From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 07:39:34 2000
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From: bj75@webtv.net (Bill Kirkwood)
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Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 10:16:20 -0500 (EST)
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Please send any new things and some ideas you have for patterns on
stepping stones. Thank you.
Jean Kirkwood

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 09:39:47 2000
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Subject: -60 degrees F.
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 12:12:20 -0500
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I understand that the person who mentioned  it was -60 degrees lives in
Alaska--I had to look it up for myself--it's true!--so if some
Southerners on list have never experienced the other side of the coin,
look here:

http://www.travelalaska.com/homepage.html

best wishes,
joseph

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 12:33:28 2000
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Please remove my name from your list.

Thank you.

elmel1@home.com
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From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 20:33:18 2000
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I would appreciate your adding me to your list.  I learned about you =
from Skip Hodge at Southern Exposure Glass in Winter Garden, FL.
Thanks.

Richard DeLancey

wizard1@magicnet.net

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I would appreciate your adding me to =
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 14:35:43 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
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Subject: re,re uk artists
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 22:10:58 -0000
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thanks for your reply Toby. a little background then. i've been involved in
stained glass for 8 years, mostly as a hobby, but now feel its time to try
and make it pay. so this year its find a studio and more outlets for my
work. i tend to like mythical subjects, country scenes, kalidascopes and
celtic patterns. also i enjoy leadwork and traditional styles. i teach (only
as a stand in tutor) stained glass at a community workshop in Norwich.
all the best charlie


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 14:57:30 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
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Subject: more help please.
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 21:46:23 -0000
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thanks for your help, now the next one. 63/37 solder for decorative work .
anyone know of a uk supplier other than tempsford.
cheers charlie.


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 16:39:43 2000
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From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
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Subject: Making large suncatcher with assorted scraps
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 19:02:26 -0500 (EST)
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My sister ordered this last night? She wants some sort of design in the
middle & then assorted scraps filling a frame somewhere around 1' x1' or
larger.

Has anyone made one of these & is there a name for it? How much would
you charge? 
It sounds like more work than a pattern to me? What do you think? 

Thanks in advance,

Ali

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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 17:02:17 2000
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From: "Catherine Williams" <topcat@magicnet.net>
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:54:02 -0500
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Hi!
Another stained glass enthusiast referred me to you for stained glass info.
Is this a newsletter? What info is available?
Thanks,
GlassCat


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 17:11:00 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: more help please.
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 00:17:38 +0000
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At 21:46 02/01/00 -0000, you wrote:
>thanks for your help, now the next one. 63/37 solder for decorative work .
>anyone know of a uk supplier other than tempsford.
>cheers charlie.
>
How much are you looking for?
I think we have 5 kilos or so in stock but I am typing from home and we
wont be open till Tuesday.
Give me a call after 10 am  Tues onwards and I can give you a price if you
are interested - but postage will bump the price up considerably.
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
01202 514734
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 22:20:55 2000
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Subject: Re: glass creations
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 00:28:16 EST
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Hello, and Welcome,

Bungi is a newsgroup (and much more), on which those interested in the glass 
arts share skills, information, resources, hopes, fears, triumphs, and 
sometimes frustrations, in pursuit of the art or craft (or both).

I personally have benefited from it exponentially. One can participate in the 
various threads, or not, as you choose, but rarely, will you come away from 
reading group discussion, without learning something. Although I've yet to 
find the time to do so, you can also access a wealth of archival information.

Like any group of individuals, we have those who are in need of a more 
positive attitude, but generally, all are well meaning.

Richard
Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 11:20:04 2000
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From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com.>
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Subject: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 15:07:01 -0400
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I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!

Gail in Nova Scotia

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 12:36:28 2000
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From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com.>
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Subject: Frame Suggestions needed
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 15:12:36 -0400
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What do you suggest for framing a copper foil panel approximately 2' by
3' that will be going in front of an existing window in a bathroom? What
is the best way to deal with the condensation problem that will
inevitably show up between the two windows?   Thanks again!

Gail in Nova Scotia

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 12:50:23 2000
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From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 12:20:53 -0800
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The classic method of temporally holding glass on an easel is to use
beeswax. Make 1/4" balls, warm a bit and use two or three compressed between
the two pieces of glass.

Bob in 92026

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 13:51:06 2000
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From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline),
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 16:33:20 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Gail, I'm not sure what it's called in Canada, but in the UK there's a
substance called Blue-tac that ought to work.  In the US it's called
Glue-Tac.  You should be able to find it in any store that carries office
supplies -- it's made for sticking posters, etc. to the wall without messing
up the wall.

Brad


------Original Message------
From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: January 3, 2000 7:07:01 PM GMT
Subject: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work


I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!

Gail in Nova Scotia

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 14:34:22 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Gail HeinzeMiline <heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:25:52 -0500
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Message text written by Gail  HeinzeMiline
>I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!
<

Building the panel??? You mean painting or checking
color... a temporary situation.... right?  In that situation
we use a combination of rosin and beeswax.  We also
use a North-facing window so have little trouble with
the sun melting the wax and the glass dropping off.
After cutting all the glass, painting/checking on the light
easel, all the pieces of glass are tapped off and then
built on the pattern as per usual.

Best regards in the new year!

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 15:04:28 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: US Source of tallow - flux for lead came work
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 22:43:04 +0000
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20000103224304.007abbd0@mailhost.stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all - I am forwarding this info from a non-bunginian who asked me to
pass it on to anyone looking to get hold of tallow sticks for lead work.
We use nothing else on our lead windows!
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth (the other UK one!)
===================================
From: "Victor Rothman" <vrothman@onlineacc.net>
To: <shop@stainedglass.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:26:46 -0500

Hi Elizabeth,
I see you are on the Bungi line. There was a lot of interest in Talo flux.
I have been using it for over 15 years. It can be purchased at L.B. Allen
Corp., 725 North Central Ave., Wood Dale Il. 60191, USA. Phone
708-595-6646.  They call it "soldering stick" item # B-601. It cost about
$1.75 USD.  Since I do not belong to Bungi, I can not post this info
myself, so I thought that you might what to.
Vic Rothman
==========

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 16:09:27 2000
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X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Undersea colors needed--
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 18:19:27 -0500
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Anyone have a suggestion on what type/color glass to use on this
project?  Three colors will do for a start-- on an underwater scene of
sand, sea, and a roving red lobster.  I know that lobsters don't turn
red until they're cooked--but no one wants a black, green, blue or
yellow lobster---I know, I've made plenty of neon lobsters in these
colors---and the folks just don't like 'em!

Best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 16:36:43 2000
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X-Path: clientes.euskaltel.es!elere
From: "Elena Rodríguez" <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
To: Gail HeinzeMiline <heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 01:25:43 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Hi Gail
I have sometimes used plasticine, kid's modeling clay, to hold glass
pieces on to mold.
Elena in Spain

Gail HeinzeMiline escribió:

> I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
> panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
> tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 19:37:51 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cutting larger HF (flat) lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:16:26 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead without 
mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a 
weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my channel 
still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 20:39:02 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cutting lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 23:27:39 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
without 
mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a

weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
channel 
still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
<

Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
would a picture be worth a thousand words!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I think), 
but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to be 
an easier way!  

Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 20:42:47 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:Kauriee@aol.com" <Kauriee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: cutting larger HF (flat) lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 23:18:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:Kauriee@aol.com
>Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
without =

mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using=
 a

weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
channel =

still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that=
 =

don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
<

Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
would a picture be worth a thousand words!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 23:11:14 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: <Kauriee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: cutting lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:41:11 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Also remember that you can ease the leaves apart with a fid if you need to.


Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 8:27 PM
Subject: cutting lead


> Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
> without
> mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using
a
>
> weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
> channel
> still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that
> don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
> <
>
> Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
> Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
> positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
> up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
> each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
> both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
> would a picture be worth a thousand words!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
>
> Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I
think),
> but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to
be
> an easier way!
>
> Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?
>
> Kauriee
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 05:41:42 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cutting lead
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:22:28 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 1/3/00 11:40:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kauriee@aol.com 
writes:

> Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
>  without 
>  mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a
>  
>  weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
>  channel 
>  still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
>  don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
>  <
>  
>  Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
>  Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
>  positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
>  up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
>  each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
>  both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
>  would a picture be worth a thousand words!
>  
>  Best regards,
>  
>  Dani Greer
>  Greer Gallery & Studios
>  
>  Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I 
think),
>  
>  but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to 
be 
> 
>  an easier way!  
>  
>  Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?
>  
YOu know, I've recently been cutting wide lead, which is rather thin flanged. 
 I've had the best luck with cutting it with the knippers across the face of 
the flange, ( inother words mashing it down on purpose,) and then opening it 
with my lead knife, which I use after almost every cut anyway.  this works 
pretty well, unless your flange is heavy, then if that's the case use your 
knife, and be careful to put the cutting strength into the heart only.  The 
sharper your knife, the better this works, and do not assume that just 
because your knife is new it is sharp  Some are not.
Anne
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 06:13:28 2000
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X-Path: mail.com!mbwalker
From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Warm glass web site
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:44:21 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

For anyone who's interested, I've put together a web site devoted to warm
glass techniques like glass fusing and slumping.  The site has a lengthy
tutorial on basic processes and techniques, as well as information on lots
of topics such as materials, health & safety, and troubleshooting.  I'd be
very much interested in hearing comments from anyone who visits the site.

I'm also looking for a web host to host the site.  All I need are a decent
amount of storage space (not much graphics at present due to space
limitations), a low price (free's nice, but don't want to have to have ads),
and the ability to use a domain url.  Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.

Please send comments to me by clicking on the comment portion of the site or
by e-mailing to mbwalker@mail.com

The url for the site is: http://pweb.netcom.com/~mbwalker/

Thanks in advance.

Brad Walker

______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 07:27:44 2000
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From: Tenlee Tarrier <ttarrier@corecomm.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:47:59 -0500
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Please remove me from your list.
Thank you. 
Tenlee Tarrier
ttarrier@corecomm.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 08:13:57 2000
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warm glass web site
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:38:11 +0000
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> The url for the site is: http://pweb.netcom.com/~mbwalker/

Very nice. The only thing I'd suggest is to make the buttons on the 
left smaller and arrange it so they could be seen all the time, 
rather than have them disappear off the top as you scroll down.
Other than that, 

  the title of the page I looked at is 3 characters longer than 
  search engine robots prefer ... at the moment, the page I looked at 
  would be listed in a search engine as "Warm Glass: Fusing, 
  Slumping,  and Other Kiln Forming Techniq" ... see? the whole 
  title's not there

  you're not taking advantage of META descriptions and keywords, 
  which would make your site more visible to search engines (and more 
  highly visited as a result) ... what this means is that the page 
  that I looked at (for instance) would have a description consisting 
  of the words it finds on the page:

     Warm Glass Fusing, Slumping, and Other Kiln Forming Techniques Click
     here to return to home page. Click here to e-mail your comments. 
     &nbsp;&nbsp;&nb 

  If you add META description and keywords, you'll be much better 
off because you could control exactly what's said below the page's 
title as it appears in search engines.
  
As for host space, I do that .. although I'm expensive, since all 
domains under my jurisdiction are put up on *five servers - New York, 
Virginia, California, Toronto (Canada), and Amsterdam (The 
Netherlands). If you're interested, see http://alldesigncom.com 

Nearly free ($2 month) hosting space is available from, among others, 
http://faq.web2010.com/index.shtml ... you have to handle all of the 
details yourself, though, including FTP and all that.

Good luck with your site! I think it's a great start!

Albert, former Exec. Dir., International Guild of Glass Artists

Albert Lewis
AllDesignCom.com | Design & Communications
__________________________________________
54 Cherry Street      North Adams MA 01247
413 663-7946             Fax: 413 663-7167
      http://www.alldesigncom.com/

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 09:04:57 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:29:49 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads. 
 This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it 
into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your 
prayers!  

Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of 
new to this whole process so be patient with me!

Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the 
came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 10:04:32 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: <Kauriee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:35:41 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kauree

Yep, I've experienced that same magic myself...sharing problems at whatever
level usually produces a variety of answers and quickly too.

I don't have a came saw and haven't bought one for the following reasons:
lead came is easy enough to cut with nippers that a saw isn't required.  For
brass and zinc came I use a dremel tool with cut off wheel, which iis less
expensive and has way more uses than a came saw.  I currently get only 2-3
commissions a year for brass came, so it's not cost effective.  If I lived
in an area where brass is more popular I would probably purchase one. So the
answer to your question to buy or not buy a came saw is...it depends!

And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter saw
be made into a came saw for brasss by using an abrasive blade similar to the
Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:29 AM
Subject: Came cutting


> Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger
leads.
>  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to
your
> prayers!
>
> Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort
of
> new to this whole process so be patient with me!
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
>
> Kauriee
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 12:10:15 2000
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X-Path: MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US!KitW
From: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Protection during glass grinding
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 13:51:14 -0500 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I use a paper grocery bag.  I cut half of the front out and sit the grinder
inside the bag and I cut a small hole in the back for the cord.  This allows
any pieces which fling off to stay inside the bag, it protects the walls and
me and it couldn't be any cheaper to use and replace.  I also have the
plastic face shield and I wear goggles, a respirator and I bought a long
coat from a hair salon supply company to protect my clothes.  I look like a
mad scientist and love to see peoples' reactions when I answer the door in
this getup.

Happy New Year!

p.s. tip to save fingers and hands while grinding--I use the
accounting/filing tips for fingers and they work GREAT!  I bought them at an
office supply store and they have little nubs on them which keep the glass
from slipping  They have paid for themselves in not having to buy bandages
and bandaids.


Kit Walden
Tuilelaith's Stained Glass


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Witchdoc3@aol.com [SMTP:Witchdoc3@aol.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 29, 1999 3:58 PM
> To:	glass@bungi.com
> Subject:	Re: Protection during glass grinding
> 
> 
> In a message dated 12/28/99 3:14:51 PM, bobdu@prodigy.net writes:
> 
> >I have a three sided splash shield that goes around the sides and back
> >of my grinder. In top of this is a piece of 1/4" plate glass that is 1 X
> 2'.
> 
> At home I set up my grinder inside an old aquarium that's been turned on
> its 
> side. At the shop we usually just wear goggles. (As soon as I can afford
> it, 
> I'm going to invest in a pair of proper industrial safety glasses......
> I'm 
> in need of a new glasses prescription anyway.)
> 
> >Ps: If I wanted to wear a gas mask I would have joined the Army.
> 
> I hate the things too, but after my doctor nearly had a heart attack over
> my 
> slightly elevated blood lead level a couple of months ago, I figure it's 
> worth it. And I absolutely swear by the face mask for puttying, because
> the 
> turp and linseed fumes give me a headache (and I don't need to be
> breathing 
> whiting dust anyway).
> 
> 
> Sparks
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 12:28:42 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: cutting larger HF (flat) lead
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:00:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I'd say less pressure on, and more wiggling of, the knife.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead without 
>mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a 
>weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my channel 
>still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
>don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
>
>Kauriee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 12:36:36 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:08:31 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Kauriee,
Unless you are using brass or zinc, I don't see the point.  Lead knives
or dykes cut much more quickly and just as accurately (with practice).
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads. 
> This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it 
>into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your 
>prayers!  
>
>Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of 
>new to this whole process so be patient with me!
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the 
>came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
>
>Kauriee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 13:32:45 2000
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X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Lead-free solder--
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 16:00:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I was up at Home Depot and picked up some lead-free solder made by Alpha
Metals--no info. on the label other than *Silver bearing solder*. Anyone
use this stuff? It's costly--almost $5 for 1/2 pound.

Best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 14:31:48 2000
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X-Path: mail.com!mbwalker
From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>, glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Lead-free solder--
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:11:39 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Most of Alpha's solder is for industrial applications, rather than for
stained glass work.  I've never used it, but they do have a web site
(complete with on-line catalog) at: http://www.alphametals.com/

Cole Sonafrank, who uses lead free solder exclusively, does have a web page
that discusses lead free soldering:
http://kokomo.gi.alaska.edu/leadfree.html  Sonafrank says that he uses an
industrial solder by a company called Johnson Manufacturing, so maybe the
Alpha solder will work, too.

Hope this helps.

Brad Walker

------Original Message------
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: January 4, 2000 9:00:27 PM GMT
Subject: Lead-free solder--


I was up at Home Depot and picked up some lead-free solder made by Alpha
Metals--no info. on the label other than *Silver bearing solder*. Anyone
use this stuff? It's costly--almost $5 for 1/2 pound.

Best wishes,
Joseph

----
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______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 18:17:11 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Warm glass web site
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:04:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Brad Walker
>For anyone who's interested, I've put together a web site devoted to war=
m
glass techniques like glass fusing and slumping.  The site has a lengthy
tutorial on basic processes and techniques, as well as information on lot=
s
of topics such as materials, health & safety, and troubleshooting.  I'd b=
e
very much interested in hearing comments from anyone who visits the site.=

<
And, it's marvelous!  All I can say is write that =

book fast, Brad!!  As far as hosting the website,
maybe some glass organization like AGSA or
IGGA will get smart and offer you some space...
it's clearly educational.

Speaking of warm glass, next issue of Common
Ground:Glass will focus on the subject and Brad
is our featured writer.  Stay tuned!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 20:19:43 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cutting lead
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:07:07 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Kauriee,
I have used a came saw to cut small 1/4" H came that crushes under the 
pressure of the knife and find that it is much easier than using lead dykes 
that waste so much lead because of the odd cut that you end up with . Never 
have liked lead dykes but,as for came saws they are very handy for many 
things around the shop.I even use mine to cut wood for frames that I make.I 
use a Jarmac but I'm sure that there are some other good ones out there. I'm 
sure that using a came saw on the larger came would work well in your case. I 
prefer the metal blade verses the fiber blades but that is just my personal 
preference,and since I do a lot of beveled windows I use it to cut a lot of 
zinc and it does this well.When cutting came with a saw I first mark the cut 
with my knife then just take it to the saw and preform the cut,and it is then 
cut to the right size just as if you had used the knife.
Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 22:16:44 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:49:16 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>>And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter
saw
>>be made into a came saw for brass by using an abrasive blade similar to
the
>>Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?

Maybe yes and maybe no. I have a Glastar chop saw that takes four inch
diameter metal and abrasive blades. The metal blade does a good job on lead,
reinforced lead and zinc. It quickly wears out on brass. Cutting steel rebar
is out of the question for the metal blade.

The abrasive blade is excellent for zinc, brass and steel rebar. It quickly
clogs up when used with lead. One of the reasons it is good for these metals
is the fact that it is only .035 inch in thickness. A thicker blade would
generate more heat, require more power and tend to chew up the thin brass
and zinc as most of these cames are made from formed up thin sheet stock.
Even with this blade the cuts require a small amount of dressing to clean up
burrs.

I do not know of .035 inch thick blades in larger diameters. I doubt they
would be safe in general use.

Bob in 92026


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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 07:41:35 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!leetollett
From: lee tollett <leetollett@worldnet.att.net>
To: synergyglass <seaspray@island.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 06:14:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone

    Yes you can use a common wood miter saw to cut came. I also work with wood
allot, so I had an extra saw not being used at the time, and set it up for
came.  I use a 10" X 1/8" metal cutting fiber blade.  You have to make a jig
using two peace's of wood as a backing to support the came.  Sense the blade is
wide, it does require some clean up of burrs.  But for me having perfect angle
cuts is worth the time.  Works great for me!!

Lee Tollett

synergyglass wrote:

> Hi Kauree
>
> Yep, I've experienced that same magic myself...sharing problems at whatever
> level usually produces a variety of answers and quickly too.
>
> I don't have a came saw and haven't bought one for the following reasons:
> lead came is easy enough to cut with nippers that a saw isn't required.  For
> brass and zinc came I use a dremel tool with cut off wheel, which iis less
> expensive and has way more uses than a came saw.  I currently get only 2-3
> commissions a year for brass came, so it's not cost effective.  If I lived
> in an area where brass is more popular I would probably purchase one. So the
> answer to your question to buy or not buy a came saw is...it depends!
>
> And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter saw
> be made into a came saw for brasss by using an abrasive blade similar to the
> Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?
>
> Carol Swann
> Synergy Glass & Creative
> www.igga.org/synergy
> seaspray@island.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:29 AM
> Subject: Came cutting
>
> > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger
> leads.
> >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to
> your
> > prayers!
> >
> > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort
> of
> > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> >
> > Kauriee
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 14:36:44 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:28:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

First of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no idea
why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> I have used two came saws (chop saws or miter saws).  One is that cute new red
> Diamond Tech, and the other is Gryphon.  I'd recommend the Gryphon one because
> you have a large screw with which you fasten the length of wood, came, etc. to
> the guide, making certain the material doesn't shift from the pressure or
> movement of the blade.  This allows you to push the head down (which activates
> the saw) with one hand, and hold the other end of the came, wood, etc. in the
> other hand.  With the Diamond Tech, you need three hands - one to hold each end
> of the came, wood, etc. and one to push.  Most people aren't built that way.
> With the Diamond Tech, therefore you have one end of the came unsupported which
> means you must hold much closer to the blade (not recommended) for stability and
> the other end whips off uncontrolled.  Doesn't seem all that safe.  It's a joy
> to cut with either of these saws, though, if you've been cutting zinc or brass
> by hand.  Zip and it's done.
>
> Understand, with these saws, you are meant to cut only narrow pieces of
> material.  Look at the blade when pushed to it's lowest level.  It can cut no
> wider than that, so it is not like a table saw where you push your material
> continuously from the front.  Neither of these are multiangle saws, either,
> where the material can be angled and the head also angled.  These saws will only
> make a vertical cut.
>
> I've also seen the Inland one.  It looks like a circular table saw in miniature,
> with the flat surface and part of the blade rising thru a crack and visible
> above the table surface.  According to those who used it, it is practically
> worthless for cutting the long thin strips of whatever, since they can't be
> supported well and you have to get your hands much too close to the blade
> (should be using a pusher, but no way to do that when supporting the material).
> At least the one I saw didn't give you any way of controlling your angle for
> mitered cuts.  Maybe the newer ones do.
>
> Caveat:  Do NOT use lead in these saws!!!  Lead gums up the blade to the point
> it is worthless for cutting anything else.  And DO wear eye protection.  -  Cec
>
> Kauriee@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads.
> >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your
> > prayers!
> >
> > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of
> > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> >
> > Kauriee
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 14:36:47 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:28:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Secondof three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no idea
why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> I have used two came saws (chop saws or miter saws).  One is that cute new red
> Diamond Tech, and the other is Gryphon.  I'd recommend the Gryphon one because
> you have a large screw with which you fasten the length of wood, came, etc. to
> the guide, making certain the material doesn't shift from the pressure or
> movement of the blade.  This allows you to push the head down (which activates
> the saw) with one hand, and hold the other end of the came, wood, etc. in the
> other hand.  With the Diamond Tech, you need three hands - one to hold each end
> of the came, wood, etc. and one to push.  Most people aren't built that way.
> With the Diamond Tech, therefore you have one end of the came unsupported which
> means you must hold much closer to the blade (not recommended) for stability and
> the other end whips off uncontrolled.  Doesn't seem all that safe.  It's a joy
> to cut with either of these saws, though, if you've been cutting zinc or brass
> by hand.  Zip and it's done.
>
> Understand, with these saws, you are meant to cut only narrow pieces of
> material.  Look at the blade when pushed to it's lowest level.  It can cut no
> wider than that, so it is not like a table saw where you push your material
> continuously from the front.  Neither of these are multiangle saws, either,
> where the material can be angled and the head also angled.  These saws will only
> make a vertical cut.
>
> I've also seen the Inland one.  It looks like a circular table saw in miniature,
> with the flat surface and part of the blade rising thru a crack and visible
> above the table surface.  According to those who used it, it is practically
> worthless for cutting the long thin strips of whatever, since they can't be
> supported well and you have to get your hands much too close to the blade
> (should be using a pusher, but no way to do that when supporting the material).
> At least the one I saw didn't give you any way of controlling your angle for
> mitered cuts.  Maybe the newer ones do.
>
> Caveat:  Do NOT use lead in these saws!!!  Lead gums up the blade to the point
> it is worthless for cutting anything else.  And DO wear eye protection.  -  Cec
>
> Kauriee@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads.
> >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your
> > prayers!
> >
> > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of
> > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> >
> > Kauriee
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 15:05:52 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: cutting lead + Re: tips]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:27:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

First of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no idea
why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> I have a pair of bent needle nose pliers (jewelry type) that  are the handiest
> things.  One of the uses is for straightening the flanges on came, whether
> hobby, or regular copper/brass/zinc/lead. Another use is for peeling old
> solder/foil from projects I'm repairing.  I also use them to hold blobs that
> have been foiled or for decorative metal stampings while tinning.  And that's
> just the beginning.  Other than the soldering iron or glass cutters, they are
> probably the most used tool I have.
>
> The chief advantage is holding things at the bend.  Imagine bending your fingers
> and then holding something between two of your fingers.  And with unfoiling, I
> use the bend to scrape (and hopefully grab).
>
> You can probably purchase them at a hobby store that carries jewelry supplies
> (beeds, etc) or metal modal car kits, or the wood for making miniature airplanes
> etc.  Best $10 you can spend.  Don't get anything big - they should be quite
> small.
>
> There is another kind of jewelry plier which I have.  It is a more specialized
> tool, not used a lot, but when needed, it is just the thing.  These are a type
> of needle nose, except that each needle (each nose?) is conical.  They are great
> for bending wire.
>
> Kauriee@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
> > without
> > mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a
> >
> > weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
> > channel
> > still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that
> > don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
> > <
> >
> > Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
> > Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
> > positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
> > up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
> > each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
> > both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
> > would a picture be worth a thousand words!
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Dani Greer
> > Greer Gallery & Studios
> >
> > Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I think),
> > but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to be
> > an easier way!
> >
> > Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?
> >
> > Kauriee
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 15:11:59 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:29:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Third of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no
idea why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> This is only a guess but I'd say you could get a diamond blade for them.  If
> so, yes they certainly could be used.
>
> My principal use of the little chop saw is for making frames.  Frames are by
> far the most expensive part of almost any displayed item.  I have a lot of
> posters and prints, and there is no way I can afford to get them framed
> commercially, or even at the do-it-yourself framing places, or with prefab
> frames.  Obviously, if you want wood frames for glass panels, it too is
> cheaper.  Of course that won't help with circular or oval panels, but most of
> us probably don't do a lot of those. - Cec
>
> synergyglass wrote:
>
> > Hi Kauree
> >
> > Yep, I've experienced that same magic myself...sharing problems at whatever
> > level usually produces a variety of answers and quickly too.
> >
> > I don't have a came saw and haven't bought one for the following reasons:
> > lead came is easy enough to cut with nippers that a saw isn't required.  For
> > brass and zinc came I use a dremel tool with cut off wheel, which iis less
> > expensive and has way more uses than a came saw.  I currently get only 2-3
> > commissions a year for brass came, so it's not cost effective.  If I lived
> > in an area where brass is more popular I would probably purchase one. So the
> > answer to your question to buy or not buy a came saw is...it depends!
> >
> > And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter saw
> > be made into a came saw for brasss by using an abrasive blade similar to the
> > Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?
> >
> > Carol Swann
> > Synergy Glass & Creative
> > www.igga.org/synergy
> > seaspray@island.net
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:29 AM
> > Subject: Came cutting
> >
> > > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger
> > leads.
> > >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to
> > your
> > > prayers!
> > >
> > > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort
> > of
> > > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> > >
> > > Kauriee
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 16:40:05 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: kit walden
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 21:10:13 -0000
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dear kit,
I don't feel I can be much help on this. I have only really dealt with small
local firms in my area. this area is extremely bad in providing jobs in this
field, only paying minimum wage and expecting good design skills as well.
my only suggestion is try the major companies in the UK, such as James
Hetley(London). an appeal on bungi will bring you other companies that I'm
not aware of no doubt. Other than that the craft fair circuit could be an
option but stall prices could be frightening again some shops will take work
but watch the mark up they want, they end up earning more than you.

all the best in your search
Charlie


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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 17:11:45 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
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Subject: New thread---grinder head mystery
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 00 17:41:11 
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Hi everyone,

When I bought a old guy's home studio out, one of the things that turned up was a brand 
new in the wrapper Inland grinder head.. no markings on the card...

It's 1 5/8" long (not counting the brass barrel attachment) and is 1 1/2" in dia. It's white. I 
haven't taken it out of the wrapper, so it could be packed felt, but it's not very flexible, 
dry as it is..

Any clues out there?

Candy

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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 18:11:37 2000
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From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: New thread---grinder head mystery
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 20:41:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001060041.RAA08687@mantis.privatei.com>>
Organization: Mike's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Candy wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> When I bought a old guy's home studio out, one of the things that turned up was a brand
> new in the wrapper Inland grinder head.. no markings on the card...
> 
> It's 1 5/8" long (not counting the brass barrel attachment) and is 1 1/2" in dia. It's white. I
> haven't taken it out of the wrapper, so it could be packed felt, but it's not very flexible,
> dry as it is..
> 
> Any clues out there?
> 
> Candy
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it sounds like a hole cutter. inland does make those. the largest head
they make for grinders is 1".


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 20:49:19 2000
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Subject: Posted this on Jan 1?
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 23:11:16 -0500 (EST)
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I only got 1 response?

My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1
x 1 ft or larger.  A design in center wit scraps surrounding it,
Doesn't this sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is
it worth it?

