because the visual effect that the pages have, rather, because it
> is loaded with information. 

I believe having a little fun on your page is okay - especially if it's
related to what you are trying to say.  Like an animated mailbox to give
the user a place to send you a comment.  This address has some backgrounds
and animated icons: http://www.nzwwa.com/mirror/frontend/index.htm

Dany

Daniela Birkelbach
Software Consultant
dany@city-net.com             http://www.city-net.com/~dany
*********************************************************************
Many new pictures up on my Stained Glass Pages.
Please come and visit!
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 08:24:41 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:38:38 +0000
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> With all the respect, Shakeel, icons and images not related to your
> content are only distracting and make pages too busy.

I agree, Daniel. For instance, on the new site I'm developing for Pat 
Topp, I turned some of her work into the buttons. Take a look at
http://www.diacca.com/

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 08:42:05 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: tsp Was:having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 98 07:54:24 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yz0Hh-000LkTC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<199807221413.HAA23050@baby.vphos.net>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Sparks....did you get your electrical problem figured out yet?:):)
> Try TSP first, find it at the hardware store...
> Then go with your dish soap... like Joy.
> Smiles, Cindy

tsp does a real bad job on your hands. be sure to wear gloves of some kind and  
watch out for spattering. there's also a tsp replacement, also called tsp but  
without the phosphate (how's that for false advertising) that works well too.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 08:58:44 1998
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Subject: removal
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:15:56 EDT
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Thanks for your assistance with my glass needs. As they were incidental, you
can remove me from your list.

Thanks,
Jane Pollak
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 09:21:37 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:19:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.71921.0>
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Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Mike asks:
> 
> > did you by any chance use flux remover (that stuff is
> > impossible to remove and can cause this.
> 
> Nope. Never heard of the stuff.
> 
> > did you dip in the the patina bottle the last time?
> 
> Nope.
> 
> > did you shake the bottle before you used it?
> 
> Yup. (Force of habit, I tend to shake everything before I open it...
> occasionally I have to stop myself from shaking a bottle of seltzer before I
> open it =8-O )
> 
> I wondered myself if maybe it was the detergent - some of those are pretty
> alkaline. I think I'll try some mild (non-conditioning) shampoo or something
> like that next time and see if that works better. In the mean time, where
> *did* I put that steel wool? Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!
> 
> Sparks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i heard that baby shampoo may work.. maybe your water turned hard over
night. perhaps due to a water main repair. or you could have simply
waited too long and the patina would'nt take for that reason.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 09:26:42 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Cindy Pesonen <cpesonen@bcinternet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: mirrors and tremclad
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:22:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.7222.0>
References: <<199807221413.HAA23601@baby.vphos.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Cindy Pesonen wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> I'm rushing around the clock to get some last minute glass work done before
> holidays...yesterday was jewelery boxes for a woman in Nazko.
> I ran out of mirror flux for one box bottom, so I grab a can of spray...
> thought it was a clear varathane...
> But as it turned out it wasn't.....it's the new BBque paint I bought!
> Heat resistant black tremclad!
> So I went with it, it applied quite nicely...nice smooth finish on the back
> side of the mirror. I continued once fully dried to foil and solder.
> Hey could this be a new product for glass work with mirrors?
> The heat resistance part of it would be helpful:):)
> And it seems to make solid contact to the back of the mirror.
> Any comments...topic of the day??
> I think it will work out fine...but let me know if anyone has tried this..
> I leave next week.
> Smiles, Cindy
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


primarily, it should work. mainly the mirror needs to be sealed one way
or another. if the mirror never got ground, chances are it may not
blacken, anyway... 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 09:49:39 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:25:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.72548.0>
References: <<1998Jul22.35740.0>>
Precedence: bulk

fibers wrote:
> 
> Dear Fellow Glass workers,
> I have tackled a big piece of stained glass. OK, not so big in size, 22"
> x 33", but difficult for me anyway. It has almost 200 pieces. I have
> selected the glass, traced the pattern onto poster board, numbered and
> color coded, cut out, cut the zinc cam for boarders and by all rights I
> should be ready to start cutting.Right?
> Somehow I can't bring myself to put cutter to glass. I keep finding
> things I should do before I start, like clean the shop, take inventory
> of supplies, etc.. Finally, last night I decided I'm just plain scared.
> I've only done one other lead project so my confidence is not very high
> right now.
> The project is for my son's new bathroom window and has koi, lilly pads
> and water. I've selected blue baroque glass for the water and it will
> take some planning to get the ripples just right.
> Can you think of anything I've missed?
> Tia
> Nelda
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


there's one easy trick that i do. alot of my pieces are now over
300-2500. do one piece at a time... simple as that. don't think of the
entire project, or how long it's going to take you to complete it
(especially if it's not a rush project).

make a piece, do another, and another, and another. one more piece done
now, is one less piece you'll have to do tommorow. though i hav'nt
started it yet, my sky city project is up to around 2100 pieces, and
that's just the shade (which still is'nt done design wise).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 09:58:19 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: obscuring white
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:05:02 +0000
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> >This obscuring white is a term given to me by someone in the industry. What
> >I am trying to achieve is almost
> >exactly like calcium build up on a coffee pot. I have a turn of the century
> >church window which has this tecnique
> >on the inner diamonds. I think a substance is painted on then fired. I
> >would appreciate any help.