Ali

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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 21:25:26 2000
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Skip,

Maybe Harbor Freight?

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 04:00:08 2000
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Subject: Re: Posted this on Jan 1?
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:21:41 +0000
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At 23:11 05/01/00 -0500, Ali wrote:
>I only got 1 response?
>
>My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1
>x 1 ft or larger.  A design in center wit scraps surrounding it,
>Doesn't this sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is
>it worth it?
>
Sorry you feel neglected!  Maybe people were too caught up in the time of
the year celebrations.
Probably like me they were not quite sure what you wanted advice on.  Has
your sister ordered it from you - so you want advice on how much to charge
her - or from someone else - and you want to make sure she is not being
overcharged?
If the former then it is really a question of
a) Do you want to make it? - if not suggest another pattern you would like
to do.
Stained glass as a hobby ought to be enjoyable!!  Nothing is more depressing
than having to do a piece you dont like just because you have been asked to
do it.  You often dont make such a good job of those kinds of projects as
your heart is not in it.  Those of us who make a living from the craft have
to steel ourselves to putting our best efforts into work we are not that
enthusiastic about if we have bills to pay, but those lucky people with a
day job can pick and choose what they make.
b) "Too much work" depends on how you personally like to work on projects.  
Some of our students amaze me by being happy fiddling with really tiny
scraps of glass  because they like to use up all those odd pieces, while
others throw pieces into the scrap box that are 6 inches or so square
because they cant be bothered messing about with small pieces!! (the rest of
the students then fight over who gets to pick those pieces out and use them!!)
Also some people are happier working strictly to pattern, so prefer a
"proper design" while others like the feel of spontanaeity (sp?) you get
when just putting pieces in where they fit, and often get just as effective
a random pattern.
c)How much is your time worth to you?  We always suggest that you should get
as much as you feel your work is worth - and that varies immensely from one
crafter to another.  Often people spend many hours slaving over a piece of
work for family members and dont even charge them the materials cost!  We
usually suggest that you work out what it will cost in materials, add a bit
for use of the tools/equipment - if lots of grinding is involved then charge
a bit extra to allow for wear and tear - than add to this whatever you want
to be paid for your time.  If the total amounts to more than the potential
"customer" thinks it is "worth" to them then dont make it - and spend your
time doing something for yourself!

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 04:04:31 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 09:20:21 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Cecily and Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@home.com> writes
>First of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no 
>idea
>why they didn't make it to bungi.
>
>Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:
...cut.....
>> I've also seen the Inland one.  It looks like a circular table saw in 
>miniature,
>> with the flat surface and part of the blade rising thru a crack and visible
>> above the table surface.  According to those who used it, it is practically
>> worthless for cutting the long thin strips of whatever, since they can't be
>> supported well and you have to get your hands much too close to the blade
>> (should be using a pusher, but no way to do that when supporting the 
>material).
>> At least the one I saw didn't give you any way of controlling your angle for
>> mitered cuts.  Maybe the newer ones do.
>>
>> Caveat:  Do NOT use lead in these saws!!!  Lead gums up the blade to the point
>> it is worthless for cutting anything else.  

I disagree on the use of the Inland for lead.  It works really well on
lead calme.  The blade that comes with it cleans itself of lead very
well.  The guide does have provision for any angle by means of a pivot
and locking thumb screw.  It is not very substantial, but works for non-
production work.  For production work, I devised my own guides at the
angles I needed.  

The major problem is assembly of the product.  The problem after that is
the poor quality motor.  So don't expect a long life in production work.
For other work it will be fine.

I set mine up so that its work surface was at the same height as the
neighbouring work bench.  This supports the uncut parts of the calme.
You could arrange things so the grinder and the saw table were
interchangeable next to your work bench.

I still don't see why you would want to do all the work of marking the
angle on the calme, taking the calme to the saw, adjusting the guide to
the appropriate angle, put on the goggles, turn on the saw, make the
cut, turn off (and at the end of the day empty the off-cut particles
from the machine). It would be much quicker to cut with the lead knife.
All you have to do with it is to sharpen it regularly (say every half
day) on an oil or Arkansas stone.

>And DO wear eye protection.  -  
Yep! Very important.  It is surprising how far the swarf can be thrown.
So if you are near the machine, you will be hit strongly with lead
particles.  Eye protection is a MUST!

IT is also important that you do not use your fingers to directly push
the items to be cut.  You MUST use a guide or pusher to manipulate the
lead, zinc, brass, etc., near the blade.  It cuts the lead and other
soft metals so quickly that you  could loose whole fingers in a fraction
of a second.  NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use a table saw without a guide or
pusher!

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 04:04:49 2000
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X-Path: bellatlantic.net!elsiemt
From: elsie turqman <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>, Joyce Koenig <movingeasy@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------AD8E66325A87D1A30ED22ADA"
Subject: NG  Rules for Living
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 06:42:19 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------AD8E66325A87D1A30ED22ADA
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Here are some good thoughts on how to live.  If luck comes with the
transmission, we can all use some.  Skip past the start and start
reading the rules.

Elsie

  
> >    FOR GOOD LUCK AND GOOD LIFE IN YEAR 2000 AND THEREAFTER,
> >
> >   THE FOLLOWING IS A NEPALESE GOOD LUCK TANTRA TOTEM.
> >
> >
> >
> >  This tantra totem has been sent to you for good luck.  It has been sent
> >
> >  around the world ten times so far.  You will receive good luck within
> >
> >  four days of relaying this tantra totem.  Send copies to people you think
> 
> >
> > need good luck.
> >
> >
> >
> >   Don't send money as fate has no price.  Do not keep this message.  The
> >
> >   tantra totem must leave your hands in 96 hours.
> >
> >   You will  get a very pleasant surprise.  This is true, even if  you are
> >
> >   not superstitious.
> >
> >
> >
> >   INSTRUCTIONS FOR LIFE
> >
> >
> >
> >    1.  Give people more than they expect and do it cheerfully.
> >
> >    2.  Memorize your favorite poem.
> >
> >    3.  Don't believe all you hear, spend all you have or sleep all you
> >
> >         want.
> >
> >    4.  When you say, "I love you", mean it.
> >
> >    5.  When you say, "I'm sorry", look the person in the eye.
> >
> >    6.  Be engaged at least six months before you get married.
> 
> >    7.  Believe in love at first sight.
> >
> >    8.  Never laugh at anyone's dreams. People who don't have dreams don't
> > have much.
> >
> >    9.  Love deeply and passionately.  You might get hurt but it's the only
> 
> >
> > way to live
> >         life completely.
> >
> >   10.  In disagreements, fight fairly.  No name calling.
> >
> >   11.  Don't judge people by their relatives.
> >
> >   12.  Talk slowly but think quickly.
> >
> >   13.  When someone asks you a question you don't want to answer, smile
> > and
> > ask,                                           "Why do you want to know?"
> >
> >   14.  Remember that great love and great achievements involve great risk.
> 
> >
> >   15.  Call your mom.
> >
> >   16.  Say "bless you" when you hear someone sneeze.
> >
> >   17.  When you lose, don't lose the lesson.
> >
> >   18.  Remember the three R's:  Respect for self, Respect for others,
> >
> >          Responsibility for all your actions.
> >
> >   19.  Don't let a little dispute injure a great friendship.
> >
> >   20.  When you realize you've made a mistake, take immediate steps to
> > correct it.
> >
> >   21.  Smile when picking up the phone. The caller will hear it in your
> > voice.
> >
> >   22.  Marry a man/woman you love to talk to.  As you get older, their
> > conversational         skills will be as important as any other.
> >
> >   23.  Spend some time alone.
> >
> >   24.  Open your arms to change, but don't let go of your values.
> >
> >   25.  Remember that silence is sometimes the best answer.
> >
> >   26.  Read more books and watch less TV
> >
> >   27.  Live a good, honorable life.  Then when you get older and think
> > back,
> >
> >         you'll get  to enjoy it a second time.
> >
> >   28.  Trust in God but lock your car.
> >
> >   29.  A loving atmosphere in your home is so important.  Do all you can
> > to
> >
> >         create a tranquil harmonious home.
> >
> >   30.  In disagreements with loved ones, deal with the current situation.
> >
> >         Don't bring up the past.
> >
> >   31.  Read between the lines.
> >
> >   32.  Share your knowledge.  It's a way to achieve immortality.
> >
> >   33.  Be gentle with the earth.
> >
> >   34.  Pray.  There's immeasurable power in it.
> >
> >   35.  Never interrupt when you are being flattered.
> >
> >   36.  Mind your own business.
> >
> >   37.  Don't trust a man/woman who doesn't close his/her eyes when you
> > kiss.
> >
> >   38.  Once a year, go someplace you've never been before.
> >
> >   39.  If you make a lot of money, put it to use helping others while you
> >
> >         are living. That is wealth's greatest satisfaction.
> >
> >   40.  Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a stroke of
> > luck.
> >
> >   41.  Learn the rules...and then break some.
> >
> >   42.  Remember that the best relationship is one where your love for each
> 
> >
> >        other is greater than your need for each other.
> >
> >   43.  Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it.
> >
> >   44.  Remember that your character is your destiny.
> >
> >   45.  Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon.
> >
> >
> >
> >   Now, here's the FUN part!  Send this to at least 5 people and your life
> >
> >   will improve.
> >
> >
> >
> >    0-4 people:       Your life will improve slightly.
> >    5-9 people:       Your life will improve to your liking.
> >   10-14 people:    You will have at least 5 surprises in the next 3 weeks
> >   15 and above:     Your life will improve drastically and everything you
> >   ever dreamed of will begin to take shape.
> >
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I'm not a big believer in these, but I liked the advice. 

> 
> LUCK AND LIFE
> 
>  
> 
>    FOR GOOD LUCK AND GOOD LIFE IN YEAR 2000 AND THEREAFTER, 
> 
>   THE FOLLOWING IS A NEPALESE GOOD LUCK TANTRA TOTEM.
> 
>  
> 
>  This tantra totem has been sent to you for good luck.  It has been sent 
> 
>  around the world ten times so far.  You will receive good luck within 
> 
>  four days of relaying this tantra totem.  Send copies to people you think

> 
> need good luck.
> 
>  
> 
>   Don't send money as fate has no price.  Do not keep this message.  The 
> 
>   tantra totem must leave your hands in 96 hours. 
> 
>   You will  get a very pleasant surprise.  This is true, even if  you are 
> 
>   not superstitious.
> 
>  
> 
>   INSTRUCTIONS FOR LIFE
> 
>  
> 
>    1.  Give people more than they expect and do it cheerfully. 
> 
>    2.  Memorize your favorite poem. 
> 
>    3.  Don't believe all you hear, spend all you have or sleep all you 
> 
>         want.
> 
>    4.  When you say, "I love you", mean it. 
> 
>    5.  When you say, "I'm sorry", look the person in the eye. 
> 
>    6.  Be engaged at least six months before you get married. 

>    7.  Believe in love at first sight.
> 
>    8.  Never laugh at anyone's dreams. People who don't have dreams don't 
> have much.
> 
>    9.  Love deeply and passionately.  You might get hurt but it's the only

> 
> way to live
>         life completely.
> 
>   10.  In disagreements, fight fairly.  No name calling. 
> 
>   11.  Don't judge people by their relatives. 
> 
>   12.  Talk slowly but think quickly. 
> 
>   13.  When someone asks you a question you don't want to answer, smile 
> and 
> ask,                                           "Why do you want to know?" 
> 
>   14.  Remember that great love and great achievements involve great risk.

> 
>   15.  Call your mom.
> 
>   16.  Say "bless you" when you hear someone sneeze. 
> 
>   17.  When you lose, don't lose the lesson. 
> 
>   18.  Remember the three R's:  Respect for self, Respect for others, 
> 
>          Responsibility for all your actions. 
> 
>   19.  Don't let a little dispute injure a great friendship. 
> 
>   20.  When you realize you've made a mistake, take immediate steps to 
> correct it.
> 
>   21.  Smile when picking up the phone. The caller will hear it in your 
> voice.
> 
>   22.  Marry a man/woman you love to talk to.  As you get older, their 
> conversational         skills will be as important as any other.
> 
>   23.  Spend some time alone.
> 
>   24.  Open your arms to change, but don't let go of your values. 
> 
>   25.  Remember that silence is sometimes the best answer. 
> 
>   26.  Read more books and watch less TV 
> 
>   27.  Live a good, honorable life.  Then when you get older and think 
> back,
> 
>         you'll get  to enjoy it a second time. 
> 
>   28.  Trust in God but lock your car. 
> 
>   29.  A loving atmosphere in your home is so important.  Do all you can 
> to
> 
>         create a tranquil harmonious home. 
> 
>   30.  In disagreements with loved ones, deal with the current situation. 
> 
>         Don't bring up the past.
> 
>   31.  Read between the lines.
> 
>   32.  Share your knowledge.  It's a way to achieve immortality. 
> 
>   33.  Be gentle with the earth.
> 
>   34.  Pray.  There's immeasurable power in it. 
> 
>   35.  Never interrupt when you are being flattered. 
> 
>   36.  Mind your own business.
> 
>   37.  Don't trust a man/woman who doesn't close his/her eyes when you 
> kiss.
> 
>   38.  Once a year, go someplace you've never been before. 
> 
>   39.  If you make a lot of money, put it to use helping others while you 
> 
>         are living. That is wealth's greatest satisfaction. 
> 
>   40.  Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a stroke of 
> luck.
> 
>   41.  Learn the rules...and then break some. 
> 
>   42.  Remember that the best relationship is one where your love for each

> 
>        other is greater than your need for each other. 
> 
>   43.  Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it. 
> 
>   44.  Remember that your character is your destiny. 
> 
>   45.  Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon. 
> 
>  
> 
>   Now, here's the FUN part!  Send this to at least 5 people and your life 
> 
>   will improve.
> 
>  
> 
>    0-4 people:       Your life will improve slightly. 
>    5-9 people:       Your life will improve to your liking.
>   10-14 people:    You will have at least 5 surprises in the next 3 weeks 
>   15 and above:     Your life will improve drastically and everything you 
>   ever dreamed of will begin to take shape. 
> 

--------------AD8E66325A87D1A30ED22ADA--

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 06:08:35 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Posted this on Jan 1?
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 08:41:31 -0500
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Message text written by alipea
>My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1=

x 1 ft or larger.  A design in center wit scraps surrounding it,
Doesn't this sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is
it worth it?<

1x1 ft square copper foil - framed in ?oak?
I would charge somewhere between $100-$125 depending on
the complexity of the design.  Is it worth it?  Only you can call that on=
e.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 07:52:37 2000
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X-Path: mail.com!mbwalker
From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea), glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Ali's suncatcher/window
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 10:31:19 -0500 (EST)
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Ali wrote:

<<My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1 x
1 ft or larger.  A design in center with scraps surrounding it, Doesn't this
sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is it worth it?>>

Ali,

Here's an interesting example of the difference between fusing and stained
glass work.  If we assume that the glass just is just scrap glass (therefore
it's free), then the major cost involved is the labor to put it all
together.  Once we've created the design, traditional stained glass work
calls for you to foil and solder, then patina.  How many hours will that
take?

Fusing, by contrast, calls for you to just put the arranged scraps in a kiln
and fire.  No foiling, no soldering, no patina, no cares about how small the
scraps are.  Of course the final results will look different (no soldering
lines, for instance), but fusing is an interesting alternative way to make
suncatchers. (Assuming you have the kiln, of course.)

The buttons from my site are all details from bowls I've made. If you look
at them, you'll see that while they don't look like stained glass work, they
could (perhaps with some design changes)make a great suncatcher/window, too.
You can see the buttons at: http://pweb.netcom.com/~mbwalker/  (The buttons
for "Equipment" and "Troubleshooting" are taken from bowls that were both
made using scrap glass in the way described above. The bowls each took about
half an hour (an hour at most) in labor and sold for around $65 each -- $90
to 100 retail).  If they were flat pieces (rather than bowls), they could
have been profitably sold for even less.)

(I apologize if anyone thinks this reply is an ad for my web site.  It isn't
meant to be -- I just thought the point about fused vs stained glass was
worth mentioning.)

Brad

------Original Message------
From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
To: glass@bungi.com
Sent: January 6, 2000 4:11:16 AM GMT
Subject: Posted this on Jan 1?


I only got 1 response?


Ali

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 09:23:05 2000
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From: HILLHD1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Kalidoscope Question
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 12:03:16 EST
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 Greetings all for the New Year!
My goal, in part for this year is to make some Kalidoscopes. I have kits & 
made 1 in class a couple of years ago. My question is re the oil scopes, not 
the wand ones.
I was in the twin cities last fall & caught the scope display at Southdale 
Mall.
The scopes that interested me the most were the ones with the oil filled 
wheels, they were just magical to look at! Does anyone know how they are 
made? Or where I could get intouch with someone who does. I emailed 
Kalido.com 2x with no response.  TIA  Karlene from Wisconsin
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 09:39:14 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Ali's suncatcher/window
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 11:47:06 -0500
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Brad Walker wrote:
(I apologize if anyone thinks this reply is an ad for my web site.  It isn't
meant to be--

OK, you win, I looked!  Nice stuff! I really wanted to look at the Advanced
material, but since I'm not Advanced I didn't want to cheat---

best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 09:55:10 2000
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From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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any consideration for the skill level of the.........not to mention ( I just
did) how may pieces were involved in this endeavor?

When someone asks me how much does a "shade" costs without being more
specific, my usual answer is to equate it to: how much does a car cost?"

enjoy, H


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 13:40:48 2000
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My ISP is changing mail servers!!

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 15:01:36 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 17:03:05 -0500
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Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
than foil--how would you do it?

Best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 17:08:47 2000
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From: "pj friend" <artglass@waterw.com>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 18:18:49 -0500
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the question is why would you do it???

pj



Paul Friend Architectural Glass & Design, Inc.
www.waterw.com/~artglass
Accredited Studio Member of the Stained Glass Association of America
Member International Guild of Glass Artists
Associate Member AIA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Augusta" <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 5:03 PM
Subject: Engineering problem


> Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
> by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
> in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
> 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
> than foil--how would you do it?
>
> Best wishes,
> Joseph
>
> ----
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>


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From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
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Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 20:13:44 -0500
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Joseph Augusta wrote:
> 
> Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
> by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
> in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
> 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
> than foil--how would you do it?
> 
> Best wishes,
> Joseph
> 
> ----
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does it really have to be came? i suppose the only way you could do it
is to buy sheet lead. the glass would have to be glued or it will slide
around. 

finding the lead may be more difficult though. old gutter supplies might
be one source. or a lead apron place.


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 21:15:18 2000
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To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:51:06 -0800
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    I would fuse the panel and use clear class to fill in where the colored
panels are short. Would end up with a 12 X 10 X 5/8" glass tile with no
chance of crud getting between the layers.
    Bob in 92026


    Joseph Augusta wrote:
    >
    > Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12''
wide
    > by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored--
rectangle
    > in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width,
but
    > 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
    > than foil--how would you do it?



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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 21:45:39 2000
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Subject: diamond bandsaws
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 00:14:27 EST
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HI all,

I'm new to this group and I'm in the market for a diamond bandsaw and am 
stuck between the taurus II or the gryphon c -90, but leaning more toward the 
gryphon. The tuarus looks more like tupperware to me than studio equipment, 
but I've heard nothing but good things about it. I've had trouble though 
finding specs on the gryphon beyond sales pitches. I'm curious of it's 
horsepower, weight and power consumption. Also if there are any opinions as 
to the quality of the product I'd greatly appreciate them. I'll be using it 
for cutting fused glass 1/4" - 1/2" sheets for slumping and slumped peices 
for incorporation in panels. 

TIA,

Carl Ross
Lake Avenue Ceramic and Glass Studio
Phillips, WI
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 22:33:27 2000
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: 90 days to financial independence
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 22:23:47 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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This is NOT a  SPAM  Message. Either we have corresponded before, OR we are
both members of the same "Voluntary Opt-In" List Club.  Should you desire to
be removed from my list, simply enter "remove" in the subject field and
return this E-Mail.
      Thanks, and Have the Best New Year Ever!!

 . . . . . . . . . . . . FINALLY!!!  -----  Just listen to this:

 Your whole financial picture is about to change beginning IMMEDIATELY... In
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beginning TODAY.....

After you have listened to this overview and you need more information (as I
did), simply email:

dalereece@home.com <mailto:dalereece@home.com>

for a WEBSITE you will never forget, and for more info on how this SIMPLE
system is working for thousands of people worldwide.  You will QUICKLY FIND
this is the EASIEST thing you have ever done, requiring the least amount of
you time..........for the BIGGEST INCOME you have ever made.

 Thanks for your time, and the Best to You and Yours as this new Millennium
unfolds,

Jag-Dreamer

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 22:40:50 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: New Toyo cutter
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 22:35:08 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Here is some information on the new Toyo cutter as discussed on the Prodigy
glass bulletin board.

Bob in 92026 (also CATS, Bob)

Skorzglas writes:


>But now I have a question. It says it "features a barrel with an adjustable
>four-position saddle." No instructions come with it and I can figure out
two
>positions - if you're familiar with the saddle which comes in two pieces,
>one would be putting the saddle closest to the oil bladder and the other
>would be putting the saddle closest to the gold screw on top. That would
put
>your hand closer or further away from the cutter itself. Is anyone familiar
>with the new cutter or does anyone have a web site address for Toyo (Glass
>Accessories International is the manufacturer). Thanks!! Jane
>
>
>glassman
>Moderator   posted 01-05-00 01:15 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Jane,
>I have one of the new Toyo cutters.
>The part with the projection can be placed either up or down. The round
>spacer can be placed above or below it. Ergo: four positions. I put the
>projection in the web of my hand.
>
>When I first got my cutter it was very uncomfortable to use. Then I
>discovered how to adjust it. It is now my favorite cutter. The tapping
>action (slight) of the wheel seems to do a better job of scoring. I cut a
>bunch of complex bevels from !/4" plate glue chip stock yesterday and had
my
>best luck yet with this material.
>
>I think this cutter is a winner.
>
>------------------
>CATS, Bob
>
>
>
>skorzglas
>Member   posted 01-05-00 11:17 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Bob, thanks for the info - duh didn't think about reversing the "saddle." I
>loved mine from the minute I put it in my hand - am using it with the small
>spacer at the top and the saddle in the lowest position, thus putting my
>finger closest to the cutting wheel; but men have larger hands so probably
>you have yours adjusted upward. Shouldn't they include directions, or are
>most people not as dumb as I am - please don't answer that <g>? It is THE
>most comfortable cutter I've ever had. Jane
>
>glassman
>Moderator   posted 01-05-00 04:46 PM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>I suspect that I have larger hands than you do but I have my cutter rigged
>the same with the saddle down and the spacer on top.
>It seems to oil better too. There is a valve rather than a wick.
>
>Good cutting.
>
>------------------
>CATS, Bob
>
>
>
>ronray
>Member   posted 01-06-00 03:44 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Duh ---
>Thanks to you two, I went and looked at the cutter which I had been using
>for a couple of months and loving it. Admitting to my stupidity I didn't
>even realize it was adjustable and was just using it as it came from the
>supplier with the spacer at the bottom of the barrel. Moved it above the
>support wand and it seems even more comfortable. A really incredible tool,
>and I don't have to keep cleaning up spilled oil.
>------------------
>Ron Ray
>
>
>
>skorzglas
>Member   posted 01-06-00 11:02 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Maybe the manufacturer needs to wake up and put instructions with the
cutter
>for people like "us" <g>. Jane
>
>glassman
>Moderator   posted 01-07-00 01:07 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>You're sure right about the need for a good instruction sheet. Toyo Pistol
>Grips come either two or three to the box. There is one sheet of
>instructions per box. They've been doing this for years. Go figure.
>Was using my tapper cutter today and it sure did the job. Made a long score
>in 1/4" plate glass and broke it out with my hands. Previously would be
>placing the score at the edge if the table, raising the glass and slamming
>down to get the score to run.
>
>I am not sure but I THINK the wheel and axle are one piece and the axle is
a
>square or hex. When the cutter is pulled along at a good rate I can feel
the
>vibration that the cutter seems to be making. Someone said this drives the
>score deeper into the glass. Perhaps so but I have had better luck with
>light scores rather than heavy when using the older style Toyo cutters or
>any other for that matter.
>
>I don't think the new heads can be used with existing grips. There seems to
>be a small size difference.
>
>I feel this is a must buy item. Retail should not be more than $40.00. If
it
>saves glass it will quickly pay for itself.
>
>------------------
>CATS, Bob


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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 23:32:38 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jan 2000 23:28:26 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Toyo cutter
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 23:21:20 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>>Bob,

What is the address of this discussion group?  Did you post it before?
Thanks.

Tom<<

I don't think you can access the Prodigy chat boards unless you are a
Prodigy member. The glass board is a sub board under the crafts board. If
anything really good comes along I am likely to repost it here.

Bob in 92026

Bob

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 00:31:34 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Toyo cutter
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 00:12:38 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Tom,
Here is the page for the Prodigy glass board.

http://crafts.bb.prodigy.net/craftsb/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=St
ained+Glass&number=17&DaysPrune=10&LastLogin=

You may be able to read the board but not post to it.

Bob

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 06:04:38 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:02 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/6/00 8:09:17 PM, artglass@waterw.com writes:

>the question is why would you do it???

That's what my Enquiring Mind wants to know.... but who knows what evil lurks 
in the minds of artists? :-)

As for the "how," if I read the original post right you've got 5 pieces, each 
12" in one direction. Prob noblem. Frame each piece in U came, stack 'em up 
and solder the edges together just like you would with copper foil.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 11:32:12 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:23:47 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Joseph:  Not sure what you are trying to achieve but there are several
possibilities you could think about:  (1)  Since you are using cathedral
glass you could use the ultra-violet adhesive and use lead came around the
outside borders only; (2)  Copper foil the panels and solder them together
where they touch each other; or (3) Wrap each rectangle with lead came and
solder them where each joins another.  What are you making?  Peggy

On Thu, 6 Jan 2000, Joseph Augusta wrote:

> Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
> by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
> in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
> 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
> than foil--how would you do it?
> 
> Best wishes,
> Joseph
> 
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 21:04:43 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
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Subject: Keeping inventory
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 23:14:22 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0051_01BF5964.EE8BBC40
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We are thinking about using Access to keep a running inventory (perhaps =
running queries monthly or weekly to add in newly made items and take =
out sales) (those tables would also keep track of sales).  Does anyone =
know of an Access book that addresses inventory?  Yup, I already know =
quite a bit about Access, but am trying to figure out the details and =
the queries.  Alot of making Access work is in the planning.

Meanwhile, I'm thinking of a claddaugh design...lots of claddaugh rings =
on the Web!  That's one of my chores for the weekend, doing mostly =
design work! =20

Dorothy

------=_NextPart_000_0051_01BF5964.EE8BBC40
Content-Type: text/html;
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We are thinking about using Access to =
keep a=20
running inventory (perhaps running queries monthly or weekly to add in =
newly=20
made items and take out sales) (those tables would also keep track of=20
sales).&nbsp; Does anyone know of an Access book that addresses =
inventory?&nbsp;=20
Yup, I already know quite a bit about Access, but am trying to figure =
out the=20
details and the queries.&nbsp; Alot of making Access work is in the=20
planning.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Meanwhile, I'm thinking of a claddaugh=20
design...lots of claddaugh rings on the Web!&nbsp; That's one of my =
chores for=20
the weekend, doing mostly design work!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dorothy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 21:28:15 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Selling Diamond Laser Speedster
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 21:15:24 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

Used once and purchased less than a year ago.
Price $175.00 plus shipping (weighs approx. 20 pounds)
2 year guarantee still good and comes with 2 new blades.
Will be sent in original box to you.

If interested email me off group.

See ya

Pam


--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://www.stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 07:06:26 2000
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From: GlasLdy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: SG Biz For Sale
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 09:36:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I don't know if I should be doing this on the list but after seeing Pam put 
the laser saw up for sale ......I thought I would let everyone know I am 
offering my SG business on eBay.  So if you are on the east coast or midwest 
and have thought of starting your own or adding a wholesale division to your 
existing biz please e-mail me off list.  It's really quite a deal!
Thanks, and I'm sorry if I stepped on any toes.
Janice 
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=232136755
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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 11:06:10 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:GlasLdy@aol.com" <GlasLdy@aol.com>
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Subject: SG Biz For Sale
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 13:46:18 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:GlasLdy@aol.com
>I don't know if I should be doing this on the list but after seeing Pam
put =

the laser saw up for sale ......I thought I would let everyone know I am =

offering my SG business on eBay.  So if you are on the east coast or
midwest =

and have thought of starting your own or adding a wholesale division to
your =

existing biz please e-mail me off list.  It's really quite a deal!
Thanks, and I'm sorry if I stepped on any toes.
Janice <

Are you kidding?? This is what networking is all about.
Can't imagine why anyone would be offended by it....

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 17:54:32 2000
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From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: the power of one n/g
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 21:34:57 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Hart <jeffhart@wesnet.com>
To: Bob Michael <BDLAS@aol.com>; Joshua Michael <jlrookie@yahoo.com>; Uncle
Wayne & Aunt Kay <Rfannin@hsnp.com>; Sue Michael <Rxy98@aol.com>; Stephanie
Ann Michael <MSWeside@aol.com>; Rick & Anita Richmond
<glassx@bardstown.com>; Rexx & Sheila Bradley <rexx@gateway.net>; Nick &
Byrda Hart <byrdah@aol.com>; Lori & Tito <Loydeepop@cs.com>; Leah Michael
<lemabean01@aol.com>; Koester Pavilion <kpesd@wesnet.com>; Keith W. Hart
<HartKV@aol.com>; Jim & Judy Kaster <kasterja@bright.net>; Aunt Margie &
Larry Snyder <RTDWKR897@aol>; com@mail.bardstown.com
<com@mail.bardstown.com>; Amy Michael <flamey03@aol.com>
Date: Friday, January 07, 2000 12:36 PM
Subject: Fw: the power of one


>this one is really good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: TAYJAY94 <tayjay94@email.msn.com>
>To: Jenny <quervi@aol.com>; Jeff <jeffhart@wesnet.com>; Diane
><DPHDBKER@AOL.COM>; Dad & Mary <grouchesx4@aol.com>; Clarissa
><clarissacopta@exchange.daytonoh.ncr.com>; Chris <sakimahkee@aol.com>;
>Murray <yarrum43@aol.com>; Rhonda <ro136@aol.com>; Lynda
<mcfallla@aol.com>;
>linda <linda.hopson@wright.edu>
>Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 6:15 PM
>Subject: the power of one
>
>
>>the power of one!
>>
>>>> One day, when I was a freshman in high school, I saw a kid from my
class
>>>> was walking home from school. His name was Kyle. It looked like he was
>>>> carrying all of his books. I thought to myself, "Why would anyone bring
>>>> home all his books on a Friday? He must really be a nerd." I had quite
a
>>>> weekend planned (parties and a football game with my friends tomorrow
>>>> afternoon), so I shrugged my shoulders and went on.
>>>>
>>>> As I was walking, I saw a bunch of kids running toward him. They ran at
>>>> him, knocking all his books out of his arms and tripping him so he
>landed
>>>> in the dirt. His glasses went flying, and I saw them land in the grass
>>>about ten feet from him. He looked up and I saw this terrible sadness in
>>his eyes. My heart went out to him. So, I jogged over to him and as he
>>crawled
>>>around looking for his glasses, and I saw a tear in his eye. As I handed
>>him his glasses, I said, "Those guys are jerks. They really should  get
>>lives."
>>>>
>>>> He looked at me and said, "Hey thanks!" There was a big smile on his
>>face.
>>>It was one of those smiles that showed real gratitude. I helped him pick
>up
>>>his books, and asked him where he lived. As it turned out, he lived  near
>>me, so I asked him why I had never seen him before. He said he had  gone
to
>>>private school before now. I would have never hung out with a  private
>>school kid before. We talked all the way home, and I carried his  books.
He
>>turned
>>>out to be a pretty cool kid. I asked him if he wanted to  play football
on
>>>Saturday with me and my friends. He said yes.
>>>
>>>We hung all weekend and the more I got to know Kyle, the more I liked
him.
>>>And my friends thought the same of him. Monday morning came, and there
was
>>>Kyle with the huge stack of books again. I stopped him and said, boy, you
>>>are gonna really build some serious muscles with this pile of books
>>>everyday!"  He just laughed and handed me half the books.
>>>>
>>>> Over the next four years, Kyle and I became best friends. When we were
>>>> seniors, we began to think about college. Kyle decided on Georgetown,
>and
>>I was going to Duke. I knew that we would always be friends, that the
miles
>>>would never be a problem. He was going to be a doctor, and I was going
for
>>>business on a football scholarship.
>>>>
>>>> Kyle was valedictorian of our class. I teased him all the time about
>>being a nerd. He had to prepare a speech for graduation. I was so glad it
>>wasn't
>>me having to get up there and speak.
>>>>
>>>> Graduation day, I saw Kyle. He looked great. He was one of those guys
>>that really found himself during high school. He filled out and actually
>>looked
>>>good in glasses. He had more dates than me and all the girls loved him!
>>Boy, sometimes I was jealous. Today was one of those days.
>>>>
>>>I could see that he was nervous about his speech. So, I smacked him on
the
>>>back and said, "Hey, big guy, you'll be great!" He looked at me with one
>of
>>>those looks (the really grateful one) and smiled. "Thanks," he said.
>>>>
>>>> As he started his speech, he cleared his throat, and began. "Graduation
>>is a time to thank those who helped you make it through those tough years.
>>Your parents, your teachers, your siblings, maybe a coach... but mostly
>>your
>>>friends. I am here to tell all of you that being a friend to someone is
>the
>>>best gift you can give them. I am going to tell you a story."
>>>>
>>>> I just looked at my friend with disbelief as he told the story of the
>>first day we met. He had planned to kill himself over the weekend. He
>talked
>>of
>>how he had cleaned out his locker so his mom wouldn't have to do it later
>>and
>>was carrying his stuff home. He looked hard at me and gave me a little
>>smile.
>>>"Thankfully, I was saved. My friend saved me from doing the unspeakable."
>>I heard the gasp go through the crowd as this handsome, popular boy told
us
>>all about his weakest moment. I saw his mom and dad looking at me and
>>smiling
>>>that same grateful smile. Not until that moment did I realize it's depth.
>>>
>>>Never underestimate the power of your actions. With one small gesture you
>>can change a person's life.  God places us in each other's lives to effect
>>>another in some way. Look for God in others.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 20:29:38 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!gfc20002
From: gfc20002@aol.com
To: babyboomer203@hotmail.com
Subject: Reverse Aging 10 To 20 Years
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 23:05:29 -0500
Message-ID: <200001090405.XAA02979@howa.lib.md.us>
Precedence: bulk


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Anti-Aging Counselor


****** We apologize if you are not interested in medical news. The Internet is the fastest method of distributing this type of timely medical information. If you wish to have your e-mail address deleted from our scientific update database, DO NOT USE THE REPLY BUTTON. Simply click here - http://650814153/   -- and select the unsubscribe button at the top right side of the page.



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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 16:03:54 2000
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X-Path: home.com!wwstamps
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: IGGA
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 17:33:52 -0500
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Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??
Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
aplet. Thanks! Sharon
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 17:44:09 2000
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From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Sharon Milliken" <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: IGGA
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:19:02 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Sharon,

The igga site was hit by hackers.  Christie told me on Friday that they
expected to have it back up on Saturday.  Guess they all took the weekend
off.  I'm anxious to have it back also.

Any word, Christie?

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 2:33 PM
Subject: IGGA


> Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??
> Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
> aplet. Thanks! Sharon
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 18:05:44 2000
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X-Path: home.com!wwstamps
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: wierd things happening
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 20:37:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Dave, you may be interested in this! A while ago when I posted a message
to bungi about IGGA someone named Marinell was in a stained glass
pattern website and got my e-mail. She said she didn't even know what
Bungi was. She didn't say which website but I still have her e-mail if
you want to investigate further.Sharon
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 18:49:59 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 21:25:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Sharon Milliken
>Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??=

Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
aplet. Thanks! Sharon<

We had a hacker and are in the process of moving
the site to a new server... should be up again next
week.  Can you imagine anyone being so bored, they
have to hack an innocuous little glass site???????
Glad you noticed, though.... was beginning to think
nobody ever visited the IGGA website.  You're only
the fifth person to mention it was missing!!!  Guess
we had better make it a little more exciting for the
members so we get more complaints when it's down!
ROFLO.

Cheers,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
IGGA Treasurer
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 20:04:53 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: More lead questions
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 22:52:11 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Now for some more lead questions.
I have successfully mastered cutting larger sized leads thanks to all the 
suggestions from the very helpful Bungians.  Now, can someone please tell me 
how to bend the larger sizes without kinking them? 
Thank you again in advance!
Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 03:53:52 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!SGriffiSBG
From: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: plating question
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 06:45:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

hi-need some advice/information

Am making items that children will handle and thought I would investigate 
plating etc.(new at sg)  If any of you have information/sites etc. I can 
access I would appreciate it.  thanks in advance
Shirley g.
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 09:27:17 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:51:47 -0800 (PST)
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I haven't recieved any mail for about a week now...Help!!





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 11:29:05 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
Subject: Re: plating question
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 18:52:30 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Don't bother plating,  fuse it instead.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, SGriffiSBG@aol.com writes
>hi-need some advice/information
>
>Am making items that children will handle and thought I would investigate 
>plating etc.(new at sg)  If any of you have information/sites etc. I can 
>access I would appreciate it.  thanks in advance
>Shirley g.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 11:35:53 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Tight radius for broad lead (was:More lead questions)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 18:32:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

The degree of bend possible is directly proportionate to the width of
the lead and whether it is flat or round.  Round lead will form a
smaller radius than flat, size for size.

It is the nature of the material which requires shallow curves for wide
lead and allows tight curves for narrow lead.  It is one of the things
to make use of in designing.

However,  If you want to appear to bend broad leads in a very tight
radius, you can use a narrow lead to do the leading.  Then add strips of
lead to the in and out side of the curve.  You do this by cutting the
heart out of the narrow lead, smoothing the resulting two leaves and
bend them to fit the curve.  Then solder at the ends and sweat solder to
the "real" came.  Some would suggest doing this after all other
soldering and finishing is completed. 

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Now for some more lead questions.
>I have successfully mastered cutting larger sized leads thanks to all the 
>suggestions from the very helpful Bungians.  Now, can someone please tell me 
>how to bend the larger sizes without kinking them? 
>Thank you again in advance!
>Kauriee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 13:53:45 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA web site
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 16:31:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Sharon Milliken
>Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??=

Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
aplet. Thanks! Sharon<

As several of you by now have noticed, the IGGA web site has recently
experienced a HACKER doing some junk to the web site.  Not to worry.

The IGGA web site is backed up off-site, and is right now in the process
of changing to another internet server provider, and is being restored
from the backup files.  We expect to be back up and running hack-free
within the next couple of days.

My thanks to Tim Atwood for being our IGGA backup man!!!  And my
thanks to "Art On View" (http://www.artonview.com) for being the new
IGGA server.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 15:07:28 2000
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X-Path: bellsouth.net!ladona
From: Donna Helms <ladona@bellsouth.net>
To: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wierd things happening
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:49:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

This is weird.  Ever since I signed on to receive mailings from bungi.com,
I've gotten eveybody and their brother's e-mail.
Donna

Sharon Milliken wrote:

> Dave, you may be interested in this! A while ago when I posted a message
> to bungi about IGGA someone named Marinell was in a stained glass
> pattern website and got my e-mail. She said she didn't even know what
> Bungi was. She didn't say which website but I still have her e-mail if
> you want to investigate further.Sharon
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 15:38:34 2000
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X-Path: soltec.net!tamis
From: "Tami Siddens" <tamis@soltec.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Bungi Archive - General Amnesty
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:21:14 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to you both - Chris and Jim.  I know I for one was totally
overwhelmed by the pure mass of emails, what a learning experience!  To
quote a lovely elder I know, "There will be stars in your crown".  Tami

Tami Siddens
Envision Success
Professional Coaching/Consulting Services
Member International Coach Federation
tamis@soltec.net

Attract an extraordinary life!

"Just don't give up trying to do what you really want to do. Where there is
love and inspiration, I don't think you can go wrong." - Ella Fitzgerald





-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Kaiser <christkaiser@yahoo.com>
To: Awbaxter@aol.com <Awbaxter@aol.com>; bungivols@yahoo.com
<bungivols@yahoo.com>; embee@mediaone.net <embee@mediaone.net>;
bobdu@prodigy.net <bobdu@prodigy.net>; gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us
<gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>; jazzykid@tir.com <jazzykid@tir.com>;
kseeglass@netzero.net <kseeglass@netzero.net>; tifstyorig@juno.com
<tifstyorig@juno.com>; CncptThnkr@aol.com <CncptThnkr@aol.com>;
rballard@icsp.net <rballard@icsp.net>; shigbee@mtcon.net
<shigbee@mtcon.net>; brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk
<brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk>; tamis@soltec.net <tamis@soltec.net>
Date: Monday, January 10, 2000 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: Bungi Archive - General Amnesty


>Anne,
>
>Thank you!
>
>I also wanted to take this opportunity to give my
>heartfelt and warm thanks to Jim. Some of you may know
>I started a new job in the beginning of November,
>since that time I have had to put the Bungi project on
>the back burner. Jim has totally stepped up to the
>plate and taken responsibility, with good humor, and
>without complaint. I am extremely grateful. 8D
>All that has been done since that time was done solely
>by Jim, and I know its been no small amount of work!
>*hearty applause for Jim!!!*
>My grateful thanks,
>Chris
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>


----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 15:55:39 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: IGGA web site
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 15:21:50 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Christie

Glad to hear it's getting solved slowly but surely.  Here's an important
question since I have over 1000 cards out with my web site as
www.igga.org/synergy.   Please, please, please tell me that the web site
addy will be the same.

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Christie A. Wood <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 1:31 PM
Subject: IGGA web site


> Message text written by Sharon Milliken
> >Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??=
>
> Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
> aplet. Thanks! Sharon<
>
> As several of you by now have noticed, the IGGA web site has recently
> experienced a HACKER doing some junk to the web site.  Not to worry.
>
> The IGGA web site is backed up off-site, and is right now in the process
> of changing to another internet server provider, and is being restored
> from the backup files.  We expect to be back up and running hack-free
> within the next couple of days.
>
> My thanks to Tim Atwood for being our IGGA backup man!!!  And my
> thanks to "Art On View" (http://www.artonview.com) for being the new
> IGGA server.
>
> Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
> Art Glass Ensembles
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 16:28:08 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA web site
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 19:01:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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And my thanks to Christie Wood, Executive
Director of the International Guild of Glass
Artists for handling the situation so quickly
and professionally.  Am looking forward to
seeing the IGGA site up and running again
soon and even more so to the exciting changes!

Thanks Christie!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
IGGA Treasurer
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 17:07:03 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Wedding Picture Frame
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 19:48:44 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Would any of you out there in Bungiland happen to have a picture frame
pattern or picture of a picture frame that would be appropriate for a
Wedding Gift.  I am going to a wedding this Saturday coming up (nothing
like waiting to the last minute) so I would have to have a pattern by
Thursday at least.

Thanks in advance, I have faith that someone will come through for me.

Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 17:26:44 2000
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From: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
To: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: plating question
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 20:15:48 EST
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what is fusing?
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 18:57:13 2000
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:37:58 -0500
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Greetings Friends,

My partners and I have been approached about constructing a wine-cellar 
door. 

There will be a mahogany door constructed; size of opening for glass is 
still up in the air, but I'll assume it's going to be on the order of 30 
inches wide by 70 inches deep. The wine cellar itself will be kept around 
50 degrees F., the basement in which it is located will probably be kept 
around 68-70 degrees.

I had hoped we could construct the panel and have it lay flush with 
another piece of plate glass behind it. However the door manufacturer 
said he would be wanting at least 5/8 inch between the two layers for 
insulation purposes, so there goes my hopes for additional strengthening.

To make matters more complicated, the owners want a design only on the 
left one-third, around the top, and going to the bottom on the right, of 
grapes and vines. This is to leave space to see a mural painted on the 
wall behind the door. They are adamant about not wanting anything else in 
the whole door but plain glass - not a solder line or rebar anywhere!

I don't see how this can be doable unless we make an overlay only of the 
grapes and vines, attaching it to the one piece of plate glass installed 
in the door.

Any thoughts/help/counseling would be greatly appreciated!

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 21:36:23 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Picture frames
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 00:23:14 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This isn't really a picture frame pattern, but something that I do all the 
time for wedding gifts.  I get a wonderful response from it as well! (not to 
mention, some business sometimes too!)
Take the wedding invitation and trim it to fit a 4x6, 5x7 or oval bevel.   
"Sandwich" the invitation in between the bevel and a piece of clear glass. 
(pressed flowers in the corners make a nice touch too.) Use wide copperfoil 
to wrap both pieces of glass together. Cut thin strips (1/2") of colored 
glass that match the colors in the invitation to make a border around the 
bevel. Solder. Frame with 1/8" zinc came. Clean. (Be careful not to get it 
too wet, as it is not waterproof and moisture can get in-between the two 
pieces if you are not careful. You can put the picture frame back board on it 
to make it stand up, or  you can hang it.  You can also make it two sided 
(hinged in the middle) and make one side of it the invitation, and the other 
side a blank picture frame for the wedding photo.
This is SO SIMPLE and quick!
Hope this helps!
Kauriee

Would any of you out there in Bungiland happen to have a picture frame
pattern or picture of a picture frame that would be appropriate for a
Wedding Gift.  I am going to a wedding this Saturday coming up (nothing
like waiting to the last minute) so I would have to have a pattern by
Thursday at least.

Thanks in advance, I have faith that someone will come through for me.

Caren
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 00:44:31 2000
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X-Path: post.com!spy2
From: spy2@post.com
To: Friend@public.com
Subject: INTERNET SPY
Date: Tue, 09 Nov 99 23:07:31 EST
Message-ID: <200001110821.JAA07695@www1.mclink.it>
Precedence: bulk

////////////////////////////////////////
 One time mailing, no need for removal.
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 11:32:17 2000
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X-Path: inter-prog.co.uk!alan
From: "Alan Faiers" <alan@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Glass@Bungi.Com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:52:48 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I recall that, some months ago, someone here mentioned in passing a
well-known (?) picture of two lovers beneath a waterfall. I'm about to
embark on building an en-suite bathroom, and wonder if it might make the
basis for a SG shower screen design.
Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Alan


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 11:42:29 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: summer jobs available for s.g. artists
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:10:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi folk.  I'm passing this along, since it came into the IGGA email.
I've heard of this group.  They've been doing this international summer
camp for years.  In fact, a couple of years ago I considered applying
for the position.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA

-------------Forwarded Message-----------------

From:	INTERNET:summer@hiddenvalleycamp.com, INTERNET:summer@hiddenvalleyc=
amp.com
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:members@igga.org

Date:	12/10/1999  7:37 AM
RE:	summer jobs
 =

Hello. I would like to post the following on bulletin - jobs boards or
in a college jobs newsletter

Please let me know if you are able to do this ...

Thank you
Ellen L. Freeman
----------------------------
STAINED GLASS ARTISTS WANTED

We look for mature, creative, independent people who possess interesting
backgrounds and previous experience with children. Counselors teach or
assist 4 workshops daily in areas that include waterfront (lake and
pool), farm animal and llama care, English riding, crafts (including
stained glass and pottery), B & W photography, theater, dance, guitar,
sports, mountain biking, ropes course, and other outdoor activities.
Counselors also live in a cabin with 1 or 2 other counselors and share
responsibility for the care of a group of campers.
--
    HIDDEN VALLEY CAMP
    Freedom, Maine 04941
    Peter & Meg Kassen - Directors

    An International Children's Community for Over 50 Years

       Email: summer@hiddenvalleycamp.com

       Phone: 800-922-6737
       From Overseas: 207-342-5177
       Fax: 207-342-5685








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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 12:02:10 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: Glass Art Society Conference
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:11:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

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Hi again folk.  Here's a press release from the Glass Art Society
about the upcoming conference.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	Glass Art Society, INTERNET:cynthiasharp@earthlink.net
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:members@igga.org
Date:	12/15/1999  5:37 PM
RE:	Glass Art Society Conference

Contact: Penny Berk, Executive Director
Cynthia Sharp, Communications Director  206-382-1305
----------------------------------------------------
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Glass Art Society to hold its 30th Annual Conference
Bridge to the Future
June 8-11, 2000
 in Brooklyn, New York
hosted by UrbanGlass and Long Island University
=85 Pre-Conference Brochure, with program and registration information, i=
s
now available from the Glass Art Society.
=85 Registration begins January 15, 2000.
The largest gathering of glass artists ever recorded will convene in
Brooklyn, New York for the 30th anniversary conference of the Glass Art
Society.  Four days of demonstrations, lectures, panels, exhibitions,
workshops, tours, technical display, and parties will provide 2,000 artis=
ts
and glass enthusiasts from around the world the opportunity to learn, and=

share ideas, experience and technical innovations. Founded in 1971 by a
handful of artist/educators who wanted to exchange information and ideas
about the new technologies available, G.A.S. membership has grown to over=

2,500 and includes members from 45 countries.
THE CONFERENCE PROGRAM
=46rom Thursday's Opening Ceremonies in the Brooklyn Museum of Art and th=
e
Brooklyn Botanic Gardens to the Millennium Marbles Mania Tournament on
Sunday, conference goers can expect non-stop activity.  Glassworking
demonstrations take place at UrbanGlass's 17,000 square foot facility in
the mornings, while lectures, panel discussions, Technical Display, the
Education Center and more take place in the afternoons at Long Island
University.  Lectures include topics as varied as Roman Glass: Window Int=
o
An Ancient World; Glass Seals and Thermal Expansion Compatibility; Forged=

Glass Figurines and The Structure of Transparency.  Panel discussions
include Art Dealers in the Hot Seat; Blowpipe for Hire; Critics and
Curators Look at Glass, and Emerging Artists, while demonstrations cover
glassworking techniques such as lampworking, casting and blowing.  Please=

see page 3 for list of participating demonstrators, lecturers and panelis=
ts.

NEW FEATURES THIS YEAR
The always-popular Education Center has grown so much it has been divided=

into two parts: The Student Center and the Resource Room.  The Student
Center will allow students currently enrolled (or interested) in glass
programs the opportunity to meet and exchange information on schools,
scholarships and other items of interest.  The Resource Room will emphasi=
ze
career and continuing education issues for the "lifetime student", with a=

focus on individuals not enrolled in a formal program.   The Student
Auction, another new feature, will include works by G.A.S. Student member=
s.
Funds raised from the Auction will offset Student Center expenses and hel=
p
subsidize low student fees.

G.A.S. AUCTIONS
In addition to the Student Auction (see above), the Annual Auction and th=
e
Goblet Grab allow conference participants the chance to purchase unique
works of art while supporting the Glass Art Society.  A portion of procee=
ds
from the Goblet Grab go to the Craft Emergency Relief Fund, a non-profit
organization.  The Annual Auction is open to the public ($50 per ticket;
contact G.A.S. for more information.)

TECHNICAL DISPLAY
The always-popular Technical Display gives attendees the chance to browse=

and purchase glass-related materials and supplies.  With 60 booths, the
2000 Tech Display will be the largest in G.A.S.'s history.

EXHIBITIONS
Galleries and museums throughout New York will mount glass-related shows =
in
conjunction with the G.A.S. Conference. The American Craft Museum shows
work by Sandy Skoglund that includes glass dragonflies; Bard Center for
Graduate Studies in the Decorative Arts features Roman Glass: Reflections=

of Everyday Life, curated by Dr. Stuart J. Fleming of the University of
Pennsylvania;  the Brooklyn Museum of Art has a local focus with Explorin=
g
the Museum: 12 Artists Working at UrbanGlass; The International Student
Exhibition takes place at Long Island University's Triangle Gallery; The
Brooklyn Botanic Garden houses Glass Flowers by Paul Stankard: A Tribute =
to
Walt Whitman.  D.U.M.B.O. Art Center highlights large scale glass
installations and sculptures.  The Friday Night Gallery Hop features more=

than a dozen gallery openings in Manhattan and Brooklyn,  offering
attendees the rare opportunity to view multiple glass exhibitions in one
evening.  See attached for Exhibition details.

TOURS AND TOURNAMENTS
A tour of Greenwich Village Stained Glass Windows and a behind-the-scenes=

tour of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's glass collection are two of the
special fundraising events offered in addition to the regular conference
program to those who wish to extend their conference experience.   The
Millennium Marbles Mania Tournament at Wollman Rink in Prospect Park is
expected to be the world's largest!

WORKSHOPS
Conference goers can make the most of their trip to New York by attending=

Pre- and Post-Conference Workshops.  Held at UrbanGlass in Brooklyn, thes=
e
workshops offer hands-on experience in a variety of glassworking
techniques, from beginning to advanced.  Among the workshops offered are
Kilnforming: Beyond the Basics; Techniques in Furnace-Blown Beads;
Beginning Glassblowing; The Lampwork/Neon/Blowing Connection and The
Figure: Painted and Sculpted.  For more information on workshops and
classes, contact Beth Lipman, UrbanGlass Education Director directly at
718-625-3685 x237; E-Mail urbaned@aol.com.

AWARD RECIPIENTS; KEYNOTE AND LABINO LECTURERS
Lifetime Achievement Award: Klaus Moje
Honorary Lifetime Membership: Ginny Ruffner
Keynote Speaker: Jamie Carpenter: The Structure of Transparency
Labino Lecturer: Henry E. Hagy: Glass Seals and Thermal Expansion Compati=
bility

ARTISTS AND LECTURERS

 Demonstrating Artists as of 12/13/99
Hank Murta Adams
Lucio Bubacco
Suzanne Charbonnet
Scott  Chaseling
John Drury
Mark Ferguson
Suellen Fowler
Hans-Godo Fr=E4bel
Katherine  Gray
Dante Marioni
Robbie Miller
Janis Miltenberger
James Minson
Klaus Moje
Jim Mongrain
Jay Musler
Pike Powers
The Bead Project
Paul Stankard
Jeff Zimmerman

Lecturers and Panelists as of 12/13/99
Arlon Bayliss
Magdalena Campos-Pons
James Carpenter, James Carpenter Design Assoc., Inc.
John Christie
Arthur Danto
Stuart J. Fleming
Glass Axis Studio
Henry  E. Hagy
Douglas Heller, Heller Gallery
Carole Hochman, Barry Friedman Gallery
Dinah Hulet
Adam Kamens, Hot Soup Studio
Joy Kelley
Michael Krumrine
Kim Levin
Beth Lipman, UrbanGlass
Brett Littman, UrbanGlass
Bonita Marx, Marx-Saunders Gallery
Thomas McEvilley
David Medina
Klaus Moje
Chris Mount, Museum of Modern Art
Kathleen Mulcahy, Pittsburgh Glass Ctr
Shaelene Murray
Dennis Oppenheim
Justin Parker
Shital Pattani, Staffordshire Univ., UK
John Perreault, UrbanGlass
Judy Pfaff
Public Glass Studio
Narcissus Quagliata
Monona Rossol, A.C.T.S.
Ginny Ruffner
Ruth Shortt
Lowery  Sims, Metropolitan Museum of Art
Robert Storr, Museum of Modern Art
Ruth T. Summers
Lawry Swidler
Louis Thompson, Staffordshire Univ., UK
Richard Whiteley

 The Glass Art Society (G.A.S.) is a non-profit organization of artists,
educators, historians, students, collectors, critics, manufacturers and
others interested and involved in the production, technology and aestheti=
cs
of glass.
Each year G.A.S. holds an Annual Conference, publishes the annual G.A.S.
Journal, bi-monthly G.A.S. Newsletter, and annual Membership and Educatio=
n
Roster.  The Administrative office in Seattle, Washington, constantly
fields contemporary glass-related questions. An active web site
(www.glassart.org) provides ongoing information, conference, membership a=
nd
registration forms,  and categorized links to members' web sites.
For photos or more information, contact the Glass Art Society at:
Tel: 206-382-1305; fax 206-382-2630; E-mail: glassartsoc@earthlink.net,
Web: www.glassart.org
1305 Fourth Ave. #711, Seattle, WA  98101-2401 USA=

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 12:38:06 2000
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X-Path: aisl.bc.ca!atwoods
From: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "suzy" <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:10:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001110236.VAA15302@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>>
Precedence: bulk

Look at a door I made at http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/hostud2.htm
(construction detail at http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/hostud5.htm ).  It is
different than what you describe, but I think it may have some solutions to
some of the construction problems you are describing.  It has double layered
glass (1/2 inch spacing).  One layer is simple copper foil work.  The other
has no foil lines (it is colored, but it could just as easily be plain glass
as you describe).  For what you are describing there would be more glass and
less wood in the overall design also.  Plus it sounds like the woodwork is
being done by another company which may have other specific methods they
want to use.

If after looking at the door and reading the construction descriptions, you
feel any of what I did would be useful in your design, I can give more
detail on the construction methods.

If the client wants true double paned hermetically sealed glass for
insulation, then you may need to do something different than what I did in
the door above.  I have thought about different possibilities for this in
the past, but I have not actually done them.  The general idea would be to
start with two plain sheets of glass the final size for the glass portion of
the door.  The design would then be rendered onto one of the sheets (or
possibly both) with either etching, fused (kilned) glass paints or
chemically bonded coloured glass or some combination of these.  The finished
sheets would then be taken to a window manufacturer for standard spacing and
sealing just as if it was any other custom hermetically sealed double pane
window.

One possible problem with this method that I have not researched is building
codes and the maximum size and minimum height off the ground for
non-tempered glass.  Many building codes require any single sheet of glass
over a certain size and/or extending below a certain minimum height above
the ground to be tempered.  I have no idea if glass paint would survive the
tempering process and I sincerely doubt chemical bonding could.  Though I
suppose chemical bonding could be done on already tempered glass (kiln
temperatures for glass paints would remove the tempering of already tempered
glass I would think).  Anyway, this would need to be looked into.

Good luck.  It sounds like you have a really interesting design problem
here.  I will be interested to know what you come up with.

----- Original Message -----
From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: glass bungi line <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!


> <snip>
>
> My partners and I have been approached about constructing a wine-cellar
> door.
>
> <snip>
>
> Any thoughts/help/counseling would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Suzanne
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 13:10:01 2000
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From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bettina Eberle book
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 15:42:32 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does there happen to be anyone on the list who speaks German and/or lives in Germany?

I've identified the German edition (original language) of Bettina Eberle's Glass Fusing book (Faszination Glas, 1997) and am trying to locate someone who can find a copy and see if it has any information about a source for the materials used in the book.