Julie Sloan of Cummings Studios says it's called "opaquing white" and 
that it's available from Reusche:

Reusche & Co. of T.W.S., Inc., 1299 H Street, Greeley CO 80631.
                      Phone: (970) 346-8577. Fax: (970) 346-8575. 

                           Paint, painting kits, manufacturer. Paint
                           brushes, fusing and painting enamels. 

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 10:22:11 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:11:08 -0700 (PDT)
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>Hi Nelda,
I've been doing glass for 17 years now....and I can tell you I've been in
those shoes...
For some reason this can happen, not to worry you'll get up and over the rock.

Sounds like a beauitful window!

Take your time with it, to feel comfortable...if time isn't important.
While working stop for just a short while... then come back to it and
re-examine the progress.
I do that if not sure on colors....the hardest for me this year was
determining colors for a motorcycle engine.
Best advise is to enjoy it.
Sometimes we all feel this way, and sometimes we might do things different
the next time, but this is now and have fun.
Smiles, Cindy 
>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 10:22:11 1998
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Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 12:39:56 EDT
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Daniel says to Shakeel:

> With all the respect, Shakeel, icons and images not
> related to your content are only distracting and make
> pages too busy.

I agree 100%, and I would add that another big no-no is

COLORED BACKGROUNDS

especially dark-colored or patterned ones. Lots of people who design their own
pages on color screens tend to go hog-wild, forgetting that some folks are
still in the stone age with B&W or grayscale monitors and 28.8 modems and non-
frame browsers, and I can say from experience that the result is a page that
takes several minutes to load (and looks like a mass of black because the
background obscures the text), or doesn't load at all.

(My brother the computer graphic designer says, "A lot of beginners do that.
They figure, 'I've got [color, sound, movie, or whatever], therefore I *have*
to use it.' They try to 'wow' people and forget that they're supposed to be
trying to *communicate.*")

If you *must* create a pull-out-all-the-stops fancy-schmancy page, at the same
time you need to build the same page in good old plain-black-text-on-white
HTML with pictures in ordinary JPEG of GIF or whatever. Better yet, your
"index" page should always be no-frills HTML with maybe one picture as a
"teaser" - save the fancies for pages 2 through ???, and indicate on your main
index that you need frame and color capability to go to such-and-such pages.

The main thing to remember is, you want to *display* your glasswork, not
upstage it with your programming ability. Take a look at several art-show or
museum catalogs. The text is always unobtrusive, and the pictures either take
up entire pages or if they're 2 to a page they're surrounded by sizeable white
space so the pictures don't fight with each other. You just about can't go
wrong following their lead.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 10:30:39 1998
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From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, cpjaram@7cities.net
Subject: Forwarded Question: obscuring white
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 12:55:06, -0500
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>>>This obscuring white is a term given to me by someone in the 
industry. What
>I am trying to achieve is almost
>exactly like calcium build up on a coffee pot. I have a turn of the 
century
>church window which has this tecnique
>on the inner diamonds. I think a substance is painted on then fired. 
I
>would appreciate any help.
>
>Thanks
><<

Obsecuring white is a standard product carried in both the Reusche 
(two shades) and Fusemaster lines.
These are classic fire paints.  Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*US Navy retired, please pay your taxes promptly.*
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 11:05:02 1998
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To: "Norman & Claudette Jaramillo" <cpjaram@7cities.net>,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Forwarded Question: obscuring white
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At 20:22 21/07/98 -0600, cj wrote:
>Could anyone help this person?  I have never head of obscuring white.
>thanks cj

In their book "Stained Glass Painting, the Isenbergs mention this as follows
<<The Tiffany painters employ, generally, an obscuring white paint for
background use.  This is a basic ground for the Tiffany head style in
particular.  This base of obscuring white paint diffuses or obscures the
light coming through the glass, thus forming a translucent backdrop.  Other
enamel colours are then added over this obscuring white to get the true
tiffany effect.  A translucent glass of similar colour does not give nearly
the same blend as the paint, which, after all, can be applied arbitrarily.
Tiffany artists often doubleglaze (plate) glass behind their
semi-transparent foreground glass.
A few of the Tiffany style painters ... preferred painting over the
obscuring white paint to using a piece of opaque glass as they got a "better
bite" with their tracing brush from the more substantive surface furnished
by the background paint.>>

They do not state whether the white paint is fired before painting over it,
but I think I would be happier painting over a fired paint than unfired in
case of mistakes.

Although I've never used it myself, we do sell a white shading paint
(amongst other colours) to some of our customers who use it to tone down a
piece of glass where needed.

Hope this helps.
Elizabeth Law (Bournemouth Stained Glass)
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 11:30:44 1998
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From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, cpesonen@bcinternet.net
Subject: mirrors and tremclad 
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:03:29, -0500
Message-ID: <199807221703.NAA16242@mime3.prodigy.com>
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>>I ran out of mirror flux for one box bottom, so I grab a can of 
spray...
thought it was a clear varathane...
But as it turned out it wasn't.....it's the new BBque paint I 
bought!
Heat resistant black tremclad!
So I went with it, it applied quite nicely...nice smooth finish on 
the back
side of the mirror. I continued once fully dried to foil and solder. 

Hey could this be a new product for glass work with mirrors?
The heat resistance part of it would be helpful:):)
And it seems to make solid contact to the back of the mirror.
Any comments...topic of the day??
I think it will work out fine...but let me know if anyone has tried 
this.. 
I leave next week.
Smiles, Cindy<<

I think you may be onto something. Having said that, I would suggest 
that it would be good to test a new product for say at least six 
weeks before using it on a project. Never can tell, it might eat 
mirror silvering. Oh what a wet rag I am today, Bob


____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*US Navy retired, please pay your taxes promptly.*
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 11:51:07 1998
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From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 12:25:46 CST 6CDT
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Nelda--

Koi, lily pads & water?  Sounds kinda like the CKE Water Minuet 
pattern.  Been there, done that.  See bungi gallery at:

http://csg.uwaterloo.ca:80/~dmg/glass/gallery.

I used bullseye for the fish and the lilypads--expensive but really 
nice.  The stuff I used for the water was blue and green and heavily 
rippled.  If I was doing it again, I would use something with less 
texture (I used copper foil and it was a major headache foiling those 
*@#$ ripples!).  It was also hard to cut the long thin pieces--I 
consider myself a pretty decent cutter, but it took multiple 
attempts on some of those.

As far as tackling a big project, I try to think of it in smaller 
sections.  And although I usually start with the most difficult 
parts, on a big project it helps to start with the easier stuff (to 
build confidence, momentum & enthusiasm).  

Kaye    
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 12:40:01 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:02:45 -0400
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Please remove me from the list,,,,,,,,,,,,,,for a few days.

Thanks,,JW

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 12:57:47 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:39:37 +0000
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> I agree 100%, and I would add that another big no-no is
> 
> COLORED BACKGROUNDS

Especially if you then use white type so it's readable on-screen, 
then expect them to print out something useful. The white type 
prints, all right, but white on white is hard to read. <s> And the 
background won't print at all, so there you are: white paper.

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 13:09:11 1998
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Subject: Re: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:55:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.85516.0>
References: <<35B62C3B.BC98139C@erols.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, Nadine, I understand what you mean about cutting the "way they lay".I'm
starting in the lower left hand corner and it is the 'water'. After reading
your post, I've gone back and repositioned the pattern pieces and it looks
so much better. Maybe that's just what I needed to get started. At any rate,
I've cut the first pieces. They look good and I anxious to get going on the
rest of it.

Thanks to all of you for the encouragement you offered. It's so nice  to
have a group to depend on when you are the only one you know who does
stained glass.
Nelda


Nadine Beth Schneider wrote:

> Hi Nelda. . .
>
> Take a deep breath and begin.  The glass won't bite back!  I've used
> cobalt baroque for water before and it has always come out beautiful.
> Are you going to cut it out continuously?  I find it looks best when all
> the pieces are cut from a sheet in order that they lay.  This is a
> little confusing. . do you know what I mean?  So that all the lines flow
> the way they do when it is whole.  Anyway....good luck!
>                                               Nadine
>
> > Dear Fellow Glass workers,
> > I have tackled a big piece of stained glass. OK, not so big in size,
> > 22"
> > x 33", but difficult for me anyway. It has almost 200 pieces. I have
> > selected the glass, traced the pattern onto poster board, numbered and
> >
> > color coded, cut out, cut the zinc cam for boarders and by all rights
> > I
> > should be ready to start cutting.Right?
> > Somehow I can't bring myself to put cutter to glass. I keep finding
> > things I should do before I start, like clean the shop, take inventory
> >
> > of supplies, etc.. Finally, last night I decided I'm just plain
> > scared.
> > I've only done one other lead project so my confidence is not very
> > high
> > right now.
> > The project is for my son's new bathroom window and has koi, lilly
> > pads
> > and water. I've selected blue baroque glass for the water and it will
> > take some planning to get the ripples just right.
> > Can you think of anything I've missed?
> > Tia
> > Nelda
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 13:44:36 1998
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From: "Lynn Alchin" <crzylynna@email.msn.com>
To: "fibers" <fibers@wcnet.net>,
Subject: Re: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:44:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.24427.0>
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Hi Tia;
There are those times when my confidence has escaped out the window
also... I have had a friend for 11 years, and we worked on glass
together all the time. Now I live in Arizona & she is back in
Pennsylvania, and whenever I seem to start a new commission job, I go &
work in the garden & re-arrange my glass shelves- do inventory of my
glass- go to the distributors to buy more...
Then I call Judy. I'm not sure what it is she's says to me, but somehow,
after that phone call, I start to cut. She just has a way of saying-
stop thinking & start cutting.
Tia- I know that this really isn't the kind of input that you probably
wanted to hear, but I just wanted to let you know that I go thru the
same thing, and it will be all right. Just cut that first piece!!
Good luck to you, I'm sure you'll be fine. Sounds to me like you have
the bases covered.