(Long shot, I know, but long shots sometimes come in.)

Brad Walker
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 14:08:24 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Tim & Adriana Atwood <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 21:32:16 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

If you want to paint and temper at the same time there are two kinds of
colour you can use.  In one case you use high temperature curing inks
(750 degrees C) or on-glaze ceramic paints which cure between 720 to 780
degrees C.  Both these are in the tempering heat range.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tim & Adriana Atwood <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
writes
...cut.....
>  I have no idea if glass paint would survive the
>tempering process and I sincerely doubt chemical bonding could.  Though I
>suppose chemical bonding could be done on already tempered glass (kiln
>temperatures for glass paints would remove the tempering of already tempered
>glass I would think).  Anyway, this would need to be looked into.

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 15:47:41 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:03:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all -

I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
I never pay less than $10 hour because I =

sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
with pretty experienced workers with their own
work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
low wages around the country.... would also be
interested in hearing from the international
crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
charge by the job?

Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
this on bungi that I remember......

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 16:09:57 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:25:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Suzanne,

Can't the door just be fitted with an insulated unit,
then the stained glass be retro-fit?  As far as the
stained glass design itself, can you do a straight
border on three sides with the grapevine pattern
contained within?.... then use only one piece of
clear plate as your center piece of glass.  In other
words, build a panel that fits the opening with the
center being clear plate glass.  Maybe just =

"cornerettes" would satisfy the customer, and if
this were my job, I might also suggest sandblast
to the customer.  It's not a huge challenge, though,
because of the environment.... the window won't =

be subjected to a lot of heat or wind sheer, and
the large center piece of plate glass will lend a =

lot of stability to the panel.

Good luck,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 17:32:40 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>, Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 01:01:42 -0000
Message-ID: <200001120104.BAA28815@saturn.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Dani,

In UK we have recently had iontroduced to us the so caslled 
"national minimum wage"; it's about 4 pounds an hour ( x 1.6 = 
USDollars). If I employ a cleaning lady to clean my hiouse, the 
expected rate is UK Sterling 5/hour; a garage mechanic charges 
about UK Sterling 20/hour; a lawyer (out in the sticks) about UK 
Sterling 60/hour. Crafts-people at fairs will find it difficult to sell their 
goods if they price them much above UKSterl.5/hour.
A stained glass charachter called "Paul ....." around Oxford area, 
who has written books, teaches and so on, charges  between 
UKSterling 3000 - 10,000 for his free-standing pieces (Which is 
why they appear at fair after fair after fair....)

So if you go for sub-contracting in USA, I would say that you would 
not expect to get a decent job done, below USD 10 - 15 per hour. 
Pay per piece...hmmmm... don't think so. But I DO believe in 
deducting monies for a shoddily executed piece. And there 
again.... I DO know  YOUR way of showing exactly what you want.
Is this any help????

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

> Hi all -
> 
> I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
> much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
> I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
> 
> sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
> bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
> with pretty experienced workers with their own
> work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
> low wages around the country.... would also be
> interested in hearing from the international
> crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
> charge by the job?
> 
> Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
> this on bungi that I remember......
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 17:38:16 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:16:46 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/11/00 2:32:50 PM, alan@inter-prog.co.uk writes:

>Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?

Yup....... it wuz me what first mentioned it. Here's where I found it:

Treasury of Art Nouveau Design and Ornament
selected by Carol Belanger Grafton
Dover Books ISBN# 0-486-24001-0
Published 1980.

I read somewhere that it was an illustration for a German art journal called 
*Jugend* (the Germans referred to their brand of Art Nouveau as 
"Jugendstil"). The artist's name is Alfred Roller.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 18:07:36 2000
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X-Path: home.com!wwstamps
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:20:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

This is really something I'm interested in..because I do contractual
work for resale much of the time. I am told that $1 per piece of glass
manipulated is "standard" and fair. I don't know. I work for this rate
because I need the work and don't know any better. However, many of the
pieces I do are 3-D, attaching glass to "bodies". Many times I don't
make $10/hour. I will be interested to hear what others pay or charge.
Thanks for bringing it up Dani because I've been thinking about asking.
You did it nicer than I would have!
Sharon
Dani Greer wrote:
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
> much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
> I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
> 
> sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
> bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
> with pretty experienced workers with their own
> work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
> low wages around the country.... would also be
> interested in hearing from the international
> crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
> charge by the job?
> 
> Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
> this on bungi that I remember......
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 19:05:43 2000
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From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 21:54:10 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

We just started selling SG a few months ago and weve been talking to our
friends (2 who've been in the business for 20 yrs or so) 1 says when
pricing a piece - its $3 per piece for a friend & 5 per piece for
strangers.  Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.

We live near NYC.  We've made a few custom pieces 42 pieces 10" x11" and
we charged $180 per suncatcher.  Does that sound correct?

Ali

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 20:34:49 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:05:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001120104.BAA28815@saturn.nildram.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Means I work for dirt! :o)

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Dani,
> 
> In UK we have recently had iontroduced to us the so caslled
> "national minimum wage"; it's about 4 pounds an hour ( x 1.6 =
> USDollars). If I employ a cleaning lady to clean my hiouse, the
> expected rate is UK Sterling 5/hour; a garage mechanic charges
> about UK Sterling 20/hour; a lawyer (out in the sticks) about UK
> Sterling 60/hour. Crafts-people at fairs will find it difficult to sell their
> goods if they price them much above UKSterl.5/hour.
> A stained glass charachter called "Paul ....." around Oxford area,
> who has written books, teaches and so on, charges  between
> UKSterling 3000 - 10,000 for his free-standing pieces (Which is
> why they appear at fair after fair after fair....)
> 
> So if you go for sub-contracting in USA, I would say that you would
> not expect to get a decent job done, below USD 10 - 15 per hour.
> Pay per piece...hmmmm... don't think so. But I DO believe in
> deducting monies for a shoddily executed piece. And there
> again.... I DO know  YOUR way of showing exactly what you want.
> Is this any help????
> 
> Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
> 
> > Hi all -
> >
> > I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
> > much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
> > I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
> >
> > sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
> > bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
> > with pretty experienced workers with their own
> > work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
> > low wages around the country.... would also be
> > interested in hearing from the international
> > crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
> > charge by the job?
> >
> > Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
> > this on bungi that I remember......
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Dani Greer
> > Greer Gallery & Studios
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 03:31:12 2000
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From: "Alan Faiers" <support@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Glass@Bungi.Com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:11:13 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk



>Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?

Yup....... it wuz me what first mentioned it. Here's where I found it:

Treasury of Art Nouveau Design and Ornament
selected by Carol Belanger Grafton
Dover Books ISBN# 0-486-24001-0
Published 1980.

I read somewhere that it was an illustration for a German art journal called
*Jugend* (the Germans referred to their brand of Art Nouveau as
"Jugendstil"). The artist's name is Alfred Roller.


Sparks

My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
evening....
Thanks so much for your help.
Alan


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 04:00:40 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!MATRONA
From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: support@inter-prog.co.uk, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:35:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/12/00 6:31:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
support@inter-prog.co.uk writes:

> 
>  
>  
>  >Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?
>  
>  Yup....... it wuz me what first mentioned it. Here's where I found it:
>  
>  Treasury of Art Nouveau Design and Ornament
>  selected by Carol Belanger Grafton
>  Dover Books ISBN# 0-486-24001-0
>  Published 1980.
>  
>  I read somewhere that it was an illustration for a German art journal 
called
>  *Jugend* (the Germans referred to their brand of Art Nouveau as
>  "Jugendstil"). The artist's name is Alfred Roller.
>  
>  
>  Sparks
>  
>  My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
>  Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
>  It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
>  evening....
>  Thanks so much for your help.
>  Alan
>  
This sounds like quite a project.  I can't imagine.... Will we see the end 
result?
Anne
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 06:02:34 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>, Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA web site back up
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 08:34:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The IGGA web site is back up.  Thank you for your patience
while we dealt with the hacker.  The web site is now on a different
server.  My thanks again to Tim Atwood for the backup, and to
Art On View, our new web site provider.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 06:06:20 2000
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X-Path: pd.jaring.my!shakabe
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Fused glass and bevel work
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:38:49 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BF5D45.69CC8180
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Dear Friends

I am desperately in need of some good sites with fused glass panels. I =
am trying to present some possibilities of huge fused glass panels made =
of clear glass to go as partitions to client and am finding it difficult =
to explain. I have only two days left and  not enough time to make a =
small sample piece.

Same goes to beveled doors and entryways. Clear glass, no color in it.

Anyone know of any site.

Thank you in advance.

Shakeel Abedi


------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BF5D45.69CC8180
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dear Friends</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am desperately in need of some good sites with =
fused glass=20
panels. I am trying to present some possibilities of huge fused glass =
panels=20
made of clear glass to go as partitions to client and am finding it =
difficult to=20
explain. I have only two days left and&nbsp; not enough time to make a =
small=20
sample piece.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Same goes to beveled doors and entryways. Clear =
glass, no=20
color in it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone know of any site.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thank you in advance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Shakeel Abedi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BF5D45.69CC8180--

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 10:09:43 2000
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From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 13:04:03 -0500
Message-ID: <200001121802.NAA03716@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>
Precedence: bulk

on this day you wrote:

>>  My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
>>  Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
>>  It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
>>  evening....
>>  Thanks so much for your help.
>>  Alan

You're starting a class with *Elisabeth* this evening? 
God Bless You my child.
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 11:01:54 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:46:11 PST
Message-ID: <m128SmZ-00005pC@daver.bungi.com>
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Hi everyone,

Just wanted to share some news with you all.
Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
pregnant!
(Now to decide on some names)


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 12:31:36 2000
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From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:21:27 -0500
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CONGRATULATIONS, Glenna!!
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 12:41:32 2000
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X-Path: mailhost.ind.ameritech.net!diamonds2
From: Mary Austin <diamonds2@mailhost.ind.ameritech.net>
To: webmaster@delphiglass.com, artglass@SpectrumGlass.com,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: New address
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:30:23 -0500
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Please start sending to my new email address as I truely miss all that
is going on.

diamonds2@ameritech.net
Mary Austin

Thanks,
Mary
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:01:27 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:33:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Dani,
        I work in a collaborative studio where a number of people carry
out their own business.  We band together to do some jobs and hire one
another to help with jobs.
        The rate applicable is related to the work to be done.  Simple
assembly and finishing tasks are generally paid out at 5 pounds per hour
(national minimum wage is 3.60).,  For more sophisticated work
designing, cutting, painting etc. is usually paid on a price for the
work concerned.  E.g. I would expect to pay our most experienced painter
about £300 for a couple of square feet of painted glass (if figure work
is concerned that would be doubled).  Designing and cutting are usually
paid in relation to the value (and expected profit margin) on the main
job.  If I am supplying the materials (usually), and the sub-contracted
person is doing the whole job, I subtract 20% from the whole job and
deduct the materials costs, and offer almost all of the remainder to the
sub-contractor.  Sometimes, they don't take me up on the offer, but
mostly they do.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
writes
>Hi all -
>
>I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
>much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
>I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
>
>sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
>bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
>with pretty experienced workers with their own
>work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
>low wages around the country.... would also be
>interested in hearing from the international
>crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
>charge by the job?
>
>Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
>this on bungi that I remember......
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:15:09 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: alipea <alipearson@webtv.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:49:09 -0500
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Message text written by alipea
>Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.<

I'd say this is closer to a price that will keep you
in business.... and think about this concept of
charging friends and family less.... why?  Does
your friend, the dentist, charge you less?  The
plumber friend?  Discounting their fees as much
as you are??  Almost 40%??  If it makes you feel
good to do this with friends and family, I would =

say 20% is adequate at the most.  Trust me, it
will keep you from feeling too much resentment
when even your dearest friends take advantage
or don't appreciate you as much as you'd like.....
trust me on this one.

Best,

Dani (who would have been out of business years
ago if she depended on her family for income...)
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:25:32 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: alipea <alipearson@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:40:21 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

But, Ali,  how much would you pay someone else to do it for you?
Would you pay 180 dollars to someone to make a 42 piece suncatcher?  or
less?  how much less?
        This is not pricing but paying others to do the work.  I find
(even) I am not willing always to pay others what I would like to be
paid.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, alipea <alipearson@webtv.net> writes
>We just started selling SG a few months ago and weve been talking to our
>friends (2 who've been in the business for 20 yrs or so) 1 says when
>pricing a piece - its $3 per piece for a friend & 5 per piece for
>strangers.  Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
>strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.
>
>We live near NYC.  We've made a few custom pieces 42 pieces 10" x11" and
>we charged $180 per suncatcher.  Does that sound correct?
>
>Ali
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:39:01 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 16:06:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by Glenna Rand
>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
pregnant!
(Now to decide on some names)

<
Congratulations!!  Now, before things get too =

out-of-hand, none of the names you all came up
with for little Meric can be re-cycled, understand???

I think one of my favorite Hawaiian names for a =

little girl is "Malia".  Will you add that to the list of
possibilities?

Now be careful with that glass work, Glenna!
Take some extra precautions.... =


Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:56:26 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 16:06:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by Steve Richard
>E.g. I would expect to pay our most experienced painter
about =A3300 for a couple of square feet of painted glass (if figure work=

is concerned that would be doubled).<

When we were doing glass painting for other studios,
we started at $200 s.f. for simple painting, $250 and
up for painting with multi-firings.  And, as you say, figure
work is substantially more.  (Though, for me, detailed
architectural elements are more difficult really.)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 14:38:18 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Dani Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 17:17:13 -0500
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I trust you are correct, Dani.  Thanks for giving others your good
advice.

Tom

From: "Dani Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>

: Message text written by alipea
: >Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
: strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.<
:
:.................................snipped..............................
: say 20% is adequate at the most.  Trust me, it
: will keep you from feeling too much resentment
: when even your dearest friends take advantage
: or don't appreciate you as much as you'd like.....
: trust me on this one.
:
: Best,
:
: Dani (who would have been out of business years
: ago if she depended on her family for income...)


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 14:50:40 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 17:20:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Congratulations, Glenna!

Tom in NC
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>

: Hi everyone,
: 
: Just wanted to share some news with you all.
: Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
: pregnant!
: (Now to decide on some names)
: -- 
: Glenna Rand
: gjr@bungi.com


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 15:37:33 2000
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From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: glass mailing list <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: A restoration question
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:57:45 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I just signed up to the list and think its great...here goes my first
question:
I'm working on restoring a window made by an English studio, maybe
Powell, but I'm not sure. I have a feeling that the window could be
dated from the 1870-1900. The window is made up of 5 sections, each 53
inches by 56 inches. These are very large windows and because of the
inadequate support system they were badly damaged. The windows are made
of a tessellation of three different small shapes of glass, I have a
math problem available for those that would like to figure out the
tessellation. The shapes of glass have a low relief on them and are
painted in the relief. it appears that the  paint was over fired on
nearly all of the pieces. they were also silver stained to a lower
temperature on the smooth side of the glass. At first i believed that
the glass was cast into metal molds, there are hundreds of pieces per
panels. I tried to reproduce them by casting precut shapes into a
plaster mold. I fired kokomo (closest color match)  to 1500 F and at a
rate of 100 degrees per hour and soaked for and hour. I was unable to
get the fine detail of the original pieces. I have to replace about
thirty of the thousands of pieces. I was thinking that if i cast them
with frit i might do better, but can anyone provide some professional
hints such as how to measure displacement and some example firing
seclude with frits, i was also wondering if anyone had experimented with
a casting flux, even ceramic grade frits used to flux low fire glazes.
In the discussion of how the pieces were originally made, the
possibility of the glass being "stamped" as it came directly from a
crucible was mentioned, however i would be unable to reproduce them in
this manor. Any hints would be greatly aprecieated.
Thanks,
Tony

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 17:24:46 2000
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X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>, suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 01:02:06 -0000
Message-ID: <200001130108.e0D18eo29851@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Huh..? Who? What...?

Alan has "survived" another evening in my tender mercies and has 
been returned home in ONE piece, I'll have you know, my dear 
Suzanne A. Other than that, glad to see that you're in fine fettle! 
Have been missing your banter for a long time,.... but then I 
suppose we have both been snowed under with this and that.
The Lovers Beneath a Waterfall design is actually quite an exciting 
design, but needs tidying up for s.g. purposes. I might actually use 
elements of it myself. Thank you Sparks for that! I have a 
commission for 7 panels of "Sea Scape" but didn't fancy putting 
shrimps all over it....

As regards photos, well... all my students (especially in At Home 
Studio) get subjected to the camera.... so yes I guess so. But I'll 
let Alan talk for himself.

Take care now.

Elisabeth 'n Toby (guarding 16 kgs worth of fluffy Meric Monterey!!) 
in UK


> on this day you wrote:
> 
> >>  My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
> >>  Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
> >>  It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
> >>  evening....
> >>  Thanks so much for your help.
> >>  Alan
> 
To which Suzanne Albright replied:
> You're starting a class with *Elisabeth* this evening? 
> God Bless You my child.

----
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North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 17:33:14 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: A restoration question
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:18:08 -0500
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Message text written by Tony Dutcher
>The shapes of glass have a low relief on them and are
painted in the relief.<

Are these a definite pattern?  Or just a texture
in the glass?  If a definite pattern, they may well
have been done using a deep acid etch... you
might want to experiment with that.... Steve
Richard could give you some good pointers in
that direction.  He's a fellow bungian.  Tell us =

more as things develop!

P.S. We've never had much luck with frit and
probably wouldn't waste the time.... others might
disagree with me.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/             I presume the IGGA site is back!
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 19:57:03 2000
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From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: WarmGlass dot com
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:29:19 -0500 (EST)
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For anyone who's interested in fusing information, I have relocated my web site to www.warmglass.com
 
I've also made a few improvements to the site, including:
 
--  added information on glass polishing and finishing
--  added glass coaster project as first fusing project
--  added some info on cutting out glass circles
--  added additional links in Resources section
 
Next step is to finish up some of the info in the advanced section (glass painted, for example) and to add more pictures.  Along those lines, if anyone has a small kiln (Quickfire 6 or similar) and can create a digital photo for me to have on the site, I'd be grateful.  Also still looking for photos of industrial glass equipment of any type.
 
I'm also working on the Gallery of warm glass items
 
Thanks to those of you who commented on the site.
 
And a special thanks to Intrastellar for agreeing to host the site.
 
Brad Walker
For information about warm glass techniques and processes such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com

______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 20:01:24 2000
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 11:26:16 +0800
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Congratulations Glenna
Best wishes from Malaysia.

Shakeel Abedi


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just wanted to share some news with you all.
> Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
> pregnant!
> (Now to decide on some names)
> 
> 
> -- 
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 20:19:04 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Sea Scape was;Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:22:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001130108.e0D18eo29851@mercury.nildram.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk


----- Original Message -----  I have a
> commission for 7 panels of "Sea Scape" but didn't fancy putting
> shrimps all over it....
>

Oh, yuck, add a couple of scallops, at least!  (Unless you plan on doing the
shrimp in puce, of course.)

Actually saw a story on jellyfish on the news tonight.  You know, the colors
of jellyfish are lovely and would translate well to glass, but I don't know
anyone who likes jellyfish enough to actually BUY a glass jellyfish, but you
could sneak in a couple in 7 panels.

Hmm, I have to come up with some fresh 1 foot square designs.  Maybe a coral
reef....  It's off to my Jacques Cousteau books for inspiration.

Dorothy


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 21:02:42 2000
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X-Path: pd.jaring.my!shakabe
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, <MATRONA@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Fused glass and bevel work
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 11:16:15 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<e.22ea09.25ae819b@aol.com>>
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Yes   

Pictures. Know of any site?

Shakeel

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MATRONA@aol.com>
To: <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: Fused glass and bevel work


> In a message dated 1/12/00 9:08:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> shakabe@pd.jaring.my writes:
> 
> > 
> >  Same goes to beveled doors and entryways. Clear glass, no color in it.
> >  
> >  Anyone know of any site.
> >  
> >  Thank you in advance.
> >  
> >  Shakeel Abedi
> what do you nee?  Apicture?
> 

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 23:03:38 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Tony Dutcher" <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: A restoration question
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:49:52 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>>I tried to reproduce them by casting precut shapes into a
>>plaster mold.

Plaster is a one time use mold material that often yields indifferent
results. Try Mold Mix 6 or other mold material made for glass casting.

>>I fired kokomo (closest color match)  to 1500 F and at a
>>rate of 100 degrees per hour and soaked for and hour. I was unable to
>>get the fine detail of the original pieces.

You can go much faster with small pieces of glass like you are firing.
Kokomo readily devitrifies and so slow rates of advance are not good. It is
best to use a good anti devitrification product like Spray A. 1500'F even
without a soak should have yielded fine detail. Did your mold truly have the
fine detail to begin with?

 >>I have to replace about
>>thirty of the thousands of pieces. I was thinking that if i cast them
>>with frit i might do better, but can anyone provide some professional
>>hints such as how to measure displacement and some example firing
>>seclude with frits, i was also wondering if anyone had experimented with
>>a casting flux, even ceramic grade frits used to flux low fire glazes.

Frit glass is likely to show the individual pieces of glass as opposed to
the clarity of poured glass. I would continue to try with sheet glass. You
can fire frit as fast as your kiln will go.

The displacement thing is easy. Simply submerge an existing tile in a
container of water and note the increase in water level. Using the same
amount of start water load glass to be fused until the previously
established level is reached. Measurement by accurate weight would work well
also.

Spray A is not only a good anti devitrification product but acts as a flux
due to the low melting glass component.

Bob in 92026

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 01:04:06 2000
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From: "Alan" <alan@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Glass@Bungi.Com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Meeting Meric - was Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 08:41:17 -0000
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I had the privilege last evening of meeting 'little' Meric. As you might
expect, he shares a number of his owner's characteristics...
He's a real sweetie - very friendly, inquisitive, always ready for a cuddle,
and has an endearing habit of gently nibbling your chin (is that a Swedish
thing, or something she picked up in California?).
Alan



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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 05:55:53 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 08:36:01 EST
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In a message dated 1/12/00 4:39:33 PM, GreerStudios@compuserve.com writes:

>Message text written by Glenna Rand
>
>>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
>>Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
>>pregnant!
>>(Now to decide on some names)
>
>Congratulations!!  Now, before things get too
>out-of-hand, none of the names you all came up
>with for little Meric can be re-cycled, understand???

<LOL> The first thing that crossed my mind was YIKES! Don't even mention the 
subject of names in the presence of this crowd - people will be coming up 
with ideas that make "Moon Unit" and "Dweezil" sound positively preppy!

But seriously....... Congrats to Glenna & Dave!


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 06:59:36 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: art or craft ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 14:38:07 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken work
into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to
pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner. is
this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
Charlie


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 07:43:24 2000
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From: Russ Taddiken <taddiken@detroit.sgi.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:15:14 -0500
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Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/12/00 4:39:33 PM, GreerStudios@compuserve.com writes:
>
> >Message text written by Glenna Rand
> >
> >>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
> >>Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
> >>pregnant!
> >>(Now to decide on some names)
> >
> >Congratulations!!  Now, before things get too
> >out-of-hand, none of the names you all came up
> >with for little Meric can be re-cycled, understand???
>
> <LOL> The first thing that crossed my mind was YIKES! Don't even mention the
> subject of names in the presence of this crowd - people will be coming up
> with ideas that make "Moon Unit" and "Dweezil" sound positively preppy!
>
> But seriously....... Congrats to Glenna & Dave!
>
> Sparks
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Just to start things off:

Kalila = flower in swahili
(always loved that name and the 2nd daughter would have had it if we did not
have cali (calico) the cat)

Congrats Glenna ! and Dave Too!

Hope You get as much joy as we have from this

Russ

--
Russ Taddiken
taddiken@detroit.sgi.com

"It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought
without accepting it."  -- Aristotle



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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 11:16:34 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE  re art or craft
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 18:53:38 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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A complex question! Stained glass is a traditional craft therefore I am a
craftsman. Then again I create a unique piece of work using glass as my
medium.
If  I make a scenic piece, hand picking all my glass for maximum effect then
what difference is there between me and a landscape artist. My point is that
glass-work is not given the credit it deserves.
As a part time tutor I find that most people can master the craft, but I
find that only a few can produce a good, original design. The standard of
the finish is good but the piece lacks impact, but give them a pattern from
a book and you get a very high quality piece of work.
as I write this I am looking around at some of my work and most of it is
nothing special. In 8 years maybe there's only 10 pieces that I feel really
proud of. then again its the "nothing specials" that pay for the good work.
all the best           Charlie






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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 12:04:25 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: art or craft ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 14:50:38 -0500
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Message text written by "charlie"
>I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken wo=
rk
into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to=

pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner.=

is
this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
Charlie

I'm always in hysterics when folks come into our
shop and look through the portfolios.... in total awe.
And then we get comments like, "Wow, this is like
real art!!" =


Well, yes, we try our best.... <sigh>  ROFLO!!!!

Cheers,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/  =

<

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 12:17:58 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Subject: Re: A restoration question
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:47:51 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Tony,
These pieces might be of Norman slab.  Or they might be pressed jewels
which Powell & Co invented in the 19th century.  What makes you feel
they are overfired?  If the panels are really by Powell & Co
(Whitefriars Studio) I don't think it likely they were over fired.  It
is possible you have a problem with too much borax flux in the painting.
(If so the paint will have to be stabilised, as it is water soluble with
an excess of borax).  This silver stain was not necessarily fired at a
lower temperature, as there were then and are now silver stains that
fire at tracing paint temperatures.

This is a case where a picture or three would be worth a great deal. I'm
not sure what we really are talking about.

The pressed jewels were made from molten glass "dripped" into a mould,
then turned out to anneal in a lehr.  You could have a hot glass worker
reproduce these from a cast of the glass, if necessary.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
writes
>I just signed up to the list and think its great...here goes my first
>question:
>I'm working on restoring a window made by an English studio, maybe
>Powell, but I'm not sure. I have a feeling that the window could be
>dated from the 1870-1900. The window is made up of 5 sections, each 53
>inches by 56 inches. These are very large windows and because of the
>inadequate support system they were badly damaged. The windows are made
>of a tessellation of three different small shapes of glass, I have a
>math problem available for those that would like to figure out the
>tessellation. The shapes of glass have a low relief on them and are
>painted in the relief. it appears that the  paint was over fired on
>nearly all of the pieces. they were also silver stained to a lower
>temperature on the smooth side of the glass. At first i believed that
>the glass was cast into metal molds, there are hundreds of pieces per
>panels. I tried to reproduce them by casting precut shapes into a
>plaster mold. I fired kokomo (closest color match)  to 1500 F and at a
>rate of 100 degrees per hour and soaked for and hour. I was unable to
>get the fine detail of the original pieces. I have to replace about
>thirty of the thousands of pieces. I was thinking that if i cast them
>with frit i might do better, but can anyone provide some professional
>hints such as how to measure displacement and some example firing
>seclude with frits, i was also wondering if anyone had experimented with
>a casting flux, even ceramic grade frits used to flux low fire glazes.
>In the discussion of how the pieces were originally made, the
>possibility of the glass being "stamped" as it came directly from a
>crucible was mentioned, however i would be unable to reproduce them in
>this manor. Any hints would be greatly aprecieated.
>Thanks,
>Tony
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 12:54:31 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE  re art or craft
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:33:45 -0500
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Message text written by "charlie"
>My point is that
glass-work is not given the credit it deserves.<

I do think it depends on the kind of glasswork....
for example, we utilize glass painting which =

immediately pushes the work into the fine art
realm... at least in the minds of the public.  And,
I still stand by my assertion that much old and
new fine craft demonstrates greater ability and
knowledge than a good deal of contemporary
fine art!  And this from a contemporary painter!!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 13:24:41 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: charlie <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 20:35:55 +0000
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I would say it is not an isolated event, but one which is related to how
we view, and consequently present, ourselves. 
We are crafts people when we produce multiples of a work, when we mainly
produce material for domestic situations which are not challenging to
the customer or ourselves.
We are artists when we are trying to present a challenge to the
perceptions of the viewer.  
Galleries respond to the artist's statement kind of hype for various
projects.  Things which attempt to extend a medium, challenge a view
point.  Basically, things which are difficult to understand.  Then we
are artists.  And we should charge as such when we go to galleries,
they, after all take most of the money on the sale.
Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, charlie <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.jungleli
nk.co.uk> writes
>I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken work
>into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to
>pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
>inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner. is
>this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
>Charlie
>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 14:28:38 2000
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Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 17:02:32 EST
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Congrats, Glenna, lucky you.
Luanne
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 18:37:12 2000
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From: "Michele S" <mrsdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: gjr@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 16:01:26 EST
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Dear Glenna,
Congratulations to you!  I wish you all the best.  I also wish that Hawaii 
agrees with me in a different way, as I'm checking my mail at a friend's 
here in Pearl Harbor as I write!
Aloha~  Michele


>From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Non-Glass Related
>Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:46:11 PST
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
>Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
>pregnant!
>(Now to decide on some names)
>
>
>--
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
>----
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______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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In a message dated 1/13/00 10:44:06 AM, taddiken@detroit.sgi.com writes:

>Congrats Glenna ! and Dave Too!

Wow - somebody besides me has finally remembered "daddy-to-be" too. It 
generally does take two, you know...... otherwise any discussion of names 
immediately becomes moot - we'll just have to call the baby "Jesus"!