Lynn




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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 14:16:11 1998
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From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Grozing
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:42:46 CST 6CDT
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"Grozing" is a concept which I have never really understood.  I 
use my grozers for breaking scores close to the edge of the glass, 
(sometimes with less than satisfactory results), but beyond that....?

Can somebody please explain "grozing?"  I gather it has something to 
do with "nibbling" away the glass, but when, why (and how) does one 
"groze?"  

Kaye 
 
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 14:42:40 1998
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Subject: lampshade problem
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:48:33 -0400 (EDT)
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I have a glass problem that makes me mad every time 
I think about it.  I am building a Cattail lamp shade 
and I am almost finished with it.  The problem is that I 
have stupidly used two different blues as background colors
for the cattails.  The blues look exactly the same in reflected
light, but one of them transmits more light than the other.
When they are back-lit they look very different (even to my
colorblind eyes!).  It would be OK if the blues were separated
on the shade, but they are mixed pretty much randomly among 
the background.  I didn't discover this until I had the shade
soldered together and I put it over a light to see how it looked.
Well, I was so sick I put the shade under a table where it sat
for the past five years.

My question, is there any way to salvage this shade without
taking it apart and redoing all the background?  I thought I 
might try painting the backs of the blue pieces so that
they would all have about the same transmittance.  Any other
ideas?

Thank you, and boy am I embarrassed

Russ Hilleke
hilleker@citadel.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 14:54:12 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Forwarded Question: obscuring white
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:51:59 +0000
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> They do not state whether the white paint is fired before painting over it,
> but I think I would be happier painting over a fired paint than unfired in
> case of mistakes.

Imagine all that painting going on in the work of Tiffany, who often 
bragged that he never used paint on glass, but achieved his studio's 
results with opalescent glass. That was, of course, mere braggadocio, 
since Tiffany Studios panels incorporate *lots of paint, sometimes 
astounding amounts of it. The famous "Peacock," for example, has a 
ton of paint on it ... which isn't to say it isn't a stunning piece 
of work.

> Although I've never used it myself, we do sell a white shading paint
> (amongst other colours) to some of our customers who use it to tone down a
> piece of glass where needed.

Even cold paint was (and is) often used for the same reason. I've 
seen panels "dirtied down" with black or brown so that they appear to 
be "old" ... or at least as old as those the new panel is joining. 
That must present a bit of a quandry when it comes time for 
restoration, since the original windows would be restored to their 
original (bright?) condition, while the new (dirtied) window would 
also be restored to its original ... voila! mismatch! <s>

I've also seen cold paint that had been (arguably)  intentionally 
applied by the artist to achieve certain effects removed (oh, I 
mangled this sentence) ... anyway, original paint was removed when it 
should have been left in place. It's always hard making distinctions 
and decisions like that during restoration, which is why it's so 
difficult, time-consuming and expensive, because it needs so much 
careful thought and research.

My 2c worth, anyway. Off soapbox.

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 15:26:37 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Kaye Sodt <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Grozing
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:40:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.134038.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Kaye Sodt wrote:
> 
> "Grozing" is a concept which I have never really understood.  I
> use my grozers for breaking scores close to the edge of the glass,
> (sometimes with less than satisfactory results), but beyond that....?
> 
> Can somebody please explain "grozing?"  I gather it has something to
> do with "nibbling" away the glass, but when, why (and how) does one
> "groze?"
> 
> Kaye
> 
> ----
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grozing really is'nt used as much since grinders became popular.
basically you flip you pliers over to the straight side. and then nip
little bits of the glass off. sometimes in a scraping motion. it's a bit
messy, but good to know, it saves some wear and tear on your grinder.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 16:10:55 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: HILLEKER@Citadel.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lampshade problem
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:44:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.14447.0>
References: <<1998Jul22.94833.0>>
Precedence: bulk

HILLEKER@Citadel.edu wrote:
> 
> I have a glass problem that makes me mad every time
> I think about it.  I am building a Cattail lamp shade
> and I am almost finished with it.  The problem is that I
> have stupidly used two different blues as background colors
> for the cattails.  The blues look exactly the same in reflected
> light, but one of them transmits more light than the other.
> When they are back-lit they look very different (even to my
> colorblind eyes!).  It would be OK if the blues were separated
> on the shade, but they are mixed pretty much randomly among
> the background.  I didn't discover this until I had the shade
> soldered together and I put it over a light to see how it looked.
> Well, I was so sick I put the shade under a table where it sat
> for the past five years.
> 
> My question, is there any way to salvage this shade without
> taking it apart and redoing all the background?  I thought I
> might try painting the backs of the blue pieces so that
> they would all have about the same transmittance.  Any other
> ideas?
> 
> Thank you, and boy am I embarrassed
> 
> Russ Hilleke
> hilleker@citadel.edu
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well, you could either leave it like that, and tell people that,
"that's  my artistic interprataion (sp?). or you can plate the lighter
colors with either another color, or the same color, so it's a little
darker.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 16:43:28 1998
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X-Path: flinet.com!kenneil
From: Ken Neil <kenneil@flinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Maltese dog pattern
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:35:45 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Anybody out there have a Maltese dog Pattern??  I already have the Dog gone
pattern book which has a Maltese in it, but I'm not to crazy about that
one.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks Brenda  ;-)

********************************************************************
		Been There........
				Done That!
Ken Neil
Jupiter, Florida
********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 18:11:10 1998
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From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Totally astonished
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:35:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.10358.0>
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I have been working the last two weeks trying to get myself motivated to
get product ready for this fair that opened today.  One of my hard fast
rules, is never do a fair.  But I had done a Christmas Show at the old
fair grounds and had been told that the fair was just like the christmas
show and the promoters were very good with the crafters.
The city just build a new fair and expo center and this is the first
year in the new facility.  So I thought great, new building, 5
days(killer hours) and only $65 fee.  What did I have to loose.
Got there this morning and we were in the 4-H building with the
chickens, ducks, rabbits, carnies, parrots(that were molting),
snakes(including a rattler that was unmaned), lizards, and house plants.
The place smelled like a cat litter box. 14 of the 18 crafter scheduled
showed up and STAYED.
I complained, got my money back, with an apology.  I also explained to
the new director what it is like to do crafts and how insulting that
was.   The sign out front the main enterance into the building was in
bright neon orange and it said Rabbits and Repitiles.  That right there
should let you know the people in charge were not thinking.  Why would
you put natural preditors together with their prey, let alone with
crafters.
I am still in total disbelief.  I literally feel numb.  Guess I am in
shock!!!!
Oh well, hopefully they took what I said(nicely) to heart and will
rememdy the process next year.
Just thought I would share that one with you all.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 19:14:07 1998
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From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Friendship vs Glass
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:25:19 -0500
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Sue et al,

I am a firm believer in friendship. However, I always think of an old quote
when "friends" are involved. " When the world walks out .... a friend walks
in". In this case do you think she would walk in? If not she is not a friend
she is an acquaintance. Using this definition I have had very few "friends"
and many acquaintances.

As far as the business end is concerned, when a customer tells you I'll buy
one in a different color, different style, etc., she should have gotten
their personal information, contacted you and had a "custom" piece. If the
customer really wanted the item they would say so.

My 2 cents worth.


Patrick
Roses and Rainbows



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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 19:34:45 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re:having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:29:57 -0400
Message-ID: <199807211429.KAA00518@csgrs6k4.uwaterloo.ca>
References: <<1998Jul21.22040.0>>
Precedence: bulk


Witchdoc3  twists the bytes to say:

 Witchdoc3> A weird thing happened this afternoon when I went to put copper patina on a
 Witchdoc3> couple of finished pieces. Freshly soldered, washed (with ordinary liquid
 Witchdoc3> dishwashing soap - Sunlight, I think), thoroughly rinsed & dried, and I was
 Witchdoc3> using a new bottle of patina (only used once before, a couple of weeks ago,
 Witchdoc3> and worked fine then) and a clean cotton rag... and the result was a patchy,
 Witchdoc3> scuzzy, skanky, uneven mix of not-too-bright copper and corrosion that took a
 Witchdoc3> hell of a lot of scrubbing with a toothbrush and then more scrubbing with a
 Witchdoc3> lot of Kem-O-Pro to get looking even marginal.

 Witchdoc3> Anybody have any idea why it did that? Suggestions on cleaning it up?

I am not an expert, but I have similar results after using the copper
patina. You then have to use some silicon based wax, polish it, and it
will look shiny and as copper (you probably have at this point a
reddish, brick-ish  colour).


I just came back from my "summer trips" and I am getting back to the
gallery. Please, those who I have not replied to, bear with me. :)

barefoot daniel



--
Daniel M. German                  "That the only purpose for
                                   which power can be rightfully exercised
                                   over any member of a civilized
                                   community, against his will,
                                   is to prevent harm to others.
                                   His own good, either physical
   John Stuart Mill ->             or moral, is not a sufficient warrant."
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 19:57:48 1998
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From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Backbone needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:00:22 -0500
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For large or complex projects ... its kind of like:

How do you eat an elephant ..... one bite at a time.

Try to think of small sections maybe 4" x 4".