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program already in progress.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 07:03:00 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Hot Glass Horizons 20000 Press Release
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 09:51:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi gang.  Here's another press release for some exciting spring glass cla=
sses!

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	INTERNET:GlasWiz@aol.com, INTERNET:GlasWiz@aol.com
Date:	01/12/2000  3:36 PM
 =

PRESS RELEASE - FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

This springs Hot Glass Horizons 2000 Corning will be held at the Radisson=
 =

Hotel in Corning New York,  May 4,5 & 6, 2000. Students pick any three of=
 the =

following classes being offered:
GIL REYNOLDS - "Thermal Formed GlassTM"
VICKI DAY  - "Fusing Foundations"   // "Going Deep"
DEBRA VAN TOL - "Building Clay Molds"  // "Drop Rings and Slumping" =

NEWY FAGAN - "Screen Printing on Glass"  // "Exploratory Kiln Techniques"=

JAYNE PERSICO - "Kiln Formed Bracelets" =

PHIL TEEFY - "Advanced Kiln Forms" // "Pate-de-Verre / Lost Wax" // =

"Marketing Art Glass"
LOREN STUMP - "Advanced Moretti Techniques" =

TIM BROWN - "Jewelry, Marbles and Torch Tricks" // "Hot Parts and Pattern=
 =

Bars"
SHIRLEY WEBSTER  - "Dichrioc Glass:  Jewelry Techniques" // "Dichroic FX"=
 // =

"Advanced Fusing with Dichroic Glass" =

TIM DORLAND - "Glasscapes " =

BORIS CHASIN - "Architectural Glass Tiles"
BLAKE RAMSEY  - "Fusing with 'Free' Glass"
REBECCA BROWN -  "Venetian Millefiori Designs" =

For information and registration Contact Hot Glass Horizons -15500 NE. =

Kincaid Rd. Newberg, OR 97132
 Tel 503-538-5281  Fax  503-538- 6527       Email glaswiz@teleport.com   =

 WEB  http://www.teleport.com/~glaswiz =

 Sponsored by Evenheat Kiln, Fuse Master, Glass Art Magazine

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Gil Reynolds will be conducting two seminars for the ASGA show in Chicago=
, =

IL. July 26th & 27th. The first " Addressing the Fusing Market"  includes=
 a =

survey of production options and market strategies designed to help you a=
lign =

yourself for success in today's market place. The second class" "Dimensio=
n =

Direction" is a techniques seminar that will cover advance kiln concepts =
and =

process that result in durable dimensional products. Don't miss this =

opportunity to study with a true industry leader. For Registration and =

information contact ASGA1100-H Brandywine Boulevard, PO Box 3388, Zanesvi=
lle, =

OH 43702-3388, Tel 1.888.866.2472, Fax 740.452.2552=
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 07:34:21 2000
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Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 10:00:36 -0600
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Organization: stainedglassdesign.com
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 10:33:08 2000
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From: Romajoco@aol.com
To: glass@intrastar.net, Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 13:23:40 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Got a lot of glass (a whole lot) for use with mosaics....I have seen the 
"wooden window boxes" in the stained glass catalogs.  If putting a mosaic 
design on them would you need to seal the wood first with something. 

Also would you need to seal the clay flower pots also before starting mosaic 
work.

I would like to do some of both but do not want the glass to fall off at a 
later date if I did not seal them.

Thanks in advance,

Margie
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 11:31:51 2000
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Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 14:07:20 EST
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Hi Margi, Suzanne in Tulsa works with mosaics....maybe she can let you 
know...Abbie in VA
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 11:32:34 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: <glass@intrastar.net>,
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:31:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I had the same question on the wood--I think I would definitely seal the
wood first. I'm going to make a round mosaic table cover for our deck table,
and I will buy outdoor treated wood (if I can) and then seal it before
putting the mosaic on.

Good question on the flower pots. I've made 3 of 'em and haven't even
thought to seal them. But now that I think about it, probably not a bad
idea. I'm using mine, but have put the plants in their original plastic pot
down inside the terracotta pot, so no moisture problems there. If you plan
to plant right in the pot, I'd seal them. And I did put grout sealer on the
pots after I was done--I figured at the very least it would help keep the
grout clean.

Shari in SLC



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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 13:03:47 2000
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From: Bethanie Brown <bethanie@domesticity.net>
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Subject: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:50:11 -0400
Message-ID: <l03130300b4a539d2988f@[192.168.0.32]>
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Hey there.

I'm assistant-teaching a Beginner's Stained Glass class for the first time,
and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, published by
Crystal Images Publications, 1990 OR 2) find alternative beginner's texts
and get copyright permissions from them.

Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number given in
the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company. They're
supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far. We like
this particular book because it shows very clearly how to hold the tools,
position your hands on the glass for breaking a score, etc.

So if you can offer any leads on how to find the publishers or author of
this book, or have other suggestions for your favorite books (or
websites!)that might be comparable, please let me know! Thanks!


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 14:03:32 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 14:30:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<387F8C84.5339E43A@home.com>>
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> I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics then
> silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC
>

Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to leave
the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board by
sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly more
"finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on the
finished look you are after.
Shari



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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 14:11:03 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 15:09:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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aarrrggghhh...for a minute there I was hot on the trail...

I called our local glass retailer in Salt Lake City to see if he knew Alicia
and/or the publisher. Yes, he knew Alicia. She used to live in Park City and
Crystal Images was her trade name. (Sounds like she probably "self
published" the book.)

Unfortunately, he believes she got married and moved to Florida. No one in
the store knows for certain or knows what her married name is. But she
probably held on to the trade name in Florida.

Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?

Shari in SLC


> and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
> from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, published by
> Crystal Images Publications, 1990 OR 2) find alternative beginner's texts
> and get copyright permissions from them.
>
> Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number given in
> the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
> searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company. They're
> supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 14:45:18 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:32:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Try the Thomas Registry, I believe that is what it's called.  You will
have to 'join', but it's free, to do a search.  This could also be
called the 'Thomas Register'.  This source is usually in public
libraries and lists companies that do business in the US and the world
as well.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners


...........
: Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?
:
: Shari in SLC

: > Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number
given in
: > the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
: > searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company.
They're
: > supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 15:04:32 2000
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From: Larry & Chris Snyder <lcans@tctwest.net>
To: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
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Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 15:42:06 -0700
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Shari,
Just a thought, try the supply houses in FL.  i.e. Delphi, Glass
Crafters, etc.  Just a long shot.  Chris
-- 
2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
unproductive 
Cns in WY
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 15:19:18 2000
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From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 18:10:41 -0500
Message-ID: <200001142308.SAA15659@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>
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I always liked the "Introduction to Stained Glass," by Randy Wardell.
It's clear, concise, has lots of pictures! And some simple beginner 
patterns.
Suzanne
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 15:23:21 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Treated wood, Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:50:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

For safety's sake and your health, try not to sand 'treated' wood.  You
should also be very careful about breathing even the minute sawdust when
sawing 'treated' wood.

I don't understand the reasoning behind why anyone thinks it would be
necessary to seal, paint, etc., treated wood.  The 'treated' wood is
pressure treated with chemicals to a uniform depth to be bug resistant
for many years.  This type of wood is also used in the making of fence
posts, rails and other things that will be in touch with 'wet earth',
damp concrete, etc.

Working with 'treated' wood can be hazardous to your health.  Be sure
also not to burn 'treated' wood as the smoke is poisonous, and wash your
hands thoroughly, too.

Tom


: > I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics
then
: > silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC

: Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to
leave
: the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board
by
: sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly
more
: "finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on
the
: finished look you are after.
: Shari


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 16:34:02 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>, John Emery <preston@iu.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:23:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The best beginner's book available is the
one written by Randy Wardell... which is
also now available in Spanish and French.
It offers, overall, the most accurate information
and covers both copper foil and lead work.
The "Secrets" books have some flat-out
incorrect information....  for example, you should
not be using plaster of Paris in your cement =

formulae according to conservators... this has
been discussed at some length here on bungi
over the years and more information is available
in the archives.  =


As a professional studio artist who teaches at =

the college level, the only beginner book I would
recommend is the Wardell book.  It's also very
reasonably priced.  No, I don't own stock with =

them. ;-D

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/   =

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:03:04 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!nbg3755
From: nbg3755@juno.com
To: glass@intrastar.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:34:51 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I did a couple of flower pots last spring without sealing the terracotta
before applying the glass design, but I did paint them first with
exterior house paint with a bit of sand mixed in for texture.  I kept a
couple and planted them.  They've lasted just fine treated this way, but
I'm in Florida so the lowest temp they've been exposed to is perhaps 27
degrees F.

What a lot of work that project was, though!  I painted the pots with
exterior house paint, then glued the glass design on with liquid nails,
then grouted around  the glass (tinted to match the background paint). 
Much more trouble than it was worth (but they looked great)--just too
expensive to make to sell.

Nancy G in FL
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:18:47 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: GreerStudios@compuserve.com, glass@bungi.com, preston@iu.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:58:08 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You know there's another good book.  really inexpensive, which is actually a 
two book set called the stained glass primer.  Good information, not geared 
to the hobbiest.  Inother words, it doesn't cutsee up stained glass for the 
sake of enticing people who have nobusiness making glass in the first place.
Anne
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:22:57 2000
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From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:41:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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>>I'm assistant-teaching a Beginner's Stained Glass class for the first
time,
and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, <<snip>><<

In fairness to the author, why not just purchase books for each of the
students like any other text book. Getting free permission to reproduce the
book leaves the author and publisher unrewarded for their labors.

Bob in 92026

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:33:07 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: New *real* job
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:06:32 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have a new *real* job.  It's at someone elses glass studio.
I just finished my first week, and Im so happy it's Friday!
:o)

A lot of large panels...a lot of hard work.  Im learning lots, and will
be so glad when I feel competent.  Im pretty impressed with the skill of
the others in the studio and very pleased they have been super helpful,
and very gracious and patient with me. :o)  My lead work is improving
daily...(thank God)

Suzanne in Tulsa
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:35:34 2000
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_37.647188.25b1231a_boundary"
Subject: Fwd: I Don't Understand!   Many of you will identify with some of
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:10:50 EST
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 It is hard to understand how a cemetery raised its burial cost
 and blamed it on the cost of living.
 
 Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off.

 We are born naked, wet, and hungry.  Then things get worse.
 The 50-50-90 rule:  Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting
 something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
 It is said that if you line up all the cars in the world end to end, someone 
would be stupid enough to try and pass them.
 Laughing stock - cattle with a sense of humor.
 You can't have everything, where would you put it?
 Latest survey shows that 3 out of 4 people make up 75% of the
 world's population.
 If the shoe fits, get another one just like it.
 Eat right.  Stay fit.  Die anyway.
 
 The things that come to those that wait may be the things left by 
 those who got there first.
 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.

 Flashlight:  A case for holding dead batteries.

 Shin:  A device for finding furniture in the dark.

 As long as there are tests, there will be prayer in public schools.
 
 When you're swimming in the creek, and an eel bites your cheek,
 that's a moray!
 
 A fine is a tax for doing wrong.  A tax is a fine for doing well.
 
 It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats. 
The only cure for insomnia is to get more sleep.
 Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens.
I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few. I started out with 
nothing, and I still have most of it. 
 When you go into court you are putting yourself in the hands of
 12 people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty.
 
Light travels faster than sound.
 This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
  


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From: Bleubrd3@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 18:12:49 EST
Subject: Fwd: I Don't Understand!
To: Bungyman7@aol.com, MATRONA@aol.com, Buckwet250@aol.com,
	DBNASH416@aol.com, erzebeterzebet@yahoo.com, jdarmstr@earthlink.net,
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 > > > 
 > > > It is hard to understand how a cemetery raised its burial cost
 > > > and blamed it on the cost of living.
 > > > 
 > > > Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off.
 > > > 
 > > > We are born naked, wet, and hungry.  Then things get worse.
 > > > 
 > > > The 50-50-90 rule:  Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting
 > > > something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
 > > > 
 > > > It is said that if you line up all the cars in the world end to end,
 > > > someone would be stupid enough to try and pass them.
 > > > 
 > > > Laughing stock - cattle with a sense of humor.
 > > > 
 > > > You can't have everything, where would you put it?
 > > > 
 > > > Latest survey shows that 3 out of 4 people make up 75% of the
 > > > world's population.
 > > > 
 > > > If the shoe fits, get another one just like it.
 > > > 
 > > > Eat right.  Stay fit.  Die anyway.
 > > > 
 > > > The things that come to those that wait may be the things left by 
 > > > those who got there first.
 > > > 
 > > > Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
 > > > Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.
 > > > 
 > > > Flashlight:  A case for holding dead batteries.
 > > > 
 > > > Shin:  A device for finding furniture in the dark.
 > > > 
 > > > As long as there are tests, there will be prayer in public schools.
 > > > 
 > > > When you're swimming in the creek, and an eel bites your cheek,
 > > > that's a moray!
 > > > 
 > > > A fine is a tax for doing wrong.  A tax is a fine for doing well.
 > > > 
 > > > It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats.
 > > > 
 > > > The only cure for insomnia is to get more sleep.
 > > > 
 > > > Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens.
 > > > 
 > > > I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few.
 > > > 
 > > > I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it.
 > > > 
 > > > When you go into court you are putting yourself in the hands of
 > > > 12 people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty.
 > > > 
 > > > Light travels faster than sound.
 > > > This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
 > > > 

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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 20:23:51 EST
Subject: Fwd: I Don't Understand!
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Subject: I Don't Understand!
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 19:42:34 -0500
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> > > 
> > > It is hard to understand how a cemetery raised its burial cost
> > > and blamed it on the cost of living.
> > > 
> > > Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off.
> > > 
> > > We are born naked, wet, and hungry.  Then things get worse.
> > > 
> > > The 50-50-90 rule:  Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting
> > > something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
> > > 
> > > It is said that if you line up all the cars in the world end to end,
> > > someone would be stupid enough to try and pass them.
> > > 
> > > Laughing stock - cattle with a sense of humor.
> > > 
> > > You can't have everything, where would you put it?
> > > 
> > > Latest survey shows that 3 out of 4 people make up 75% of the
> > > world's population.
> > > 
> > > If the shoe fits, get another one just like it.
> > > 
> > > Eat right.  Stay fit.  Die anyway.
> > > 
> > > The things that come to those that wait may be the things left by 
> > > those who got there first.
> > > 
> > > Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
> > > Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.
> > > 
> > > Flashlight:  A case for holding dead batteries.
> > > 
> > > Shin:  A device for finding furniture in the dark.
> > > 
> > > As long as there are tests, there will be prayer in public schools.
> > > 
> > > When you're swimming in the creek, and an eel bites your cheek,
> > > that's a moray!
> > > 
> > > A fine is a tax for doing wrong.  A tax is a fine for doing well.
> > > 
> > > It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats.
> > > 
> > > The only cure for insomnia is to get more sleep.
> > > 
> > > Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens.
> > > 
> > > I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few.
> > > 
> > > I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it.
> > > 
> > > When you go into court you are putting yourself in the hands of
> > > 12 people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty.
> > > 
> > > Light travels faster than sound.
> > > This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
> > > 


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--part2_37.647188.25b10771_boundary--

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:48:49 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: MATRONA@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:31:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

It's what I started with in 1982. :o)
I've lost one of them over the years.  Ive looked everywhere.

Suzanne

MATRONA@aol.com wrote:
> 
> You know there's another good book.  really inexpensive, which is actually a
> two book set called the stained glass primer.  Good information, not geared
> to the hobbiest.  Inother words, it doesn't cutsee up stained glass for the
> sake of enticing people who have nobusiness making glass in the first place.
> Anne
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 18:01:01 2000
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From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Treated wood, Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:41:03 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I think probably marine grade plywood is what the maker should be looking
for, rather than treated wood.  It's made with special water-resistant glues
so a round cut from it should avoid warping when exposed to the elements.  I
think the pressure treated stuff is more normally dimensional lumber for
porches, stairs, etc.


Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom <thomm@vnet.net>
To: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: Treated wood, Mosaic question


> For safety's sake and your health, try not to sand 'treated' wood.  You
> should also be very careful about breathing even the minute sawdust when
> sawing 'treated' wood.
>
> I don't understand the reasoning behind why anyone thinks it would be
> necessary to seal, paint, etc., treated wood.  The 'treated' wood is
> pressure treated with chemicals to a uniform depth to be bug resistant
> for many years.  This type of wood is also used in the making of fence
> posts, rails and other things that will be in touch with 'wet earth',
> damp concrete, etc.
>
> Working with 'treated' wood can be hazardous to your health.  Be sure
> also not to burn 'treated' wood as the smoke is poisonous, and wash your
> hands thoroughly, too.
>
> Tom
>
>
> : > I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics
> then
> : > silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC
>
> : Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to
> leave
> : the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board
> by
> : sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly
> more
> : "finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on
> the
> : finished look you are after.
> : Shari
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 18:02:58 2000
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From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:48:04 EST
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I like the Wardell book too but came across a book Iin the library called 
Stained Glass Basics by Chris Rich with Martha Mitchell and Rachel Ward 
published by Sterling Publishing Co. ISBN 0-8069-4877-9. I found a used copy 
on-line but the cover price is only $14.95.  Aside from good basic 
instruction it has a nice selection of patterns for beginners that, while 
simple, show use of color, texture and shading.  Each project has a page of 
tips and the color photos are inspiring.  Projects include small and large 
panels, simple lamps, candle holders,  boxes, even a kalaidescope.
It has both copper foil and lead techniques but I don't work in lead so can't 
vouch for the accuracy of the instruction but the copper foil instruction 
seems thorough with lots of pictures. 

I deal with Sterling Publishing at work and their toll-free # is 
800-359-1680.  I don't know what their minimum purchase is or what their 
discount schedule might be.

Brenda Marhon
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 20:49:38 2000
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X-Path: soltec.net!tamis
From: "Tami Siddens" <tamis@soltec.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: New *real* job
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 22:41:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Suzanne - congratulations!  Sounds like it might be a good fit for you long
and short term.  Tami

Tami Siddens
Envision Success
Professional Coaching/Consulting Services
Member International Coach Federation
tamis@soltec.net

Attract an extraordinary life!

"Just don't give up trying to do what you really want to do. Where there is
love and inspiration, I don't think you can go wrong." - Ella Fitzgerald





-----Original Message-----
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: New *real* job


>I have a new *real* job.  It's at someone elses glass studio.
>I just finished my first week, and Im so happy it's Friday!
>:o)
>
>A lot of large panels...a lot of hard work.  Im learning lots, and will
>be so glad when I feel competent.  Im pretty impressed with the skill of
>the others in the studio and very pleased they have been super helpful,
>and very gracious and patient with me. :o)  My lead work is improving
>daily...(thank God)
>
>Suzanne in Tulsa
>----
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 21:19:18 2000
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X-Path: domesticity.net!bethanie
From: Bethanie Brown <bethanie@domesticity.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 01:09:25 -0400
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Shari --

Thanks so much for your help!! I think I'll take the suggestions from the
group (and a couple other places where I posted the same question) to my
partner tomorrow and see what she thinks. We may just give the class a
short list of recommended texts, and they can decide to buy their own or
not.

Thanks again for going above & beyond -- it was so nice of you to try!

....Bethanie....

At 6:09 PM -0400 1/14/00, Shari wrote:
>aarrrggghhh...for a minute there I was hot on the trail...
>
>I called our local glass retailer in Salt Lake City to see if he knew Alicia
>and/or the publisher. Yes, he knew Alicia. She used to live in Park City and
>Crystal Images was her trade name. (Sounds like she probably "self
>published" the book.)
>
>Unfortunately, he believes she got married and moved to Florida. No one in
>the store knows for certain or knows what her married name is. But she
>probably held on to the trade name in Florida.
>
>Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?
>
>Shari in SLC
>
>
>> and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
>> from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, published by
>> Crystal Images Publications, 1990 OR 2) find alternative beginner's texts
>> and get copyright permissions from them.
>>
>> Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number given in
>> the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
>> searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company. They're
>> supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 00:27:01 2000
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To: BMarhon@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 02:57:25 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I must concur strongly with Brenda's recommendation of this book.

That book allowed me to be self-taught in both foil and lead, to a pretty 
reasonable skill level. (Good enough to sell work, and take on some 
restoration work, all with satisfied clients.) Yes, I dove into this hands 
and feet, but the teaching method employed by the book, together with the 
excellent photos, and the beginner projects, were great.

I especially enjoyed the ability to make a small panel, first via foil, then 
the same panel, with lead. For me, a simple way to see, early on, the 
differences in the two disciplines.

fwiw,

Richard Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 06:01:03 2000
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To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 08:40:14 -0400
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Congratulations Glenna and Dave!!! Maui is magical.

I am very disappointed that rejected names from the Meric search aren't
allowed. Geeze, Grinder is still a great name! <vbg>

Be careful with all the nasty stuff in glass work. Maybe you can spend
the next nine months cutting and foiling a million projects and finish
the rest after the baby comes.

Take care,
Hilary


> Just wanted to share some news with you all.
> Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
> pregnant!
> (Now to decide on some names)
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 08:01:24 2000
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From: "Susan C. Reitmann" <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Need pattern: Mt. Rainer
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 09:46:36 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Anyone out there in "Bungi-land" that knows of or has a pattern that would resemble Mt. Rainer in Seattle?
I've been sent several postcards but I can't draw worth a hoot and would like a basic pattern to start with.
Thanks in advance,
Sue Reitmann (oddjob@scc.net)

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 11:02:33 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Need pattern: Mt. Rainer
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:44:43 EST
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In a message dated 1/15/00 11:02:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, oddjob@scc.net 
writes:

> Anyone out there in "Bungi-land" that knows of or has a pattern that would 
> resemble Mt. Rainer in Seattle?
>  I've been sent several postcards but I can't draw worth a hoot and would 
> like a basic pattern to start with.
>  Thanks in advance,
>  Sue Reitmann (oddjob@scc.net)
>  
Suggestion:
find the photo that shows what it is you want to show, and trace the main 
lines... You will be designing.
Anne
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 12:35:04 2000
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01/15/00

Jim Sander
Director of On-Line Travel Programs
Orlando Magical Vacation, Inc.

Re: A Spectacular Disney/Orlando Magical Vacation!!

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Summerfield Condo Resort.

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 12:39:12 2000
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X-Path: aisl.bc.ca!atwoods
From: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:21:04 -0800
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Unfortunately, it is not an isolated event.  But I also want to make it
clear that not all shop owners view "Art" versus "Craft" this way.  (I know
there is at least one gallery that does not - mine! :-) )

I personally find this "Art" versus "Craft" distinction harmful to the real
goal of this whole thing - to bring beauty into peoples lives.  Or maybe not
just beauty - in some cases art can be ugly for the sake of provoking
thought or emotions or making a statement.  Either way, I see a lot of bad
crap passed off at high prices just because the person doing it is an
"Artist", and I see a lot of absolutely wonderful work given a lower status
because it has been categorized as "Craft".

For myself and Adriana's and my art gallery, we look for the following:
1. Quality workmanship.  I don't care if it is a painting or "craft".  A
poorly executed painting is still crap.
2. What I can best describe as "soul" or "life".  This is a personal
judgment in the more difficult to define realm of emotions.  Basically, does
the piece evoke emotions?  A sense of awe?  Just a plain old sense of joy or
well being?  Or does it speak to any other part of life (i.e. "dark art" may
well speak to the darker emotions)?  Is there any sense the art/craftsperson
put something of life into the piece?

(Now in the particular case of our gallery, one must also be a coastal
British Columbia artist preferably Texada Island, Sunshine Coast mid-eastern
Vancouver Island or other Howe Sound / Malaspina Strait / Georgia Strait
location.  But that is just because local work is the niche we aim for in
the gallery.  It is not a reflection of quality or anything like that).

So when you find a gallery or shop that treats you as a lower class just
because they have classified your work as "craft", I say screw them.  Tell
them why you are leaving and then leave.  Go somewhere else and try again.
Places that will treat a craftsperson right do in fact exist.

----- Original Message -----
From: charlie <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 6:38 AM
Subject: art or craft ?


> I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken work
> into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to
> pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
> inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner.
is
> this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
> Charlie
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 14:03:20 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 16:44:21 -0500
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Message text written by "Tim & Adriana Atwood"
>Either way, I see a lot of bad
crap passed off at high prices just because the person doing it is an
"Artist", and I see a lot of absolutely wonderful work given a lower stat=
us
because it has been categorized as "Craft".<

Dani Greer says:

Yup.  ;-)
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 07:00:57 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Treated wood, Mosaic question
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 09:55:23 EST
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In a message dated 1/14/00 6:23:55 PM, thomm@vnet.net writes:

>For safety's sake and your health, try not to sand 'treated' wood.  You
>should also be very careful about breathing even the minute sawdust when
>sawing 'treated' wood.

For that matter, you really should wear a good dust-filtering respirator any 
time you're sanding or sawing any kind of wood - but yes, that goes double 
(or maybe triple) when you're working with treated wood.

>I don't understand the reasoning behind why anyone thinks it would be
>necessary to seal, paint, etc., treated wood.  The 'treated' wood is
>pressure treated with chemicals to a uniform depth to be bug resistant
>for many years.

Yes, pressure-treated wood is bug- and rot-resistant, but if it's not also 
waterproofed it will still soak up a certain amount of water and swell when 
it gets wet, and swell further if it freezes after it gets wet (as it's 
likely to do in areas where the weather can go from 55F and raining to 17F in 
about a day and a half, the way it did in Philly last week), and too much of 
that happening will definitely cause the grout in your mosaic (which is also 
subject to water absorption and freezing) to crack and fall off.

To be on the safe side, I'd make sure the wood is thoroughly dry, seal it 
with Thompson's or equivalent, and give that a couple of days to cure 
completely before adding your mosaic. The same goes for terra cotta.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 09:01:07 2000
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Subject: what do i charge?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 11:57:30 EST
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hello,
i have been working with stain glass for awhile now. i just have been doing 
pieces for myself, family and friends. i friend of mine lives near the DC 
area, and want to take some of my panels to work and sell. i have no clue on 
what to charge. most of my panels are 12 1/2 by 15 1/2, foiled and wrapped 
with lead cane. they range for 21 pieces to 50 piece. i use mostly wissmock 
glass. please help me, i don't want to sell them to cheap and under cut 
anyone, so if someone could write me back, tell me what a 21pcs , 37pcs,and 
50 pcs panel should be sold for. Thank you!
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 09:37:32 2000
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Subject: Re: what do I charge?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 12:27:12 EST
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This site might help you.

http://www.glendalemall.com/pricing.htm
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 11:38:26 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: THOR7127@aol.com
Subject: Re: what do i charge?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:17:10 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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If only there was a simple answer to your question, many of use would
have some hair left!

There are a variety of charging schemes, which can be found in the
archives.   There are two basic methods:
        charge per piece (1-2 dollars seems to be the lower end of the
range) This can be modified by adding the cost of the glass and other
supplies, and overheads to the piece times formula.   This makes it very
similar to the second.
        charge by the time taken plus overheads for that time and costs
of materials.  Of course if you are estimating, you will have to had
kept records.  If you haven't up to now, start keeping records for each
project.
        The records should at least include:  size, # pieces, total area
of glass used (and its cost), amount of foil used, amount of solder
used, time used in each stage of the project (designing, selecting
glass, cutting the glass, fitting the glass, foiling/leading, soldering,
finishing).
        After you have done a number of projects you will be able to
analyse the records for averages and standard deviations from the
average.  This will give you information for judging how much time and
expense both each project took, and also how much time and expense other
projects are likely to take.  
        The rate for the time taken is up to you.  It might range from 0
to 50 dollars an hour.  These factors added and multiplied will give you
a rate of return.  Don't forget that if you want to put pieces in stores
or craft fairs there are additional expenses and commissions to pay.
        There may be a copy of my time sheet on the intrastar list web
page.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 12:09:22 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Nice photos of John La Farge glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:48:04 +0000
Message-ID: <200001161950.OAA12952@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
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If you're interested, you can see why John La Farge was so highly 
thought of. I just added photos of several of his pieces to Julie 
Sloan's web site - http://www.jlsloan.com/

The first image you'll see will be replaced by another ... and 
another, so wait a minute. Then go to the link above the photos and 
you'll find *more images of his work.

Tiffany and Frank Lloyd Wright stained glass will be added shortly. 
Enjoy!

Albert

Albert Lewis
AllDesignCom.com | Design & Communications
__________________________________________
54 Cherry Street      North Adams MA 01247
413 663-7946             Fax: 413 663-7167
      http://www.alldesigncom.com/
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 12:20:34 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore
From: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: "p'cut" glass?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 12:00:04 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Was recently in a shop that had an interesting glass
that I tried to buy from the owner.  He wouldn't sell
out of his studio, but said that I could probably get
it from any supplier.  

He said the name was something like "peacutt" (at
first I thought "peacock", but he corrected me). I
have searched all the sources I have available and
can't find a manufacturer.  Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Barbara
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 13:31:51 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Rbytl
From: Rbytl@aol.com
To: atwoods@aisl.bc.ca, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 16:12:06 EST
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That is right on!

Germain to the Art/Craft thing, but so true of life, in general. If people 
(artists and crafters as well ) would just simply refuse to be victims!!!.

Thanks for your candor. I wish there was more of that in our society.

Richard
Richard Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 15:30:45 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:Rbytl@aol.com" <Rbytl@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:17:24 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:Rbytl@aol.com
>If people =

(artists and crafters as well ) would just simply refuse to be victims!!!=

From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 16:10:13 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glass@intrastar.net
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Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:52:12 -0800 (PST)
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Good question Margie!  You asked if one should seal the wooden houses
before doing mosaics.  Actually, I will be waiting for the replies on this
one.  As a class we did birdhouses and sealed the mosaic AFTER we grouted
it but no one thought about sealing it first.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 16:27:37 2000
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From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Nice photos of John La Farge glass
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:02:17 -0500
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on this day you wrote:

>If you're interested, you can see why John La Farge was so highly 
>thought of. I just added photos of several of his pieces to Julie 
>Sloan's web site - http://www.jlsloan.com/

Albert,

Nice photos! Very interesting presentation! The man's work is wondrous. 
Thanks!
Suzanne A.
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 16:43:20 2000
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Subject: Re: "p'cut" glass? 
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 00:19:54 +0000
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At 12:00 16/01/00 -0800, Barbara wrote:
>He said the name was something like "peacutt" (at
>first I thought "peacock", but he corrected me). I
>have searched all the sources I have available and
>can't find a manufacturer.  Can anyone help?

Barbara it could be T cut which is a phrase used by spectrum (I think ) to
describe non-standard/quality glass.  It is supposed to be sold cheaper
than the regular line and contains flaws.  We often suspect that glass we
pay the regular price for is this substandard glass as we often get
spectrum glass with "skid marks" and what glassblowers call "stones" -
small lumps of white stuff off the kiln walls - in it and have to sell it
at a discount.  But our suppliers assure us that they dont sell T cut glass!!
Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 03:30:48 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:27:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<azeiBCAhmag4Ew4T@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

When I posted about the Thomas Registry or Thomas Register, everything I
spoke of *was about* the *heading*, Good Books for Beginners.

Please read and *understand* before trying to correct the good
intentions of others.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Cc: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 6:21 AM
Subject: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)


: Hey, Folks.
:         Now is the time to change headings, since the posts are not
: about "Good books for beginners" but about trade names.
:         It would help in the use of this list if everyone made these
: changes.
: In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tom <thomm@vnet.net> writes
: >Try the Thomas Registry, I believe that is what it's called.  You
will
: >have to 'join', but it's free, to do a search.  This could also be
: >called the 'Thomas Register'.  This source is usually in public
: >libraries and lists companies that do business in the US and the
world
: >as well.
: >
: >Tom
: >
: >----- Original Message -----
: >From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
: >To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
: >Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:09 PM
: >Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
: >
: >
: >...........
: >: Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?
: >:
: >: Shari in SLC
: >
: >: > Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number
: >given in
: >: > the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
: >: > searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company.
: >They're
: >: > supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.
: >
: >
: >----
: >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:
: --
: Steve Richard
: Verrier Art Glass Ltd
: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 05:56:54 2000
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From: Larry & Chris Snyder <lcans@tctwest.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Master Glass Sets
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:25:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the suppliers
have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone  prefers
over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome your
thoughts.  Chris
-- 
2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
unproductive 
Cns in WY
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 08:29:58 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:58:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by "Shari"
>> I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics th=
en
> silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC
>

Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to leav=
e
the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board by
sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly mor=
e
"finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on the
finished look you are after.<

I don't advocate using a coat of paint on an unsealed terra cotta
flower pot.  I tried that, and 2 years after the mosaic work, the
glass & grout was popping off.  The water will still seep in somehow
and will destroy your mosaic work (boo).  So - water sealant is my
preferred method.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 10:27:20 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:13:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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I usually enjoy others posts to glassbungi.

But, when signature lines are of the "in your face" type message, I
place those names in a file so that they are not even downloaded from my
server.  Sorry to have to do this, but I really don't appreciate your
cyber message.  If you want to witness, fine, just witness off the list
as you don't know just who you are trying to witness to.

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:25 AM
Subject: Master Glass Sets


: I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the suppliers
: have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone  prefers
: over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome
your
: thoughts.  Chris
: --
: 2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
: Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
: Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
: increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
: unproductive
: Cns in WY
: ----
: For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 10:39:01 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: studio safety
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:34:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk



-------------Forwarded Message-----------------

From:	INTERNET:ACTSNYC@cs.com, INTERNET:ACTSNYC@cs.com
To:	[unknown], GreerStudios
	=

Date:	1/16/100  7:21 PM

RE:	Re: studio safety

 =

In a message dated 1/16/00 4:37:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, =

GreerStudios@compuserve.com writes:

> =

>  What is legally required of a commercial studio regarding =

>  the safety of employees?  Anything? =

>  Where I work there is no special ventilation, no respirators and they
>  unzip old panels in the middle of the studio.
>  Ive seen no msds info anywhere, and one of the owners was just diagnos=
ed
>  with lung cancer.  The studio people refused to open something the oth=
er
>  day (I dont know what it was) saying for all we know that's what made
>  the owner sick.  =

>  =

>  Suzanne

That's a really incredible question.  Employers have to provide a safe =

workplace for their employees that is free of recognized hazards.  From t=
his =

simple requirement there are now three huge volumes of laws and regulatio=
ns.  =

Many of them apply to the stained glass studio.

The most important of these regulations are the ones regarding lead.  In =
this =

case 29 CFR 1910.1025 requires personal monitoring, and a flock of protec=
tive =

measures.  Most stained glass studios are operating illegally with respec=
t to =

this law.  They could be shut down and the owners cited and fined. It is =
why =

I have pushed so hard to get this community to understand that they must =

spend the money to do this right.

They must spend the money one of two ways:

1.  Hire industrial hygienists and ventilation consultants to set up a st=
udio =

in which lead can be used.  This will cost many, many thousands of dollar=
s =

and will be a continuing expense in terms of retraining, changing filters=
, =

disposing of filters as toxic waste, blood tests, medical record keeping,=
 and =

much more.

or

2.  Stop using lead.  There are lead-free solders out there.  They are a =

little harder to use, but they are there.  There is zinc came.  There are=
 =

ways to do this--they will make big changes in the work, but these method=
s =

and materials must be used by those who can't afford the lead-using studi=
o.  =



The only way to escape the law is to work alone with no employees at all.=
  =

OSHA then has no jurisdiction and you are allowed to do yourself in howev=
er =

you choose.


Monona Rossol
ACTS
181 Thompson St., # 23
NYC NY 10012-2586   =







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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 14:03:38 2000
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To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: studio safety
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:49:35 -0500
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[snip]

> Many of them apply to the stained glass studio.
> The most important of these regulations are the ones regarding lead.  In
this
> case 29 CFR 1910.1025 requires personal monitoring, and a flock of
protective
> measures.  Most stained glass studios are operating illegally with respect
to
> this law.  They could be shut down and the owners cited and fined. It is
why
> I have pushed so hard to get this community to understand that they must
> spend the money to do this right.
>

[snip]


The link to the OSHA standard in question:
http://www.osha-slc.gov/OshStd_data/1910_1025.html

Some notable excerpts:

    This section applies to all occupational exposure to lead, except as
provided
    in paragraph (a)(2).

    "Action level" means employee exposure, without regard to the use of
respirators,
    to an airborne concentration of lead of 30 micrograms per cubic meter of
air
    (30 ug/m(3)) averaged over an 8-hour period.

    Permissible exposure limit (PEL).
    The employer shall assure that no employee is exposed to lead at
concentrations
    greater than fifty micrograms per cubic meter of air (50 ug/m(3))
averaged over
    an 8-hour period

    Full shift personal samples shall be representative of the monitored
employee's regular,
    daily exposure to lead.


And let's not forget appendix A of case 29 CFR 1910.1025
http://www.osha-slc.gov/OshStd_data/1910_1025_APP_A.html

Notable excerpts:

    A. Ways in which lead enters your body. When absorbed into your body in
certain
    doses lead is a toxic substance. The object of the lead standard is to
prevent
    absorption of harmful quantities of lead. The standard is intended to
protect you
    not only from the immediate toxic effects of lead, but also from the
serious toxic
    effects that may not become apparent until years of exposure have
passed.

    Lead can be absorbed into your body by inhalation (BREATHING) and
ingestion
    (EATING). Lead (except for certain organic lead compounds not covered by
the
    standard, such as tetraethyl lead) IS NOT ABSORBED THROUGH YOUR SKIN.
    When lead is scattered in the air as a dust, fume or mist it can be
inhaled and
    absorbed through you lungs and upper respiratory tract. Inhalation of
airborne lead
    is generally the most important source of occupational lead absorption.
You can
    also absorb lead through your digestive system if lead gets into your
mouth and
    is swallowed. If you handle food, cigarettes, chewing tobacco, or
make-up which
    have lead on them or handle them with hands contaminated with lead, this
will
    contribute to ingestion.

(My crap a.k.a. Know Thy Enemy)
a) The regulation deals strictly with airborne Lead.

b) Personal monitoring does not mean monitoring personnel.  It means
monitoring the air in
the work area where personnel are likely exposed to Lead.

c) Unless people are doing something out of the ordinary with Lead as it
pertains to Stained Glass,
like buffing up your Lead or solder lines with a wire brush on an angle
grinder or  heating Lead
or Lead bearing mixtures to the boiling point of Lead, the airborne
concentrations should be _well_
below 30 micrograms/cubic meter averaged over an 8 hour period.  Anything
below and OSHA
does not require _any_ action on the employers part.

d) Handling Lead is not dangerous per-se as it can not be absorbed through
the skin.
Wash your hands afterward; don't eat/drink/smoke/apply makeup/etc. while
handling it.
In other words, use common sense.  There are excellent hand detergents
specifically
to address the removal of heavy metals from the skin.  Us them.

Now seeing that the government is not all-knowing when it comes to much of
anything,
and if you're truly concerned about Lead exposure from the concernable
sources,
by all means have some testing performed. Lead _is_ dangerous.  But only
under the proper
conditions.  As far as OSHA citing or shutting you down, well....

Lead has to be one of the least of your worries concerning stained glass.
Educate yourself
on all the real potential dangers like huffing a little Whiting, ingesting
some Zinc Chloride or Selinic
Oxide or Nitric Acid, holding the 4 square feet of glass over head to see
the light through it
(It's all fun and games until some one loses an eye...), or breathing the
fumes from the organic
carrier in flux (any flux, including tallow) as it smokes off your iron,
worry about a three fingered
handshake for the rest of your life the next time you drop that came
chop-saw.

(Check out the OSHA regs on equipment operation...)

[snip]
> 1.  Hire industrial hygienists and ventilation consultants to set up a
studio
> in which lead can be used.  This will cost many, many thousands of dollars
> and will be a continuing expense in terms of retraining, changing filters,
> disposing of filters as toxic waste, blood tests, medical record keeping,
> and  much more.
>
> or
>
> 2.  Stop using lead.  There are lead-free solders out there.  They are a
> little harder to use, but they are there.  There is zinc came.  There are
> ways to do this--they will make big changes in the work, but these methods
> and materials must be used by those who can't afford the lead-using
studio.
[snip]

Unless I'm missing something in the regs, this seems excessive and
unnecessary.
Especially when you're already scrapping by to make a living.

Let me repeat.  Lead is dangerous.  And worse yet, it is insidious in its
actions.  That's why
people are terrified of it, and why there is so much lore and
misunderstanding surrounding it.
KNOW IT, UNDERSTAND IT AND TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS.
They're not expensive.

-G

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 15:31:03 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Did Louis Tiffany "invent" opalescent glass?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 18:11:08 +0000
Message-ID: <200001172313.SAA15002@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
Precedence: bulk

Did Louis Tiffany "invent" opalescent glass?

Julie Sloan says, "probably not," if I read her research correctly. 
Take a look yourself:   http://www.jlsloan.com/articles.htm
then
scroll down one click to
"The Rivalry Between Louis Comfort Tiffany and John La Farge"
and enjoy the benefit of her research yourself.

Nice photos, too.

Albert
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 16:30:57 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:00:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<+RRL5FAdD4g4Ew+Z@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Steve,

See?  This is exactly what I meant by my answer to you.

You obviously *missed* the meat of the subject.  Please get the whole
story, nothing but the story, before you criticize others for the way
they post re:headers.  You are clearly in the wrong, but I didn't want
to say that to the world.  But, you've left me no choice.  I hope the
subject matter re:headers and "correctness" is over soon.

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)


: Sorry Tom.
: I can't see how a message about tracing a company by trade name has
: anything to do with books for beginners.
:
: Steve
:
: In message <012001bf60dd$dc8e1080$f23152a6@xx>, Tom <thomm@vnet.net>
: writes
: >When I posted about the Thomas Registry or Thomas Register,
everything I
: >spoke of *was about* the *heading*, Good Books for Beginners.
: >
: >Please read and *understand* before trying to correct the good
: >intentions of others.
: >
: >Tom
: >
: >----- Original Message -----
: >From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
: >To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
: >Cc: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
: >Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 6:21 AM
: >Subject: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)
: >
: >
: >: Hey, Folks.
: >:         Now is the time to change headings, since the posts are not
: >: about "Good books for beginners" but about trade names.
: >:         It would help in the use of this list if everyone made
these
: >: changes.
: >: In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tom <thomm@vnet.net> writes
: >: >Try the Thomas Registry, I believe that is what it's called.  You
: >will
: >: >have to 'join', but it's free, to do a search.  This could also be
: >: >called the 'Thomas Register'.  This source is usually in public
: >: >libraries and lists companies that do business in the US and the
: >world
: >: >as well.
: >: >
: >: >Tom
: >: >
: >: >----- Original Message -----
: >: >From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
: >: >To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
: >: >Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:09 PM
: >: >Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
: >: >
: >: >
: >: >...........
: >: >: Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade
name?
: >: >:
: >: >: Shari in SLC
: >: >
: >: >: > Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the
number
: >: >given in
: >: >: > the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different
Internet
: >: >: > searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company.
: >: >They're
: >: >: > supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus
far.
: >: >
: >: >
: >: >----
: >: >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: >: >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: >: >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
: >:
: >: --
: >: Steve Richard
: >: Verrier Art Glass Ltd
: >: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
: >:
: >
:
: --
: Steve Richard
: Verrier Art Glass Ltd
: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 16:33:01 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Debbie T" <debbiesgarden@crosswinds.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: In your face, crap
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:09:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<38838BD0.A9CB59C@crosswinds.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Debbie,

I used the "Filter" setup instead so I won't have to [DELETE] those
members anymore.

Do you really think it's "just me" who doesn't like being smacked with
bible verses on others signature lines (and some even include these IN
their posts on some lists)?  I can guarantee you that it's not "just
me", but rather a lot of others who feel as I do.  I didn't join this
list to read bible verses or be witnessed to, I joined this list for the
exchange of good stained glass talk as did those who would support my
position.  Why you get yourself upset (caps are usually reserved for
*shouting!*) is something only you can understand.  Perhaps you get "in
your face" with others, too?  Just a guess, not a statement so don't
jump all over me again.

Tom in NC - home of the Big BUCKLE of the Bible Belt (maybe this has
hardened me by being constantly exposed to those who would get "in my
face!"  Maybe.)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Debbie T" <debbiesgarden@crosswinds.net>
To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets


: OH FOR CRYING OUT LOUD! Knock it off. So what if he wants to use a
personal
: signature line?  Quitchurbeefin bud! We don't need another flame war
going
: on ON the list. Feel free to use your delete button. Freedom is
wonderful!
:
: Tom wrote:
:
: > I usually enjoy others posts to glassbungi.
: >
: > But, when signature lines are of the "in your face" type message, I
: > place those names in a file so that they are not even downloaded
from my
: > server.  Sorry to have to do this, but I really don't appreciate
your
: > cyber message.  If you want to witness, fine, just witness off the
list
: > as you don't know just who you are trying to witness to.
: >
: > Tom in NC
: >
: > ----- Original Message -----
: > From: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
: > To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
: > Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:25 AM
: > Subject: Master Glass Sets
: >
: > : I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the
suppliers
: > : have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone
prefers
: > : over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome
: > your
: > : thoughts.  Chris
: > : --
: > : 2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
: > : Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance;
Godliness;
: > : Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
: > : increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
: > : unproductive
: > : Cns in WY
: > : ----
: > : For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: > : To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: > : Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
: > :
: >
: > ----
: > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 17:02:24 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets and more.........
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:43:36 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

Machine made sets are fine......hand made glass varies( imagine that) and a
2x3 inch piece may be the only part of that sheet with that color(s) on
it.........

cathedral glass and monochrome color tend to be uniform and sample sets show
them fine.


Now for the MORE.............
"2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
unproductive"
Cns in WY

I find the above signature message a lot more than I want to be told and
perhaps not an indicator of my character and productiveness as SOMEONE else
measures it. Seems to me, if the perpetrators of the above musings had
followed their own suggestions and observations, a few killings, massacres,
and an overall tolerance of their "fellow" human beings would have been/and
or will be different!

After this post to you and a return post either direct or to the list will
be handled by my "in-box" assistant.

sincerely, Howard


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 19:06:25 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your face, crap
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 21:38:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Organization: Mike's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Tom wrote:
> 
> Debbie,
> 
> I used the "Filter" setup instead so I won't have to [DELETE] those
> members anymore.
> 
> Do you really think it's "just me" who doesn't like being smacked with
> bible verses on others signature lines (and some even include these IN
> their posts on some lists)?  I can guarantee you that it's not "just
> me", but rather a lot of others who feel as I do.  I didn't join this
> list to read bible verses or be witnessed to, I joined this list for the
> exchange of good stained glass talk as did those who would support my
> position.  Why you get yourself upset (caps are usually reserved for
> *shouting!*) is something only you can understand.  Perhaps you get "in
> your face" with others, too?  Just a guess, not a statement so don't
> jump all over me again.
> 
> Tom in NC - home of the Big BUCKLE of the Bible Belt (maybe this has
> hardened me by being constantly exposed to those who would get "in my
> face!"  Maybe.)
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Debbie T" <debbiesgarden@crosswinds.net>
> To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 4:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets
> 
> : OH FOR CRYING OUT LOUD! Knock it off. So what if he wants to use a
> personal
> : signature line?  Quitchurbeefin bud! We don't need another flame war
> going
> : on ON the list. Feel free to use your delete button. Freedom is
> wonderful!
> :
> : Tom wrote:
> :
> : > I usually enjoy others posts to glassbungi.
> : >
> : > But, when signature lines are of the "in your face" type message, I
> : > place those names in a file so that they are not even downloaded
> from my
> : > server.  Sorry to have to do this, but I really don't appreciate
> your
> : > cyber message.  If you want to witness, fine, just witness off the
> list
> : > as you don't know just who you are trying to witness to.
> : >
> : > Tom in NC
> : >
> : > ----- Original Message -----
> : > From: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
> : > To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> : > Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:25 AM
> : > Subject: Master Glass Sets
> : >
> : > : I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the
> suppliers
> : > : have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone
> prefers
> : > : over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome
> : > your
> : > : thoughts.  Chris
> : > : --
> : > : 2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
> : > : Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance;
> Godliness;
> : > : Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
> : > : increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
> : > : unproductive
> : > : Cns in WY
> : > : ----

personally i'm very anti bible - anti religion. personally i didn't even
see it there. it would have to be pretty big for me to see it maybe an
ASCII monkey or something. 

i ignore stuff like that. it would be annoying if he tried converting
someone up front. i wouldn't worry about it. 

i never liked the bible pushers myself. don't believe in god. probably
should'nt have signed those christian guestbooks, i still get bible
greetings and salutations... but in this case it's not all that bad....



---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 20:13:11 2000
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X-Path: ior.com!glshorse
From: Elizabeth Arakelian <glshorse@ior.com>
To: Tom <thomm@vnet.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your face, crap
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:44:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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my only comment on this is why is it OK for someone to put quotes from
all sorts of philosiphers (sp?) etc etc etc(which folks on bungi freely
do...)..or quotes from other religions..I dare say no one would say a
peep if someone had a quote from buddha or Ghandi or Maimonides  on
their tag line. And awhile back I believe someone had a direct link to
her own wiccan web site attached to every post she posted (which btw I
was NOT offended by her including it...its a free country...I may
strongly disagree with her but shes perfectly entitled to state her
views in a nonoffensive manner) and there was nary a negative word about
it (or even any word about it if I so remember) But heaven forbid
someone quotes the bible...I can only imagine if someone had posted a
link to his/her own Christian website the flak that would
ensue....methinks I smell a double standard here......something to think
about.


Liz
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 21:55:13 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Elizabeth Arakelian" <glshorse@ior.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: In your face *double standard*?  Really?
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 00:33:34 -0500
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Double standard?  From or by whom, pray tell?

Tom

From: "Elizabeth Arakelian" <glshorse@ior.com>

snipped...................I can only imagine if someone had posted a
: link to his/her own Christian website the flak that would
: ensue....methinks I smell a double standard here......something to
think
: about.
: Liz


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 22:30:38 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re:  In our faces and Morse Museum (new topic)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 01:22:00 -0500
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--------------817C334B6930C32E78E618FE
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Umm - hey people - It's January, we're none of us getting enough light,
it's cold and windy, we've all got the flu, and February is coming and
it's probably even more dreary than January.  So can we all take it
somewhat easy on each other?

I finally got to see the Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).
Long  drive from Sarasota (2 hrs on interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).
But it was worth it.  Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing
collection of Tiffany.  Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available
for seeing.  But I grabbed a docent and she took me about, and I plied
her with a multitude of questions, some of which she could answer, and
some not.  They now have a little publication on Tiffany available only
for the staff (written by McKean) - let us hope they make it available
for the rest of us.  They also have a number of paintings and sketches
by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry, and quite a bit of the blown
glass.  The museum is also concentrated on the Arts and Crafts period,
with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny bit of furnature.

It was interesting to see how a piece started with a fine finished
drawing/painting - a finished work of art in itself, and then see how
he/they had reduced it and simplified it so it would work for stained
glass.  It was also interesting to see how 3-D many of the things were.
Oh, I knew about the layering, but you don't realize from photos that he
has used marbles - huge shooters, regular ones, tiny ones and blobs of
all sizes.  And he has faceted them by beating or hammering, as though
they were dalle de verre.  He either cast or slumped lots of pieces into
jewels and other shapes and then incorporated those - not just in the
lamps.

He also did a lot of 3-D with the solder or lead lines - the way he has
used the came-on-came in the eggplant panel is wonderful and really
gives that ridged effect of the stalks.  Some of the windows were
traditionally reinforced, but some had came or reinforcement set on edge
so it was way raised up and an intregral part of the 3-D design as well
as reinforcing the piece.

He also had bowed some circular places.  Unfortunately, kinda like Frank
Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit more than he should have.  The
docent volunteered that the La Farge totally lacks these 3-D effects.

The "chapel" done for the Chicago Exposition was impressive, although I
guess I expected more, but I guess it too had been in the fire that
originally allowed the Morse to have the stuff.  The whole thing has
been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and there was an enormous amount of
restoration that had to be done.  My, I wish the guy that headed the
restoration would write a book with all the details he has learned about
how things were done.

Elisabeth - I remember you commenting about the cold painting (faces,
hands, etc.) on the one window.  The docent pointed that out and said it
was very common, expecially in European stained glass at the time.
Americans were more apt to fire their painting, she said.  (Don't know
what her source for that was, so can't tell if it was accurate or not.)

I particularly took note of the glass itself, since he(they) made it to
spec - want red/green for swiss chard? make some.  Want pine needles?
Throw some black streamers on and fuse.  Want interesting water ? Fuse
some flakes.  I didn't notice any of the thick dense opalescent often
used in the Victorian type of church/house windows.  His glass mostly
was medium when he wanted opacity, and medium/dense at it's most
opaque.  But I didn't think he used opaque much, other than when he
wanted white as a color.  The docent noted he often used silver or gold
foil backing to the glass - particularly that used for mosaic work, but
that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium - cheaper and wouldn't
tarnish, and anything gold was  painted, again as a cost measure.

He also incorporated river stones, and sliced, colored and polished
marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes used some kind of mastic or
morter to hold them in pattern).  There is a name for such marble work,
but it escapes me.

Instead of opalescent, he layered.  I was particularly interested in how
he/they did it.  I didn't know if he just layed one piece on top of
another and simply soldered at any join, but the docent said that all
the layered pieces were foiled to the ones on top or below.  Not that
there was a one-for-one correlation, but at some edge a whole layer
would be completely foiled to that above or below.

Color art photos are wonderful, as are posters, but until you get right
up next to the that glass you cannot imagine how subtle and fantastic
his use of color was.

The shop was very nice with a good selection of books on Tiffany, and
the arts and crafts period.  There is a fine book on Tiffany works no
longer available (The Lost Tiffany by McKean) but it was $100, so
somehow I didn't buy it.

Are there any books on his studio, the people working for him, etc?  How
nice he had daddy's money to help set things up so he could afford to
investigate all the various properties of glass and metalwork, but, my,
he had a large streak of curiosity to go along with towering talent.

Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend your going out of your way to
see it.  Incidentally, across the street is a church with more dalle de
verre than I'd ever seen in one place.  Very well done, and you can walk
into the narthex/foyer, and see some of it right up close.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


--------------817C334B6930C32E78E618FE
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<font face="Times New Roman,Times">Umm - hey people - It's January, we're
none of us getting enough light, it's cold and windy, we've all got the
flu, and February is coming and it's probably even more dreary than January.&nbsp;
So can we all take it somewhat easy on each other?</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I finally got to see the Morse Museum
in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).&nbsp; Long&nbsp; drive from Sarasota (2 hrs
on interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).&nbsp; But it was worth it.&nbsp;
Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing collection of Tiffany.&nbsp;
Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available for seeing.&nbsp; But I grabbed
a docent and she took me about, and I plied her with a multitude of questions,
some of which she could answer, and some not.&nbsp; They now have a little
publication on Tiffany available only for the staff (written by McKean)
- let us hope they make it available for the rest of us.&nbsp; They also
have a number of paintings and sketches by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry,
and quite a bit of the blown glass.&nbsp; The museum is also concentrated
on the Arts and Crafts period, with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny
bit of furnature.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">It was interesting to see how a piece
started with a fine finished drawing/painting - a finished work of art
in itself, and then see how he/they had reduced it and simplified it so
it would work for stained glass.&nbsp; It was also interesting to see how
3-D many of the things were.&nbsp; Oh, I knew about the layering, but you
don't realize from photos that he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular
ones, tiny ones and blobs of all sizes.&nbsp; And he has faceted them by
beating or hammering, as though they were dalle de verre.&nbsp; He either
cast or slumped lots of pieces into jewels and other shapes and then incorporated
those - not just in the lamps.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also did a lot of 3-D with the
solder or lead lines - the way he has used the came-on-came in the eggplant
panel is wonderful and really gives that ridged effect of the stalks.&nbsp;
Some of the windows were traditionally reinforced, but some had came or
reinforcement set on edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part
of the 3-D design as well as reinforcing the piece.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also had bowed some circular places.&nbsp;
Unfortunately, kinda like Frank Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit
more than he should have.&nbsp; The docent volunteered that the La Farge
totally lacks these 3-D effects.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The "chapel" done for the Chicago
Exposition was impressive, although I guess I expected more, but I guess
it too had been in the fire that originally allowed the Morse to have the
stuff.&nbsp; The whole thing has been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and
there was an enormous amount of restoration that had to be done.&nbsp;
My, I wish the guy that headed the restoration would write a book with
all the details he has learned about how things were done.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Elisabeth - I remember you commenting
about the cold painting (faces, hands, etc.) on the one window.&nbsp; The
docent pointed that out and said it was very common, expecially in European
stained glass at the time.&nbsp; Americans were more apt to fire their
painting, she said.&nbsp; (Don't know what her source for that was, so
can't tell if it was accurate or not.)</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I particularly took note of the glass
itself, since he(they) made it to spec - want red/green for swiss chard?
make some.&nbsp; Want pine needles? Throw some black streamers on and fuse.&nbsp;
Want interesting water ? Fuse some flakes.&nbsp; I didn't notice any of
the thick dense opalescent often used in the Victorian type of church/house
windows.&nbsp; His glass mostly was medium when he wanted opacity, and
medium/dense at it's most opaque.&nbsp; But I didn't think he used opaque
much, other than when he wanted white as a color.&nbsp; The docent noted
he often used silver or gold foil backing to the glass - particularly that
used for mosaic work, but that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium
- cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and anything gold was&nbsp; painted, again
as a cost measure.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also incorporated river stones,
and sliced, colored and polished marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes
used some kind of mastic or morter to hold them in pattern).&nbsp; There
is a name for such marble work, but it escapes me.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Instead of opalescent, he layered.&nbsp;
I was particularly interested in how he/they did it.&nbsp; I didn't know
if he just layed one piece on top of another and simply soldered at any
join, but the docent said that all the layered pieces were foiled to the
ones on top or below.&nbsp; Not that there was a one-for-one correlation,
but at some edge a whole layer would be completely foiled to that above
or below.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Color art photos are wonderful, as
are posters, but until you get right up next to the that glass you cannot
imagine how subtle and fantastic his use of color was.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The shop was very nice with a good
selection of books on Tiffany, and the arts and crafts period.&nbsp; There
is a fine book on Tiffany works no longer available (The Lost Tiffany by
McKean) but it was $100, so somehow I didn't buy it.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Are there any books on his studio,
the people working for him, etc?&nbsp; How nice he had daddy's money to
help set things up so he could afford to investigate all the various properties
of glass and metalwork, but, my, he had a large streak of curiosity to
go along with towering talent.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend
your going out of your way to see it.&nbsp; Incidentally, across the street
is a church with more dalle de verre than I'd ever seen in one place.&nbsp;
Very well done, and you can walk into the narthex/foyer, and see some of
it right up close.</font>
<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------817C334B6930C32E78E618FE--

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Please be so kind as to remove my name from your list serve.  Thank you.