Good Luck

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

PS. If you are still wanting to put it off, my garage is in desperate need
of cleaning. I have to slide sideways into it. Damn glass cuts all over my
belly.

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 20:17:15 1998
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From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: New in Town
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:36:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.153659.0>
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First things first. Get a good business plan. You can get find them on the
Internet. This will give you a solid basis for investment. Without it it's
is a guessing game. The Small Business Administration (USA) can assist you
to.

Good Luck

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 21:36:16 1998
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From: "scott floyd" <scottjf55@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re:grozing
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:23:06 PDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul23.1236.0>
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    I have always thought of grozing as using the plier with the little 
"teeth" to kinda pre grind the shards and reverse oyster shells off of 
the freshly broken piece of glass.  It saves from having to grind all 
those little sharp edges.  So it's like a file, you use the jaws to just 
"groze" the edge.  I have used grozing and no grinding for really big 
lead church window borders.

______________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 22 21:54:23 1998
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: Shakeel Abedi <shakeel@tm.net.my>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:12:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.18129.0>
References: <<1998Jul23.4218.0>>
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> Anyone know where I can get the images and icons and bells & whistles I can
> use to build the home page?

Search on Clip Art in Lycos or the like. You will find enough to
overwhelm you for weeks.

Hilary
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 01:09:27 1998
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From: Beadnik2@webtv.net (Joan)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Flash Venting
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 01:35:18 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Jul22.213518.0>
Precedence: bulk

Through posts on this newsgroup I have learned that by flash venting the
kiln I am, in effect, also tempering the glass.  This makes it difficult
to cut up fused sections or drill into it, so I am no longer flash
venting.  My question:

In the final firing, is there an advantage to flash venting, and
tempering, the glass.  Does it make the finished piece stronger or less
fragile? BTW, I am fusing small pieces in a Quik-Fire kiln to be used as
components in jewelry.

Thanks!

Joan

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 02:35:13 1998
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X-Path: bham.ac.uk!b.s.jones
From: "B. S. Jones" <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Summer time blues...back to glass, and weird tools
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 11:09:17 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Jul23.12917.0>
Precedence: bulk


Pathologically Resourceful Weirdo and Hardware Junkie that I am, I'm
thinking
about investing in a power conditioner/uninterruptible power source, say
a
200-watt one. It will be a hell of a lot cheaper than rewiring the
house, and
will let me keep working. (I'm generally not awake enough to solder in
the
morning.)

What my enquiring mind wants to know is: has anyone tried this? Anyone
have
any thoughts on the idea?

I just replaced all of our computer room UPS units here and when I
talked to the engineer who fitted them he mentioned just this. He lives
out in the sticks in the UK with ropy power supplies. Being priveleged
he had access to old big UPS units and has his whole house on UPS. The
mains goes directly into the ups. Obviously this is the ultimate method
but a small UPS..
cost 200 dollars would help a lot just to run a computer.

Brandon S. Jones
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 03:34:02 1998
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From: "B. S. Jones" <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 11:48:36 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Jul23.124836.0>
Precedence: bulk



A weird thing happened this afternoon when I went to put copper patina
on a
couple of finished pieces. Freshly soldered, washed (with ordinary
liquid
dishwashing soap - Sunlight, I think), thoroughly rinsed & dried, and I
was
using a new bottle of patina (only used once before, a couple of weeks
ago,
and worked fine then) and a clean cotton rag... and the result was a
patchy,
scuzzy, skanky, uneven mix of not-too-bright copper and corrosion that
took a
hell of a lot of scrubbing with a toothbrush and then more scrubbing
with a
lot of Kem-O-Pro to get looking even marginal.

Anybody have any idea why it did that? Suggestions on cleaning it up?

I had this problem with solder. I used solder from a reel classed as
lead solder of the right type. The solder was dark grey in color.
Recently I found my local stained glass supply store was in walking
distance of where I work.
When I used their stick solder which was half the price of the other
solder I used it worked perfectly with the same patina.The new solder is
lighter in color. Used the same flux and cleaning techniques.

Brandon S. Jones

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 04:32:42 1998
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From: <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 06:59:38 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Jul23.105938.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Sparks,

It was nice meeting you at Christie's shop the last time I ventured in.  As
far as copper patina goes, we have had this conversation on bungi before,
quite some time ago.  Last time there was really no resolution to the problem
either. It just seems to be one of those things that we cannot be sure of
having control over.  However, IMHO, I say, "SCRUB, SCRUB, SCRUB the @#%* out
of the piece before using copper patina.  When you think it is clean, scrub it
some more and rinse thoroughly using a clean sponge under water, or your hand
to get that soap residue off.  Rub hard to dry, no air drying and apply patina
immediately.  Hope this helps.

Lenore
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 06:13:05 1998
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X-Path: ezl.com!stepsue
From: Sue Prullage <stepsue@ezl.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: re. lampshade problem
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:28:13 -0600
Message-ID: <1998Jul23.12813.0>
Precedence: bulk

Personnally one of the things I love about glass is very seldom is there
a perfect piece.  Although it was not what you planned does it look bad?
Have you gotten an unbiased opinion about the lamp?  You may just be too
hard on yourself because what you planned did not work.  My suggestion
would be use the lamp look at it for awhile and if you really can't
stand it the way it is then change it.  My 2 cents worth.  Sue P
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 07:13:26 1998
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Subject: Re: having a Bad Patina Day
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:34:32 EDT
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Mike says:

> i heard that baby shampoo may work..

I seem to remember Christie using veterinary shampoo for a while; that stuff
was pretty good. Of late she's been using "Wipe Out" emulsifier. That's really
good stuff, but I think she said it's been discontinued.

Dani also suggested horse shampoo. One of our local drug stores carries a few
brands of the stuff (at first I thought it was because we're so close to the
Devon [PA] Horse Show grounds, but they carry it year-round) - will check it
out next time I'm there. I suspect the vet shampoos aren't so full of perfume
and other stuff.

Anyhoo, it's a mystery. Back to steel wool and green scrubbees... and thanks
to everyone for all the helpful hints!


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 07:37:47 1998
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Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 16:38:39 +0800
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Very True, Albert. I have really despaired at times trying to make out what
is on the screen.

Visited the Pat Topp's site. Very impressive, Albert, very impressive.
Thanks a lot.

http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
Shakeel Abedi
104, Jalan Mersing
86000 Kluang
Johor
Malaysia
Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
shakeel@tm.net.my

-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Lewis <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, July 23, 1998 5:00 AM
Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.


>
>> I agree 100%, and I would add that another big no-no is
>>
>> COLORED BACKGROUNDS
>
>Especially if you then use white type so it's readable on-screen,
>then expect them to print out something useful. The white type
>prints, all right, but white on white is hard to read. <s> And the
>background won't print at all, so there you are: white paper.
>
>Albert
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 08:00:05 1998
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Subject: Stop thinking, was Re: Backbone needed
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:34:42 EDT
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Lynn quotes her friend Judy:

> stop thinking & start cutting.

Truer words were never spoken!

I find the same thing is true for me re designing. I can sit and try to "plan"
a project (be it glass, desktop publishing, rearranging a room, or whatever)
and get nowhere, or I can walk away from it and let it percolate in my
subconscious while I do everything else in the world, and finally late some
night when I'm dead-tired, my customary late-evening glass of wine is settling
in real nice, and the left brain doesn't know what the right brain is doing,
the "answer" will pop into my head and I grab my paper and pencils off the
nightstand and sketch it out. (My resident significant other, a composer,
writes most of his music late at night too. We sometimes get a good chuckle
out of realizing that there we are, piled up together like puppies in our
comfy nest, both sketching away...)


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 08:14:50 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Shakeel Abedi <shakeel@tm.net.my>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:55:59 -0400
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Shakeel Abedi wrote:
> 
> Very True, Albert. I have really despaired at times trying to make out what
> is on the screen.
> 
> Visited the Pat Topp's site. Very impressive, Albert, very impressive.
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Atrium/2543/
> Shakeel Abedi
> 104, Jalan Mersing
> 86000 Kluang
> Johor
> Malaysia
> Tel: + 607-7722212 Fax +607-7733313
> shakeel@tm.net.my
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Albert Lewis <alewis@vgernet.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
> Date: Thursday, July 23, 1998 5:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Non Glass: graphics for homepage.
> 
> >
> >> I agree 100%, and I would add that another big no-no is
> >>
> >> COLORED BACKGROUNDS
> >
> >Especially if you then use white type so it's readable on-screen,
> >then expect them to print out something useful. The white type
> >prints, all right, but white on white is hard to read. <s> And the
> >background won't print at all, so there you are: white paper.
> >
> >Albert
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


actually there is a good place for graphics but you need to link back to
her site (the graphics are a little obvious).

moyera's web jewels: http://www.mysticpc.com/jewels/

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
6-16-98 New Pages Added: 44 New Stained Glass Links, 5 New Stained Glass
Tip Pages
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 10:11:12 1998
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: lampshade problem
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 12:31:50 -0400
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Message text written by INTERNET:HILLEKER@Citadel.edu
>My question, is there any way to salvage this shade without
taking it apart and redoing all the background?  I thought I =

might try painting the backs of the blue pieces so that
they would all have about the same transmittance.  Any other
ideas?<

How about finding a glass for plating (2 layers of glass soldered
atop one another), which will make one color equal to the other?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 13:41:56 1998
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Subject: Re: Backbone needed
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 16:19:43 EDT
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In a message dated 98-07-22 11:02:00 EDT, you write:

> Can you think of anything I've missed?
>  Tia
Ut uh Tia, you want us to come up with more reasons for you NOT to start your
project.  Take a DEEP breath, decide which part of this will be FUN to start,
maybe the Koi, save the baroque if it scares you, till you get the feel of the
panel and remember this is for a Loved one and I'm sure he will be thrilled to
come watch every so often to see how its going.
deb
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 20:29:14 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Grozing
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 14:37:33 -0700 (PDT)
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Grozing saves fingers!
Burrs of thin glass on the edge that find their way to your already sore
fingers!!!
Also lets say cutting a curve or circle and there's little gaps from  start
to finish from the other start to finish...also saves time on the grinder
and saves you from surprize "ouchies".