Donna

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<font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Please be so kind as to remove
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<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Donna</font></font></html>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 05:54:58 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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I have no idea why this came up as empty.  Hoping for better luck this
time. - Cec

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> Umm - hey people - It's January, we're none of us getting enough
> light, it's cold and windy, we've all got the flu, and February is
> coming and it's probably even more dreary than January.  So can we all
> take it somewhat easy on each other?
>
> I finally got to see the Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).
> Long  drive from Sarasota (2 hrs on interstates at 80 mph and
> TRAFFIC).  But it was worth it.  Not a large museum at all, but an
> intriguing collection of Tiffany.  Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't
> available for seeing.  But I grabbed a docent and she took me about,
> and I plied her with a multitude of questions, some of which she could
> answer, and some not.  They now have a little publication on Tiffany
> available only for the staff (written by McKean) - let us hope they
> make it available for the rest of us.  They also have a number of
> paintings and sketches by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry, and quite
> a bit of the blown glass.  The museum is also concentrated on the Arts
> and Crafts period, with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny bit of
> furnature.
>
> It was interesting to see how a piece started with a fine finished
> drawing/painting - a finished work of art in itself, and then see how
> he/they had reduced it and simplified it so it would work for stained
> glass.  It was also interesting to see how 3-D many of the things
> were.  Oh, I knew about the layering, but you don't realize from
> photos that he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular ones, tiny
> ones and blobs of all sizes.  And he has faceted them by beating or
> hammering, as though they were dalle de verre.  He either cast or
> slumped lots of pieces into jewels and other shapes and then
> incorporated those - not just in the lamps.
>
> He also did a lot of 3-D with the solder or lead lines - the way he
> has used the came-on-came in the eggplant panel is wonderful and
> really gives that ridged effect of the stalks.  Some of the windows
> were traditionally reinforced, but some had came or reinforcement set
> on edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part of the 3-D
> design as well as reinforcing the piece.
>
> He also had bowed some circular places.  Unfortunately, kinda like
> Frank Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit more than he should
> have.  The docent volunteered that the La Farge totally lacks these
> 3-D effects.
>
> The "chapel" done for the Chicago Exposition was impressive, although
> I guess I expected more, but I guess it too had been in the fire that
> originally allowed the Morse to have the stuff.  The whole thing has
> been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and there was an enormous amount of
> restoration that had to be done.  My, I wish the guy that headed the
> restoration would write a book with all the details he has learned
> about how things were done.
>
> Elisabeth - I remember you commenting about the cold painting (faces,
> hands, etc.) on the one window.  The docent pointed that out and said
> it was very common, expecially in European stained glass at the time.
> Americans were more apt to fire their painting, she said.  (Don't know
> what her source for that was, so can't tell if it was accurate or
> not.)
>
> I particularly took note of the glass itself, since he(they) made it
> to spec - want red/green for swiss chard? make some.  Want pine
> needles? Throw some black streamers on and fuse.  Want interesting
> water ? Fuse some flakes.  I didn't notice any of the thick dense
> opalescent often used in the Victorian type of church/house windows.
> His glass mostly was medium when he wanted opacity, and medium/dense
> at it's most opaque.  But I didn't think he used opaque much, other
> than when he wanted white as a color.  The docent noted he often used
> silver or gold foil backing to the glass - particularly that used for
> mosaic work, but that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium -
> cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and anything gold was  painted, again as
> a cost measure.
>
> He also incorporated river stones, and sliced, colored and polished
> marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes used some kind of mastic or
> morter to hold them in pattern).  There is a name for such marble
> work, but it escapes me.
>
> Instead of opalescent, he layered.  I was particularly interested in
> how he/they did it.  I didn't know if he just layed one piece on top
> of another and simply soldered at any join, but the docent said that
> all the layered pieces were foiled to the ones on top or below.  Not
> that there was a one-for-one correlation, but at some edge a whole
> layer would be completely foiled to that above or below.
>
> Color art photos are wonderful, as are posters, but until you get
> right up next to the that glass you cannot imagine how subtle and
> fantastic his use of color was.
>
> The shop was very nice with a good selection of books on Tiffany, and
> the arts and crafts period.  There is a fine book on Tiffany works no
> longer available (The Lost Tiffany by McKean) but it was $100, so
> somehow I didn't buy it.
>
> Are there any books on his studio, the people working for him, etc?
> How nice he had daddy's money to help set things up so he could afford
> to investigate all the various properties of glass and metalwork, but,
> my, he had a large streak of curiosity to go along with towering
> talent.
>
> Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend your going out of your way
> to see it.  Incidentally, across the street is a church with more
> dalle de verre than I'd ever seen in one place.  Very well done, and
> you can walk into the narthex/foyer, and see some of it right up
> close.
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
>

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


--------------A87DB0095A3E314E65EFE83C
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I have no idea why this came up as empty.&nbsp; Hoping for better luck
this time. - Cec
<p>Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Umm - hey people
- It's January, we're none of us getting enough light, it's cold and windy,
we've all got the flu, and February is coming and it's probably even more
dreary than January.&nbsp; So can we all take it somewhat easy on each
other?</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I finally got to see the Morse Museum
in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).&nbsp; Long&nbsp; drive from Sarasota (2 hrs
on interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).&nbsp; But it was worth it.&nbsp;
Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing collection of Tiffany.&nbsp;
Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available for seeing.&nbsp; But I grabbed
a docent and she took me about, and I plied her with a multitude of questions,
some of which she could answer, and some not.&nbsp; They now have a little
publication on Tiffany available only for the staff (written by McKean)
- let us hope they make it available for the rest of us.&nbsp; They also
have a number of paintings and sketches by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry,
and quite a bit of the blown glass.&nbsp; The museum is also concentrated
on the Arts and Crafts period, with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny
bit of furnature.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">It was interesting to see how a piece
started with a fine finished drawing/painting - a finished work of art
in itself, and then see how he/they had reduced it and simplified it so
it would work for stained glass.&nbsp; It was also interesting to see how
3-D many of the things were.&nbsp; Oh, I knew about the layering, but you
don't realize from photos that he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular
ones, tiny ones and blobs of all sizes.&nbsp; And he has faceted them by
beating or hammering, as though they were dalle de verre.&nbsp; He either
cast or slumped lots of pieces into jewels and other shapes and then incorporated
those - not just in the lamps.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also did a lot of 3-D with the
solder or lead lines - the way he has used the came-on-came in the eggplant
panel is wonderful and really gives that ridged effect of the stalks.&nbsp;
Some of the windows were traditionally reinforced, but some had came or
reinforcement set on edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part
of the 3-D design as well as reinforcing the piece.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also had bowed some circular places.&nbsp;
Unfortunately, kinda like Frank Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit
more than he should have.&nbsp; The docent volunteered that the La Farge
totally lacks these 3-D effects.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The "chapel" done for the Chicago
Exposition was impressive, although I guess I expected more, but I guess
it too had been in the fire that originally allowed the Morse to have the
stuff.&nbsp; The whole thing has been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and
there was an enormous amount of restoration that had to be done.&nbsp;
My, I wish the guy that headed the restoration would write a book with
all the details he has learned about how things were done.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Elisabeth - I remember you commenting
about the cold painting (faces, hands, etc.) on the one window.&nbsp; The
docent pointed that out and said it was very common, expecially in European
stained glass at the time.&nbsp; Americans were more apt to fire their
painting, she said.&nbsp; (Don't know what her source for that was, so
can't tell if it was accurate or not.)</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I particularly took note of the glass
itself, since he(they) made it to spec - want red/green for swiss chard?
make some.&nbsp; Want pine needles? Throw some black streamers on and fuse.&nbsp;
Want interesting water ? Fuse some flakes.&nbsp; I didn't notice any of
the thick dense opalescent often used in the Victorian type of church/house
windows.&nbsp; His glass mostly was medium when he wanted opacity, and
medium/dense at it's most opaque.&nbsp; But I didn't think he used opaque
much, other than when he wanted white as a color.&nbsp; The docent noted
he often used silver or gold foil backing to the glass - particularly that
used for mosaic work, but that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium
- cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and anything gold was&nbsp; painted, again
as a cost measure.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also incorporated river stones,
and sliced, colored and polished marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes
used some kind of mastic or morter to hold them in pattern).&nbsp; There
is a name for such marble work, but it escapes me.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Instead of opalescent, he layered.&nbsp;
I was particularly interested in how he/they did it.&nbsp; I didn't know
if he just layed one piece on top of another and simply soldered at any
join, but the docent said that all the layered pieces were foiled to the
ones on top or below.&nbsp; Not that there was a one-for-one correlation,
but at some edge a whole layer would be completely foiled to that above
or below.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Color art photos are wonderful, as
are posters, but until you get right up next to the that glass you cannot
imagine how subtle and fantastic his use of color was.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The shop was very nice with a good
selection of books on Tiffany, and the arts and crafts period.&nbsp; There
is a fine book on Tiffany works no longer available (The Lost Tiffany by
McKean) but it was $100, so somehow I didn't buy it.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Are there any books on his studio,
the people working for him, etc?&nbsp; How nice he had daddy's money to
help set things up so he could afford to investigate all the various properties
of glass and metalwork, but, my, he had a large streak of curiosity to
go along with towering talent.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend
your going out of your way to see it.&nbsp; Incidentally, across the street
is a church with more dalle de verre than I'd ever seen in one place.&nbsp;
Very well done, and you can walk into the narthex/foyer, and see some of
it right up close.</font>
<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>&nbsp;</blockquote>

<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 06:55:11 2000
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From: Trace <borealis@uswest.net>
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Subject: test
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:29:01 -0600
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....we interrupt the current thread to conduct this
test....this is only a test...should this be a real
emergency you would be given further instructions....we now
return you to the thread already in progress...thanks!

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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Bungi Group <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Intolerance
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 07:29:15 -0800
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Hi folks,

It is elementary netiquette that a person's signature file, no matter
what is in it (other than profanity and/or vulgar language), is not
considered to be part of the email and not to be responded to.  Anybo=
dy
can put anything they want in their signature file =85 and its OK bec=
ause
the signature file automatically appended to every email prepared by =
the
person is NOT a part of the email.

It is also elementary netiquette that off-topic discussions
(particularly those involving politics or religion) are to take place
OFF-THE-LIST.

These two points do not seem clear to everyone so I'm spelling it out=
 in
an unambiguous (I hope) manner.

Here in the USA, yesterday was a holiday, the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther
King, Jr.'s birthday.  This man was one of the many great people this
country has produced.  Without doubt he was the single most influenti=
al
Christian of the 20th Century, certainly in this part of the world he
was.  Many people either overlook or conveniently forget that Dr. Kin=
g
was, before everything else, a man of faith, a man of the cloth, and =
a
follower of Jesus of Nazareth.  It was for the application of his fai=
th
to one of the USA's major societal problems that he is remembered and
honored once a year on his birthday.

Yesterday both Tom from North Carolina and Howard provided excellent
examples of intolerance.  The religious intolerance demonstrated by T=
om
and Howard was clear-cut and unambiguous.  I would like to thank both=
 of
them for providing us with this excellent example of intolerance so
demonstrative of just how far we still have to go.  This poignant
example was most timely coming as it did on Dr. King's birthday.

Both Tom and Howard otherwise seem to be good men, eager to please, a=
nd
very helpful ... I guess we all have our moments eh?  <G>

Now =85 could we please kindly get back to the main topic of this lis=
t =85
glass?

Best regards to all =85=85=85. Bob Kerr

PS ... Congratulations to the both of you, Glenna and Dave.  Actually=
,
having had 4 of the little beasts ... errr ... little angels I mean <=
G>
=2E..... I should offer my condolences since life as you knew it will
cease on the birth of the child ... you'll see <smile>.  BTW, whats
wrong with 'Robert' as a first name?   LOL  Sorry these congratulatio=
ns
are late, I was away, and then not in the mood for correspondence (lo=
ng
story that doesn't need telling here).



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X-Path: aol.com!LMCCDC
From: LMCCDC@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: bathroom window
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 10:42:56 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


I know this question has been asked before but for some reason I missed the 
responses. So, sorry for the duplication.  I am going to do a window in a 
bathroom that is over a bathtub that also has a shower in it.  How do I 
protect the leaded glass?  Thanks, Lisa MC
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 10:31:19 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Awbaxter
From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: putty - mineral spirits vs. turpentine
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:14:50 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I know we've discussed the various components of putty recipes, inlcuding 
whiting (vs. cement vs. plaster of paris),  linseed oil (boiled vs. raw) and 
lamp black, but I would like to know the difference in the quality of the 
putty when the mixture has either mineral spirits or turps added to it.  I am 
not refering the dangers of the flammable material or the inhalation of it... 
more to the point of the effectiveness of the putty itself.  Does one cause 
the putty to harden faster?  or harder? Clean up easier? Are they 
interchangeable?  Does it matter at all?  

Hope this is not redundant... I've read months of archives on putty, and 
didn't see this, and could not answer it myself when asked.  (I hate it when 
that happens!)

Thanks. 
Ann
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 11:30:10 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: In your face, crap
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:02:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Oh, good!  Here we go again....
all the bozos who can't contribute to
a glass conversation are going to jump
on the band wagon now and start a =

flame fest.  <sigh> Can't you contribute
something meaningful?... Like holding
up your end of the conversation???
Pertaining to glass, that is! :-(

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 11:30:23 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "rrk" <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Intolerance?  B...S...!
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:04:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Intolerant?  Bull!

All I suggested was a *neutral* ground we could all agree on.  You are
EXACTLY the type of person who should be reigned in, in my honest
*opinion*, of course.

Just who do you think you are anyway?  Who ever made you judge and jury
concerning 'netiquette'?  You are a jerk.

I just might be "intolerant", that is I'm very "intolerant" of b...s...
like yours.  I hate it when people "just like you" (do you know Linda
Tripp?  I'm sure you do) think they are created God's and love
themselves too dearly to even give a damn about how other people feel.

Intolerant?  Yeah, YOU take the first prize, Bud!

Tom in NC - close to Billy G, of course you know him, too, right?

----- Original Message -----
From: "rrk" <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: Intolerance


:
: Hi folks,
:
: It is elementary netiquette that a person's signature file, no matter
: what is in it (other than profanity and/or vulgar language), is not
: considered to be part of the email and not to be responded to.  Anybo=
: dy
: can put anything they want in their signature file =85 and its OK bec=
: ause
: the signature file automatically appended to every email prepared by =
: the
: person is NOT a part of the email.
:
: It is also elementary netiquette that off-topic discussions
: (particularly those involving politics or religion) are to take place
: OFF-THE-LIST.
:
: These two points do not seem clear to everyone so I'm spelling it out=
:  in
: an unambiguous (I hope) manner.
:
: Here in the USA, yesterday was a holiday, the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther
: King, Jr.'s birthday.  This man was one of the many great people this
: country has produced.  Without doubt he was the single most influenti=
: al
: Christian of the 20th Century, certainly in this part of the world he
: was.  Many people either overlook or conveniently forget that Dr. Kin=
: g
: was, before everything else, a man of faith, a man of the cloth, and =
: a
: follower of Jesus of Nazareth.  It was for the application of his fai=
: th
: to one of the USA's major societal problems that he is remembered and
: honored once a year on his birthday.
:
: Yesterday both Tom from North Carolina and Howard provided excellent
: examples of intolerance.  The religious intolerance demonstrated by T=
: om
: and Howard was clear-cut and unambiguous.  I would like to thank both=
:  of
: them for providing us with this excellent example of intolerance so
: demonstrative of just how far we still have to go.  This poignant
: example was most timely coming as it did on Dr. King's birthday.
:
: Both Tom and Howard otherwise seem to be good men, eager to please, a=
: nd
: very helpful ... I guess we all have our moments eh?  <G>
:
: Now =85 could we please kindly get back to the main topic of this lis=
: t =85
: glass?
:
: Best regards to all =85=85=85. Bob Kerr
:
: PS ... Congratulations to the both of you, Glenna and Dave.  Actually=
: ,
: having had 4 of the little beasts ... errr ... little angels I mean <=
: G>
: =2E..... I should offer my condolences since life as you knew it will
: cease on the birth of the child ... you'll see <smile>.  BTW, whats
: wrong with 'Robert' as a first name?   LOL  Sorry these congratulatio=
: ns
: are late, I was away, and then not in the mood for correspondence (lo=
: ng
: story that doesn't need telling here).
:
:
:
: ----
: For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 12:30:21 2000
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From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your Face
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:57:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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You Said it well Dani...Thanks. If you don't like the "crap", don't read
it..or do as I do..just keep moving on..Let's hear more about glass
please.Sharon in SC
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 13:30:50 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your Face
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:06:46 -0500
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Sharon Milliken wrote:
> 
> You Said it well Dani...Thanks. If you don't like the "crap", 

I, for one, don't like this language, for or against.

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 14:01:54 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com
Subject: Re: bathroom window
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:21:42 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Internal secondary glazing seems to be a good idea.  It needs to be
safety glass, as it is in a dangerous room (lots of accidents in
bathrooms).  The glazing should be ventilated to avoid condensation.

Alternatively, get a local double glazing firm to encase the leaded
window in a double glazed unit.  Take their advice on the kinds of
cement used, as some units do not like linseed oil.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, LMCCDC@aol.com writes
>
>I know this question has been asked before but for some reason I missed the 
>responses. So, sorry for the duplication.  I am going to do a window in a 
>bathroom that is over a bathtub that also has a shower in it.  How do I 
>protect the leaded glass?  Thanks, Lisa MC
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 14:04:27 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Awbaxter@aol.com
Subject: Re: putty - mineral spirits vs. turpentine
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:33:59 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I'll give you my opinion.
        Do not use plaster of Paris ever.
        Do not use raw linseed oil.  Boiled linseed oil (actually
refined, as it is never boiled) has the elements which do not make
polymer chains removed.  Raw linseed oil takes a very very long time to
cure and stiffen.
        I experimented once by eliminating the mineral spirits and using
only linseed oil.  The resulting cement looked like the regular stuff,
it flowed like the regular stuff, but it took a tremendous amount of
whiting to "dry" it, and it took very long to set.
        So, I recommend that you avoid adding any oily substances (like
turpentine) to the cement, as the evaporation rate is so much slower
than the spirit.  The other side to this is that the cement hardens in
the bucket much quicker too.
        The setting or curing of the cement is not to achieve a
hardness.  If we wanted that we would include plaster of Paris.  The
point is to get a stiff, waterproof, long lasting substance into the
calme which will cushion the glass by remaining slightly flexible for a
long number of years.  Linseed oil cement has been proved over
centuries.  Rubber sealants do not have the same lengthy testing period,
they are much more difficult to clean, etc.

Hope this meets some of the queries.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Awbaxter@aol.com writes
>I know we've discussed the various components of putty recipes, inlcuding 
>whiting (vs. cement vs. plaster of paris),  linseed oil (boiled vs. raw) and 
>lamp black, but I would like to know the difference in the quality of the 
>putty when the mixture has either mineral spirits or turps added to it.  I am 
>not refering the dangers of the flammable material or the inhalation of it... 
>more to the point of the effectiveness of the putty itself.  Does one cause 
>the putty to harden faster?  or harder? Clean up easier? Are they 
>interchangeable?  Does it matter at all?  

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:24:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have a sidelight by the front door that I'm dying to do something with.
Right now it's that lovely amber flemish(?) glass--and it needs to go.
However, I'm stumped on design ideas.

The size is bad--it's about 48" high, but only 7 1/2" wide. That seems too
narrow to be able to do much with.

I need to use something besides a bevel cluster because of privacy. (If I
could just get the hubby to keep his darn clothes on... not to mention the
times we check to see who's at the door and then pretend to not be home...)

We just redecorated the house in bright colors and a Caribbean motif--I'd
love something with birds of paradise or something like that, but it's so
narrow..

Anyone have any ideas on how to use that odd shaped space and still get
color and privacy?

Shari in SLC



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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 15:31:35 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>,
Subject: Re: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:25:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC45261F0@exphx.az.stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Charlie--I like the concept. What would you use for background glass, seeing
as how I can't use clear...?
Shari



> vines with hibiscus flowers.
>
> i made something similar for someone. it was vines with blue and red
trumpet
> flowers, with hummingbirds drinking from some of the flowers.
>



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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 15:34:53 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 18:16:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by "Shari"
>Anyone have any ideas on how to use that odd shaped space and still get
color and privacy?
<

Opalescent glass and a narrow view of the =

sea, a sunset, and perhaps a palm tree?
Or a boat?  Or maybe just a vine of tropical
foliage? Are there decorative motifs peculiar
to the Caribbean that could be incorporated?
Or some pattern that is used somewhere else
in your house that could be adapted to S.G.?
Just a few thoughts....

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re:in your face.
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 18:19:25 -0500
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I guess I have to apologize and explain to everyone that the offensive
word was not mine to begin with and I put it in Quotations for that very
reason. This is getting to be quite maddening to the point that I do not
enjoy nor have the time for this type of banter.
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re:in your face.
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:19:59 -0500
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Message text written by Sharon Milliken
>This is getting to be quite maddening to the point that I do not
enjoy nor have the time for this type of banter.<

Not to mention that the administrator has shut
down the list in the past for precisely this type =

of "banter"... let's put it to rest and talk about
glass, please.... or something potentially related
like art, design, colors, history, creativity, etc.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/  =

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 17:00:48 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Sharon Milliken" <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: In your Face
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 18:51:18 -0500
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I'll drink to that, Sharon!  (Can I say that at least without being
pelted by the bible thumpers?)

I've never read nor heard from most of the very few and far between that
got their undies in a wad over "in your face" posts.  Those few people
really need to get a life.  Perhaps they should hang their hats
elsewhere as most of them don't even contribute to any stained glass
discussions, or they are just nosey and are hoping that somehow their
lives will be enriched by 'watching' others communicate about the arts
and stained glass in particular.

For any true artist, the simple word "crap" should not even raise an
eyebrow.  Surely they've seen amateurish "crap" that was being sold as
"art" before.  Or, maybe they've done 'crappy' work themselves that they
considered "art" and someone once told them that their work was "crap".
I know "crap" when I see it and I'm sure there are plenty of others who
do, too.

The complainers of the my use of the word "crap" must lead pitiful
lives, never watch anything that might mentally engaging or God forbid
stimulating.  There's another word that should tick some more of the
self imposed upper echelon of the artist society, "stimulating".
hahahaha!

I do know that lots of the art I've seen and really admired, also
"stimulated" me in lots of ways! ;)

Tom - in NC who had only a few private nasty posts from those that must
live under the same rock, out of the mainstream of life.  What a
"crappy" existence and sheltered life they must lead if the simple word
"crap" offends them.  Maybe I should have used a stronger word they
wouldn't have any trouble understanding?  Next time.


From: "Sharon Milliken" <wwstamps@home.com>

: You Said it well Dani...Thanks. If you don't like the "crap", don't
read
: it..or do as I do..just keep moving on..Let's hear more about glass
: please.Sharon in SC


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 18:00:35 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: 3rd try or Morse Museum
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 20:37:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk


3rd try

I installed a bunch of programs over the last 2 weeks while I was brain
dead from the flu/pneumonia/whatever.  I suspect Adobe's upgrade to
Adobe Type Manager because even the screen font doesn't look right -
looks like a bad typewriter - good for a murder solving but not the
eyes.  Thanks to those of you who gave me feedback.

2nd try - came up partially blank (and I never received it back from
Bunji at all)
I have no idea why this came up as empty. Hoping for better luck this
time. - Cec
1st try - came up blank
Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

 Umm - hey people - It's January, we're none of us getting enough light,
it's cold and windy, we've all got the  flu, and February is coming and
it's probably even more dreary than January. So can we all take it
somewhat  easy on each other?

 I finally got to see the Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).
Long drive from Sarasota (2 hrs on  interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).
But it was worth it. Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing
collection of Tiffany. Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available for
seeing. But I grabbed a docent and  she took me about, and I plied her
with a multitude of questions, some of which she could answer, and some
not. They now have a little publication on Tiffany available only for
the staff (written by McKean) - let us  hope they make it available for
the rest of us. They also have a number of paintings and sketches by
Tiffany,  a little of the jewelry, and quite a bit of the blown glass.
The museum is also concentrated on the Arts and  Crafts period, with
some fine pottery and glass and a tiny bit of furnature.

 It was interesting to see how a piece started with a fine finished
drawing/painting - a finished work of art in  itself, and then see how
he/they had reduced it and simplified it so it would work for stained
glass. It was  also interesting to see how 3-D many of the things were.
Oh, I knew about the layering, but you don't realize  from photos that
he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular ones, tiny ones and blobs
of all sizes. And he has  faceted them by beating or hammering, as
though they were dalle de verre. He either cast or slumped lots of
pieces into jewels and other shapes and then incorporated those - not
just in the lamps.

 He also did a lot of 3-D with the solder or lead lines - the way he has
used the came-on-came in the eggplant  panel is wonderful and really
gives that ridged effect of the stalks. Some of the windows were
traditionally  reinforced, but some had came or reinforcement set on
edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part of  the 3-D design as
well as reinforcing the piece.

 He also had bowed some circular places. Unfortunately, kinda like Frank
Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a  bit more than he should have. The
docent volunteered that the La Farge totally lacks these 3-D effects.

 The "chapel" done for the Chicago Exposition was impressive, although I
guess I expected more, but I guess it  too had been in the fire that
originally allowed the Morse to have the stuff. The whole thing has
been  re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and there was an enormous amount of
restoration that had to be done. My, I  wish the guy that headed the
restoration would write a book with all the details he has learned about
how  things were done.

 Elisabeth - I remember you commenting about the cold painting (faces,
hands, etc.) on the one window. The  docent pointed that out and said it
was very common, expecially in European stained glass at the time.
Americans were more apt to fire their painting, she said. (Don't know
what her source for that was, so can't  tell if it was accurate or not.)

 I particularly took note of the glass itself, since he(they) made it to
spec - want red/green for swiss chard?  make some. Want pine needles?
Throw some black streamers on and fuse. Want interesting water ? Fuse
some flakes. I didn't notice any of the thick dense opalescent often
used in the Victorian type of church/house  windows. His glass mostly
was medium when he wanted opacity, and medium/dense at it's most opaque.
But  I didn't think he used opaque much, other than when he wanted white
as a color. The docent noted he often  used silver or gold foil backing
to the glass - particularly that used for mosaic work, but that for the
"chapel" he  actually used aluminium - cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and
anything gold was painted, again as a cost  measure.

 He also incorporated river stones, and sliced, colored and polished
marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes  used some kind of mastic or
morter to hold them in pattern). There is a name for such marble work,
but it  escapes me.

 Instead of opalescent, he layered. I was particularly interested in how
he/they did it. I didn't know if he just  layed one piece on top of
another and simply soldered at any join, but the docent said that all
the layered  pieces were foiled to the ones on top or below. Not that
there was a one-for-one correlation, but at some edge  a whole layer
would be completely foiled to that above or below.

 Color art photos are wonderful, as are posters, but until you get right
up next to the that glass you cannot  imagine how subtle and fantastic
his use of color was.

 The shop was very nice with a good selection of books on Tiffany, and
the arts and crafts period. There is a  fine book on Tiffany works no
longer available (The Lost Tiffany by McKean) but it was $100, so
somehow I  didn't buy it.

 Are there any books on his studio, the people working for him, etc? How
nice he had daddy's money to help  set things up so he could afford to
investigate all the various properties of glass and metalwork, but, my,
he  had a large streak of curiosity to go along with towering talent.

 Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend your going out of your way to
see it. Incidentally, across the  street is a church with more dalle de
verre than I'd ever seen in one place. Very well done, and you can walk
into the narthex/foyer, and see some of it right up close.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 19:00:44 2000
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:56:41 EST
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I received this little joke thing just today... It sort of fits, so i thought 
i'd pass it along.  
(just for the record.  I belive in God.. Believe in Christ His son, and I 
don't like those messages, either.)
Anne

> 
>  A blonde is pushed into a gas station in her new BMW.
>  The mechanic asks, "What's the matter?" 
>  She says, "It just conked out."
>  After he works on it for a few minutes, it's purring like a kitten. 
>  She says, "What's the story?"
>  He says, "Crap in the carburetor." 
>  She says, "How often do I have to do that?"