Elizabeth from the UK teaches great lessons on it!...smiles.

Smiles, Cindy

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 20:49:55 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
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Subject: Flash Venting
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 14:27:42 -0700 (PDT)
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>Hi Joan,

Does flash venting temper glass?
Interesting.... as I have always thought it was the annealling process that
tempers glass.
Joan, I do flash vent always!
Have not drilled my pieces, but I can cut easy and grind easy.
Flashing vent... is to remore the heating process.
Hence slowing the melt.
Bob D. from Mountain Meadow is a smart man...who should answer this!!
Except for his wet rag stuff...chuckle again, Bob!
Smiles, Cindy

>
>Through posts on this newsgroup I have learned that by flash venting the
>kiln I am, in effect, also tempering the glass.  This makes it difficult
>to cut up fused sections or drill into it, so I am no longer flash
>venting.  My question:
>
>In the final firing, is there an advantage to flash venting, and
>tempering, the glass.  Does it make the finished piece stronger or less
>fragile? BTW, I am fusing small pieces in a Quik-Fire kiln to be used as
>components in jewelry.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Joan
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 20:58:52 1998
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From: "Doug Parrott" <bird_cage@email.msn.com>
To: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
Subject: Re: help with trying to scan patterns for e-mail
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:22:16 -0700
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Albert and all,

Thank you for the help with my scanner problem.  I contacted HP customer
service and they walked  me through the installation of the software.  It
appears my husband hadn't downloaded the Paperport Software when he
installed the program.  Yes, it wasn't me!!

However, part of the problem came how I was saving the file. Alls fine now.
Thanks for all your help.




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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 22:04:52 1998
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From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, cpesonen@bcinternet.net
Subject: Flash Venting
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 00:46:22, -0500
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>>Does flash venting temper glass?
Interesting.... as I have always thought it was the annealling 
process that
tempers glass.
Joan, I do flash vent always!<<

My take on this is as follows:

1. Flash venting is a term normally used to refer to opening the lid 
of the kiln to quickly reduce the heat and stop the project from 
being over worked in a normal cool down. Normally the kiln lid is 
closed at about 1000'F so the kiln can go through the anneal area 
(often about 950'F) in the normal fashion. Once firing formulas are 
worked out for repative projects they normally do not include flash 
venting.

2. Glass that has been properly annealed for its type and thickness 
will be easier to cut than glass that has been hurried through the 
anneal zone. By properly annealed I mean that the stress associated 
with fast cooling is avoided by slow cooling. Glass above about 
1000'F can have no stress as it is plastic.

3. Many glasses can build up a certain amount of strain if hurried 
through the range from anneal temperature to about 700'F. They will 
be somewhat tempered and hard to cut.

4. Tempered glass, the stuff that shatteres into a million pieces, is 
a product of a RAPID cooling process that is not normally considered 
to be within the capability of a stained glass studio. It is best 
ordered from a tempering facility in the CORRECT size for it can not 
be resized due to the energy locked within the outer skin of the 
glass by the rapid cooling process. This glass is about five times as 
strong as the same glass untempered and much less dangerous should a 
person be thrown through it. It has surprising characteristics and 
the same piece of glass may stand up to hammer blows and then be 
shattered by a BB gun.

>>Bob D. from Mountain Meadow is a smart man.<< And I might add very 
hansom too. Bob


____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*US Navy retired, please pay your taxes promptly.*
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 23 22:33:25 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Flash Venting
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 21:14:17 -0700 (PDT)
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>>
>>>Hi Joan,
>>
>>Does flash venting temper glass?
>>Interesting.... as I have always thought it was the annealling process that
>>tempers glass.
>>Joan, I do flash vent always!
>>Have not drilled my pieces, but I can cut easy and grind easy.
>>Flashing vent... is to remore the heating process.
>>Hence slowing the melt.
>>Bob D. from Mountain Meadow is a smart man...who should answer this!!
>>Except for his wet rag stuff...chuckle again, Bob!
>>Smiles, Cindy
>>
>>>
>>>Through posts on this newsgroup I have learned that by flash venting the
>>>kiln I am, in effect, also tempering the glass.  This makes it difficult
>>>to cut up fused sections or drill into it, so I am no longer flash
>>>venting.  My question:
>>>
>>>In the final firing, is there an advantage to flash venting, and
>>>tempering, the glass.  Does it make the finished piece stronger or less
>>>fragile? BTW, I am fusing small pieces in a Quik-Fire kiln to be used as
>>>components in jewelry.
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Joan
>>>
>>>----
>>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>>
>

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