--part1_9.11073c0.25b681e9_boundary
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Return-path: Burke2325@aol.com
From: Burke2325@aol.com
Full-name: Burke2325
Message-ID: <60.69e425.25b628e2@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:36:50 EST
Subject: Misc. Humor
To: Krisdave3@aol.com, jeburke@stthomas.edu, mvb@tcinternet.net,
	tburke@corvis.com, THOSBURKE@aol.com, bobvano@glccomputers.com,
	bdavid@citrus.in, SFer719408@aol.com, Laurence.M.Burke@Travelers.com,
	LBURKE6652@cs.com, peter.w.burke@am.pnu.com, REGSW@aol.com,
	Kimshee97@aol.com, MATRONA@aol.com, <ncarter1@ix.netcom.com>,
	<gloria.culp@wmich.edu>(work), G0blet@cs.com,
	<kenneth.reid@wmich.edu>, jessicakim<jkim@umbc.edu>,
	<wright@peabody.jhu.edu>, <treash1028@the-i.net>,
	Kropp<thoran@hkg.net>, SportsJMP@aol.com,
	<anne.f.vosters@am.pnu.com>, <william.s.gladstone@am.pnu.com>,
	<steven.k.macleod@am.pnu.com>, <jeffrey.a.fleming@am.pnu.com>,
	<suemusic@prodigy.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 45

A blonde is pushed into a gas station in her new BMW.
The mechanic asks, "What's the matter?" 
She says, "It just conked out."
After he works on it for a few minutes, it's purring like a kitten. 
She says, "What's the story?"
He says, "Crap in the carburetor." 
She says, "How often do I have to do that?"
******************************************************************************
********************
"If I had been present at creation, I would have given some useful hints." - 
Alfonso the Wise (1221-1284)
******************************************************************************
********************
The following is an excerpt from the July 1943 issue of Transportation  
Magazine.  This was serious and written for male supervisors of women in the 
work force during World War II - a mere 56 years ago!
  
Obviously, the intent was not to be "funny," but by today's standards, this 
is hilarious! For those of you with efficiency issues, pay attention to #8.
  
Eleven Tips on Getting More Efficiency Out of Women Employees: 
  
There's no longer any question whether transit companies should hire women 
for jobs formerly held by men. The draft and manpower shortage has settled 
that point.  The important things now are to select the most efficient women 
available and how to use them to the best advantage.
  
Here are eleven helpful tips on the subject from Western Properties:
  
1. Pick young married women. They usually have more of a sense of  
responsibility than their unmarried sisters,  they're less likely to be 
flirtatious, they need the work or they wouldn't be doing it, they still have 
the pep and interest to work hard and to deal with the public efficiently.
2. When you have to use older women, try to get ones who have worked outside 
the home at some time in their lives. Older women who have never contacted 
the public have a hard time adapting themselves and are inclined to be 
cantankerous and fussy.  It's always well to impress upon older women the 
importance of friendliness and courtesy.
3. General experience indicates that "husky" girls - those who are just a 
little on the heavy side - are more even tempered and efficient than their 
underweight sisters.
4. Retain a physician to give each woman you hire a special physical 
examination - one covering female conditions. This step not only protects the 
property against the possibilities of lawsuit, but reveals whether the 
employee-to-be has any female weaknesses which would make her mentally or 
physically unfit for the job.
5. Stress at the outset the importance of time the fact that a minute or two 
lost here and there makes serious inroads on schedules. Until this point is 
gotten across, service is likely to be slowed up.
6. Give the female employee a definite day-long schedule of duties so that 
they'll keep busy without bothering the management for instructions every few 
minutes.  Numerous properties say that women make excellent workers when they 
have their jobs cut out for them, but that they lack initiative in finding 
work themselves.
7. Whenever possible, let the inside employee change from one job to another 
at some  time during the day.  Women are inclined to be less nervous and 
happier with change.
8. Give every girl an adequate number of rest periods during the day.  You 
have to make some allowances for feminine psychology.  A girl has more 
confidence and is more efficient if she can keep her hair tidied, apply fresh 
lipstick and wash her hands several times a day.
9. Be tactful when issuing instructions or in making criticisms.  Women  are 
often sensitive; they can't shrug off harsh words the way men do.  Never 
ridicule a woman - it breaks her spirit and cuts off her efficiency.
10. Be reasonably considerate about using strong language around women.  Even 
though a girl's husband or father may swear  vociferously, she'll grow to 
dislike a place of business where she  hears too much of this.
11. Get enough size variety in operator's uniforms so that each girl can have 
a proper fit. This point can't be stressed too much in  keeping women happy.
******************************************************************************
********************
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits."    
Unknown
******************************************************************************
********************
Thoughts for today:
They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken.  
The Dark Ages Was Caused by the Y1K problem. 
What happens if you get scared half to death twice? 
Am I ambivalent?   Well, yes and no.
If you think there is good in everybody then you obviously haven't met 
everybody.
If your feet smell and your nose runs, you're built upside down.
Gargling is a good way to see if your throat leaks.
Suicidal twin kills sister by mistake.
Failure Is Not An Option. It's bundled with your software. 
If a thing is worth doing wouldn't it have been done already? 
Ham and Eggs. Just a day's work for a chicken but a lifetime commitment for a 
pig.
******************************************************************************
********************
"This poem will never reach its destination."  Voltaire (1694-1778) on 
Rousseau's Ode to Posterity
******************************************************************************
********************




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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 22:02:35 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: 3rd try or blank messages [ng]
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 00:51:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

OK - let me propose some ideas and let's see if we can narrow down why
we are constantly having this problem (which doesn't happen on the other
lists I belong to).

For one thing - I use the latest Netscape, and yet I could not read the
first message except for the header, and I didn't even GET the 2nd.  So
I think whatever happens is somehow influenced by either the Bungi
server, or by Bungi's ISP's software, since I never see this on other
lists.  (After two weeks out sick, I downloaded 1,445 emails at work
into Netscape on a Mac and not one had that problem - that is from about
8 technical listservs.)

1st try:

The font showing for my message was not good - odd spacing, ugly and I
think one of the new software packages is either having an init
conflict, a font conflict, or just jimmied my Netscape settings.  While
I was writing the message, I was fiddling around with fonts, etc.,
trying to get it to look right.  I rarely do that on the KISS principal
- keep it simple stupid.  Although I send in both text and html, unless
I'm sending to someone on a Mac with html capabilities (my mother), I
don't use the html editing much.  For a similar reason, I do not use
MIME since very few older mail programs, or programs on main frames and
minis can handle it.  So...does Bungi not like html, except for linking?
(HTML is the HyperText Markup Language that turned the internet into the
web - with the ability to link from one place in a document to another,
or link from one document to another document - anywhere.)  More
questions - if so, why didn't Netscape also send a text version, since
that is how it is set up? Or why didn't Bungi receive/recognize the text
version if Netscape sent it?

2nd try:

When I got the blank message, I went into Sent Mail, and forwarded my
copy of the original mailing - with the brief explanation at the top.
Thus, any fiddling with text editing in HTML would still have been
embedded in the message.  BUT WHY DIDN'T I GET THAT MESSAGE AT ALL?

3rd try:

I copied the text from the Sent Mail version, pasted it into a word
processor, and changed it to a readable font.  I also went into the
Netscape Prefs and chose a similar but more readable default font.  Then
I copied and pasted into Netscape my word processor document.  Then I
sent that.  The problem went away.

Further thoughts - rarely in Bungi, but often in the other lists, I will
get a *word* or =52 some other =25 wierdity.  I don't think those are
mime characters, but I do think they are a type of html.  People using
more advanced html (I forget what it is called), maybe using Eudora,
seem to generate these kinds of problems for me, but I can cause that
kind of problem with people using older versions of Netscape or Outlook
Express when I send only in html.  This leads me to conclude that there
is an anomaly in Bungi's handling of html.

However, it should also be a lesson to us all to make our email as
simplistic as possible, with no changing of fonts, no coloring text, no
special inserted ASCII characters, no html, etc.

So - do I have something here, or not?

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 22:33:24 2000
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From: Shirley <sparent@kootenay.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Need help with first lamp
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:30:17 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I have just finished my first lamp and though I have a lot, and I mean a
lot to learn it is definitely passable for a first try.  I live in a small
town without access to classes so am self taught from books and can't
always find the answers to questions I have so thought maybe some of you
might be able to help me.  The first question I have is on tinning the vase
caps.  This lamp called for a 6" one and I had a lot of trouble given the
heat sink problem.  The books all tell me to use my soldering iron though I
couldn't seem to generate enough heat to get a smooth finish.  I am using a
Weller 100.
The second question I have is about the wire reinforcement around the
bottom edge.  Exactly what purpose does this serve and how important is it
that you put it on and what is the best gauge of wire to use?
As an aside I just want to tell you Cecily and Ralph how much I enjoyed
your Morse Museum piece.  My girlfriend who is an avid potter and always
lurking through the second hand book stores found "The Lost Treasures of
Louis Comfort Tiffany" by Hugh McLean and gave it to me for Christmas in
'98.  It has become a treasured possession and I can spend hours pouring
over it and would love to one day be able to see some of works of the
Tiffany Studios.  We don't own too much of it in rural British Columbia.  
Thanks in advance

Shirley

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 22:35:24 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Signatures [ng]
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 01:18:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I rarely see signatures on Bungi messages, but they are endemic on the
technical lists.  An example of a signature is the asterisks and my
husband's and my name, etc. at the end of our messages.  I suspect many
non technical people don't even know they have that capability.  I don't
sit here and type ****** every time.  You create a tiny file that is
just the signature, and then you tell your email package to use that at
the bottom of your messages.  Netscape only allows one, but eMailer
allowed me to have more than one and specify which one would be the
default signature and which ones were to be used for certain addresses.
Some also allow you to have a number of signatures and it randomly
selects which ones get sent.

People with the latter capability load it up with funny sayings, usually
aphorisms.  Others often put something that reflects who they are (or
wannabe), and even those who put funny sayings on are defining
themselves.  In my case, we had to put something there that both my
husband and I weren't embarrassed about.

Over the years, I have created a pretty hefty document I call "Funny
Ends" in which I copy those signatures that tickle me.  I also started a
list of the ones that irk me, but since I didn't think they were worth
saving, it's a pretty tiny list.

Some people use fixed width fonts to create text pictures - a kind of
"Leroy was here".  (Aw - you're all too young to know what that is,
aren't you?)  However that only looks good for people who don't use
proportional type and most of use do use it.

I know of no list that prohibits signatures, although I do know that the
listmoms have asked certain people to change their signatures.  In most
instances, though, it has been the length of the signature, padding the
messages, that triggered such behavior, not content.  However, most
lists also have certain words that are prohibited.  Normally such things
as swear words, some of the Anglo Saxen body functions, etc. are usually
off limits.  However, on the Mac-List the word "virus" is actually
prohibited.  This filters out the enormous load of hysterical
the-sky-is-falling virus hoax mail.  Those of us on the list know to
write *virus* for serious discussions.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 00:46:29 2000
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From: "D&K JANSEN" <jansen1@the-beach.net>
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 03:12:55 -0500
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   =20
one day i'm on and the next i'm not!  can you tell me why and help me =
get back?

kate

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>one day i'm on and the next i'm not!&nbsp; can you =
tell me why=20
and help me get back?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>kate</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 04:02:20 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Need help with first lamp
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 06:53:04 EST
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Tinning the vase cap is a tedious process.  You have to first lay the 
soldering iron on the cap and heat it, then take a small dab of solder and 
spread it as thinly as possible so there are no bumps.  When you think you 
have spread it far enough, go back and spread it some more.  1/4 inch of 
solder should be plenty for a 6 inch vase cap.    And then when you solder it 
to the lamp you will sometimes get bumps anyway.  I think it was Joe Porcelli 
at Glass Visions who said you don't need to tin the vase cap at all.  I 
haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense since brass takes patina better than 
solder.  There's also a product that is a mixture of solder and flux that you 
paint on and then run the soldering iron over it.  It works pretty well and 
is a lot faster.

Just received the signature line below in an ebay buyer's email.  Quite 
appropriate at this time.....

Brenda Marhon

"For those who do not think, it is best at least 
to rearrange their prejudices once in a while"
                      Luther Burbank (1849-1926)  
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 04:08:49 2000
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Hi Shirley,
We use number 10 wire around the bottom of our lamps.  Have you tried  =
to talke 0000 steel wool to clean your vase cap real good I mean real =
good & then patina it. Shake it good & heat your patina up to get it =
warm & put it on your vase cap with a clean sponge let it set for about =
10 minutes & rinse it  with cold water do not rub it & only pat it dry. =
(Novacan patina) See if this will work for you.  Hope this helps you =
out.
Mary & Arkie

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi Shirley,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>We use number 10 wire around the bottom of =
our=20
lamps.&nbsp; Have you tried&nbsp; to talke 0000 steel wool to clean your =
vase=20
cap real good I mean real good &amp; then patina it. Shake it good &amp; =
heat=20
your patina up to get it warm &amp; put it on your vase cap with a clean =
sponge=20
let it set for about 10 minutes &amp; rinse it&nbsp; with cold water do =
not rub=20
it &amp; only pat it dry. (Novacan patina) See if this will work for =
you.&nbsp;=20
Hope this helps you out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mary &amp; Arkie</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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hello,
could someone please tell me, what company sales this glass. 
                                     
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In a message dated 1/19/00 7:02:49 AM, BMarhon@aol.com writes:

>Tinning the vase cap is a tedious process.

Not if you have a propane torch - put the cap on a fireproof surface, heat it 
carefully, apply a little solder, and use the flame to spread the solder 
around. Not my idea - I first saw Christie do it. Works great!


Sparks 
    certified pyromaniac who always tries to play with fire safely
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:00:46 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:49:54 -0500
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Message text written by Shirley
>The second question I have is about the wire reinforcement around the
bottom edge.  Exactly what purpose does this serve and how important is i=
t
that you put it on and what is the best gauge of wire to use?<

Wire reinforcement around the bottom edge helps keep the lampshade
from pulling itself apart (i.e. copper foil tape ripping in a vulnerable
point),
and it also gives the lampshade's bottom a very finished, nicely round
edge.  It covers any gaps and/or differences in glass levels between
pieces.

As to the gauge - I can only purchase one gauge here, 18.  It works well.=


Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:01:42 2000
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:49:41 -0500
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Message text written by "Shari"
>I have a sidelight by the front door that I'm dying to do something with=

From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:25:46 2000
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Message text written by Shirley
>The first question I have is on tinning the vase
caps.  This lamp called for a 6" one and I had a lot of trouble given the=

heat sink problem.  The books all tell me to use my soldering iron though=
 I
couldn't seem to generate enough heat to get a smooth finish.  I am using=
 a
Weller 100.<

Here's a trick I learned from bungi about tinning a cap - buy
yourself a little torch, place the cap on top of a non-flamible
surface, and torch it!  When it gets hot, the solder will flow very
freely over the cap and it's much quicker than the iron method.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:30:26 2000
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:03:08 -0500
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Hi, 
I'm fairly new to stained glass, but I LOVE it.  My question is very basic.
Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.  I read yesterday that
putting a wet towel underneath the glass when doing the backside works, but
I haven't tried it yet.  Are there any other methods that you all use that
work?

  Donna Becker
 df125031@ncr.com

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 10:00:40 2000
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Donna--

Taking pains to make sure your glass fits well (reducing gaps) 
helps.  And keep your iron moving (or turn down the heat) if you're 
getting melt-throughs....

Kaye
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 10:36:57 2000
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Howdy Folks!

I'm about to start work on a fan shaped transom for over my front door. The 
design  I've drawn out coordinates with 3 square windows that I've already 
done for my dining room area. 
In this design, I would have to use a 3x5" diamond shaped bevel that has been 
cut in 1/2, top to bottom. I've never cut a bevel before. Is this possible? 
What's the best way to do it?

Thanks!
Susan
Alabama
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 10:37:32 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:22:27 -0500
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Message text written by "Becker, Donna"
>Are there any other methods that you all use that
work?<

Practice! ;-D

Best,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/  =

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Please remove me from the list, Glenna.
Thanks ~ Dani

Message text written by "Tom"
>I'll drink to that, Sharon!  (Can I say that at least without being
pelted by the bible thumpers?)

I've never read nor heard from most of the very few and far between that
got their undies in a wad over "in your face" posts.  Those few people
really need to get a life.  Perhaps they should hang their hats
elsewhere as most of them don't even contribute to any stained glass
discussions, or they are just nosey and are hoping that somehow their
lives will be enriched by 'watching' others communicate about the arts
and stained glass in particular.

For any true artist, the simple word "crap" should not even raise an
eyebrow.  Surely they've seen amateurish "crap" that was being sold as
"art" before.  Or, maybe they've done 'crappy' work themselves that they
considered "art" and someone once told them that their work was "crap".
I know "crap" when I see it and I'm sure there are plenty of others who
do, too.

The complainers of the my use of the word "crap" must lead pitiful
lives, never watch anything that might mentally engaging or God forbid
stimulating.  There's another word that should tick some more of the
self imposed upper echelon of the artist society, "stimulating".
hahahaha!

I do know that lots of the art I've seen and really admired, also
"stimulated" me in lots of ways! ;)

Tom - in NC who had only a few private nasty posts from those that must
live under the same rock, out of the mainstream of life.  What a
"crappy" existence and sheltered life they must lead if the simple word
"crap" offends them.  Maybe I should have used a stronger word they
wouldn't have any trouble understanding?  Next time.

<

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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:59:49 EST
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Thanks very much for recounting your observations at the Morse Museum. It epitomized the purpose of this list. Your account stimulated ideas for materials and techniques in my future glass designs and projects. Thanks for letting me get a glimpse through your eyes. 
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 11:37:00 2000
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From: Elizabeth Arakelian <glshorse@ior.com>
To: Tom <thomm@vnet.net>
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Subject: Re: In your face *double standard*?  Really?
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:17:50 -0800
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Tom wrote:
> 
> Double standard?  From or by whom, pray tell?
> 
> Tom
> 
>
a double standard in that no one complains about all manner of quotes
that people have pasted after their names and like I said, someone had
not just a quote, but a link to her wiccan website (which did NOT offend
me...OK...I am just pointing this out by way of contrast of reactions)
and there was nary a comment. But someone puts a bible quote up...for no
doubt the same reasons that people put up quotes from their favorite
writers, philosophers and what have you and there is any outcry about
being "in your face"...why is not a link to a wiccan website considered 
"in your face" or a quote from Emerson or some zen master or whoever
else it is people care to quote considered "in your face"...but heaven
forbid...a bible quote...THAT is "in your face"...thats what I mean by
"double standard"


Liz
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From: "Mary" <embee@mediaone.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: NG
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 14:36:37 -0500
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This last brouhaha over a scripture being used in a signature was my swan
song, so to speak.
When I constantly face horrible  insults such as trash television, filthy
songs and books and the offering in Brooklyn Museum (to name a very few) all
in the name of "Freedom of Expression", it truly offends me to hear and read
someone's  indignation by the use of Scripture.
Please unsubscribe me.
Thank you,
Mary Barry



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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 13:12:26 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Off the list
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:02:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I have been inundated with mail
about unsubscribing!  Just to let you
know, I'm not upset, but after all these
years on bungi there just isn't much new
for me anymore... and, frankly, it was one
silly flamefest too many.  And, when I see
names popping up that never contribute
much to a glass discussion... ack... So if
you have a glass question, come visit me
when I'm doing Martha Stewart Living Online
Blue Ribbon expert duty!  Go to Martha's
website and into the Crafts section.... I'm on
duty Tuesdays and Wednesdays.  See you
there!!  P.S. I could use some REAL S.G.
questions! =


Best to all! ;-))

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 14:30:59 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Offinger Mgmt Co. Trade Shows press release
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:16:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following trade shows managed by Offinger
Management Co. are coming up.  For more information,
contact them at:
        1100-H Brandywine Blvd
        P.O. Box 3388
        Zanesville, OH USA 43702-3388
        phone 740-452-4541  fax 740-452-2552
        email: omc.info@offinger.com
        web: www.offinger.com

IGGA does not endorse OMC or any of their trade shows.
This is simply passing along a press release.

Central Environmental Nursery Trad Show "CENTS" & Short Course
  24-26 Jan 2000
  Columbus Convention Center, Columbus, OH
  Trade only; exhibits & classes
  1,073 exhibits, 11,901 total registered attendance

144th Ohio State Gift Show
  Offinger's handcrafted Marketplace
  19-20 March 2000
  Veterans Memorial Building, Columbus, OH
  Trade only; 200 exhibits, 2,500 buyers, 2,900 total attendance

Bead & Button Show
  (Bead & Button magazine)
  1-4 June 2000
  Portland Convention Center, Portland, OR
  Public show; exhibits & classes
  175 exhibits, 3,500 total attendance

Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplace
  3-4 June 2000
  Kansas City Market Center, Kansas City, MO
  Trade only
  100 exhibits, 2,000 buyers, 2,200 total attendance

Association of Crafts & Creative Industries (ACCI) Show
  The Craft and Creative Marketplace
  28-30 July 2000
  Rosemont Convention Center, Rosemont (Chicago), IL
  Trade only.  Exhibits & classes
  1,600 exhibits, 5,000 buyers, 9.000 total attendance

Int'l Art Glass Suppliers Trade Show (AGSA)
  28-30 July 2000
  Rosemont Convention Center, Rosemont (Chicago), IL
  Trade only.  Exhibits & classes
  200 exhibits, 1,500 buyers, 1,600 total attendance

145th Ohio State Gift Show
  19-20 August 2000
  Veterans Memorial Building, Columbus, OH
  Trade only
  250 exhibits, 2,700 buyers, 3,200 total attendance

Society of Craft Designers Educational Seminar
  4-7 October 2000
  Hyatt Regency Minneapolis on Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis, MN
  Mfg/Designer showcases & education
  150 tabletop exhibits, 250 total attendance

Glass Show 2000 (Connecticut, Massachusetts & Rhode Island Glass Dealers
Associations)
  3-4 November 2000
  Atlantic City Convention Center, Atlantic City, NJ
  Trade only.  exhibits & classes
  120 exhibits, 1,200 buyers, 1,400 total attendance

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:28:48 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/19/00 11:31:24 AM, DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com 
writes:

>Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
>messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.

Sounds like one of 2 things. Either you're running your iron *way* too hot 
(bet nobody thought they'd ever hear "that li'l ol' solder-boiler, me" say a 
thing like that, huh?) or you're touching up the same spots repeatedly 
without giving them time to cool in between passes.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 15:58:36 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:38:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by "Shari"
>I rec'd this post today on Bungi, but it seems to be lacking the "meat" =
of
what you were going to say... Dare I ask what else the post said, besides=

this little that I rec'd?!<

Man, I saw that too.  Bummer.  I had a nice, long reply to you about the
sidelight, which seems to have gone into the computer la la land somewher=
e.

Anyway...7 1/2" wide is plenty of good space for nice verticle design wor=
k.
I do sidelights all the time and it's amazing what you can get into that
space
with some imagination.  Since you mentioned you liked tropical scenes,
may I suggest some tropical tree branches running at angles up through
the sidelight.  Leaves and flowers gracefully dropping down.  And maybe
a small parrot or macaw perched on one of the tree branches, with its
lovely tail feathers draping down.  Since you're looking for privacy too,=

use opaque glass.  But you can build in a clear peephole into the design.=

If you make it no more than 1" square, it will be near invisible to those=

folk
who don't know where to look.

Best luck with the design.  Have fun with it.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:00:29 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bevel cutting
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:38:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:CWWSLW@aol.com
>In this design, I would have to use a 3x5" diamond shaped bevel that has=

been =

cut in 1/2, top to bottom. I've never cut a bevel before. Is this possibl=
e?

What's the best way to do it?<

Not only possible, but very easy.  Just score it and break it like any
other glass.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:19:33 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:48:02 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Donna...

While you practice and get really good at it...here is a tip.

Tin both sides with 50/50 then get yourself a gorgeous bead with 60/40. 
50/50 melts at a higher temp than 60/40...so your 
60/40 wont melt the 50/50 you tinned and filled any gaps with.

Also, you can keep soldering until you get a bead you are happy with,
just let your glass cool off, wipe off flux, reflux, and go again.  You
dont have to stop until you are ready.  You will get good at it in no
time.  Just keep trying.

I prefer canfield myself, but am having to use the cheap stuff at work,
it is almost like learning all over again.  It's so nice to come home to
my own little studio and use the good stuff! :o)

Tulsa Suzanne



"Becker, Donna" wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I'm fairly new to stained glass, but I LOVE it.  My question is very basic.
> Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
> messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.  I read yesterday that
> putting a wet towel underneath the glass when doing the backside works, but
> I haven't tried it yet.  Are there any other methods that you all use that
> work?
> 
>   Donna Becker
>  df125031@ncr.com
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:31:37 2000
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From: Bitsofglass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: marys response
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:56:03 EST
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Great going Mary Think Ill go with you.I m sure most of the people in this 
forum are great> Tom I really feel sorry for you
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:32:24 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:10:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

another thing you can try is to run a first "coat" of 50/50 solder over the
seams, then build the bead with 60/40. You'll have less chance of
melt-throughs with the 50/50 on the bottom.

Shari



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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:53:22 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Reminder - Flames
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:07:36 PST
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Hi everyone,

Just a reminder to all - please take any flames off line.
This is not a list to encourage this kind of behaviour.

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:55:48 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: bevel cutting
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:09:41 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/19/00 7:01:31 PM, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:

>Not only possible, but very easy.  Just score it and break it like any
>other glass.

On the "back" (flat) side, that is. Indeed they are easy to cut - you may 
just need to use a bit more pressure to break them depending on how thick 
they are. I had to cut a couple of 1/4" thick antique clear glue-chip bevels 
yesterday for a panel we're working on. They cut beautifully.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:01:43 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:09:23 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/19/00 6:32:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Witchdoc3@aol.com writes:

> Subj:  Re: Soldering the backside
>  Date:    1/19/00 6:32:07 PM Eastern Standard Time
>  From:    Witchdoc3@aol.com
>  To:  glass@bungi.com
>  
>  
>  In a message dated 1/19/00 11:31:24 AM, DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com 
>  writes:
>  
>  >Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
>  >messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.
>  
>  Sounds like one of 2 things. Either you're running your iron *way* too hot 
>  (bet nobody thought they'd ever hear "that li'l ol' solder-boiler, me" say 
a 
> 
>  thing like that, huh?) or you're touching up the same spots repeatedly 
>  without giving them time to cool in between passes.
>  
>  
>  Sparks
And -----that advice you heard aboput putting a damp cloth or paper towel 
under your work has much merit.  Keep it from getting so hot,--cut better, so 
there aren't wide gaps in your work, ==and solder cooler.  A good iron,  or 
the use of a heat regulator  will assist you in getting the results you need;
Anne
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:09:31 2000
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X-Path: springnet1.com!jazz-sni
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: metal faerie bodies
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:07:46 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I need your help "Bungi" fans...I'm trying to find a source that I can
purchase faerie metal bodies that I can attach glass wings.  Saw some
beautiful standing faeries in a novelty store today.  Would love to
learn how to make them. The ones I saw were going for $75.00 each,
approximately 6 to 8 inches tall.  Also, any input on making them would
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks     Linda U

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:15:38 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Subject: Unacceptable behaviour leading to : Unsubscribe
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 00:07:15 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Now see what you have done Tom?

You have driven off one of the most respected members of the list who
has given a great deal of advice to all members of the list.

Shame on you for your bad behaviour!

Don't bother to send me another of your bad tempered messages. I won't
be reading it.

I would much prefer it if you left the list, and took your aggressive
behaviour elsewhere.  Artist - Pah!!!

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
writes
>Please remove me from the list, Glenna.
>Thanks ~ Dani
>
>Message text written by "Tom"
>>I'll drink to that, Sharon!  (Can I say that at least without being
>pelted by the bible thumpers?)

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:28:03 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kaye Sodt <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 00:22:15 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001191740.LAA29921@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

I always seem to have a few places where the gap between pieces is too
wide.  For these, I place a strip of masking tape on the inside of a 3-D
piece.  Works well and is easy to remove.  For 2-D pieces, the fit just
has to be better.

Steve


In message <200001191740.LAA29921@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>, Kaye Sodt
<kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU> writes
>Donna--
>
>Taking pains to make sure your glass fits well (reducing gaps) 
>helps.  And keep your iron moving (or turn down the heat) if you're 
>getting melt-throughs....
>
>Kaye
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:39:29 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Martha Stewart bulletin board
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:16:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I have had lots of questions about my
participation on the Martha Stewart Living
bulletin boards.  First of all, the url is:

www.marthastewart.com

=46rom there, things are pretty straightforward.  =

I usually answer questions on Tuesday and
Wednesday (pj Friend and John Emery work
on other days).  When you get to the homepage,
click on "Home" or "Crafts".  Then click on "bulletin
boards".  That gets you into more categories again,
including "home" and "crafts" again.  Pick one.
Then to the left, you'll notice a category called
"discussions".  You may either click "post new"
to ask a question or "find".  In "find", I suggest folks
type in "stained glass" for a listing of all the stained
glass related conversations.  That's the easiest way
to pass up all the non-glass conversations.  Don't =

be afraid to answer some of the questions either...
believe me, after being on bungi a while, most of
you can be considered experts on stained glass!

Stop by and say "hi" sometime!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:40:22 2000
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From: "Valued Compaq Customer" <ruf-caimi@erols.com>
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Subject: Stained Glass Windows
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:26:47 -0500
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History of Church Stained Glass Windows" on Jan 18,  8:46, "Valued Compaq
Customer" writes:]
> To Whom It May Concern:
> 	I am a student of Historic Preservation and currently researching a
church
> for  my final project.  The church was built in 1876 and has stained
glass
> windows in it.  This is a mission church so the windows are very unusal
for
> it to have.  
> 	In my report I would like to included what I can about the History of
> Church Stained Glass Windows.  Could you recommend a book or article that
> would be helpful?  Any information would be appreciated.
> 
If you post this to the group I'm sure someone can give you some ideas.
(Glass@bungi.com)  Ask them to respond to you direcctly since your
not a member and wouldn't see this posting if it was sent to the list.

Please send any information directly to me, at my e-mail.
Thank You for any help
Linda
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 18:01:56 2000
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